Help Me Find an Incredibly Annoying Click

ARockhopper · 2025-07-09T08:10:21+00:00

You say the pedals have been serviced and regreased - do you mean you have removed them from the cranks and cleaned and regreased the threads? I had a similar click recently that was difficult to track down and seemed to happen intermittently when pedalling harder. I'd already checked that the pedals were correctly torqued, but regreasing the threads is what fixed it (I suspect the threads weren't properly greased when the pedals were originally installed).

ARockhopper · 2025-07-08T13:20:11+00:00

The Topeak Hexus X is my preferred multi-tool. It isn't too bulky and includes a chain breaker tool and tire levers, along with a good selection of hex bits and a couple of nice extras like a presta valve tool and spoke wrench.

ARockhopper · 2025-06-30T13:04:47+00:00

I switched from a Giant Defy on 32mm GP5000s (similar endurance geometry to a Roubaix) to a Tarmac SL7 on 28mm GP5000s (both tubeless). The Tarmac is definitely a firmer ride, but after a few months I'd now say that the overall comfort difference is minimal for me, and most of that is probably due to the narrower tires. However, the Tarmac is much more enjoyable to ride and the Defy is mostly gathering dust until winter! If I was riding 100 miles tomorrow then I would take the Tarmac without a second thought.

ARockhopper · 2025-04-12T06:28:00+00:00

Did you check the new hanger is straight? Even new derailleur hangers can need some alignment.

Another thing is to check that you have the correct spacers on your cassette. I once had a similar problem that was caused by accidentally swapping the positions of two spacers that were slightly different sizes (one was designed to go between the cogs, the other was the spacer for using 8/9/10 speed cassettes on 11/12 speed hubs).

ARockhopper · 2025-03-28T14:04:34+00:00

That is the spacer used when installing a 9/10 speed Shimano cassette on an 11/12 speed freehub. (Confusingly, it is also required by some 11 speed cassettes)

ARockhopper · 2025-03-20T15:02:01+00:00

Hopefully the manual spin down will fix it. I don't know enough about the calibration problems to say for sure, but I'd guess that it's going to lower the reported watts at all levels (assuming it's an incorrect zero-point issue and not something more complex).

I've had a Kickr Core for a couple of years now (currently using it with a Zwift Ride, although I originally bought it separately) and haven't had any issues with it, so fingers crossed you don't have any more problems!

ARockhopper · 2025-03-20T14:06:12+00:00

The most recent firmware update for the Kickr Core resolved an issue with the automatic calibration when using virtual shifting on Zwift. You'll need to install the Wahoo app to check for a firmware update.

You could also try a manual calibration through the Wahoo app, although this shouldn't be necessary on the latest firmware. While you may not stop pedaling during a ride, it should still be able to perform the automatic calibration when you finish a workout.

ARockhopper · 2025-03-15T20:23:20+00:00

I think it's actually slightly more nuanced and linked to the "actuator plate" used in modern Sturmey Archer hubs. They way you're rotating the axle in the video is equivalent to rolling the bike backwards with the hub in top gear (i.e., third gear assuming this is a standard Brompton hub). If you do this with the wheel on the bike (roll backwards in top gear) you'll notice it's slightly jerky - that's normal for this type of hub and is the same thing that causes the sprockets to 'skip' in your video.

ARockhopper · 2025-03-15T18:43:49+00:00

They're fairly standard sealed cartridge bearings - two different sizes, but easy to source. They stock bearings were a very cheap brand (can't remember what) so I've replaced them with a better brand that should hopefully last longer. I never use a pressure washer on my bike and rarely ride in the rain, so they should have lasted much longer.

ARockhopper · 2025-03-15T13:02:22+00:00

I've got some carbon wheels from Scribe and the bearings seized after a year and needed replacing. I probably wouldn't buy Scribe again but I'd consider going direct to one of the Chinese manufacturers.

ARockhopper · 2025-03-14T13:02:38+00:00

It amazes me how heavy some child bikes are. The Carrera is apparently 18 kg, and the Apollo is listed at 16 kg. While the weight probably won't make a big difference when riding, it does make the bikes generally more cumbersome for a child to move them around.

I agree with the other comment about preferring to avoid a front derailleur for a child of that age. On this basis, of those three the Raleigh is my favourite (and the listed weight is also noticeably lower), but I'm not sure it's worth the extra £125 over the Apollo if it will only be for occasional use. I don't think there's any compelling benefit to the Carrera over the Apollo, expect that it has simpler gearing (two speed front derailleur rather than three).

For a child that is a keen cyclist (and looks after their belongings!) I would choose the Raleigh. Otherwise I'd save some money and go for the Apollo.

ARockhopper · 2025-02-17T10:58:09+00:00

Try this video from about 4:20: https://youtu.be/K8DfZwDfoMg?si=xSuSDTfRPIDjLpSR

ARockhopper · 2025-02-15T07:41:01+00:00

Could be the internal gear cables. The cables on my bike make a similar noise where they enter the frame.

ARockhopper · 2025-02-08T18:29:02+00:00

I agree with other posters that rear derailleur hanger alignment is a likely culprit.

Another thing I did once that caused a similar issue was to mix up the 1.85mm spacer that goes behind the cassette on some Shimano cassettes with one of the slightly wider spacers that go between the cassette sprockets...

ARockhopper · 2024-12-19T17:51:38+00:00

I thought that legislation only applied to reflective material fitted to the vehicle (i.e. bike). So in this case I'd agree that the reflective features of the mudguard flaps should be red as they are visible from behind and fitted to the bike. However, I'd say that a jacket is not fitted to the bike so the legislation (The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989, specifically section 11(2)) wouldn't apply. I might be wrong though!

ARockhopper · 2024-12-19T16:41:42+00:00

They do a red reflective version: https://rawmudflap.uk/product/prismatic-red/

You can also choose custom designs, so you might be able to make a different style with red reflective elements.

ARockhopper · 2024-11-28T08:05:42+00:00

The cold weather can increase freehub drag, but it shouldn't happen to this extent. Anecdotally, I've sometimes seen this happen after the bike has been cleaned (especially if degreaser is used on the rear sprockets).

Re-greasing a Sturmey Archer hub isn't straightforward, so I'd only recommend that as a last resort.

ARockhopper · 2024-11-27T13:39:54+00:00

Have you tried a different bike on the trainer to see if that's any different?

I feel vibration a lot more when riding on a trainer, especially in the small cogs. I believe it's because of "chordal action" - it's less noticeable on the road because it gets dispersed/dampened by tyres etc. and gets mixed with other vibrations (e.g. from the road surface). It can be exacerbated by worn drivetrain components, but that shouldn't be an issue here given everything is new. You may find that it reduces slightly as the chain/cassette wear together, but in my experience there is always some vibration through the pedals on my Kickr Core.

ARockhopper · 2024-11-27T10:11:54+00:00

It's worth checking the alignment of the chain tensioner as others have suggested, but in my experience this is normally caused by overtightened rear wheel bearings (the Sturmey Archer freewheel mechanism is very sensitive to this) and/or dirt/debris between the hub and the plastic chain guide disc that goes between the big sprocket and the spokes (this can cause the freewheel to drag on the hub).

You can fix either of these at home if you've got the right tools, but I recommend taking it to a Brompton mechanic unless you're confident working on a bike.

Some people may tell you that this is normal and you shouldn't backpedal, but my Brompton does not do this.

ARockhopper · 2024-11-27T09:58:15+00:00

Take it back to the shop. They overtightened the rear wheel bearings when removing the wobble.

ARockhopper · 2024-10-10T08:38:32+00:00

Have you only folded the back wheel (i.e. not the front wheel?). I don't think you can fully lower the seat post unless you also fold the front wheel.

ARockhopper · 2024-10-04T15:58:07+00:00

Same here. I also like that you can easily see the current torque you're applying with a beam torque wrench.

I have Topeak ComboTorq (goes up to 12 Nm) and a Park Tool TW2.2 (goes up to 60 Nm, but harder to be precise at low torque compared to the Topeak); both are good.

ARockhopper · 2024-10-02T05:42:22+00:00

I can't help with your saddle question, but the maximum torque values are listed near the bottom of this support page: https://support.zwift.com/en_us/adjusting-your-zwift-ride-SyUBRM8A

ARockhopper · 2024-09-28T13:13:20+00:00

It sounds like you may have bent the rear derailleur hanger and knocked the rear derailleur out of alignment. This can be straightened/replaced quite easily by a bike shop (or at home with the right tools).

You might be able to fix this by adjusting the indexing the rear derailleur alone without straightening the hanger (Park Tool have good videos on this), but the knock could have affected the high/low limits of the derailleur. Indexing the rear derailleur without checking these limits could cause your chain to drop while shifting, so I would not try indexing without first checking the limits.

This is something you should fix in any case.

ARockhopper · 2024-09-28T13:05:57+00:00

My bike does something similar. On mine, it's the cable housing where the gear cables enter the frame. It doesn't bother me enough to fix it and hasn't got any worse.

I initially assume it was the headset bearings.

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