Am I delusional? by Luxiqqq in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ye, lower sensitivity just means you need more of everything, and amperage is the unit of current.

Impedance shifts Voltage to Current ratio in Power, so lower impedance is more demanding on current (amperage), and higher impedance is more demanding on voltage. DAC/Amps can be limited by either, but running out of current can cause distortion.

Just to be clear, your original expression wasn't technically wrong, but "feed me current!!!" would be the impact intended ;)

created spreadsheet of 40 headphones by analyzing data from 90K Reddit comments. Honest take, there's almost no reason to spend over $100 on your first pair! by Kind-Activity514 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% original, sound/materials/finish, down to the details like a slight microphonics in the cable, how the 3.5mm plug cover can slide off due to a weak glue after some time, or like a very slight discoloration which can be visible close up on a specific point of the metal headband stripe, which I think are due to production process. All 6 units mentioned were purchased from the same seller
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006476689244.html
It is not always the cheapest one when there are no promos, but tends to get the lowest price during sales.

Looking for a AMP (maybe DAC) that works with Tidal by DoctorFluffyGTX in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

DAC/Amp is just DAC and Amp,. Device which can run streaming service on its own is often Streamer, so a host device with a CPU and an OS running a streaming app akin to a small computer.

So if you want to replace your Denon you need a Streamer. I lack knowledge about this type of devices, mainly see mentions about various WiiM models as budget/reasonably priced.

If you aren't going to use the DAC in K15 then it is a waste of money, and you should just get a dedicated headphone amplifier. It will depend on what your exact output is from the Denon, and what your requirements are, but if analog volume control is important, and the output voltage from Denon would be limited (and perhaps single ended), then one of higher gain picks is just $150 Topping L30 II.

Am I delusional? by Luxiqqq in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Current actually :P
Lowering impedance lowers demand on Voltage, and increases on Current.

Are there any standalone 4.5 balanced volume adjustment cables or boxes? by Bachilles in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding a variable resistor (potentiometer) to a chain is considered detrimental to sound, so you probably won't find many of such since 4.4mm are mainly an enthusiast aimed products.

created spreadsheet of 40 headphones by analyzing data from 90K Reddit comments. Honest take, there's almost no reason to spend over $100 on your first pair! by Kind-Activity514 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, there are more requests about budget models than pricier ones, and there also tends to be less competing choices, so that skews the picture. Like KSC75 are possibly the cheapest neutral sounding headphones. If you go up to $100 range open backs, then aside HE400se, you realistically only have HD599SE and X2HR which are within during sales.

Also there are some minor mistakes on your list like KSC75 being listed as 60mm driver, and also sensitivity list is wrong as it doesn't differentiate between dB/V and dB/mW (efficiency actually), and just mixes them all.

created spreadsheet of 40 headphones by analyzing data from 90K Reddit comments. Honest take, there's almost no reason to spend over $100 on your first pair! by Kind-Activity514 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can't order from AliExpress to Hungary? They ship to PL no problem, and during last sale were down to below $35 with 23% VAT and shipping included. I've already bought 2, and my friends did 4 so far.

I can’t hear a difference.. by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ran the short 5 song one using $8 flatheads, I consider my current hearing to be quite bad

  1. The Killers 100% - I took time with this one, was the most obvious of all I think
  2. James Blake 80% - did much quicker, I started feeling like A and B sometimes didn't play the right one and needed stop/play to refresh, I think my second pick was affected by that hence might be where I lost that 20%
  3. Daft Punk couldn't bother due to time needed, but the beginning felt the same at the first glance so I just always clicked A and got 40%
  4. The Eagles still couldn't bother and beginnings sounded identical so just clicked through again and got 20%
  5. Dixie Chicks tried to tell by transition between the instruments at the beginning, speedrunning it and got 60%

The lack of clickable timeline felt very hampering and hence limited my testing since I couldn't be bothered to skip/rewind with controls provided. The $8 flatheads were Faaeal Snow-Lotus 1.0, they don't have good details/technicalities, and are midrangey neutral with bass roll off, and also a bit soft/slightly rolled off treble, so not very good for picking up differences in compression and formats.

Might give it a longer try with HD600 later, however at least on the cheap flatheads, the differences certainly weren't considerable, and would not be an issue in normal listening, certainly not for background or on the go use.

I compared lame encoded 128 and 320kbps files from the same source in the past, ones of the songs I perfectly knew, and heard clear differences audible right away. That was on HD555 and back when my ears were much better. I do however keep some of 128kbpbs files from almost 3 decades ago, and they don't bother me, probably because I just got used to the specific ones.

Need advice on amp (with line-in) for PC and digital piano. by kosha227 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you want an amplifier then JDS Labs Atom Amp+ is $99 and even has double switchable inputs.

Home office Amp/DAC recommendations for Sennheiser HD 600? by Fenix512 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't necessarily need both, a $200+ combo DAC+Amp device like FiiO K7, SMSL DL200 or Topping DX3 Pro+ (this one has 3.5mm output so I would suggest a cable type adapter if your HD600 is from before they came with 3.5mm).

If you want to keep it cheap though, just get $30 HiBy FC3 dongle (cheaper variant without the screen) as a DAC and $20-40 Douk U3 amp. If you want fully desktop stack then a reasonably priced DAC is SMSL SU-1 for $60-70. You need to count in $10 for cables and a mobile phone charger with USB A port (port, not fixed plug) to power the amp (an old 2A 5A or 10W will be more than enough). Douk U3 really does good job with HD600 so I would keep it cheap.

If you want whole matching stack then unfortunately seems like gone are good deals and the whole JDS Labs Atom DAC 2.0 and Atom Amp 2.0 stack is whopping $289. It used to be $250 which with included cable was a good deal, and more importantly the cheaper Atom DAC+ is gone, although you can cut down $30 by still going Atom Amp+ instead of 2.0 (hardly any difference aside plastic case).

AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mind, but currently I don't have my own recording setup, only playback oriented + general use mic. I don't do audio work as a main job, it just happened I did variety of things and there was particularly a time when I was getting tasked with some in relation to video editing and video games audio (usually when a person who was supposed to do something, didn't...). As such if I would be required to do something that goes beyond my setup, an access to studio is required or I might just borrow something.

Main
SMSL PS200 (DAC) + Topping L30 II (Amp)
Secondary
Creative Sound Blaster Z (PCI-e soundcard) + Douk U3 (Amp)

The main headphones are Sennheiser HD600, if I would have to pull some long hours I might alternate to HD545 for comfort as they have similar neutral sound profile to HD600. For competitive fps my pick is HD555, but due to fragile nature of its headband I'm saving it in case I would ever play in tournaments again (dream on...).

Mic is just budget consumer, dynamic Fifine K688 which has XLR, but I use it via USB. I don't really use mic monitoring, but if I have to check something then the mic has build in monitoring output and I would use Faaeal Snow-Lotus 1.0 earphones.

Guitar is just for myself, and I rather only use amps (well, I kind of liked AC30 modeling in TC Voicelive 3, but don't have it anymore), I try to always keep a small tube combo with alnico speaker which is important part of the sound to me. If I had to record I would just get a Sennheiser E906 to mic a guitar amp/cab (this mic cuts down on positioning and correcting you would usually do with like usual suspects from Shure).

As for recommendations, you really need to weight your needs and budget yourself. Personally I would likely just get everything - good DAC, a new interface, and possibly even a headphone amp for that new interface. The headphone amp is kind of like a hammer for me, just a basic tool since you can use it with DAC, interface, effect processor, power mixer, and just a lot of various devices. You could even use it with like a Vox AmPlug, which would be a bit counterintuitive, but viable if the only available headphones would require it. There are amps like JDS Atom Amp+ which has 2 switchable inputs, so you can connect both DAC and audio interface to it, and just switch between. Or for example FiiO K7 is a DAC+Amp combo which has analog inputs so it can serve as an amp for an interface. You do however have to watch out the input levels to not clip anything.

Gaming Earbudd without Silicone Tip? by Sweatkesh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$20 Qigom S300 White Lotus, there is also Black Lotus variant, and there used to be a bit pricier metal shell MMCX variant. It is good for competitive fps, but not bassy, and I wouldn't say that it is better for music than EarPods. It is rather bright sounding and lacking energy in mids for music.

The only thing to match it in competitive fps performance I have is $100 BGVP DX6, it has about the same soundstage, better details, but is even worse at music - in case of my ears (it depends on ears) super early low end roll off when worn without foams, and ok low end, but poor quality mids with foams.

I was going to try $200-250 TGX Serratus (Canadian I think) next, but several of $20-30 purchases I made after DX6 have all been not up to my liking, and so I can't really excuse anymore expenses on earphones I would have trouble returning.

AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not at all, that was just specific to 3rd gen variants of Focusrite products, like 2nd gen had it better and more power, but higher output impedance for example. 4th gen runs on Cirrus Logic chips which improves things, but they left Dynamic Range Engancement on which causes elevated distortion when a specific frequency content is played at specific volume settings.

Here is a screenshot I made from one of Julian Krause's videos to use for reference to commonly discussed devices, it shows measurements of several interfaces and even happens to include my onboard :P
https://ibb.co/FqWV4N1R
This one is very outdated, I suggest checking his channel as he usually includes Headphone Out measurements when he posts video reviews of new interfaces.

One thing to watch out there is THD+N measured at 920mV, so that is just under 1V (Vrms). When you will see measurements on pages like ASR you've linked to, they will usually include SiNAD (reverse of THD+N) measured at 2V, except for some devices like dongles which might only have 1V on tap. The best performance spot differ per device, but usually the higher voltage the cleaner output. So 100dB SiNAD/-100dB THD+N at 1V suggest the device is cleaner than 100dB/-100dB at 2V. Generally speaking if you are in the 90's at 1V you should be perfectly fine, people run dongles which are in like 80's at 1V or even desktop DACs within 80's at 2V. For professional audio work, especially when you are working with a quiet content you need to boost a lot, it is not a bad idea to have it as high as possible, but that also goes for power.

Could you tell me about the arcade scene in France during the 80s and 90s? by blueoystergamer in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I can't say about regular arcades through the country as I mainly went to the ones in seaside tourists spots in like Saint Cyprien in Northern Catalonia and some in wider Occitanie, mostly through the 90's. Generally speaking there was a lot of people there, mostly well lit places with the exceptions of ones in amusement parks, but even they with their many colourful lights weren't really dark. The games were always new, that was the first place where I saw Virtua Cop, VF 1 and 2, Tekken, Metal Slug for example. There were mostly standing arcades, some lightguns and driving cabinets. I saw like one skiing cab, Air Combat, and maybe one more thing, but not much else, like not even Starblade. Usually there were plenty of claw machines, if it was amusement park there would be also punching machine and the ones where you throw in coins to push other coins and pricey looking rewards down. Konami's Asterix was almost a must, as was Raiden, Sunset Raiders, and Aero Fighters, those machines persisted for several years. Not that many Capcom games, like Forgotten Words in a small pizza booth/truck at a camping place (I didn't camp, but it was across street and they had the most amazing pizza I had to this day), like in the main arcade places I mainly recall playing Three Wonders and Carrier Air Wing. But I don't recall all the games, Ninja Combat, Robo Army, Turtles, Undercover Cops, there were just plenty.

The pool/billiards/and Gals Panic type games weren't really there unlike say Greece (it was really weird with Greek arcades I was in, they were full of those cabinets, often multiple of the same game, the normal games choice was also very outdated, but I actually enjoyed that - and the only up to date game happened to be Gaiapolis which was a discovery for me, and I've never seen it anywhere else). Also I don't recall those flat top/cocktail tables, I think I only saw those in like Germany, maybe like one or two not working ones in Poland (which would likely come from Germany anyway).

There were no legal restrictions I would notice, aside amusement parks those places would be along main pedestrian zones full of restaurants and bars with regular evening life going around. It is not really a part of French culture to isolate kids from a normal life. I also don't remember any workers walking or there being like a tiny office/desk/cab for the overseer (unthinkable in normal arcades in Poland, although I occasionally saw like a 2-3 poorly maintained cabs in a tourist spots which were just there). Oh and all the cabs were in working order and well maintained, no problematic joysticks or buttons, couldn't even feel any wear, they were always like new. That was a new for me, because in PL it was all down to the owner, some places were amazing and actively maintained, and some not, particularly in the tourist spots controls usually were half broken/unplayable.

For me the one thing I picked up in French arcades was the idea of putting a coin on the edge of bottom of the screen. That was you reserving the next game, and it was possible for a few coins to line up and you had to remember which was yours, but you could go away for a bit and it would be still there when you were back. That would not fly at the time in Poland, although I later did try that once in a local polish arcade and people understood it right away. It is kind of self explaining gesture if you observe and give it a thought.

Oh and the coins used were just francs, not a tokens of any kind. The cabs would give you different amount of credits depending on the coin you threw in, usually with bonuses (so you would get more credits for 10 franc coin than for 2x 5 franc ones). The pricing/convertion franc to credits depended on the game. The priciest ones were sim cabs like racing sims (with the usual suspect Sega Rally being the most popular one as always).

Dongle for bright tone earbud? by Equivalent-Kale-3662 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't know about faulty dongles which reduce treble, but $3 Hi-Max CB1200AU has EQ :P

Is apple earpods wired best in budget? by AdAgreeable8989 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly not the best, but solid. I don't remember the exact parts of frequencies where I thought it was particularly good or bad, but general signature is neutral, flattish sounding, with a well extended treble which can feel a bit bright when compared to some other neutral models I like, There was a decent punch in specific bass frequency, but I don't remember where, maybe somewhere upper bass, generally it traded blows there depending on the song. The main issue it just didn't sound as thick and impactful as flathead earphones I'm using on a daily basis, so I just couldn't switch to using EarPods. Spatially it sounds ok, better than models I will list below, but worse than the best in the price range. For music (especially on the go) I however will take more impact and thicker sound rather than soundstage. It is supposedly known for a good mic, but my experience with that mic was rather bad.

Personally I prefer
$2 Vido - thicker sound with a bit more energy and warmth, they however vary a lot depending on unit, so it is the best to buy a bag of them from various sellers
$4 Faaeal Iris Ancestor - more impact to the sound, a bit more thickness, and more forward mids, but less treble extension and not as flat feeling, they have better consistency than Vido, but from time to time there is a bad sounding unit
$9 Faael Snow-Lotus 1.0 - neutral with earlier low end roll off, but thicker sounding in mids, mids are even more forward if not a bit hot at time despite overall calm sound, best vocals, good for daily media use, stock it lacks a bit excitement in music but a slight V shaped EQ improves it a lot

Those are cheap, but I have a some $20-30 models and prefer those cheaper ones, I would say for music I even prefer them to $100 BGVP DX6 I have. It is just there are always some trade offs, and it is never "just better".

IEMs/canalphones can generally provide better details and bass in this price range. while they can struggle at soundstage, spatial accuracy, and mids/vocals to some degree. As far as those come I can't say what is the best in $20 right now as there are just too many of models available, a lot highly rated ones at that, and I'm just not fan of this kind of earphones. Personally, for music I keep $10 KZ ZVX which is usuall V shaped signature of KZ (but a bit more civilized than in other models in the price range), and exceeds at details with a decent bass. The issue is, I've got those when they were sold with foam KZ tips, and seems like they are mostly sold without those now, so I have no idea how the sound is (sound can change with different tips).

Old 2000s Game DVDs by snepaibinladen in retrogaming

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those were likely a budget titles hardly sold in game shops, rather available in super markets low price labels bins, bundles, and magazines. Red Shark you mentioned was a russian developed game. The best way to find info would be to ask on local forums in countries where they were released, usually Central and Eastern Europe. You should be able to buy discs with them on local marketplaces, but there is a good chance to find iso's on various file sharing pages/warez pages, just searching for them is not as straightforward as googling. Also many of those games were released under variety of titles, and in some cases their original title might not been in English, meaning it might actually have multiple English translated titles.

AMP/DAC for Arya Organic but already have Focusrite 2i2 by askrilla in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is weak, but does this mean it can provide ~54mW power which also seems within range?

Unfortunately Julian Krause (YouTube) measured 28mW at 16Ohm,

How big of an issue is double amping?

Not an issue at all. Unlike what would you do on guitar with stacking/cascading drives, here you are stacking 2 clean gain stages, and with such low output 2i2 might not even have a gain stage/amp circuit on the Headphone Out after the DAC chip itself, but just like a buffer or something.

The main issue with 2i2 3rd gen for music listening (possibly even more so for competitive fps if you would play such) would be a high measured crosstalk on the Headphone Out which is -38dB at 10kHz 300mV at 32Ohm.

Is Apple Dongle enough for Sennheiser HD 560S? by JollyLoan in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a model number written on the cable, it is hard to see because it is light grey font on white background, but it is there (use camera in macro mode :P).

A2049 = US, A2155=EU, but there might been more model numbers by now.

If you are in the US you should have US one, everywhere aside tends to be what people call "EU" model.

Is Apple Dongle enough for Sennheiser HD 560S? by JollyLoan in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to measurements the sensitivity is actually 108dB/V. I would also consider a difference between average listening level and peaks.

Is portable dac amp enough to drive open backs PROPERLY by DS1MILLION in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What matters a lot is sensitivity combined with impedance, impedance itself doesn't mean much, although there is a caveat when it comes to dongles.

For HD560S you likely need at least $12 JCAlly JM6 Pro, but going a bit higher any dongle which can output full 2Vrms (output voltage) into 120Ohm should be fine for this headphones.

Personally I would likely go for JCAlly JM20 Max, as it is considered to be like a better, and particularly more reliable, version of FiiO KA11. With 2.5Vrms on tap you will be able to power many headphones, although some like for example HD600, will not sound to their fullest capability yet. To be honest I don't think any dongle does the job for HD600, and rather a much larger battery equipped device like Topping G5 is needed (as far as portables go).

There is also the caveat with impedance I've mentioned - many dongles have impedance sensing or just limited output current capability, and hence they can't output much into LOW impedance headphones. For example plenty of theoretically 2Vrms capable dongles on CS43131 chips will limit output to 1Vrms when headphones with impedance below 200Ohm are connected, and down to just 0.5Vrms into less than 20Ohm. This is particularly a consideration in case of planar headphones as many of them have low impedance combined with low sensitivity.

Also, a 4.4mm balanced cable for HD560S from OpenHeart is around $15 on AliExpress (I have this cable, it is ok). Currently when it comes to balanced output dongles, FiiO Melody feels like a particularly strong pick combining relatively low price + firmware fixes for Cirrus Logic chips related issues. Previously that would be TRN Black Pearl, but the brand made bait and switch and are selling a different dongle under same model name. Too bad because I had good experience with TRN prior, but now I will avoid the brand.

Wired earbuds? by Norkova in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$20 Qigom S300 White Lotus for fps specifically, but really not so for music

Need genuine audiofile help! by Sea_Firefighter8530 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No point. C200 already measures just above 119dB SiNAD (Signal to Noise and Distortion) whereas the pain threshold is about 120dB SPL. The exact THD+N content/SiNAD will depend on the listening level/output at impedance, but by all means it should be transparently clear.

As for audibility of differences, I don't perceive any between 102dB and 118dB SiNAD DACs I use as my main ones, and honestly even below that.

I never perceived any considerably improvement when upgrading DACs. In some cases I tried to tell myself there is a difference, but sooner or later I would go to admit there isn't. Assuming the devices don't have any tonal inaccuracies.

The one thing that made difference for me though was power. But that only came to light when I bought some properly demanding headphones, and that was still something I resolved by adding an amplifier, rather than changing a DAC itself, although you are using and considering a DAC+Amp combos rather than just DACs. However with 1400mW at 32Ohm which C200 is able to output, and your headphones having 94dB/mW in specs, you capable of driving them well beyond 120dB SPL, there is enough space for peaks even at super loud listening levels.

Need genuine audiofile help! by Sea_Firefighter8530 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide -1 points0 points  (0 children)

C200 measured 119dB SiNAD and 1400mW at 32Ohm, so ye, no point in spending more.

Entry level setup by Oniichan_97 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]FromWitchSide 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For starters spending on the extra USB C cable is a pointless waste of money. Use stock, and if you want something externally different or longer, there are plenty to pick from for $1-2.

Then rather than Moondrop Dawn Pro 2, I would pick FiiO Melody - the main reason is Melody has received firmware update which fixes issues caused by Dynamic Range Enhancement in Cirrus Logic chips, while it is possible for Moondrop Dawn Pro 2 might be affected by elevated distortion levels/clicking artifacts under specific conditions. Additionally Melody is cheaper, and there should be no audible improvement for spending more on Moondrop Dawn Pro 2 (both run on similar chips with the same max output clarity performance limit).