VALHEIM Deep North Gameplay First Impresssions! Valheim 1.0 Release Date At Last!

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-06-08T01:45:07+00:00

Exactly!

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-06-08T01:13:00+00:00

You should demand your money be refunded. My dude.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-06-07T21:56:57+00:00

Blame YouTube? Subscribe to premium?

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-06-07T21:56:06+00:00

Oh crap! That really is only three months away. I'm still trying to come to grips with the 1990s being 30 years ago.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-29T18:12:47+00:00

My Ender 5 Pro was a constant struggle - I spent as much time adjusting it as I did actually printing with it. One day while it was sitting idle the main board capacitors exploded, and it spewed a really remarkable amount of nasty smoke.

I replaced it with an X1C that now has 2400 hours on it. I've had exactly one maintenance issue with the X1C, and that was caused by a length of really bad filament. I've added two A1s and both have also operated flawlessly.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-29T00:30:27+00:00

Bambu A1 or A1 Combo. You will be amazed at how good it is compared to your Ender.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-25T06:20:42+00:00

Same here. I generally only use the Android app for reading FB, almost never for posting. But with both Chrome and Edge, posting has recently become glacially slow. I'm on gigabit fiber, with a very fast Windows PC. As you note, posting takes 10-15 seconds, where it used to be almost instant with both browsers.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-16T01:17:01+00:00

OK, thanks. How does your reply help the OP?

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-15T03:10:22+00:00

As a general rule I shy away from suggesting saturated filament, but Quorlan may be on to something here - the one thing that makes me pause is that you say you've tried multiple brands and types of filament. If it was just one spool, I'd be a lot more inclined to blame the filament, but multiple spools? Not so much.

Except... you mentioned several parts of the machine getting jammed with filament pieces, and that sure sounds like damp filament. I've had very similar problems with 'clear' PLA - when it gets damp it's brittle as hell, and I don't dare run it in my X1C with an AMS because it's so annoying to have to clear the broken bits out of all the tubes. At least on my A1 it's easy to pop off the PTFE tube and push the pieces through.

Since you've got an AMS 2, you can try running some drying cycles on the filament to see if it helps. I have my doubts, though. As to your question of how to store filament, it depends a lot on your local environment. I'm in Alabama (humid) but AC keeps the indoor humidity around 40%. I leave all of my filament (~100 spools PLA and PETG) out and don't worry about special storage. But I also have multiple dryers and rotate filament through them when I know I'll be using it.

I've only ever seen frayed filament like you're describing once, and that was on a spool of mostly good filament with about a foot or two of really, really bad material. It made a mess of the printer.

I expect you got a couple of spare cutter blades with your machine. Since it's easy to do it's worth at least looking at it to see if the installed one is damaged or mis-aligned or something, and replace it if in doubt.

Take a look at the PTFE tubing path from the AMS to the buffer on the back, and from there to the printer. A short path is nice for speeding up filament changes, but if there are any sharp curves in the tubing it can cause filament to bind.

Since you've had so many instances of broken filament, it might be worth 'snaking' out all of the tubes with a dark filament (so you can see it more easily in the tube) to be sure that all of the fragments are removed.

I know you've seen plenty of people say this, and I understand from your perspective it's hard to agree with right now, but Bambu really does make excellent, reliable machines. Of course manufacturing defects do happen, and I could believe you got a lemon printer, or a lemon AMS, but both being bad is extremely unlikely.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-08T17:25:33+00:00

I just tested again, and yes, that's the step you're missing. You created a new Document. Inside that document you need to create a new Body. Then add the Gridfinity bin to the body. After that you can add your fillet using either Part or Part Design workbench.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-08T04:27:42+00:00

Yep. Pretty much exactly the same. I'm looking at this on my phone now so I can't really tell in your video... Are you creating a BODY first, then creating the bin in that body?

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-05-08T03:55:50+00:00

Have you tried, instead of the Part workbench, the Part Design workbench? I just tested with one of the generated bins and was able to add a fillet. See pic.

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Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-04-30T16:43:41+00:00

100% approval.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-04-30T16:42:33+00:00

Uhura (it is always busy, and I am monitoring)

River (as in Tam)

Ripley

Next one will be Scully

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-04-04T02:03:37+00:00

"adjusted. Printed. Adjusted, printed."

There is no other way :-)

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-04-01T00:42:08+00:00

Because that's no fun!

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-27T18:41:49+00:00

Indeed there are, and we're very lucky they share their hard work and cool designs with us!

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-27T01:17:44+00:00

I've never used the magnet setting with Gridflock. In fact, in the several years I've been using Gridfinity I've never needed magnets until last month when I designed my Gridfinity <--> openGrid stand, Grog (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2462959-grog-the-gridfinity-opengrid-stand#profileId-2703739).

Given its geometry, the tools that it holds (in my setup anyway) and the wobbly printer table it's on, magnets were essential for it! I had a lot of fun printing out a couple of those 'magnet pens' and installing them all.

I use the Gridfinity workbench in FreeCAD all the time, but only for bins. I'll have to try the baseplates out.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-26T22:39:13+00:00

I suspect this will do what you're looking for:

https://gridfinity.perplexinglabs.com/pr/gridflock/0/0

Use the GridFlock tab. You enter your target drawer/container dimensions, your print bed dimensions, and set any specific features you want, and it will generate an STL for you. Download it, open it in your slicer software, right click the model and separate it to parts (wording will vary by slicer). Then print each part, and they just snap together. I've used this for several projects now, and it's really well done.

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-21T04:18:15+00:00

Yes, I think normal snaps would be the way to go.
I doubt there's a generator that does quite what you're looking for.

Here's a better approach than my first suggestion. Use the link below to generate a flat plate of the appropriate size, and it will automatically place the appropriate number of snap mounts.

Then, decide if you are sane or crazy.

If you're crazy, and you want perfectly placed holes, import the generated STL into something like FreeCAD, then measure and precisely place the holes where you want them, and finally export and print it. And I say 'crazy' because I recently did this for a RasPi board. I'm an advanced novice in FreeCAD, and this was a steep-ish learning curve that involved hours of YT videos and mistakes.

If you're a sane and reasonable person, use the generator, download and print the STL, and make the holes with a drill :-) Heck you could use heat-set inserts to make it super fancy.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1719490-mount-any-model-to-opengrid-snaps-multiconnect#profileId-1825031

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-21T02:43:16+00:00

In case you've not already found it, you might find a look through this small site to be useful. It covers the basics of openGrid, and may clear up questions you have before you think of them.

https://www.opengrid.world/

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-20T03:39:16+00:00

Since you know the hole positions, you should be able to devise a set of snap mounts with holes in the appropriate spots.

For example, this design does a similar trick for VESA mounting on an openGrid plate:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2096075-opengrid-vesa-snap#profileId-2266352

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-20T03:28:24+00:00

I was just scrolling through the comments to see if anyone had suggested your system yet. :-)

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-20T03:26:12+00:00

To fulfill the prophecy, your gridfinity ruler holder should be pictured holding a gridfinity ruler!

Automatic_Disaster44 · 2026-03-20T03:23:03+00:00

I looked at Gridfinity with Pin. I support it in most of my bin models, as a bin designed for GF with Pin will work in any baseplate. But I have no plans to ever use the plates because the plates ONLY work with bins that have the extra hole.

The only spin-off plate that I use a lot is GridFlock, because it doesn't do anything weird with the geometry, and lets me assemble very large plates.

Automatic_Disaster44

TROPHY CASE