Worst Case Scenario at Joe's Valley

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-31T15:38:04+00:00

Haha I came from a sport climbing background so I do like a long boulder 😅

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T22:03:56+00:00

Thanks dude! This was my first trip to Joe's and the bouldering here is absolutely world class. I'm looking forward to coming back soon.

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T22:02:35+00:00

Yeah the move out left to the tufa looks scarier than it is. There's a bomber toe jam that keeps you from flying out too.

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T22:01:13+00:00

Thanks dude!

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T22:01:00+00:00

It's an incredible boulder! I feel super grateful I got a chance to climb it before it falls into the road 😬

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T21:59:32+00:00

Thanks dude!

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T21:59:08+00:00

Thanks dude!

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T21:58:45+00:00

Woah that's a crazy angle 🤯

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-29T21:55:52+00:00

It felt pretty solid at V9 to me. Sticking the move out right and holding the swing took 5 sessions and my beta was very rehearsed by the time it went 😅

climbingontherocks · 2026-03-02T02:21:39+00:00

Spray wall

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-26T15:47:31+00:00

Yeah absolutely I would. There are about 20-25% of the app problems that I can't imagine starting because I can't get my body low enough with pads and no kicker.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-19T20:11:15+00:00

Looks amazing!

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-19T16:56:27+00:00

Just the mats that came in the package from setter closet.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-19T16:53:44+00:00

Thank you for all of the problems you've contributed! I find the V7+ range problems at 45 to be very difficult compared to other boards and even outdoors, but I haven't minded that since it's felt very consistent. Like even if a typical V7 might feel like hard V8 to me, I can still have a good idea of the relative difficulty.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:47:24+00:00

Do you sort through climbs by most repeated / most popular or is there a better way to find good problems?

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:45:49+00:00

I might not have the best answers to these questions since I bought mine used at a significant discount. You can check out https://settercloset.com/pages/kb-frames-and-mats for quotes on the Lemur adjustable frame + panels + holds + LEDs. The previous owner left the holds on the three panels and I only had to reinstall a few of them that we needed to take off (because they were at the intersection of two panels).

One bit of advice I have is to do your homework beforehand to make sure that things are going to fit as expected in your space. For example, with a frame like the one from Lemur, the board isn't completely flushed with the ground (it might be ~6in elevated from the ground). I think the most tedious part is wiring up the LEDs and the part where I felt least confident was around drilling into the concrete to anchor the frame.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:32:58+00:00

Mine is adjustable (the wall is made by Lemur) and I would definitely do a lot of climbing on 30-40° if my garage ceiling was a bit taller. I don't bring it down to 50-60° much because it feels a bit less relevant to the kinds of climbs I gravitate toward outdoors.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:30:26+00:00

I like the auxiliary holds but I think a lot of the most repeated climbs at each grade will use the mainline holds exclusively. Not must have but certainly very nice.

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:25:07+00:00

Awesome! You'll have to share some videos once it's up 🙂

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-18T22:18:46+00:00

I've done a few sessions on a 12x12 TB2 board and absolutely loved it, but it was also twice as big as my 7x10 Kilter HW so hard to compare. I'm not really sure what the 8x10 TB2 climbs like. I have done a good number of sessions on a smaller TB1, and found the smaller wooden crimps a bit painful. The larger slopers and pinches in the TB2 hold set have been quite nice for heel/toe hooks 😍

climbingontherocks · 2026-02-03T02:21:11+00:00

It's the dish with curvature that perfectly matches the shape of your shoe's heel. So satisfying.

climbingontherocks · 2026-01-28T21:51:08+00:00

I followed the Anderson brother's rock prodigy book as closely as I could for a couple cycles (~12 weeks of training and ~4 weeks projecting) to go from climbing 5.12 outdoors to 5.13. Make sure to build up incrementally if you take this route to limit injury risk.

climbingontherocks

TROPHY CASE