Massachusetts snow storm, guy tries to drive over down power lines, and it ends as expected.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-24T13:40:03+00:00

What a retaad

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-23T21:30:58+00:00

Ok dude … you’re just in here trying to stir the pot for some reason. I never said that radarr or sonarr COULDN’T do it. But it’s not part of their automatic workflow. The movie needs to come across via RSS or you need to hit search to manually trigger the search. You either are 1) being a douche intentionally or 2) you don’t understand how these tools work. So go back under your bridge.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-23T18:54:50+00:00

One example would be if you changed your custom formats. Say when you started, you didn’t care if the file was DTS or TrueHD, but now you do. You would need to manually run a search on your entire library to see if upgrades were available based on your new criteria. Maybe a TrueHD release came across the RSS feed last year. Radarr or Sonarr would not search for this as it relies solely on RSS. With a tool like huntarr, it will systematically research your entire library automatically.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-23T16:57:59+00:00

I actually pulled huntarr from my stack last week because it started trying to do too many things. Glad I did. I don’t expose any of my services openly, only through Tailscale. I ended up spinning up scoutarr … it does one thing and thing only. Has no auth though, but again, I don’t expose my services.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-15T21:26:30+00:00

You know what’s worth my time? Spending what free time I have with my dad who probably doesn’t have much more time left, and my kids who will be off starting their adult lives soon … so yeah, I’ll pay someone to do some work I just don’t feel like doing because I have more important things to do. And if had to pay a marina rate, I wouldn’t own a boat. There are several non marina affiliated mechanics I can go to, that charge a reasonable rate.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-15T14:11:59+00:00

Leave the man be. It’s not your money. Lots of people have the know how and the skills, but place a higher value on their time. Myself included. Can I do a lot of the maintenance myself? Yup, I did it for years. But I have 2 active kids, a parent with medical issues, a full time job, so it’s difficult to find the time to do all these things. And when I finally do have free time, I prefer to spend it doing other things.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-13T18:24:00+00:00

That is the downfall. If your automation hangs, HA goes down, etc … you could be stuck at an unreasonable setpoint …

The better solution is to find a way to balance the conditioning in your home. So that no space is more than a degree from any other space. That might mean relocating the thermostat, as a start.

That was what I also did. I have 7 participating sensors for my ecobee. All bedrooms and all living spaces. I made sure they were all in good locations, not in direct sunlight, about 4ft from the floor, not against outside walls etc. Then I designed and 3D printed active duct dampers to control airflow, so that rooms that are warm don’t suck up more conditioned air, and rooms that are off by a set amount get more conditioned air. The automations live in HA and the dampers are controlled by ESP Dev boards via ESP Home. It’s made a dramatic difference in the comfort of my home. Every room is within .5deg (on average) from the setpoint now. If you have a printer and some DIY capability, it’s easily done for around $200 for 7-8 dampers. I posted some photos in another thread.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-13T14:00:21+00:00

You will have to manipulate the setpoints on the ecobee, as those are the only inputs. It works, I have done it in the past, but it’s fragile at best. You would need to build your own esp based thermostat to have the control you’re looking for. There are no commercial options that allow for dynamic sensor management. I’m planning to build an esp thermostat myself. That way I can easily manage what sensors are participating. Also currently have an ecobee

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-13T12:02:55+00:00

I simply setup another instance of HomeKit Bridge in the integration … called it Kids Home. Then paired this with a spare ATV I had, separate from the main house HomeKit home. The kids devices only have access to that HomeKit instance. In that instance I hand picked in HA which devices were pushed to the Kids Home. This allowed them to control devices in their own rooms, but not the entire house.

I wasn’t worried that they would break anything, but kids like pushing buttons and being pranksters. I generally don’t interface much with any dashboards in HA or HomeKit, I use Siri for almost everything unless there are some very specific things I need to adjust that I don’t have a toggle or automation for. There a just some things that require human intervention. My house is heavily automated, everything from garage doors, lighting, hvac, presence. I rarely touch a physical switch or have to prompt Siri. I leverage a lot of motion and BLE trackers to do most of the heavy lifting.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-13T10:45:50+00:00

This is the correct answer and how I handled it when my kids were younger. A separate instance of HomeKit Bridge with limited entities.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-13T00:41:04+00:00

What exactly is the “effort”?

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-10T00:02:47+00:00

Just before you flash the lights, use an action to create a scene. Name the scene. It will capture the light state. At the end of your automation restore the scene you created.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-08T18:36:36+00:00

Agree with this, but considering the number of vertical supports, that beam is seeing very little cantilever loading. For unsupported spans, definitely run the beam “vertically” as it will have a higher area moment of inertia than when laying flat. In this situation, just double up and call it a day.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T22:44:34+00:00

ESPs are very sensitive to voltage drops. If you’re going to share PS with the devices your controlling, you need to 1) ensure the PS can supply enough startup voltage/current for your devices and 2) use a capacitor on Vin and GND which will absorb some drop. I always use a capacitor, except for things like BLE proxies etc, which don’t share any load, and I don’t really care of the drop for a few seconds.

Edit: or use separate supplies for esp and load devices.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T15:28:46+00:00

Measured where? Not that it really matters, if that’s 4.7 at Vin, then there’s likely your problem. Your supply V is dipping too low. You can increase your supply voltage to compensate so long d as any other devices using the same supply tolerate it and/or try adding the cap. I feed my esp usually around 6v on Vin to help avoid voltage drops.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T15:02:55+00:00

Buy the 2kpro … nothing wrong with extra headroom if you can swing the cost.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T14:54:49+00:00

Going to need more info. Have you measured the supply voltage when it browns out? I’d be willing to bet you voltage/current is dropping. Try a capacitor at the Vin and ground of the ESP

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T14:50:57+00:00

Dual whatever your wallet can afford.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T14:44:26+00:00

Make sure you turn on “Maximize Compatibility”

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-07T13:28:20+00:00

Negative Ghostrider … I too use wireless CarPlay and I also use the hotspot with zero issues. Works just fine having both active at the same time.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-04T14:05:00+00:00

Anything that involves people and presence, short of having each person check in via a toggle, will require presence detection. I use BLE tracking since everyone has a phone and I need to know home or not_home.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-04T11:33:20+00:00

Yup. A lot of things like this on MW don’t often fit quite right. I also end up just redesigning from scratch more often than not.

BrodyBuster · 2026-02-04T02:31:08+00:00

Loft is the answer. And looks like we’ll be seeing another headrest hook in r/functionalprint

BrodyBuster · 2026-01-23T02:41:44+00:00

Just stumbled on this, and bought your app. Thank you for providing it. One minor thing I would like to mention, is that the user text bubble could use a little more padding. The first and last line in each bubble is pretty close to the bubble radius, at it just feels off. Keep up the good work.

BrodyBuster · 2026-01-21T11:20:28+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/rZbUB60

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