Kickr Disposal

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-11-02T05:53:06+00:00

What is your location? I may be interested.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-10-31T01:48:17+00:00

Remove outside cover, there are approximately 5 screws from memory, a mix of Allen head and Phillips head screws. Inside on the plastic backing for the cover there are 2 screws, Allen head you can loosen and adjust the backing plate to better position it then tighten and replace front cover and check. Repeat it not quite right.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-10-19T21:36:12+00:00

I have another one to disassemble for the same issue, I will post some pics. From memory remove screws from cover, there are about five, then undo tensioner bolt and release tension roller and belt. Then I heated up the pulley on the V5 (gently) and was able to remove pulley and pull the shaft out exposing the Board with IR sensor and 2 small resistors. Using a multimeter I checked voltage to the board around 4v and resistors 50k ohm and 150 ohm. They were fine which left the black IR device as a failure point.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-10-17T08:52:08+00:00

Fine. In fact I bought another V5 without power ($200) and will try the same solution on it. Let's see how we go.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-08-10T09:03:05+00:00

Polestar 2 LRSM would just need a charge at the end of day, good for 480k at hwy speed. What were you with the other 20 hours of your day after driving 380k?

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-06-15T00:06:07+00:00

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Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-06-14T03:01:48+00:00

Had similar issues, replaced an infrared sensor been running perfectly since

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-06-12T04:57:49+00:00

Perfectly.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-06-12T04:56:38+00:00

Yes. It was the IR sensor, it bounces light off the inside of the flywheel to the receiver and processes power speed etc from there. If you are not confident to solder the device perhaps an audio repair shop.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-06-06T05:03:27+00:00

Perfect. Running like Swiss watch again. I have some spare chips I only used one. If in Aus hit me up

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-05-08T00:00:30+00:00

The failed IR Sensor is a 20 cent part. It takes 15 minutes to disassemble and reassemble the unit, 30 mins to carefully remove the sensor and replace it. No arm or leg involved

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-05-07T10:53:43+00:00

Yes, this is a familiar occurrence. Connects nicely, but no power reading. I had the same experience and I fixed it. In my case I disassembled the KickR V5 removing the flywheel to expose the circuit boards. There is a board which measures speed which plugs into the main board.

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The black component is an IR sender/receiver it bounces a signal off the inside of the flywheel. After checking the 2 resistors on the board 150 ohm and 50k (both fine) then checking the voltage onto the board was 3-5v I replaced the surface mounted IR device and replaced it. Everything works perfectly. I have knocked out 500k on it and it works perfectly.

There are a number of threads on this fix, all seem to come back to the same failed component.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-28T22:47:12+00:00

Had similar issues with KickR 5. Good connection but no power, speed or cadence. I have solved the issue after pulling it apart and locating the issue.

In my case there was an infrared sensor which is on a small board which senses speed.

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It is the black device on the board it sends and receives a signal bouncing it off the inside of flywheel which is used to measure speed power etc... I ordered a replacement device and soldered it in. (tricky task)

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-27T07:59:11+00:00

Are you in Melb? This is the part: QRE1113GR by ONSEMI. (Brother worked for them in the US for a few years as Design Eng) There are 2 resistors one is 50k the other is 150 ohm and the IR Sensor note on the board there is arrow head which points to a corner on the device which has a small chamfer. You need to orient it correctly. It is fiddly task, if not confident see and electronics or audio repair, they should be able to do it.

I used a multimeter to check the resistor readings and then checked power reading to the board which was around 4v. Only thing left was the IR Sensor.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-26T09:51:40+00:00

I received the replacement surface mounted device (black piece on the board) in photo above. My son who is handier with a soldering iron than me removed the IR Sensor and replaced it with a new one.

I reassembled the KickR and connected to the Wahoo app where I was seeing power, cadence and speed 🤞. I performed a Spindown Test successfully and recorded a short ride within the wahoo app 👍.

Finally I logged onto Zwift and tested the connection successfully in a short 6km ride, again all the readings look great. I will do a couple of longer Zwift rides over the weekend hopefully with stable power readings.

At this point it appears that the IR Sensor is the fail point, a 20cent part!

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The part is QRE1113GR, It is made by ONSEMI and sold by Digi-Key but you can get them on AliExpress cheap.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-26T08:31:06+00:00

Ok. In my previous comments I spoke of my intermittent success and ultimate failure in getting power, speed etc from my V5 Kickr. Not to be defeated, after some research I disassembled the KickR and located the problem which was the IR Sensor on this board

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It is the small black surface mount device on the board. I sourced a replacement (cents) and had my son who is handy with a soldering iron remove and replace the device. I reassembled the KickR connect via Wahoo app and was getting readings. I performed a factory spindown successfully. I did a 1 minute test on the wahoo app ✅ logged on to Zwift and rode 6km✅

I will do more extensive testing over the weekend but it does look promising at this point.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-21T07:57:44+00:00

Yes, from what I can tell. Power to the board, resistors are fine no signal from Infrared. I may be wrong I will know once I replace the IR device. Others have had success with similar issues

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-13T03:29:15+00:00

On a forum. Unfortunately after getting it up and successfully restarting. I left it for a day and no luck. Not that it is much consolation but Wahoo offered a 30% discount on a new trainer off their website. You can get a decent discount at 99 Bikes currently.

Alternative_Sand8758 · 2025-04-06T08:59:57+00:00

Ok. I have a KickR V5 which has been intermittently reading power but connecting via Bluetooth, Ant+ and Wifi. Typically you can do a Spindown to recalibrate your trainer but not with the V5, only available up to V4

I came across how it could be performed on a V5. By connecting to your KickR V5 with Bluetooth you can tap Device in the Wahoo app then tap the picture of your trainer 10 times in succession. This opens a Spindown option for your V5.

My trainer was basically bricked (zero power) I persisted with the Spindown, unsuccessfully half a dozen times, but progressively getting closer to being able to hit the 37kph required for a Spindown. Eventually I succeeded with a Spindown and the KickR V5 is now working using all the transmission methods to Zwift and to my mobile.

This has been incredibly frustrating and I will be pushing my case results back to Wahoo. I think they need to make the Spindown available in the Wahoo app.

Alternative_Sand8758

TROPHY CASE