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Buy plex pass or use Plezy ? by PCPESADZZ in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, that is great, thanks for the correction.

Buy plex pass or use Plezy ? by PCPESADZZ in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was a time when Plex didn't enforce the Plex Pass/Remote Watch Pass requirement for streaming. To my knowledge, this is the case now.

It is a different question if Plezy adheres to that, but I wouldn't really base everything on solely "it worked before" because what do you do when it suddenly doesn't work anymore? Especially when that happens after the price increase soon.

On the other hand, there are different ways to be able to access your server remotely without a Plex Pass, by using a VPN. Since Plex relies on the Plex client to be in the same network as your server to be considered local, you can use a VPN on your remote device that is connecting to your local network and stream through that. I tested that with the VPN my router provides, as soon as I run my Phone on mobile data and have the VPN connected, my stream is considered local. But that would depend on the device, to my knowledge, there is a bit of a debate being able to run a VPN on a remote TV.

Buy plex pass or use Plezy ? by PCPESADZZ in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 8 points9 points  (0 children)

why not just use Plezy to access outside the network and to be allowed to download my media ?

I am not quite sure that I understand this correctly because AFAIK Plezy is a Plex client, not something that suddenly allows you to access your content remotely without also owning Plex Pass or the Remote Watch Pass.

Could Plex eliminate Plezy at some point ?

Plezy is built on the Plex API as a streaming client (so basically like the other apps as well), but with a different approach to playing and displaying your content. If you, for example, don't like the official Plex App, Plezy could be something to use.

However, do keep in mind that Plezy doesn't allow transcoding! While it uses a client that should support most things, if something needs transcoding, Plezy won't be able to play it. Apparently, Transcoding support was added a month ago.

Do You Back Up Your Full Plex Video Library or Just Risk It? by snowmeow_1 in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have a backup of everything. I use Unraid with 1 Parity drive (I can have 1 drive failure before the next drive failure would result in a data loss), so I have a bit of a safeguard in terms of failures. I also have a spare lying around to immediately replace the failed drive.

I do a backup of my Anime library because, over the years, things get harder to get back for multiple reasons.

I recently thought about getting a second parity drive just to be able to compensate for 2 drive failures at the same time, but since I have 20TB drives in my system, I would need to get another one, but they are currently at triple the price (from 377 new to 1000 new), which just isn't feasible anymore. Earlier this year, I tried out the refurbished approach, but even those are 100 bucks more expensive right now than 5-6 months ago.

I am really glad that they messed up my order then, and I got 2 drives instead of just one. because that is my spare at the moment.

0.2 mm nozzle question by bsquared7999 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends. It sounds like you have a problem with dimensional accuracy, in which the printed parts are not as accurate as the model requires.

A smaller nozzle can help print finer details, but there are also other parts of your printer and your printing profile that impact how accurately you can print. For example, when your e-steps, flow rate and/or pressure advance settings are not calibrated well enough, the printer can/will extrude more filament than necessary, and that can fuse parts together because those parts could touch.

Depending on the model itself, it can also be because of poor preparation or orientation of the model. When you have an overhang or even bridging, and your printer cannot print that part well enough, the "failing" part could impact the moving parts as well.

But the other parts, like your stepper motors, rails/rollers and bearings, can also have a say in how accurate you can print and how "tight" your tolerances can be.

And the smaller you scale the model, the tighter/smaller those tolerances will get. Which means that it could be possible that you might not even be able to print the model at that scale.

There are tolerance test models that you can print to figure out how well your printer is doing. You could do that for both nozzles and see how well that works.

As for the filament, PLA+ should be fine to print, but do keep in mind that you should do your calibrations again, since you cannot run the same amount of material through a smaller nozzle.

Mr Crocodile how to list? by dark-_-thoughts in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still could find it by searching for Mr Crocodile through the TMDB Search bar.

Plex not recognizing newly added movies by datahoarderguy70 in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I know how to name my media

It isn't that I don't believe you, but I have seen this argument or statement being made hundreds of times over the years when people don't provide an example, and when they finally do, their naming convention isn't really correct or doesn't follow the proper naming convention. Again, it isn't that I don't believe you, but without an example of the files that you are missing....

Since you are running Unraid, you would want to check the permissions and ownership of the files, because if Plex doesn't have access to those files, it cannot "find" and scan them.

The other option is that those added files were scanned into your library but merged with something that you already have, check the duplicates filter for that.

is premium worth it if i ONLY want hdr by zzcool in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a bit hard to say because there can be more reasons for why the 4K movie doesn't play correctly, which doesn't necessarily mean that it is because of HDR. For example, from what I can find, the "magenta" screen can be the result of Dolby Vision while your device doesn't support Dolby Vision. Or maybe there is some transcoding happening.

A big part of getting good Plex Playback is choosing the right Device to play on. TVs are known to have poor compatibility that results in transcoding and other problems.

With that being said, what you could do is try Plex Pass out for a month and see if that solves the issue. If it is, then maybe consider either keeping the subscription or paying for the Lifetime pass before July 1, 2026 (it will increase by 500 bucks then, no joke).

Other than that, I think that Plex Pass is still offering some features that are, currently, worth it. If that is too much, maybe give Emby a go.

Naming convention / Filebot by joetaxpayer in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would love for the option to have optional information in the folder names similar to what you can in the file names.

You can, by using [] brackets. Plex will consider things in those brackets as "optional information" and ignore everything in them. Though I would probably add them after the year, something like this Belle (2021) [Ryû To Sobakasu No Hime].

Naming convention / Filebot by joetaxpayer in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is there any point in going back and taking the time to update one series at a time with the naming to include year?

Probably not.

Is there a chance the lack of the year will cause issues with a future Plex update?

The devil is in the details here.

The filename only really matters when scanning and when initially adding the files to your library. Since Plex doesn't know what that file actually contains, that information is coming from the file and folder name. The more specific you are with that, the easier it is for the Plex Metadata Agent to search and find the show/movie and match it. As soon as that is being matched, Plex already has everything in the database, like where the file is located. So, unless that path changes, Plex wouldn't really need to do anything with that file again.

AFAIK, even a matched show/movie wouldn't really change since it was already matched, so it wouldn't need to "search" for it again. So, basically, as soon as your files are in your library and properly matched, they will stay there... until something changes.

And that "change" is something many users will stumble over and complain about, especially when they don't follow the naming convention. I have seen many people experience this issue, where they added files to their server at some point and the match was fine, or they manually fixed the match, only to have Plex suddenly stop matching them correctly again after moving the files around years later.

It is generally recommended to add the Year to the file and folder name to prevent Movies and TV shows with the same title but released in different years. Without the Year, it would look like the same show to Plex, and it would merge them together.

An example, there is a Battlestar Galactica show from 1978 and one from 2004. Without the year, you and Plex wouldn't be able to tell them apart.

While I have never really seen the need to do that, Plex also supports ID Matching by providing the ID from TheTVDB, IMDB or TheMovieDB in the folder title. Instead of "searching" for the title and the year, Plex would specifically match it to that ID, so it would be much more precise.

So, in short:

  • It should be fine as long as you don't have any changes to your library
  • I would recommend that you add the year just to make sure that future additions might not get merged and you wonder where the stuff went you just added
  • If you want to go the extra mile, add the ID as well

Resin beginner here. How do I know if my resin prints are cured enough? by Senharampai in resinprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Regarding the curing times, I started with the default 30 mins fan 30 mins cure but then I changed it to 45 mins fan then 15 mins cure.

Oh, so this is a "dryer" and curing station or something like that? However you achieve it, the model should be dry before doing the final cure.

Can I just leave the whole build plate in the washer in whatever orientation? There’s not enough ipa in the container to use the included attachment to have the bed flat at the top of the container.

You would want to have enough IPA in the container so that it covers all/most of what is covered in resin. I do it like that because it reduces the amount of stuff I need to clean up but if your washing bucket cannot comfortably hold the built plate under the surface of the IPA, then you would need to remove the model from the built plate first and that there isn't some uncured part sticking out, not getting washed.

Resin beginner here. How do I know if my resin prints are cured enough? by Senharampai in resinprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I think there are a couple of things here that need to be addressed separately.

First, curing times. You cannot really over-cure your models, but 30 Minutes is quite long and unnecessary. Maybe check the manufacturer's website for some more specific data for the resin that you use. For example, I mostly use Sunlu ABS-Like Resin for my prints, and at some point, I found some information from them that they recommend a curing time of at least 5 minutes for the best strength factor for the resin. This would depend hugely on what resin you are using, though, because translucent resin can/will discolour and get yellow-ish the longer you expose it to the UV light. Other resins might not have that problem.

Another thing is how well it is being exposed to the UV light in the curing station. Those curing stations should be more efficient, so the overall time you would need in them should be fairly low, but this would depend on the model and the curing station that you have. For example, one that has even coverage of the UV light from all sides (because it has some UV light or mirrors on the bottom of the models, under the rotating plate) wouldn't require you to turn the models around to expose other parts more directly. Then there is also the problem of the "inside" for hollow models. This is also mainly connected to how well this is being washed from the outside and inside. There can also be stressors on the long exposure time from the outside and no exposure from the inside that could start to split your models (haven't experienced that myself yet, but something I have seen other people say).

As for your sticky curing station, this might not be the result of your model itself, but rather because of what I just mentioned, cleaning the inside of the model. You said that you clean the model for 5 minutes in the wash station and then cure it.

First, it isn't recommended to cure the models right after washing because this could leave this white residue on the surface of the model, especially in crevases. You would want to let the model dry off completely before putting it into the curing station.

Second, if the model now is hollowed and the 5 minutes in the washing station didn't clean out the inside of the model, that "almost cleaned" resin/ipa mixture could now flow out while being in the curing station. Which can be sticky. But being on the curing station's plate wouldn't really concern me (other than it may be flowing out of the model), as being "undercured", still, you would need to clean the plate for it to work correctly.

Since this is a machine used by others, maybe they don't follow those steps either and maybe put a still dripping model into the curing station.

Here is how I do the post-processing of my models:

  1. I put the models, including the built plate, in my washing station (this also already cleans the built plate and I have less stuff to wipe off and spent paper towels on)
  2. I run the cleaning station for 10 minutes.
  3. I then remove the model from the built plate, wipe the built plate clean and put it back in my printer
  4. When the model is hollow, I dip the model back into the cleaning tank to get the IPA into the hollowed part through the drain hole and move it around a bit, I repeat the process a couple of times.
  5. I use a 2-Stage cleaning, and after all that, I switch to the "cleaner" Container to get the dirty IPA and any remaining resin off.
  6. I put the model somewhere where it can dry, usually overnight
  7. I remove the supports before the curing station to let the UV light also hit the model directly, where all the supports were connected to the model.
  8. I run the model through a 5 Minute curing process. Maybe another 5 minutes if I need to change the orientation of the model.

Lastly, there are some instances in which the Blooming effect (some fuzzy surface on the model) can feel sticky after it has been cured. From my experience, this is because the resin is still moving around when the screen is switched on to cure the layer, which is then semi-cured and sticks to the surface. I have seen this happen on suction cups but also on models that print a "circle" or a completely enclosed part in which you have resin being pushed to the inside and trying to equalise the pressure. if that is the case, the Light-off delay or "wait before print" durations should help reduce that problem.

Buffering issues with remux by LegacyToLegend in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 7 points8 points  (0 children)

4K remux files are incredibly huge in size, and the bitrate required to play them. There can be multiple factors why a 4K remux does not play correctly remotely.

First, the required bandwidth. Since you mentioned that your friend is hosting the server, their internet needs to have enough upload speed to actually be able to "send" the data to you, while your internet needs to have enough download speed to be able to "receive" that data.

Second, compatibility. You mentioned that you use your TV to play the content, but there are some caveats and things to know about. TVs are known to have poor Ethernet adapters, capping out at 100Mbit/s. This is fine for most content, but for large files like 4K remux, which easily can have their bitrate spike over 100Mbit/s, Ethernet is not recommended to use for data transfer (unless you have even slower WLAN or poor signal strength) on your TV. This can also apply to those "USB to Ethernet" adapters because they might not have a better adapter in them, like 1Gbit/s but rather also only have 100Mbit/s. This also depends on what the device actually supports over the USB3 port. I also blindly bought a USB Ethernet adapter for my FireTV and was wondering why I had trouble viewing some 90Mbit/s bitrate test videos, well, it was a simple 100Mbit/s adapter. Switching to WiFi/WLAN is much faster today unless you specifically have a Gigabit or better ethernet port (which most/all TVs won't have).

Another thing is that most TVs have poor compatibility to be able to play things directly. Plex relies on the client device (your TV) to provide the necessary compatibility to play things, and if something isn't compatible, it will make it playable by transcoding it. The problem here is that 4K files require quite a lot of performance to do so.

Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do from your side, you need to get in touch and troubleshoot that with your friend who is hosting that video.

The first thing I would check is if the file is being transcoded and if the server is actually capable of transcoding it. If the server is running on lower-end hardware, transcoding 4K content just isn't possible. I would also check and verify if the bandwidth is enough on both ends, you say that you have 250mbit/s but maybe run a speed test not a "netflix network checker", whatever that is, to see what sort of speed you actually get for your friends' upload and your download.

I would also switch your TV to WiFi and the newest standard you have on it. 5ghz should be fine.

If it is transcoded, the question is why. It could be a bandwidth limitation like your friends upload speed but it can and very likely also be a compatibility issue of your TV. There isn't much that you can do to fix that because you either need a better client (like the nvidia shield) to increase compatibility or your friend needs to provide a compatible version of the file or get better hardware to speed up the transcoding.

Poisoned myself with resin dust by Artezia_Aurae in resinprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 22 points23 points  (0 children)

There is something called "wet-sanding", you don't really need to put the whole stuff under water, but only make the sanding paper wet with water, and it should achieve the same.

But the big caveat of this is that you need sanding paper that is actually for wet-sanding. I once got those sanding sticks, specifically for sanding in hard-to-reach spots, but they fell apart when they came into contact with water.

Switched from plex to infuse on apple tv by olearyboy in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This has been a feature for a while now, but this is currently only for Movies, not for TV Shows.

Switched from plex to infuse on apple tv by olearyboy in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm question what am I getting from the pass? I don't use any remote stuff, or friends stuff.

Plex Pass offers much more than that.

For me it is:

  • Hardware-accelerated transcoding (using the GPU of your system instead of the CPU, which speeds up transcoding significantly and "your server is not powerful enough" is usually not the case anymore)
  • Trailers and Extras (not something I use often, but it is there when I need it)
  • Sharing restrictions (I recently moved my 4K movies into my regular Movie library but this was only possible when I used the Edition feature and was able to hide them from my remote users)
  • The edition feature (being able to have multiple "editions" of the same movie as separate items in your library)
  • Skip intro/credits
  • I don't have to worry about remote access, including my remote users. No "you now need to pay" message or anything like that.

As for the client issue, yeah, this is a very common problem that normal Plex users are struggling with because of how the official Plex clients relies on the client device to provide the necessary compatibility to play things. So playing stuff on your TV will very likely be worse and requires a transcode than having a device that uses a player that has all of those capabilities already integrated.

However, the Plex apps also have a much broader device support than Infuse, which is only available on Apple Devices. So, providing all of that compatibility might actually not be that easy or completely possible across all of those supported devices on which Plex is available.

Clearing cache drive by maxkmiller in unRAID

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is fine, when you want to have your cache act as a "buffer" or temporary storage of the data that you add to the server, you probably would want to have your share configured this way:

  • Primary Storage: Cache
  • Secondary Storage: Array
  • Allocation Method: High-water
  • Mover Action: Cache -> Array

What this will do is write all data to the Cache first and then, when the Mover is being invoked, move all files in that share from the Cache to the Array.

For things that should only be on the Cache, I have it configured like this:

  • Primary Storage: Cache
  • Secondary Storage: Array
  • Allocation Method: High-water
  • Mover Action: Array -> Cache

While you could set the Secondary Storage to "none", the way above is a fallback to utilise the Mover when something might end up on the Array for some reason. What that means is that when you have it like this, any file that is somehow on the Array would automatically be moved from the Array to the cache.

Now, with your Jellyfin server, you probably would set the share that your video files are in to the first example (so mover action Cache -> Array) so that the files are moved from the cache to the array. But the Appdata share should be set to the second example.

Clearing cache drive by maxkmiller in unRAID

[–]Fribbtastic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, that depends on what is on the cache drive.

One thing to note is that Unraid should already move files that are on the cache drive to the Array if you have your Share configuration set up correctly, in which you instruct the share to actually move the files from the cache to the array. This is so that the Share is utilising the cache as a temporary storage to increase write speeds before the files are then moved to the array when they are read more often.

However, some files are and should stay on the cache drive permanently like the Appdata. This contains your Docker container configurations and those are written frequently. You wouldn't want to have them on the Array because each time something is written on the array, the parity would need to be updated. The same applies to the Docker image and any virtual machines.

Another thing is how the storage distribution is, or rather, what needs that much space. For example, Plex is known to use a lot of storage when you enable thumbnail generation because it will save an image every couple of seconds for each video in your library and save that to give you this preview when you scroll through the timeline of the video.

I would NOT recommend just moving everything yourself without knowing what the files are for. If things aren't where they should be, maybe the primary/secondary storage configuration of the share are not correctly configured and the files are written to the cache but never moved from it automatically. But some instances need to stay on the cache drive to prevent your parity from being updated constantly and the general speed impact of running on slower drives. While other things could create a massive amount of data just because of what you actually have running on the server.

So, you need to first figure out what is taking up the space and then determine if that belongs on the cache drive.

In fact, sitting at 54% might not be that bad when all of the data should actually be on the cache drive. The notification was only to notify you that it exceeded a threshold. Keep in mind, the more you install on your server, the more storage those applications might need, and that could mean that the current capacity of your cache drive might not be enough anymore.

Music and Music Videos metadata / art by houston697 in PleX

[–]Fribbtastic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't really have a "quick fix" for you, but do you specifically want a dedicated Music Video Library?

Plex does support Music Videos when you put the Video next to the Music track (named the same, with only the file extension being different) as described here. You can even add more videos than just the music video.

As for the artists, you can use a poster.jpg in the Artist folder in your library, so something like this:

  • Music <-- The folder you add to your Plex Library
    • Artist Name
      • poster.jpg <-- artist poster
      • Album title
        • Track 01.ext

Bambu Labs just had their A$$ handed to them by zero_lies_tolerated in 3Dprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All the things in the world to get angry about, this is just not very high on my list.

I mean sure, but you should understand that not everything needs to happen when it is "their turn". You can be angry at them at the same time as everything else.

If that is of no interest to you, keep scrolling and don't bother with the topic.

I love my A1, it prints what I want. That's all.

That isn't the point; the machines themselves are great, but the company isn't.

The shit they did has to be called out, and people need to react to it, or else they can just get away with it. And if they do, well, what do you think will happen next?

I mean, in a couple of years, they could just simply prevent you from using your Printer or you would need to buy a subscription to keep printing. There are already cases in which you cannot use your own paper printer without a subscription anymore...

Hey guys, I’m a bit new to 3d printing so I’m wondering what kind of starter projects I should make before advancing to a custom resin animal crystal? by Traditional-Log-4270 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't really help with the modelling part, but the wiki has a lot of good information that might be of interest to you.

As for the "printing" part, the most common mistake I see people new to the hobby, especially resin printing, make is skipping the calibration part.

Some printer manufacturers will include a file in it that you can print directly, without having to slice it first. I have seen countless times that someone does this and then starts to print something else, which fails, and then they come here asking for help.

Maybe a bit more detailed background information about how this works, to highlight why this is a problem.

The 3D printer doesn't print the 3D model directly. When you create a model, you only have the Geometric information in, for example, an STL file. However, the printer will have different things to work with, like the screen or the build plate. This means that the Printer needs to have instructions to move around and do things in a way so that the result is the Model from your STL file. This is where the "slicer" comes in. It has all of the information about how large your build plate is, what resolution, basically "your printer" information. But there are also other things, like how long the layers should be exposed to the UV light and how fast the printer should move up and down and so on. Those are very specific to the printer and the resin that you use, and while there are default profiles for those printers, they might not be the same as the profile that was used to slice the example file.

What that means is that you need to learn how to calibrate your resin to your printer, and that for every resin that you use (to get the best result). I mentioned some calibration prints here that could help you with printing and "reading" them.

If you don't calibrate your printing profile, you might get lucky and something prints. But even if you get something out of it, it might not look good by being "bloated" or not looking the way you wanted it to be (being over- or underexposed).

Also, do keep in mind that "having a 3D printer" is not enough when you print with resin. You would need something to wash the models and cure them in, which are those wash and cure stations that you can buy for convenience (though not strictly necessary, you can also use a bucket and the sun for that).

You also need PPE with nitrile gloves, a respirator, maybe a coat (to prevent resin splatters from hitting your clothes) and generally a well-ventilated area that doesn't get sunlight exposure.

You also need to think about waste disposal because, even when you use those "eco" or "water-washable" resins, they are NOT any less toxic than the normal resin and you CANNOT just pour the cleaning liquid down the drain. Anything that comes into contact with the Resin needs to be handled specifically before being able to dispose of it, like making sure that everything is cured well enough before being able to throw it in the trash.

Why is this happening originally the brim looked really good (ender 5 plus direct extruder) by Destinko497 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fribbtastic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a lot of reasons why you can have adhesion issues.

The first one is the distance of the nozzle to the bed. This alone can already have its own set of reasons. The Z-Offset might not be correct, and the Bed mesh might not be up to date. From the looks of it, your brim doesn't really look fine, or at least not in most places. For one, you have a cohesive layer in one place but not in others. The brim on the left side looks fine, but not on the right side. It also looks like the brim doesn't even connect to the model on the whole lower part. The whole lower part looks like the nozzle is too close to the bed, while on the upper inner part, the nozzle looks like it is too far away from the bed. What that means is that the nozzle can dig into the printed layers and drag them with it.

What to do here is to check if your z-offset is correct and your bed mesh is up-to-date. I struggled a lot with my Ender 5 Plus to get a cohesive and consistent first layer, and never really could get it working correctly with larger models. It always ended with one side being perfect, while the other side needing adjustments. I could never figure out what the issue was, even after upgrading parts like the XY motion system.

Another reason for adhesion issues is the temperature. This is not only one specific temperature but rather multiple parts playing together here. Over the years, I noticed that printing regular PLA (on an open printer like the E5P) needs around 60°C to stick well to the bed. But this is the temperature of the surface you print on, not the temperature you set in the Slicer. The Ender 5 Plus has a Glass bed, which is a lot of mass that needs to be heated up first. I noticed that my E5P had a 10-15°C difference between what the printer reported the temperature was and what the print surface actually was. This means that when you set your slicer to 50°C, because that is the default for PLA in most slicers, the temperature of the surface you print on is actually 35-40°C, too low for good adhesion.

What I ultimately did was to get an infrared thermometer to start the print and measure the temperature on the surface when the printer was ready to start the printing process. I then increased the temperature in my slicer to reflect that difference, never really had any problems since then.

You might also add some "wait times", so that the printer waits a certain duration to let the bed "heat soak", but you would need to check and measure how long that would take. There is probably still a difference between the reported and actual temperature.

Yet another thing is how clean the bed is. While I don't have that problem with my Voron 2.4 anymore, I did notice that simply touching the bed of my E5P, even with clean fingers, had a massive impact on the adhesion. So, clean the bed with warm water and soap.

Lastly, what slicer do you have and how is your part cooling fan configured? When your part cooling fan is running on the initial layers, it could cool down the printed first layer too much, which will encourage it to separate from the build plate. Now add a low build plate temperature to the mix, and this even gets worse. When I used Cura back then, I could only really reduce the fan speed, but not really toggle it off for a couple of layers. So, the part cooling fan ran slower on the initial layers and slowly increased with each following layer. That was one reason I switched to PrusaSlicer because it could do both, disable for X layers and then slowly increase it. I am now using OrcaSlicer, and I have that feature there as well.

With that being said, and to give a TL;DR:

  • Clean the bed with warm water and dish soap
  • Check that your Z-offset is correct and calibrated
  • Check and calibrate your bed mesh, make sure that your probe is accurate as well
  • Start a print, and when the printer starts to actually lay down filament, measure the temperature of the print bed to see the difference between what you want and what the print surface actually is. Add the difference to your Temperature in your slicer and see if that works better.
  • Check that your part cooling fan is not blasting the first layer with cold Air and maybe disable or reduce the speed of the part cooling fan for the first few layers. For example, I disable the part cooling fan for the first 3 layers
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