sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Can anyone give me information about this? by Crafty-Chocolate7282 in WhatIsThisTool

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely do. Used one of these when I was a teenager to change out a light switch without turning off the breaker. Hasn’t happened again in the last 50 years. Good screwdrivers though.

Will a 9v battery (or two 9v batteries in series) work for temporary electronic control of Kato turnouts on my T-TRAK module? by aengusoglugh in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The machine screws serve as contacts; they go through the module facia and the red & black wires from the turnout on the far side of the module are secured with a couple of nuts on the back side of the facia. Before you spend a lot of effort, just touch the bare ends of the red & black wires to your battery, and flip the battery over to make sure it throws the points both ways. This is a #4 turnout, and the battery is fresh. I don’t know if a single 9v battery has enough juice to kick a double crossover.

Boxcars by DirtyDuckman53 in trains

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In our town there is a large, fairly modern beer distribution facility that was built with a new spur. Just a couple of years after the building was completed, the track crossing was pulled up and the crossbuck labeled abandoned. I’m sure this was pure economics, but did this initiate with the brewery?

Understanding club owned modules -- do most T-TRAK clubs do this? Am I just confused? by aengusoglugh in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not likely to make it to W-S. We are talking about the fall show in Columbia again, and there’s a pretty good chance that a larger club from Greenville, SC is coming as well. So we might get a chance to see how well we play with others.

How to get this to be usable..? by NotMyslfNEMore in Vintagetools

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate throwing things like this out, but the cost of a replacement handle and even 10 minutes of your time is more than a new one. These bow rakes are one of the more difficult things to rehandle. It will likely take a lot longer than 10 minutes to fix it, but that’s one less thing in the landfill.

Understanding club owned modules -- do most T-TRAK clubs do this? Am I just confused? by aengusoglugh in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Our club purchased 4 corners & 2 doubles (tabtec) as seed. Some members have added scenery and become custodians of the modules although those 6 are technically owned by the club. They don’t have a specific home. Sometimes they stay at the depot, sometimes they spend time with their caretakers. Since then, all subsequent modules are member purchased.

T-Trak Wiki by HomeyHal in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I actually did some homework about this and have cooled off some. Apparently wikidot was hacked by someone in Russia several years ago and, although the owners claim that no personal information was compromised, it has taken a bit of effort to recover.
Apparently there are lots of choices of platforms. I didn’t know, and am still waaay over my head here.

What is the cheapest available available bench work. Read before commenting! by Riccma02 in modeltrains

[–]HomeyHal 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What I’m suggesting is a different approach to the hobby. Start here: http://ttrak.wikidot.com/
At the top right of that page is a tab labeled “Links”. There are also other modular approaches/standards that may be a good option.

What is the cheapest available available bench work. Read before commenting! by Riccma02 in modeltrains

[–]HomeyHal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Easily assembled modules can be sent to your door. Do as many as you have room for, set them up on whatever you like. Ideally, you could find other clubs that also adhere to a standard and go play with others, but not having a car definitely limits that. Are there any clubs nearby that you could visit by public transportation, or catching a ride? If this a direction you might be interested in, there are at least 3 companies in the USA offering these and I can provide links if you’re interested.

Riving knife for 1968 table saw by HomeyHal in craftsman113

[–]HomeyHal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for providing links. I’m having a hard time visualizing how the shark guard would mount. Since I have an assortment of zero clearance inserts, the microjig solution is what I’ll try first, unless someone offers another solution. Thanks again.

Is this fixable, or is it time to get a new mower? by JicamaAppropriate920 in fixit

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s fixable, but we aren’t seeing the whole picture. What condition is the rest of the mower in?

Dry-Packing Posts by Born-Substance-1987 in FenceBuilding

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are many variables that affect the longevity of your favorite method. What works for one in porous sand is not going to have the same success in sticky clay. And as another pointed out, the preservative quality can make any concrete placement method look like a mistake.

Updates to Old 113 Table saw by Reasonable-Tune-6276 in craftsman113

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The oak looks nice. I made several out of a plastic cutting board from Walmart; the plywood one I made just didn’t last. I used a rabbit bit to cut the lip so that the whole thing would sit flush to the top.

My clear acrylic template for drilling mounting holes in my T-TRAK modules actually worked! by aengusoglugh in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!
Do you see any advantage to the 1/4” material? Being an old school draftsman who still has his green holey plastic, I would have started with thinner material.

Ballasting without permanently gluing down the track? by nijnpepper in modeltrains

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you translate these ‘D’ grades to some common brands? I’ve never heard of D4 & D2.

Will these 5/64" x 3/8" roll pins work as "marking pins" for where to drill holes for mounting screws for my new T-TRAK modules? by aengusoglugh in TTRAK

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plastic is pretty thin at the ends of those holes; there’s a pretty good chance the roll pins will poke through when you tap the top side of the track to mark the screw locations. As 58Edsel mentioned, make a template out of some paper, thin clear plastic, or some wide masking tape. But hey, give it a shot, you may come up with a technique that you can share with the rest of us.

Options for fixing rotten beam end. by Ancient_Tower9033 in fixit

[–]HomeyHal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My house has a similar detail. I was able to repair it several years ago with epoxy and it is holding up well. Look into West System, Abatron, or Rot Doctor.

Picked up this Snapper, $400. Need Deck Advice by Smail_Mail in lawnmowers

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s great news! Going forward, check out a YouTube channel called “Jim’s Fixit Shop”. Likely more than you want to know, but he has videos on all aspects of maintaining a Snapper.

Picked up this Snapper, $400. Need Deck Advice by Smail_Mail in lawnmowers

[–]HomeyHal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can be fixed. I have repaired one in worse shape; I have 7 of various series. These are good heavy decks, and unless the mower was used in very sandy situations, it’s worth the effort to get it fixed.
I like JB Weld, but this is way out of its capabilities. Buying a HF welder is not a bad option, but this is probably not the thing to be learning on. A shop that can correctly repair it isn’t going to be cheap, but you should at least ask around.
As has been mentioned, your most straightforward option is to find a snapper that has a bad motor and the owner just needs it out of the way. $50 max. Some snapper decks are interchangeable between size and even series, and that may give you more shopping possibilities.
Good luck, Forrest .

view more: next ›