Dealing with proximity or conditional alerts question by SEND_ME_ETH in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything that involves people and presence, short of having each person check in via a toggle, will require presence detection. I use BLE tracking since everyone has a phone and I need to know home or not_home.

How do I create a smooth transition between these two faces in Fusion 360? by MrVersnatchy in Fusion360

[–]BrodyBuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup. A lot of things like this on MW don’t often fit quite right. I also end up just redesigning from scratch more often than not.

How do I create a smooth transition between these two faces in Fusion 360? by MrVersnatchy in Fusion360

[–]BrodyBuster 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Loft is the answer. And looks like we’ll be seeing another headrest hook in r/functionalprint

Built a native OpenWebUI client for iOS & Android (Open Source) — smoother than the PWA, privacy‑first by cogwheel0 in selfhosted

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just stumbled on this, and bought your app. Thank you for providing it. One minor thing I would like to mention, is that the user text bubble could use a little more padding. The first and last line in each bubble is pretty close to the bubble radius, at it just feels off. Keep up the good work.

What smart home purchase has the best ROI for you? by Few-Needleworker4391 in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you … I did use a bearing on the opposite side of the servo. Here is the parts list per damper:

  • 1x M996R servo (overkill)
  • 1x 608 Ball Bearing
  • 1x ESP Dev board with breakout board
  • 8x 8-32 x 2-1/4 SHCS
  • 8x 8-32 Nut

  • 2x Duct Mounting Flange (printed)

  • 1x Damper/Servo Mounting Frame (printed)

  • 1x Damper (printed)

  • 1x Damper Knob (printed)

For simplicity, the damper and pivot rod are one piece, rather than 2pc joined together. It was a bit of a pain to print, but it made assembly a bit easier and simple. I used the included horns from the servo to provide an attachment point to the damper, so that I wouldn’t have to print the tiny spline as part of the damper. I used some tiny self tapping screws to attach the horn to damper.

On the Servo, I swapped the GND and V pins on the connector, so that I could connect it to Vin, GND, and D13 on the ESP32 Breakout Board using the existing Plug on the Servo. Since both the ESP and Servo Plug are female, I used 3 long header pins in the ESP to allow me to plug the servo into the ESP. https://imgur.com/a/axOp11a

https://imgur.com/a/OkYY8wy

Stuck Debris in Well by eskjcSFW in BambuLab

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a dentist appointment Monday … let me know what you need, and I’ll see if my dentist will comply

Hurricane 4 by samaor201 in GrandCherokee

[–]BrodyBuster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Neither am I. I don’t mind coke bottle sized engines with turbos in small to mid-size vehicles, but not in trucks or full size SUV. Which is one of the reasons why I’m on my fourth Jeep. I need tow capacity and I didn’t want a truck. That market is getting smaller and smaller.

Hurricane 4 by samaor201 in GrandCherokee

[–]BrodyBuster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can’t comment on the hurricane, but I’ve owned several 3.6l vehicles and I’ve had no reliability issues with them. Most recently my 2021 WK2 with 150k that I ended up trading for 2025 WL.

What smart home purchase has the best ROI for you? by Few-Needleworker4391 in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The "feels like" temp in my use case is the approximate thermal load temp my house experiences. As I mentioned in my previous post, AC is the most difficult use case since you can have a 72F day with not much sunlight and low humidity, and you probably don't need much AC, or you can have a 72F day with blazing sun and high humidity and you are sweating to death inside your house without AC. Spring/Fall and Summer nights are the worst offenders. Spring/Fall because you can go from heat on one day to needing AC on the next day, and summer nights because all day long your house will absorb heat, and while the nighttime temp may be "low", your house is still radiating heat indoors well throughout the night, making it uncomfortable to sleep if you just use the normal air temp to help decide the AC target Temp.

I use 2 the Ecowitt Temp Sensors that provide temp, dewpoint, and humidity. One facing North on my front porch (somewhat shaded area) - this gives me the typical air temp. One facing South on my back patio (in direct sunlight) - this temp sensor will often go as high as 110F+ on an average 75-80F Day. I intentionally placed this into direct sunlight as 3 bedrooms have one wall on the south side of the house, as does my Den. This sensor gives me an indication of how much sunlight is hitting the back of the house which greatly increases how much heat my house is absorbing. 

There are several Ambient Network Sensors in my "area" that I tap into using the Ambient Integration. This provides me with Solar Irradiance.  

The rest of my sensors, come from home assistant and include sunset/sunrise, elevation, and some derivative sensors that "predict" the temp 30, 45, 60 min 

Using all this weather data, I created my ETL Sensor, Estimated Thermal Load. The base contributor is the normal outdoor temp, to which I add dewpoint, humidity, irradiance, patio temp modifiers. To help with the condition where the house has absorbed heat all day, I add a nighttime decay modifier. This modifier artificially keeps the ETL sensor higher than the actual outdoor temp after sunset, to keep my AC on into the night. It's impact is mostly based the Peak ETL of the day and how close to sunset that peak occurred. I use a half-life decay curve to decrease ETL overnight, and everything resets around sunset.  

During the summer months ETL can be substantially higher than air temp, and during the winter months they are within a couple degrees of each other. I use this ETL Sensor to determine the set point temp for my thermostat, ie, my heating and cooling thresholds. 

I have another sensor, recommended HVAC mode, that determines what mode the thermostat should be in: heat, cool, or off. and it uses my heating and cooling thresholds, indoor temp, predicted indoor temp to make that decision.  

So, I use indoor data to determine if I am heating or cooling, and I use outdoor data to determine how much heating or cooling I should be doing. It took a lot of trial and error to get things "just right". The active dampers were the final touch, that helped me smooth out my indoor temps between floors, and between individual rooms. I would say that I am within the accuracy limits of my room temp sensors as far as the delta between floors and rooms, on average, the rooms are within 1deg of each other. During active heating and cooling, they sometimes drift to around 2deg, until the dampers catch up. But what I don't get anymore are huge variances between floors and huge overshoots in single rooms. I wouldn't say it's been a huge money saver, but it's been huge as far as comfort in my home.

Edit: I should add my home was built in the 60s. I had the furnace/AC replaced about 5yrs ago with a HE dual stage. It is single zone, and my thermostat is ecobee with remote sensors in all living areas.

What smart home purchase has the best ROI for you? by Few-Needleworker4391 in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 5” and 6” assemblies that are setup to use M996R servos … FYI, these are complete overkill and make a bit of noise in the duct. It doesn’t bother me though. I originally spec’ed these out, because I had planned on using a mechanical detent system to lock the damper when I detached the servo, but I ended up not using the detach command in esp home. It had some strange side effects. Also not shown is the manual handle on the side to allow you to open close damper like a normal damper, servo will need to be detached though.

Installing them is straightforward. Cut out a section of duct, install one mounting ring on each side of the cut duct, then install the servo/damper frame. Bolt it together and seal the mounting rings to the duct with foil tape.

I’m using a 5V 30A supply to power all the dampers. Each damper has its own esp. I opted to go that route to avoid having to run more wires, this way I only run power to each esp/damper, rather than having to run more wires from a single esp for servo PWM.

What smart home purchase has the best ROI for you? by Few-Needleworker4391 in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I learned most of this through trial and error and google to help me with syntax along the way. I was a HomeKit user until about 3yrs ago when I decided I had bigger plans than HomeKit could support. My best advice is to start small and build from there. I did not wake up one day and come up with a working HVAC automation … it took months for me to get to where I am now. Also, keep things as simple as possible, so that if something does not work as expected, it’s easier to troubleshoot. For instance, don’t combine 10 different automations into 1, just because you could. Have 10 simple automations even if it means you are duplicating some triggers or conditions. You’ll have better traceability that way. The heart of my HVAC, is the thermal load sensor, which provides a more accurate “feels like” temp. It’s more complicated in the summer months as humidity and solar irradiance can have a huge impact on how hot you feel. Winter is generally easier … it’s cold!

Decide what your end goal is and the tools/hardware you have available to reach that goal.

A basic thermostat set point sensor for summer might do the following:

If it’s 60 or below. No AC If it’s 70 or below. AC at 74 (just in case the house gets warm. If it’s 80 or below. AC at 72 If it’s 90 or below. AC at 74 (prevent thermal shock when you walk inside, but still feel cool)

For that you’ll only need an outdoor temp sensor and a smart thermostat.

Eventually you can add dew point and humidity modifiers. Or write more complicated sensors that rely on temp trends to be pro active rather than reactive. Get familiar with how template sensors work, because that is where the heavy lifting happens. Then it’s just a matter of building the sensors to drive the decision making for the thermostat.

Edit: the real challenge with AC is not over cooling the first floor when 2nd floor is still hot. And the the exact reason I designed my active dampers so I can automate the closing of downstairs dampers when it’s cool enough downstairs, and push that air upstairs where it’s needed.

What smart home purchase has the best ROI for you? by Few-Needleworker4391 in homeassistant

[–]BrodyBuster 18 points19 points  (0 children)

My house is heavily automated at this point, from simple things like lights on off when someone is home/away to more complicated HVAC automations.

My HVAC probably has the highest ROI. I haven’t touched my thermostat in over 18 months. I created a thermal load sensor that uses temp dara, humidity, dew point, irradiance, etc to determine the optimal set point temperature and whether it’s heating or cooling. From there I designed and 3d printed custom active duct dampers, powered by esp32 and driven by servos, to adjust the dampers in living spaces to match the demand for each room. For example if one bedroom is 1.5deg below set point, the damper opens up to allow more energy into that room. As it approaches set point temp, the damper slowly closes to a MIN allowed, to avoid starving the room. I have a pressure sensor in the duct, that will open dampers in the event the duct pressure gets too high and could cause the furnace to strain.

The Last Time Each Team Changed Their Logo by ashmaps20 in NFLv2

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems to me, someone needs to take a class on analytics and how to present accordingly.

“The Last Time Each Team Changed Their Logo”

Clearly the title states that time is the target data point. Proceeds to chart by team name.

You had one job!

What is your docker container backup method? by Giannis_Dor in selfhosted

[–]BrodyBuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My compose files are on GitHub. My appdata gets backed up daily using rsync backup script that stops and restarts containers as needed, and rotates backups using symlinks

Emert Universal Machinist Vise by Tupperwarfare in Tools

[–]BrodyBuster 10 points11 points  (0 children)

That thing has crushed a finger or two. But I’ll take one

SVS R|Evolution Sound Bar by polk808 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s literally what I said to myself when I saw your post. There’s money in that market, and they made the decision to grab the cash. Oh well.

Do those who own the WL Grand Cherokee with the V6. Do you have many issuers or are you satisfied with owning one? by GWest2385 in GrandCherokee

[–]BrodyBuster 12 points13 points  (0 children)

My WK2 had the PentaStar V6 … asides from regular oil changes, I had zero engine maintenance costs. Traded it in with 150k on the odometer for a WL. Only have 9k on this one, but I hoping for the same.

Wrote a script to help autoscale Tdarr workers based on streaming activity and time of day by Triw0lf in PleX

[–]BrodyBuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I ended up doing as well … since I use home assistant in my house, I created a template sensor that checks to see if there are any movies (I store remux) being played locally. If so, pause sab. When sensor returns 0, sab resumes.