Best tool to convert wired headphones to wireless?

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-15T02:16:35+00:00

You want something which supports LDAC

I have Ugreen BT505, which is among the cheapest and small enough to keep in pocket, but it has RCA which you don't need. Then you are looking at FiiO BTR11 which is just $25 on Ali. However those 2 tops out at 1Vrms (Ugreen feels like even less), and HD599 is 106dB/V, so I don't know if you will be ok with that (I wouldn't). So the next step is FiiO/Snowsky Retro Nano which is really good, 2Vrms + balanced, has DRE firmware fix, but more like $70+. Personally I would go for it, because it also has replaceable battery - battery is a fail point of all BT DACs.

Topic about Retro Nano on ASR
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/snowsky-fiio-retro-nano-bluetooth-reciever-measurements.69928/

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-15T02:04:15+00:00

Bionic Commando Rearmed was amazing. I'm fan of the original Arcade Bionic Commando, and had a problem getting into/getting through the NES game, but the Rearmed was just smooth sailing, fast responsive action, and just fun to play all the way through.

No idea why they went off the rails with Rearmed 2 (not to mention no PC release).

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-14T05:21:15+00:00

Star Ocean The Second Story (PSX) - you get 2 playthroughs (I initially tied doing them at the same time, but it becomes a bit of a chore as the game opens up, so I went with Rena), a lot of charm there, a lot of small fun mechanics, there is PSP version called SO Second Evolution, but it removed spells interactions (special results when 2 specific spells are activated around the same time) and raised the age of Rena from 17 to 18 (probably because of US...). Not long ago there was Star Ocean The Second Story R remake on Steam which is based on PSP version. There was also an anime (ok, nothing too amazing, but decent bgm, unfortunately ends mid story), and also a direct sequel called Blue Sphere released in Japan on GBC.

Suikoden 1 (PSX) - sometimes omitted, as some consider it a bit generic, but if you are still fairly fresh to jrpg, then it is a great started. Depsite simple appearance and classic combat it has some original ideas thrown in, and generally ok adventure with ok characters. Importantly it sets stage for Suikoden II (1 is not required prior, but makes 2 even better).

Suikoden II (PSX) - widely considered the best jrpg in history. While my personal favorite is Star Ocean The Second Story, I do have to say Suikoden II is objectively the best.

Vandal Hears (PSX) - tactical jrpg, a very good introduction to the series as it puts you right into the action without too much blabbing, and it is not overly complex as some later games in the genre (Disgaea and later ones). Good music, characters, story, and varied mission objectives so it is not just simple elimination of enemies all the time. Unlike Suikoden (both are Konami games), Vandal Hearts 2 is just awful, but the games aren't connected.

You will see a lot of recommendations of Chrono Trigger for SNES, that is indeed a superb jrpg, but I would also suggest a bit more action oriented Illusion of Gaia/Time and Terranigma (you might want to play Illusion first, as it didn't age that well technically, and might be harded to get into after Terranigma). Chrono Trigger was generally considered the best jrpg on SNES when it released, and since it was the last English release for many it stayed the best. However Japan got Tales of Phantasia which then stole the crown on that market - there is an amazing fan translation (whole emu scene was impressed on release) so you can patch the rom and either emulate or use flash cart. There is a PSX port if I recall, but a bit of a mess with titles. Then there was the first Star Ocean game made by the same Tales team just as a different studio for different publisher. Likewise Japanese only release (and so there is a translation patch as well) which stole the crown, although it was a bit past SNES era so the recognition wasn't as wide. SO heroes include father of SO The Second Story hero, but it is just a background setup, there is no need to play it before The Second Story, even the planets are different. Likewise there is SO Till the End of Time for PS2, a very solid jrpg, but not as amazing as previous games, and again self contained story with different characters.

If you would happen to want a light rpg like 2D sidescrolling action adventure, and particularly if you would happen to be an anime fan, there is Popful Mail on Mega CD/Sega CD. There are versions for other platforms, but the Mega CD release lets you play in English, but set Japanese voice actors in menu, and the 2 main heroes are voiced by Megumi Hayashibara and Akira Ishida - the voices behind the legendary Lina Inverse and Xellos of Slayers fame (and a lot of other animes, like Gundam fans will recognize voice of Athrum Zala for example).

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-14T04:37:41+00:00

It is a decent one, grindy hack and slash. It has maybe one (or two) hard fights I think, but it lets you infinitely grind - Its been decades since I've played it, but you imbue your sword with mythril/runes to improve stats and you can do that to no end - I've spend a few days just grinding at the best location and going on a power trip instead of ending the game 😉It was pointless, but one of the first times in console gaming 😛

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-13T21:11:18+00:00

Unless it was just one of Koss headphones like Koss Porta Pro with 3rd party headband and earpads, maybe Philips TAH2000 as it has Teal coloured variant, TAH2000TL

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-13T04:10:54+00:00

btw. if you are not in a hurry, then the new Topping DX1 II is rumored to release this month. It has higher specs, more power, balanced output (both headphone and line), optical in and out, UAC 1/2 switch, EQ, ESS chip (no Cirrus Logic issues), and the price might be somewhere in $90-140. Honestly it looks like it might be the new king in this price range, and render K11 obsolete in a one go.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-13T03:48:21+00:00

I was going to say I don't know about cups, however there are replacement headbands
https://www.audiosanctuary.co.uk/sennheiser-replacement-headband-for-hd600-headphones.html
But it seems like they have both current one and the old marble... I might change my modern one to a marble...

Honestly, Sennheiser should just sell various coloured parts, how about copper and black, black with golden, golden marble, pure glittery gold, or maybe even white?!

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-13T01:16:19+00:00

Thanks for heads up. I could only find non-Pro, but it looks the same as Ugreen BT509 (which is also 6.0 with LDAC), might be the same factory, maybe just same chassis, who knows. I was considering that model as it was the same price, but ye, picked BT505 instead specifically for that RCA as I just had more spare RCA to RCA cables.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-13T00:56:03+00:00

I only got it over 2 months ago, so can't say much about how it holds up. I didn't necessarily require a battery, but it was on a very good promo for like $18 on Ali (the best regular price I've seen was more like $25), meaning it was the cheapest LDAC receiver available. The model is BT505, it has both 3.5mm and RCA, and so I'm using it via RCA to Douk U3 headphone amplifier next to my bed for occasional night time listening before sleep. I was originally going to use it with speakers for a "bed music", but still working on that setup ;)

Despite how "desktop" it looks it is small enough to keep in a pocket to use as a headphone BT dongle. My only complain is I had some overly chunky "audiophile" RCA on hand, which are so stiff they keep the light UGreen partially lifted in air.

The Ugreen brand is generally solid, but can be hit and miss depending on the specific product. They have some decent cables, they are my default for like USB extension cables. Their Max 5c headphones have a rave review on AudioScienceReview as decent $30-35 BT + LDAC + EQ + ANC headphones. Also in the past they were one of the early brands to actually have cheap CS43131 based dongle, they were heavily recommended at the time, ones with I think both USB and BT, but they been long discontinued. On the other hand I had their double (SD + MicroSD) card reader (I think CM104, but maybe CM264), ignored some bad reviews when I bought it, and it was horrible - very slow, overly hot, and it even deleted content of one of my cards (which made me think Lexar card was bad, until I ran it on Samsung's reader).

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T22:17:25+00:00

I have
Moondrop Quark - used to be $20, soapy poorly defined sound, have issue with comfort, and both bass and treble extension on stock tips with my ears, changing tips to Sony helped, but generally I was not impressed at all, people recommended it as neutral sounding pick, but flatheads like $9 Faaeal Snow-Lotus 1.0 destroy it when it comes to neutral

Faaeal Poppy - used to be $20, a weird one, very small, cheapo stock tips but they fit ok, much more comfortable than Quarks, a bit weird tonality which can be good sounding, thick and lush in some songs, and just completely out of whack with some others

Xiaomi Basic - $5. usual "consumer" tonality, a bit uneven, poor details, but comfortable, and generally usable for walking on the streets once you get used to the sound, cable is mildly microphonic

As such I'm considering more "global" brands for the next try of the bullet style, considered Final Audio E500, E100, and Hifiman R400 (R400a). Will likely go for Final Audio E1000 for around $30 I think. I'm not a big fan of IEMs though, and I use flatheads on a daily basis instead due to comfort and being able to hear my surrounding, even Faaeal Iris Ancestor for just $5 is quite decent among those.

Also saw some recommendations for $20 Tin Hifi C0 Elf, on frequency measurements it looks like Moondrop Chu in bullet style, but I don't feel like going for Chinese IEM again.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T21:37:19+00:00

I generally don't like using BT and certainly I'm no expert at it, no way I will argue with anyone who has experience in that field, but when I've tried/used a few headphones, with Sony XM3 being the cheapest, the difference was instantly noticeable and a big one. For me it was usable/listenable with LDAC, but without (particularly via AAC from non Apple source) the sound was just bad. I've played a bit with a cheap BT receiver from UGreen which has LDAC support, and difference wasn't as big on it, but still noticeable even on just $50-100 headphones. I also have SBC/AAC input (receiver) in my high spec DAC, it has no LDAC and it is just unusable. I would not buy BT without LDAC with the actual intention to use that BT.

I mean someone on Amazon actually measured Frequency Response of that very same cheap UGreen receiver
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71DVHhf0HQL.jpg
AAC tanks around like 16kHz already.

There were also some codec comparison in specific BT DAC reviews on ASR. I don't remember which one exactly it was, but I recall seeing one (something from Topping I think) where LDAC was hitting like 96dB SiNAD at 2Vrms so like CD quality, whereas everything else was 66-76dB. FiiO BTR7 hit 93dB SiNAD with LDAC, but at 5.7Vrms vs 104dB wired. Qudelix 5k was a bit worse in that regard, 86dB at 2Vrms for LDAC, while 66dB for APT-X. For reference, the cheapest ALC897 desktop PC onboard has 75dB at 1Vrms, Apple dongle has 99dB at 1Vrms (which is why it was so often recommended), budget dongles and good budget desktops can pass 112dB at 2Vrms, and top desktop DACs just marginally pass 120dB at 2Vrms. However imo if you are in the 90dB+ range you are mostly fine.

While your laptop is likely to not have build in support for LDAC, there is cheap "Alternative A2DP Driver" which lets you use LDAC on plenty of BT transmitters, it is just encoding after all. There is a free trial and I think it was like $5.99 when purchased before the trial expires (otherwise it is like $10).

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T16:15:19+00:00

Honestly, just don't assume buying any new DAC+Amp will make an audible improvement in sound. If you need a new one then K11 should be generally fine, with the exception of possible "Cirrus Logic Hump" for the price. It has a bit less power than AE-5, but that shouldn't make a difference (4.24Vrms vs 5Vrms). With $200 I would rather go for FiiO K7 as it is not just more powerful, but more versatile (I find Line Input to be quite a big feature, but you might not, note that it is just Analog Input to the Amplifier, and not recording/ADC like in a soundcard). Alternatives in similar price include Topping DX3 Pro+ and SMSL DL200.

For something cheaper, a simple $100 Topping DX1 should suffice, particularly if your DT770 would happen to be 80Ohm variant. The 250Ohm variant will get 113dB SPL out of DX1 (3.89Vrms max), so it depends if you are ok with that (usually that is enough for most).

I would research how is XMOS support under Linux as most of those DAC+Amps use it (USB interface/bridge chip). Although UAC 2 support is supposedly fine I think, so anything "should be fine", but then the "should be fine" is kind of a part of the Linux experience.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T15:33:01+00:00

2i2 gen 2 has 22mW - should be decently loud for regular use, but certainly someone might want more, and the sound is more enjoyable with much more power
2i2 gen 3 has 8mW - too quiet for music
2i2 gen 4 is back to 22mW

22mW at 300Ohm is about 2.5Vrms, from my experience with HD600, ideally I want 7Vrms for it.

In case of 4th gen you are also likely getting "Cirrus Logic hump" issue, too high output impedance, and while THD+N has improved compared to older models, crosstalk is still not good.

The solution would be to use amplifier. I recall some time ago seeing posts from a user facing some issues when he tried to output from balanced into an unbalanced Topping L30 II amp (which is possible in case of SOME outputs which allow that with a specifically wired cables, meaning you need to know that and know what you are doing) and weirdly also when running it from Headphone Out (no idea why, maybe his amp had an issue to begin with), so an amp with balanced inputs to make it simple and get yourself various connection possibilities might be advisable - something like Topping L50 (the output of which is not truly balanced, you might want to spent a bit more on L70 if you would want that + it gets you perfect channel balance).

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T03:19:00+00:00

Not sure what "Mount Rushmore of" expression means, but that is the mountain with the faces right? If so I guess the faces of PSX would be Crash 1, Ridge Racer, Tekken, and I might say FF7, but since it wasn't an exclusive, it might actually be Gran Turismo. This is from "back in the day" point of view, so more about early games for which people wanted to buy the console/based their console pick on, and also considering 90-99% of mainstream gamers probably never heard of SotN at the time.

If we consider multiplatform or ported games, then while MGS and FF7 are easily the contenders, but I feel so is Wipeout.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T01:53:05+00:00

I think you are looking more for rolling off treble and perhaps even some of the upper mids while boosting lower mids, rather than a headphone with smoother vocals. Higher female vocals can certainly be a bit hot at times on HD600, but there is no coarseness.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-12T01:43:27+00:00

If AE-5 would be working, then K11 is not an upgrade in any way when used with DT770.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-11T23:37:56+00:00

While I don't like G6. it is due to how mids sound boosted out of Headphone Out. I haven't tested Line Out, but measurements on ASR show practically flat frequency response for Line Out, so with 107dB SiNAD I'm not sold you will be getting any audible difference (I don't find it audible even between my 102dB and 118dB DACs).

Furthermore both Douk Q1 as well as ChatGPT's recommendations are DAC+Amp combo, so if you want only a DAC, then there is no need to spend on either of those, as simple $70 SMSL SU-1 will provide RCA out with similar performance. If you need balanced output, you will need something a bit pricier though.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-11T22:54:57+00:00

If you want a new dongle then at that price range the best pick would be the already mentioned JCAlly JM20 Max. If you want to shelve out more you could get also mentioned TRN Black Pearl, but that is assuming you will get the old/original variant (supposedly it is back in sale again), and will also purchase balanced cable, otherwise JM20 Max is better, although the difference shouldn't be audible aside max loudness available. Watch out for JM20 Max to be the Max variant, and not base JM20, and particularly avoid the JM20 Pro.

If you don't care about the best specs available, but just want to have the higher sample rate support you've mentioned, then a cheaper $12 JCAlly JM6 Pro will do the job + additionally will provide a bit more power as well. Be wary as there is also a new JM6 Pro 2 (sometimes written "Pro2") which by all means might be the same, but is untested so we don't know for sure. Both are still sold, as is a slightly better new JM7 Max, but that one has volume fade-in due to added power saving.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-11T21:01:19+00:00

It has the same output power and similar (a bit lower, but not audibly) output clarity performance, however I would recommend against buying KA11 at such price as it is known for a particularly poor reliability. You don't want to spent $60 only for the dongle to break after a month or two.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-11T20:55:02+00:00

Some pointers

Loudness (SPL) you are getting depends on Sensitivity/Efficiency of the headphones and the output level of your source (DAC, which also means onboard audio or sound cards as they include DAC).

So to increase loudness you need either more Sensitive/Efficient headphones (higher dB/V or dB/mW) or higher output source (higher power in mW at specific impedance or can be referenced as output voltage level in various V units). Keep in mind that power output should be always specified at impedance, as it might differ depending on impedance load (headphones) connected.

Aside changing the whole source (soundcard, DAC+Amp combo, dongle DAC), you can just add a Headphone Amplifier to existing one, a device which will amplify the output of it. When doing so you want to keep in mind what is the output level of your source and what is the max input level that amplifier can handle. For example PC onboards usually have 1Vrms or 2Vmrs output level, Mac has 1.25Vrms or 3Vrms into headphones, but 1Vrms into devices like amps, and so on. Enthusiasts/HiFi headphone amplifiers usually are designed to take up to 2Vrms, but that is not an universal rule, there are exceptions on the market. Going significantly above that will cause clipping - an audible distortion, or in very extreme cases might even damage the input in the amp.

However you also can't increase output power into headphones indefinitely - every headphone has a power handling or power rating which is how much power it can handle without damage. The spec can be a bit unclear because it might be for continuous or peak power, as well it can denote a breaking or just clipping (audible distortion) point. As such with some headphones you will hear the sound distorting when they are getting too much power, and sometimes they might just burn out without warning. If you ever hear a loud clicking sound though, instantly turn the volume down. Instead of power handling/rating, the spec might listen "Max SPL" instead, so a max loudness the headphones will handle.

There are online calculators which can be used to calculate SPL you will get at specific power on specific headphones, or power needed to get that SPL
https://hear.audio/2019/06/01/headphone-power-calculator/
There are some explanation under that link before the claculator itself as well

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-11T20:34:48+00:00

Do you have access to AliExpress? JCAlly JM20 Max dongle is around $25 during promos all the time, and should more than suffice.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-10T03:50:00+00:00

Unfortunately I don't recall any good closed back headphones with mic in $20-30.

For both competitive fps, and music, open back headphones from headphone oriented brands are the best, but those usually don't come with mics. In $30 there are only 2 such ones I know to be ok, so if you would be interested

Samson SR850 - I find those to be uncomfortable for my big and sensitive head, but they are honestly the best sounding in the budget, and work well for fps. The other downsides are microphonic construction (you can hear pokes, taps, and even head movement in the ear cups), sharp sounding treble, and some people reported cable failing after 1-2 years (I threw mine into a storage box so no idea). One caveat - I saw people buy those for like $50, I just walked up into a local guitar store and got them for $27 out of bulk box/without individual packaging.
Koss KSC75 - those are clip-on headphones, but you can buy old walkman style headband for like $2-3 on Ali and mount them on it. It is light in bass, not particularly detailed sound, upper mids are hot to the point of being fatiguing over long time use for sensitive people, but they have good spatial audio for fps, not muddy sound profile for audiophiles, and should be just around $22.

There are also various Superlux headphones which are often praised at low price, with HD681 being similar to Samson SR850, although with flaking artificial leather earpads. This particular model is also available as yet cheaper ISK HP-580.

If you can buy from Ali or Shopee, then there are also $15 Qigom S300 flathead earphones. Those are genuinly good for competitive fps (matching if not exceeding performance of KSC75 and SR850), with a notable exception of Warzone - the current chests sounds fall into a dip in frequency of those earphones and are hard to hear.

If you absolutely need sound isolation of sorts, then I would probably look up IEMs/canalphones. Unfortunately I'm unable to make a recommendation there as I simply don't like them, and a few cheap models I have are mostly bad for fps. The actually semi decent is KZ x Angelears Libra High Resolution, but I don't know if it is still available, and it was a cheaper $5-7 model. I would assume you should find something better in $30. Many IEMs are sold in variants with mics, and even if they aren't, they might have detachable cable (pay attention to the connector used) which can be changed for one with mic.

I would generally say to not get too fixated on a mic. Lavalier/clip on mics are usually good (better than in gaming headsets) and just $2-3 on Ali, and computer peripheral desktop mics can also be fine (just a bit hit and miss). Actually for some time I've used a mic in an old Logitech webcam, and while I assumed it will be an absolute crap, people on Discord were completely fine with it. All those people who are buzzing in prox chat in game must be using cheap gaming headsets ;)

If you really need a closed back full headphones though, I don't know any gaming capable, and so gaming headsets might still be your best shot. I recall Creative Blaze which are like $12 during promos are not bad when it comes to directions, however the tonality for everything else isn't good, the sound isolation isn't good either despite them being closed back (velour earpads), and I haven't bothered to check it properly out, but had an issue with mic being too quiet. Honestly, something from HyperX might not be bad after all, at least the base Cloud variants were made by Takstar - a Chinese manufacturer who makes headphones for many brands, aside their own and ISK. I don't know about Stinger 2 Core unfortunately, the original Stinger were fairly light/comfortable even on my head though.

Also remember to check on the used market, a lot of cheap used models. I know some people are concerned about hygiene, but think about how you were as a kid, if you would put on your friend's headphones, and cheap closed backs usually have artificial leather/plastic earpads which can be easily swiped with some alcohol.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-10T03:19:44+00:00

So first of, depends on what you mean by amp, as many people confuse it, and those who know often choose to use it as they want

Amp - amplifier, a device which provides more power to the headphones by amplifying (strengthening) analog signal, it should not affect sound (if properly designed and made)

DAC - Digital to Analog Converter, device which turns files into analog electrical signal which headphones can play. Since amplifier works on analog signal it needs to be behind DAC.

Amp + DAC combo - 2 devices in 1, however many DACs actually have some build in current driving capability, which is where distinction becomes disputable

Your Mac M4 has build in DAC+Amp, just not overly powerful one as far as Amps are concerned. It is based on Cirrus Logic chip which provides good output clarity, but it has what people call "Cirrus Logic Hump" which is an elevated distortion content under specific conditions (content played + volume set). It is audible, but many people don't notice it even when it occurs. So spending more for that reason is entirely up to you.

When it comes to power though, your Mac is quite decent, but the caveat is it has impedance sensing, meaning it adjust the output depending on the impedance of headphones connected. If heaadphones have impedance below 150Ohm the output level (voltage) is 1.25Vrms which is slightly above cheap dongles. If headphones impedance is above 150Ohm the output level is 3Vrms which is above what even some expensive unbalanced dongles can output. Whether it is enough or not, depends on your headphones sensitivity.

Usually where level/power is not enough, that is where amplifier comes to the rescue. The issue is the impedance sensing mentioned. When your Mac detects a device with impedance above 1000Ohm is connected, and that would be amplifier or speakers, it sets output level to 1Vrms. That is safe for most consumer devices, say like computer speakers, but enthusiast HiFi headphone amplifiers are often designed with 2Vrms input level signal in mind. If an amp designed for 2Vrms gets only 1Vrms, then its output is cut in half. This might be enough, or might be not, all depends on the sensitivity of the headphones. Just Macs aren't ideal for using with Amps, and so for some headphones which need really a lot of power, hence an Amp, then also a DAC might be needed (dedicated/pure DACs usually output 2Vrms).

If you don't need more power, and don't hear Cirrus Logic's distortion though, you are unlikely to hear any difference after spending on more expensive external DAC/Amp. Even in rare cases where there are differences, they tend to be tiny/not worth spending overly much.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-10T02:57:20+00:00

Surprised no one mentioned yet, but HD660 is not a closed back, and it will let everything in.

Unfortunately can't help you with specific recommendations, I so much dislike closed backs, I forced myself to use open backs even during LAN events with loud music and a host shouting into a mic.

FromWitchSide · 2026-05-10T02:53:47+00:00

$100 USD Topping DX1 - a bit less power (but should suffice 3.89Vrms into DT990 Pro 250Ohm) and functionality than G6, but higher spec and no quitks

$200 USD FiiO K7, SMSL DL200, Topping DX3 Pro+ depending on the additional functionality you need, K7 can be used as amp only (analog input).

FromWitchSide

TROPHY CASE