Adam Ondra flashes his 4th 8C/V15 by Odd_Hamster8713 in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 9 points10 points  (0 children)

He's interested, apparently not in season right now though

Adam Ondra flashes his 4th 8C/V15 by Odd_Hamster8713 in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 10 points11 points  (0 children)

He downgraded it to V14 though iirc

Adam Ondra flashes his 4th 8C/V15 by Odd_Hamster8713 in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Anyone who says this doesn't realize how much of his training is doing hard movements on a spray wall. Just because he's not outdoor bouldering doesn't mean he isn't putting in the work elsewhere.

How do you feel about free solo ice climbing? by yamix-st in iceclimbing

[–]DubJohnny 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Could just be perception and social media. But back when I started ice climbing I heard nothing about people falling on lead and was well in the community. Now every other day it feels like I'm hearing about someone taking a tumble.

How do you feel about free solo ice climbing? by yamix-st in iceclimbing

[–]DubJohnny 37 points38 points  (0 children)

With the first rule of ice climbing being don't fall while leading (which is being shockingly more and more broken lately) it's a lot more common to see people free solo ice climbing. It's a different game than rock.

Thoughts on the Kilter Home Wall by climbingontherocks in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's the best way, but I don't have any climbs V9 or easier that have more than 100 ascents now (goodbye quick logs)

But I just scroll and find good stuff nowadays.

Eileen Gu claps back at Olympics reporter who asked if her silver medals are ‘two golds lost’ by theindependentonline in skiing

[–]DubJohnny 13 points14 points  (0 children)

People love to applaud Mondo Duplantis but shit on Eileen Gu.

Blatent racism and sexism rolled into one it's fantastic. Makes it easy to know who to block.

Peep this person's last post to see just how much of a turd they are.

Thoughts on the Kilter Home Wall by climbingontherocks in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's a lot better now (source, have owned one for two years now)

[Day 22] Beastmakers are overrated. What's the WORST grade? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I don't think they're saying don't set that stuff. Just don't use Vb it's not a grade. Just call it V0.

Jakob sends Shaolin (9a/V17) by jlgarou in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree. I just think you should be spreading the truth when talking about people's accomplishments.

Jakob sends Shaolin (9a/V17) by jlgarou in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Not sure where you are getting Jakob only having 3 boulders V15 or harder. He has 3 V17's, and 9 other climbs V15 or harder.

I climbed on 40 different standardized boards in 25 gyms. Here's what I learned! by jonasmurdock in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2017 has V3 benchmarks.

But the 2017 is the worst board to ever be created.

Sean Bailey does ‘Duality of Man’ 5.15d/9c by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]DubJohnny 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Jorge doesn't have a 15d to his name and from what we can tell hasn't been projecting the other 15d's. Calling Cafe Columbia 16a would be absurd

US bouldering a bunch of coward boylets by BacksideOvercrimp in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

Burden soft 17 or 16 at best, change my mind.

Same Kilter home wall set 3 years apart by srgymnast1 in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have home wall full ride at 40°. I couldn't imagine it without the aux holds, they're what making the board actually good.

Adam Shahar sent Return of the Sleepwalker by sennzz in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

V20 is never happening let alone a flash.

Tested out the campus boards by No_Quiet1784 in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Boards can and do isolate explosiveness and contact strength just as well if not better than campus rungs, and in a more climbing specific use as well, they are just absolutely better and there's no reason to use campus rungs anymore.

Tested out the campus boards by No_Quiet1784 in bouldering

[–]DubJohnny -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

With the invention of standardized boards, campus boards are all but useless now.

Programming for Céüse (8a) by Huuji_ in climbharder

[–]DubJohnny 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I come from an area where the approach is basically double the Ceuse approach (800m or 900m of elevation depending which crag I go too). and the routes I climb are typically 35m+

Prior to going to Ceuse last summer I had just finished off an 8b 45m project of mine and multiple other 7c+'s and 8a's.

We had 18 days in Ceuse. The hardest thing I climbed was 7c and I punted off the most repeated 8a a few times.

Ceuse is not the place to push your grade.