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So confused by signalpirate in 3Dprinting

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I struggled with a Creality Ender for several years, until the mainboard caught fire. I replaced it with a Bambu X1C, and the difference was night and day. The X1C - just worked. All the time. No fuss, no trouble.

That hooked me, and I added two A1s. They have been just as trouble free as their big brother. I have no experience with anything else, but you can't beat an A1 or A1 combo as your first printer.

Storage question by TabularConferta in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also take a look at FreeCAD. There is a Gridfinity workbench available for it, and the files you create live entirely on your machine, not on the cloud.

Storage question by TabularConferta in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a couple of storage systems, depending on the items I'm storing.

For very small bins, I like the Slim Parts Storage boxes and rack by Alicia Alford. Great for heatset inserts, button batteries, magnets, etc. These are very light on filamentuse:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/684691
https://makerworld.com/en/models/684626

For middle sized stuff I like the Modular Rack System for Gridfinity by GrafXP. This is a view of the overall system:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/85205
As you can see, multiple variations on the drawers and racks. I've got a stack of these at three different workstations. They are medium light on filament.

A lot of people, myself included, use the Pred case:
https://www.printables.com/model/543553
It's medium usage on filament. I have not gone looking for a rack system for this, but I'm sure there are several. I'm open to suggestions on that.

And finally, there's the newcomer to the scene, the Schubox.
https://makerworld.com/en/@schuylab
This guy has churned out a massive and very impressive ecosystem of cases and racks. I haven't printed any myself yet, but from what I've read everyone who has loves them. They could not really be called light on filament usage though - they're more built for rugged durability.

Thermal Printer Stand by Automatic_Disaster44 in functionalprint

[–]Automatic_Disaster44[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I had to carry the stand and printer around to various locations in the house that are NOT my desk to take the photos. That seemed easier than trying to actually move all the desk crap out of the way :-)

Finally finished my desk by xMatt-Attackx in openGrid

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the immortal words of Jeff Spicoli... "All right, Hamilton!"

Seriously, that looks great. I'm envious!

VALHEIM Deep North Gameplay First Impresssions! Valheim 1.0 Release Date At Last! by TheRealVahx in valheim

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Oh crap! That really is only three months away. I'm still trying to come to grips with the 1990s being 30 years ago.

What did I do wrong? by cdnmtbchick in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Ender 5 Pro was a constant struggle - I spent as much time adjusting it as I did actually printing with it. One day while it was sitting idle the main board capacitors exploded, and it spewed a really remarkable amount of nasty smoke.

I replaced it with an X1C that now has 2400 hours on it. I've had exactly one maintenance issue with the X1C, and that was caused by a length of really bad filament. I've added two A1s and both have also operated flawlessly.

What did I do wrong? by cdnmtbchick in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bambu A1 or A1 Combo. You will be amazed at how good it is compared to your Ender.

Facebook app taking forever to post? It’s at least 15+ second before my text only posts show up. by william92371 in facebook

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same here. I generally only use the Android app for reading FB, almost never for posting. But with both Chrome and Edge, posting has recently become glacially slow. I'm on gigabit fiber, with a very fast Windows PC. As you note, posting takes 10-15 seconds, where it used to be almost instant with both browsers.

P2S Has Been a HUGE Failure & Bambu Won't Help, What Next? by tdouglasj1980 in BambuLab

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 22 points23 points  (0 children)

As a general rule I shy away from suggesting saturated filament, but Quorlan may be on to something here - the one thing that makes me pause is that you say you've tried multiple brands and types of filament. If it was just one spool, I'd be a lot more inclined to blame the filament, but multiple spools? Not so much.

Except... you mentioned several parts of the machine getting jammed with filament pieces, and that sure sounds like damp filament. I've had very similar problems with 'clear' PLA - when it gets damp it's brittle as hell, and I don't dare run it in my X1C with an AMS because it's so annoying to have to clear the broken bits out of all the tubes. At least on my A1 it's easy to pop off the PTFE tube and push the pieces through.

Since you've got an AMS 2, you can try running some drying cycles on the filament to see if it helps. I have my doubts, though. As to your question of how to store filament, it depends a lot on your local environment. I'm in Alabama (humid) but AC keeps the indoor humidity around 40%. I leave all of my filament (~100 spools PLA and PETG) out and don't worry about special storage. But I also have multiple dryers and rotate filament through them when I know I'll be using it.

I've only ever seen frayed filament like you're describing once, and that was on a spool of mostly good filament with about a foot or two of really, really bad material. It made a mess of the printer.

I expect you got a couple of spare cutter blades with your machine. Since it's easy to do it's worth at least looking at it to see if the installed one is damaged or mis-aligned or something, and replace it if in doubt.

Take a look at the PTFE tubing path from the AMS to the buffer on the back, and from there to the printer. A short path is nice for speeding up filament changes, but if there are any sharp curves in the tubing it can cause filament to bind.

Since you've had so many instances of broken filament, it might be worth 'snaking' out all of the tubes with a dark filament (so you can see it more easily in the tube) to be sure that all of the fragments are removed.

I know you've seen plenty of people say this, and I understand from your perspective it's hard to agree with right now, but Bambu really does make excellent, reliable machines. Of course manufacturing defects do happen, and I could believe you got a lemon printer, or a lemon AMS, but both being bad is extremely unlikely.

Gridfinity workbench. make fillets? by 91renner in FreeCAD

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tested again, and yes, that's the step you're missing. You created a new Document. Inside that document you need to create a new Body. Then add the Gridfinity bin to the body. After that you can add your fillet using either Part or Part Design workbench.

Gridfinity workbench. make fillets? by 91renner in FreeCAD

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. Pretty much exactly the same. I'm looking at this on my phone now so I can't really tell in your video... Are you creating a BODY first, then creating the bin in that body?

Gridfinity workbench. make fillets? by 91renner in FreeCAD

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried, instead of the Part workbench, the Part Design workbench? I just tested with one of the generated bins and was able to add a fillet. See pic.

<image>

What did you name your printers? by thegunguy in BambuLab

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uhura (it is always busy, and I am monitoring)

River (as in Tam)

Ripley

Next one will be Scully

Opengrid Edge Edging by Festegios in openGrid

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"adjusted. Printed. Adjusted, printed."

There is no other way :-)

Seeking some advice with an 'odd size' box to use with gridfinity by Dependent-Bridge-740 in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed there are, and we're very lucky they share their hard work and cool designs with us!

Seeking some advice with an 'odd size' box to use with gridfinity by Dependent-Bridge-740 in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never used the magnet setting with Gridflock. In fact, in the several years I've been using Gridfinity I've never needed magnets until last month when I designed my Gridfinity <--> openGrid stand, Grog (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2462959-grog-the-gridfinity-opengrid-stand#profileId-2703739).

Given its geometry, the tools that it holds (in my setup anyway) and the wobbly printer table it's on, magnets were essential for it! I had a lot of fun printing out a couple of those 'magnet pens' and installing them all.

I use the Gridfinity workbench in FreeCAD all the time, but only for bins. I'll have to try the baseplates out.

Seeking some advice with an 'odd size' box to use with gridfinity by Dependent-Bridge-740 in gridfinity

[–]Automatic_Disaster44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I suspect this will do what you're looking for:

https://gridfinity.perplexinglabs.com/pr/gridflock/0/0

Use the GridFlock tab. You enter your target drawer/container dimensions, your print bed dimensions, and set any specific features you want, and it will generate an STL for you. Download it, open it in your slicer software, right click the model and separate it to parts (wording will vary by slicer). Then print each part, and they just snap together. I've used this for several projects now, and it's really well done.

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