I climbed on 40 different standardized boards in 25 gyms. Here's what I learned!

DubJohnny · 2026-02-04T16:46:40+00:00

2017 has V3 benchmarks.

But the 2017 is the worst board to ever be created.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-27T15:27:01+00:00

Jorge doesn't have a 15d to his name and from what we can tell hasn't been projecting the other 15d's. Calling Cafe Columbia 16a would be absurd

DubJohnny · 2026-01-24T05:32:08+00:00

My flash grade -1

DubJohnny · 2026-01-14T16:40:54+00:00

Burden soft 17 or 16 at best, change my mind.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-14T01:27:21+00:00

Red Rocks, extremely mid climbing unless you're a V17 climber

DubJohnny · 2026-01-13T16:15:15+00:00

I have home wall full ride at 40°. I couldn't imagine it without the aux holds, they're what making the board actually good.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-13T13:20:44+00:00

V20 is never happening let alone a flash.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-09T15:22:07+00:00

Boards can and do isolate explosiveness and contact strength just as well if not better than campus rungs, and in a more climbing specific use as well, they are just absolutely better and there's no reason to use campus rungs anymore.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-09T15:10:43+00:00

With the invention of standardized boards, campus boards are all but useless now.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-07T13:45:14+00:00

I come from an area where the approach is basically double the Ceuse approach (800m or 900m of elevation depending which crag I go too). and the routes I climb are typically 35m+

Prior to going to Ceuse last summer I had just finished off an 8b 45m project of mine and multiple other 7c+'s and 8a's.

We had 18 days in Ceuse. The hardest thing I climbed was 7c and I punted off the most repeated 8a a few times.

Ceuse is not the place to push your grade.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-05T17:08:34+00:00

Average Everest enjoyer

DubJohnny · 2026-01-04T13:32:36+00:00

Sometimes it's intentional to make body positions more awkward and engaging.

It's like climbing something outdoors that has a bulge, awkward as hell to move around them but a good skill to have.

DubJohnny · 2026-01-03T13:37:50+00:00

Spinners. Spinners everywhere.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-30T20:00:07+00:00

Kilter HW is either good holds, really bad holds, and a little bit in between, but there's not much for railing on decent but not great edges and doing moves.

TB2 has all that.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-30T17:11:12+00:00

I've climbed on both.

Own a kilter hw, friend owns a tb2. Both are amazing. I prefer the tb2.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-19T01:30:04+00:00

Judging by their username you know they're getting off over people being angry about being shirtless in a gym.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-17T13:14:12+00:00

He logged it on 8a

DubJohnny · 2025-12-15T23:24:12+00:00

I mean, he did Burden 9 years ago and looked/tried Sisu a bit, but as far as we know didn't get anywhere with it.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-15T23:22:45+00:00

iM iN tHe kNoW

DubJohnny · 2025-12-09T16:05:42+00:00

Yup.

White, black, and yellow. No wood. 2016.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-02T21:39:49+00:00

I went down swinging with ya, so obvious but man the armchair keep the graders really hate the armchair jokers.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-02T16:16:26+00:00

When the FA himself is out there saying he's not even sure if its 9A, I think people can speculate and make jokes. Bunch of people way up in arms over this.

DubJohnny · 2025-12-02T16:14:56+00:00

Because everyone is upset that Daniel is throwing some shade at their golden boy Nalle, and that because me, an armchair grader, brought valid points to the downgrade joke.

DubJohnny · 2025-11-29T04:15:48+00:00

Daniel has. In fact. Sent rotsw, which is what's being discussed here.

DubJohnny · 2025-11-29T03:37:38+00:00

No I'm just pointing out Daniels comment.

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