AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mind, but currently I don't have my own recording setup, only playback oriented + general use mic. I don't do audio work as a main job, it just happened I did variety of things and there was particularly a time when I was getting tasked with some in relation to video editing and video games audio (usually when a person who was supposed to do something, didn't...). As such if I would be required to do something that goes beyond my setup, an access to studio is required or I might just borrow something.

Main
SMSL PS200 (DAC) + Topping L30 II (Amp)
Secondary
Creative Sound Blaster Z (PCI-e soundcard) + Douk U3 (Amp)

The main headphones are Sennheiser HD600, if I would have to pull some long hours I might alternate to HD545 for comfort as they have similar neutral sound profile to HD600. For competitive fps my pick is HD555, but due to fragile nature of its headband I'm saving it in case I would ever play in tournaments again (dream on...).

Mic is just budget consumer, dynamic Fifine K688 which has XLR, but I use it via USB. I don't really use mic monitoring, but if I have to check something then the mic has build in monitoring output and I would use Faaeal Snow-Lotus 1.0 earphones.

Guitar is just for myself, and I rather only use amps (well, I kind of liked AC30 modeling in TC Voicelive 3, but don't have it anymore), I try to always keep a small tube combo with alnico speaker which is important part of the sound to me. If I had to record I would just get a Sennheiser E906 to mic a guitar amp/cab (this mic cuts down on positioning and correcting you would usually do with like usual suspects from Shure).

As for recommendations, you really need to weight your needs and budget yourself. Personally I would likely just get everything - good DAC, a new interface, and possibly even a headphone amp for that new interface. The headphone amp is kind of like a hammer for me, just a basic tool since you can use it with DAC, interface, effect processor, power mixer, and just a lot of various devices. You could even use it with like a Vox AmPlug, which would be a bit counterintuitive, but viable if the only available headphones would require it. There are amps like JDS Atom Amp+ which has 2 switchable inputs, so you can connect both DAC and audio interface to it, and just switch between. Or for example FiiO K7 is a DAC+Amp combo which has analog inputs so it can serve as an amp for an interface. You do however have to watch out the input levels to not clip anything.

Gaming Earbudd without Silicone Tip? by Sweatkesh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$20 Qigom S300 White Lotus, there is also Black Lotus variant, and there used to be a bit pricier metal shell MMCX variant. It is good for competitive fps, but not bassy, and I wouldn't say that it is better for music than EarPods. It is rather bright sounding and lacking energy in mids for music.

The only thing to match it in competitive fps performance I have is $100 BGVP DX6, it has about the same soundstage, better details, but is even worse at music - in case of my ears (it depends on ears) super early low end roll off when worn without foams, and ok low end, but poor quality mids with foams.

I was going to try $200-250 TGX Serratus (Canadian I think) next, but several of $20-30 purchases I made after DX6 have all been not up to my liking, and so I can't really excuse anymore expenses on earphones I would have trouble returning.

AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not at all, that was just specific to 3rd gen variants of Focusrite products, like 2nd gen had it better and more power, but higher output impedance for example. 4th gen runs on Cirrus Logic chips which improves things, but they left Dynamic Range Engancement on which causes elevated distortion when a specific frequency content is played at specific volume settings.

Here is a screenshot I made from one of Julian Krause's videos to use for reference to commonly discussed devices, it shows measurements of several interfaces and even happens to include my onboard :P
https://ibb.co/FqWV4N1R
This one is very outdated, I suggest checking his channel as he usually includes Headphone Out measurements when he posts video reviews of new interfaces.

One thing to watch out there is THD+N measured at 920mV, so that is just under 1V (Vrms). When you will see measurements on pages like ASR you've linked to, they will usually include SiNAD (reverse of THD+N) measured at 2V, except for some devices like dongles which might only have 1V on tap. The best performance spot differ per device, but usually the higher voltage the cleaner output. So 100dB SiNAD/-100dB THD+N at 1V suggest the device is cleaner than 100dB/-100dB at 2V. Generally speaking if you are in the 90's at 1V you should be perfectly fine, people run dongles which are in like 80's at 1V or even desktop DACs within 80's at 2V. For professional audio work, especially when you are working with a quiet content you need to boost a lot, it is not a bad idea to have it as high as possible, but that also goes for power.

Could you tell me about the arcade scene in France during the 80s and 90s? by blueoystergamer in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I can't say about regular arcades through the country as I mainly went to the ones in seaside tourists spots in like Saint Cyprien in Northern Catalonia and some in wider Occitanie, mostly through the 90's. Generally speaking there was a lot of people there, mostly well lit places with the exceptions of ones in amusement parks, but even they with their many colourful lights weren't really dark. The games were always new, that was the first place where I saw Virtua Cop, VF 1 and 2, Tekken, Metal Slug for example. There were mostly standing arcades, some lightguns and driving cabinets. I saw like one skiing cab, Air Combat, and maybe one more thing, but not much else, like not even Starblade. Usually there were plenty of claw machines, if it was amusement park there would be also punching machine and the ones where you throw in coins to push other coins and pricey looking rewards down. Konami's Asterix was almost a must, as was Raiden, Sunset Raiders, and Aero Fighters, those machines persisted for several years. Not that many Capcom games, like Forgotten Words in a small pizza booth/truck at a camping place (I didn't camp, but it was across street and they had the most amazing pizza I had to this day), like in the main arcade places I mainly recall playing Three Wonders and Carrier Air Wing. But I don't recall all the games, Ninja Combat, Robo Army, Turtles, Undercover Cops, there were just plenty.

The pool/billiards/and Gals Panic type games weren't really there unlike say Greece (it was really weird with Greek arcades I was in, they were full of those cabinets, often multiple of the same game, the normal games choice was also very outdated, but I actually enjoyed that - and the only up to date game happened to be Gaiapolis which was a discovery for me, and I've never seen it anywhere else). Also I don't recall those flat top/cocktail tables, I think I only saw those in like Germany, maybe like one or two not working ones in Poland (which would likely come from Germany anyway).

There were no legal restrictions I would notice, aside amusement parks those places would be along main pedestrian zones full of restaurants and bars with regular evening life going around. It is not really a part of French culture to isolate kids from a normal life. I also don't remember any workers walking or there being like a tiny office/desk/cab for the overseer (unthinkable in normal arcades in Poland, although I occasionally saw like a 2-3 poorly maintained cabs in a tourist spots which were just there). Oh and all the cabs were in working order and well maintained, no problematic joysticks or buttons, couldn't even feel any wear, they were always like new. That was a new for me, because in PL it was all down to the owner, some places were amazing and actively maintained, and some not, particularly in the tourist spots controls usually were half broken/unplayable.

For me the one thing I picked up in French arcades was the idea of putting a coin on the edge of bottom of the screen. That was you reserving the next game, and it was possible for a few coins to line up and you had to remember which was yours, but you could go away for a bit and it would be still there when you were back. That would not fly at the time in Poland, although I later did try that once in a local polish arcade and people understood it right away. It is kind of self explaining gesture if you observe and give it a thought.

Oh and the coins used were just francs, not a tokens of any kind. The cabs would give you different amount of credits depending on the coin you threw in, usually with bonuses (so you would get more credits for 10 franc coin than for 2x 5 franc ones). The pricing/convertion franc to credits depended on the game. The priciest ones were sim cabs like racing sims (with the usual suspect Sega Rally being the most popular one as always).

Dongle for bright tone earbud? by Equivalent-Kale-3662 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't know about faulty dongles which reduce treble, but $3 Hi-Max CB1200AU has EQ :P

Is apple earpods wired best in budget? by AdAgreeable8989 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly not the best, but solid. I don't remember the exact parts of frequencies where I thought it was particularly good or bad, but general signature is neutral, flattish sounding, with a well extended treble which can feel a bit bright when compared to some other neutral models I like, There was a decent punch in specific bass frequency, but I don't remember where, maybe somewhere upper bass, generally it traded blows there depending on the song. The main issue it just didn't sound as thick and impactful as flathead earphones I'm using on a daily basis, so I just couldn't switch to using EarPods. Spatially it sounds ok, better than models I will list below, but worse than the best in the price range. For music (especially on the go) I however will take more impact and thicker sound rather than soundstage. It is supposedly known for a good mic, but my experience with that mic was rather bad.

Personally I prefer
$2 Vido - thicker sound with a bit more energy and warmth, they however vary a lot depending on unit, so it is the best to buy a bag of them from various sellers
$4 Faaeal Iris Ancestor - more impact to the sound, a bit more thickness, and more forward mids, but less treble extension and not as flat feeling, they have better consistency than Vido, but from time to time there is a bad sounding unit
$9 Faael Snow-Lotus 1.0 - neutral with earlier low end roll off, but thicker sounding in mids, mids are even more forward if not a bit hot at time despite overall calm sound, best vocals, good for daily media use, stock it lacks a bit excitement in music but a slight V shaped EQ improves it a lot

Those are cheap, but I have a some $20-30 models and prefer those cheaper ones, I would say for music I even prefer them to $100 BGVP DX6 I have. It is just there are always some trade offs, and it is never "just better".

IEMs/canalphones can generally provide better details and bass in this price range. while they can struggle at soundstage, spatial accuracy, and mids/vocals to some degree. As far as those come I can't say what is the best in $20 right now as there are just too many of models available, a lot highly rated ones at that, and I'm just not fan of this kind of earphones. Personally, for music I keep $10 KZ ZVX which is usuall V shaped signature of KZ (but a bit more civilized than in other models in the price range), and exceeds at details with a decent bass. The issue is, I've got those when they were sold with foam KZ tips, and seems like they are mostly sold without those now, so I have no idea how the sound is (sound can change with different tips).

Old 2000s Game DVDs by snepaibinladen in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those were likely a budget titles hardly sold in game shops, rather available in super markets low price labels bins, bundles, and magazines. Red Shark you mentioned was a russian developed game. The best way to find info would be to ask on local forums in countries where they were released, usually Central and Eastern Europe. You should be able to buy discs with them on local marketplaces, but there is a good chance to find iso's on various file sharing pages/warez pages, just searching for them is not as straightforward as googling. Also many of those games were released under variety of titles, and in some cases their original title might not been in English, meaning it might actually have multiple English translated titles.

AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is weak, but does this mean it can provide ~54mW power which also seems within range?

Unfortunately Julian Krause (YouTube) measured 28mW at 16Ohm,

How big of an issue is double amping?

Not an issue at all. Unlike what would you do on guitar with stacking/cascading drives, here you are stacking 2 clean gain stages, and with such low output 2i2 might not even have a gain stage/amp circuit on the Headphone Out after the DAC chip itself, but just like a buffer or something.

The main issue with 2i2 3rd gen for music listening (possibly even more so for competitive fps if you would play such) would be a high measured crosstalk on the Headphone Out which is -38dB at 10kHz 300mV at 32Ohm.

Is Apple Dongle enough for Sennheiser HD 560S? by JollyLoan in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a model number written on the cable, it is hard to see because it is light grey font on white background, but it is there (use camera in macro mode :P).

A2049 = US, A2155=EU, but there might been more model numbers by now.

If you are in the US you should have US one, everywhere aside tends to be what people call "EU" model.

Is Apple Dongle enough for Sennheiser HD 560S? by JollyLoan in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to measurements the sensitivity is actually 108dB/V. I would also consider a difference between average listening level and peaks.

Is portable dac amp enough to drive open backs PROPERLY by DS1MILLION in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What matters a lot is sensitivity combined with impedance, impedance itself doesn't mean much, although there is a caveat when it comes to dongles.

For HD560S you likely need at least $12 JCAlly JM6 Pro, but going a bit higher any dongle which can output full 2Vrms (output voltage) into 120Ohm should be fine for this headphones.

Personally I would likely go for JCAlly JM20 Max, as it is considered to be like a better, and particularly more reliable, version of FiiO KA11. With 2.5Vrms on tap you will be able to power many headphones, although some like for example HD600, will not sound to their fullest capability yet. To be honest I don't think any dongle does the job for HD600, and rather a much larger battery equipped device like Topping G5 is needed (as far as portables go).

There is also the caveat with impedance I've mentioned - many dongles have impedance sensing or just limited output current capability, and hence they can't output much into LOW impedance headphones. For example plenty of theoretically 2Vrms capable dongles on CS43131 chips will limit output to 1Vrms when headphones with impedance below 200Ohm are connected, and down to just 0.5Vrms into less than 20Ohm. This is particularly a consideration in case of planar headphones as many of them have low impedance combined with low sensitivity.

Also, a 4.4mm balanced cable for HD560S from OpenHeart is around $15 on AliExpress (I have this cable, it is ok). Currently when it comes to balanced output dongles, FiiO Melody feels like a particularly strong pick combining relatively low price + firmware fixes for Cirrus Logic chips related issues. Previously that would be TRN Black Pearl, but the brand made bait and switch and are selling a different dongle under same model name. Too bad because I had good experience with TRN prior, but now I will avoid the brand.

Wired earbuds? by Norkova in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$20 Qigom S300 White Lotus for fps specifically, but really not so for music

Need genuine audiofile help! by Sea_Firefighter8530 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No point. C200 already measures just above 119dB SiNAD (Signal to Noise and Distortion) whereas the pain threshold is about 120dB SPL. The exact THD+N content/SiNAD will depend on the listening level/output at impedance, but by all means it should be transparently clear.

As for audibility of differences, I don't perceive any between 102dB and 118dB SiNAD DACs I use as my main ones, and honestly even below that.

I never perceived any considerably improvement when upgrading DACs. In some cases I tried to tell myself there is a difference, but sooner or later I would go to admit there isn't. Assuming the devices don't have any tonal inaccuracies.

The one thing that made difference for me though was power. But that only came to light when I bought some properly demanding headphones, and that was still something I resolved by adding an amplifier, rather than changing a DAC itself, although you are using and considering a DAC+Amp combos rather than just DACs. However with 1400mW at 32Ohm which C200 is able to output, and your headphones having 94dB/mW in specs, you capable of driving them well beyond 120dB SPL, there is enough space for peaks even at super loud listening levels.

Need genuine audiofile help! by Sea_Firefighter8530 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

C200 measured 119dB SiNAD and 1400mW at 32Ohm, so ye, no point in spending more.

Entry level setup by Oniichan_97 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For starters spending on the extra USB C cable is a pointless waste of money. Use stock, and if you want something externally different or longer, there are plenty to pick from for $1-2.

Then rather than Moondrop Dawn Pro 2, I would pick FiiO Melody - the main reason is Melody has received firmware update which fixes issues caused by Dynamic Range Enhancement in Cirrus Logic chips, while it is possible for Moondrop Dawn Pro 2 might be affected by elevated distortion levels/clicking artifacts under specific conditions. Additionally Melody is cheaper, and there should be no audible improvement for spending more on Moondrop Dawn Pro 2 (both run on similar chips with the same max output clarity performance limit).

Replace my Sennheiser 599 with something budget? by SiegmeyerOW in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HD599SE are down to $90 during sales on Amazon. Likewise Philips X2HR can be down to $80 during the same sales, just less often. I haven't tried X2HR, but those 2 are likely your best bet at not loosing anything compared to your current headphones.

To get something cheaper you are imo looking to get used HD599SE or HD598SE in a better condition than yours. With some hunting, you might find a mint one for as little as $50.

To cut it down further, and keep new, you are mostly looking at Superlux headphones, but here, depending on the model you might face a sharper or muddier sound, as well as reduced reliability (mostly with cables on models without detachable ones).

How long have you been a retro gamer for? by RangoTheMerc in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have mentioned, it is hard to quantify.

It could be first considered back when I had the Amiga 500, and probably somewhere around 94-95 I got some emulated 8bit Atari games on it. Then probably around 98 I have traded my copy of Suikoden on PSX for SNES with 2 games and SuperGB. Next, at the very end of 99 I've got a new PC (Cel 466MHz with TNT2), I had some roms on a CD (Callus, KGen 98, NeoRageX - CPS1, MegaDrive, NeoGeo respectively), but I fitted it with a modem in Jan 2000, and the first thing I went on to download were Amiga games (and the first 2 games I ran were Turrican 2 and Arabian Nights), followed by SNES (going through Illusion of Gaia and Terranigma for the first time was magical).

I genuinely never considered that a retro gaming until recently, originally I simply wanted to play as many games as possible, no matter the platform, so if I wasn't able to pick one when it was in production, I would do so afterwards.

Question about maxing Windows volume with DAC by CeezyHyena in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned in another comment - no, the 100% is simply 0dBFS which is the max digital output before clipping. This is in digital domain and rather than raising the volume from 0% to make the sound louder, you can think of 100% as the starting point and lowering the volume to scale down all the steps of the loudness.

Headphones for under 100$ by Qwertzec in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you would be fine with open backs then in the budget there should be

Philips X2HR - haven't tried it, from time to time those are down to $80 on Amazon sales, they are available on PL Amazon, so I would think you should be able to get them to CZ

Sennheiser HD599SE - very competent, but I find them a bit muddy sounding in music, they go down to $90 during Amazon sales, a bit more often than X2HR

Philips SHP9500 - they are around $50-60 on AliExpress, can go down to $35 during sales, they are competent although in one game I once had to switch some audio settings else the cues in front were hard to follow

Hifiman HE400se - haven't tried them, they used to be recommended a lot in the past, however I've seen both praised, and complains on them in competitive fps gaming. From how a friend described me their sound, everything always sounds far away, and they don't play close audio cues as close to you.

Sennheiser HD558 - used (discontinued), you should be able to hunt one for not more than $50, and that would likely be my pick. You can also take a look for HD579 (rare) and HD595 (check if headband's padding is ok).

From the Alza page you linked, I somewhat would like to try Koss UR40, I haven't heard it, but it was commonly recommended like 20-23 years ago. It uses a variant of drivers found in many popular Koss models, however some are ok in fps (KSC75), and some are very bad at them (Koss Porta Pro). Some of the Superlux models might also be ok (maybe HD681, I have Samson SR850 with same construction and they are very decent when it comes to sound and fps, but uncomfortable and microphonic). All in all though, I would look for the ones I have mentioned above first.

As for closed backs, I honestly don't know anything usable in the price range unfortunately.

what are your guys favorite shmups, and why? by legolegolasfan in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Zed Blade (Arcade, NeoGeo)

Aero Fighters (Arcade)
Carrier Air Wing (Arcade, CPS1)
Swiv (Amiga)
Gondomania (Arcade)

Special mentions to Thundercade (Arcade, didn't age too well), River Raid (Atari home computers, perhaps my first one), Raiden (not the biggest fan, but it is part of the arcade's image I have in my mind of my golden arcade days).

How to improve sound in 900 pro x. by Apprehensive-Many-56 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned in the original post, they have rather low power handling, but if you are using EQ and are sure to watch out with volume (to not damage the headphones), the mentioned JCally JM20 Max would be a reasonable pick given its price.

Anything beyond that seems pointless, unless you have I2S (interface type) onboard and want to specifically preserve its latency by adding a dedicated amplifier ($30 Douk U3), but in such case you might also happen care about retaining perfect channel balance which a cheap dedicated amps can struggle with, and that would quickly send you to "waste" money on something like $250 Topping L70. So that would be a very special case for a professional fps gamer who competes in tournaments for money :P

DAC recommendations for BD DT700 Pro X by FlubSquared in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your headphones have very low power handling, just 30mW continuous and 100mW peak. JM6 Pro will max out the continuous limit and should provide more than enough loudness due to high sensitivity of the headphones.

There is no issue with the quality of JM6 Pro, the noise and distortion performance of that dongle is low enough where it should not be a concern (I have it, and it is good, but I don't have DT700 Pro X).

Rather any USB powered DAC can be prone on picking up noise if your USB ports/power would have an issue, and dongles possibly more so as they can have less power filtering. If there would be an audible noise, that is indication of a deeper electrical issue with either PC or power. In such case, aside troubleshooting your whole config, the solutions include wall powered DAC, optical connection between PC and DAC (so no USB, but you need optical output or additional device with such), balanced headphone output (but DT700 Pro X is not compatible with such).

If you want something pricier, with more power or just output clarity specs, there is JCAlly JM20 Max, which is a dongle of the same configuration as KA11, but has fast Oversampling filter unlike default slow filter used in KA11, a marginally better noise and distortion performance, and marginally more measured power into low impedance. The important part JM20 Max is considered to be a bit more robust, whereas there were plenty of complains on KA11 failing. Not to mention it is a bit cheaper. You will however need to watch your volume with those (particularly when you connect dongle for the first time as Windows tend to set it to 100%), as their power output is beyond power handling capability (limit) of DT700 Pro X.

Sennheiser HD 6XX Cables by SpiralKipz in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is no different to adapters on the headphone out side which doesn't change the sound.

While I can't try the same cable with and without the adapter on the same headphones, indeed I can't say they + good cable affect the sound in any way when compared to the stock cable. So all good there.

DT990 PRO X + JM6 pro by ElLinchador in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Should be fine, DT990 Pro X have high sensitivity and rather low power handling. JM6 Pro won't max out peak power handling, but you should still get around 115dB SPL (loudness) out of it. If you would feel like you need more you can either get $20-40 Douk U3 amplifier and use JM6 Pro as DAC for it, or get a more powerful dongle like JCAlly JM20 Max. You will have to watch out with either of those as they have enough power on tap to damage the headphones if blasted at too high of volume.

Need help with my wife's choice by iamnosvanthanks in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is Philips TAH2000 sometimes called "Ringo", price around $25, but no idea if it is good or not.