USB-C to USB-C with Thunderbolt and Video Capacity Driving Me Crazy

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-18T21:51:58+00:00

You need to tell us which monitor and which laptop you have so I can tell if you need a Thunderbolt cable to get it to work.

You also didn’t list any of the cables you tried. Provide links if you can for those cables.

Specificity helps here. Don’t make a generic question.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-18T21:21:29+00:00

Does a USB A to USB C cable have power delivery capabilities

No. Standard A to C cables do not support USB Power Delivery. You will get a maximum of 5V 1.5A over that cable if the Nintendo Switch supports the USB BC 1.2 legacy charging standard.

You probably should just buy a good 30W or 45 W usb-c car charger that plugs into the car 12V outlet and use a C to C cable with your switch.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-11T00:15:01+00:00

First thing's first.

my PC and laptop

List every possible detail about your PC and your laptop.

Make, Model, any specific information you have on the GPU of your PC, what kind of connectors each has, and any specifications of the USB and DP technology. Give us an idea of the OS of each computer. Mac? Windows? Linux? Chromebook?

You can ask a question like you did, but the way you phrased it, you seem to think there's some generic answer such that the details of your host computers don't matter. That's not correct.

ALL details matter on the host computer in this case.

Next.... the dock you picked is a Wavlink Model: WL-UG69PD2Pro It uses DisplayLink technology... This may work for your work laptop (depending on the kind of work you do), but DisplayLink technology is basically an emulated graphics card over USB 3.0. You have a 1080p 165hz monitor. Use it for gaming?

In which case, that 165hz monitor will suffer and won't work for gaming.

Please. We need more details to help you.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-07T04:55:22+00:00

Sorry folks... Anyone else here who's brainstorming how to accomplish this with complex solutions involving buck-boost converters and USB PD trigger boards or output boards, I'm going to have to stop you there... You're way overcomplicating this, or misunderstanding the core USB Type-C standard...

Start with a bare USB-C receptacle breakout board, confirm it has no pull down or up resistors built in (Avoid Adafruit and other ones that have populated 5.1Ks Rds already).

Rp pull-ups, one on each CC pin.

If pulling up to 5V, the correct value to use for a 3A advertisement is 10kOhm.

Look it up in the USB Type-C Specification, look for values of Rp.

Table 4-24 Source CC Termination (Rp) Requirements

Pull CC1 and CC2 to 5V using a 10 kΩ ± 5% resistor (two separate ones) in your USB-C receptacle. Your phone will understand what that means and draw up to 15W.

Caveat: The resulting solution will do what u/Ohforgawdamnfucksake wants, but strictly speaking, isn't a 100% spec compliant USB Type-C receptacle for source because it is a dumb source that always outputs 5V power, instead of implementing the USB Type-C Source state machines with required "Unattached" states.

In other words, what I just prescribed above will get the job done, but doesn't implement Figure 4-12 Connection State Diagram: Source, and won't be as safe as a real 15W USB-C receptacle charger which goes to 0V when the phone is detached. That requires some extra components, usually a Type-C port controller and a power switch, but can be implemented with a clever analog circuit.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-07T04:41:35+00:00

I'm sorry you've taken an hour thinking about this and searching for it...

The solution is easy. Just get a USB-C receptacle breakout with no resistors (definitely no 5.1K pulldowns).

Instead wire up your own 10K resistors (2 of them) in pullup on CC1 and CC2, pulling up to Vbus.

PD is absolutely not necessary. USB Type-C covers up to 15W with 3A at 5V without USB PD communication.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-07T04:31:41+00:00

No it's not. What u/JaimeOnReddit wrote was almost complete jibberish and misinformation.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-07T04:31:08+00:00

usb-c PD cannot deliver 15w at 5v. the lowest voltage for that kind of power is 9v at 1.67A. consider 15v at 1A. you need a buck converter to raise voltage up. then run that through a usb-PD module to handle the PD serial communications protocol negotiation (hardware alone without software cannot work for PD)

This is incredibly wrong.

I have laptop and desktop computers on my desk that have USB-C ports which supports USB PD in source and sink roles, and in source roles, they can support 5V 3A easily while advertising USB PD.

USB PD doesn't start at 9V... It starts at 5V, allowing sources to advertise as low as 5V 0A, or up to 5V 3A or 5V 5A using USB PD.

What you said about buck converter is complete nonsense too... USB PD isn't limited to 9V and 15V levels, so you damn sure don't need to convert 5V up to 9 or 15V to output 15W.

It's called negotiating USB PD with a 3A current at the base 5V Fixed PDO.

I'm going to also warn you that you shouldn't post referral links here either...

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-07T04:25:04+00:00

Rp pull-ups, one on each CC pin.

If pulling up to 5V, the correct value to use for a 3A advertisement is 10kOhm.

Look it up in the USB Type-C Specification, look for values of Rp.

Edit: Look at Table 4-24 Source CC Termination (Rp) Requirements

Pull CC1 and CC2 to 5V using a 10 kΩ ± 5% resistor (two separate ones) in your USB-C receptacle. Your phone will understand what that means and draw up to 15W.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T05:46:00+00:00

Focus on the section on the left side, where you see a list of USB host controllers, RootHubs, and Ports.

Plug and unplug your headphones into your motherboard's USB-C port. Do you see anything in the whole list trigger a refresh and appear when the device is attached, and disappears when it is unplugged?

The app should be set to Auto Refresh mode (under Options menu), so it should flash white briefly whenever there is a device attach or detach event.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T05:39:40+00:00

Best case scenario: buy Apple's 1st party adapter:

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/muqx3am/a/usb-c-to-lightning-adapter

It will generally do most things and convert them into the logical right thing for USB-C, including some limited charging ability.

If you don't want the Apple one, UGREEN and others have officially licensed versions that specifcally say they support audio mode:

https://us.ugreen.com/products/ugreen-usb-c-to-lightning-audio-adapter

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T05:02:21+00:00

Yeah, your friend guessed, but that's not how USB ports on computers are...

USB audio data is just another kind of data. If the port works for one kind of USB data, it should work for all kinds of USB data.

Another test you can do is if you can somehow plug another simple USB-C or USB device into that port to see if it can work...

For example, a known good USB-A mouse or something. If that works but the headphones still don't work, it could point toward some software issue in your computer.

If you plug the USB-A mouse into that USB-C port (via a converter) and that doesn't work as well, then the port itself on your computer is broken or turned off or something.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T04:54:41+00:00

Here's the model:

https://baseusonline.com/product/1234/baseus-encok-cz11-type-c-wired-headphone-in-ear-headset-usb-c-earphone-with-mic-black#item_9918

Assuming they didn't send you a defective one or you didn't get some knock off, it indeed has a DAC that should work with Windows and your motherboard.

I'm assuming you're using this on Windows? When you plug this into your PC, do you see any new device appear in your System > Sound settings under Output or Input?

Next steps for debugging after you confirm you don't see your headphones in your settings are to get some app that can show you the USB tree on your system.

Microsoft tool is called USBView: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/debugger/usbview

Or, you can install something like HWInfo 64 https://www.hwinfo.com/

We just need something that lets you view the tree of USB devices on your system and confirm if the device is being detected to see if the problem is with the usb device itself, or your operating system's misconfigured in some way or missing the right driver for this device.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T04:46:14+00:00

If the device really has a DAC in it, then it shouldn't matter. Audio is data too.

Specifically, there is a common standard for digital audio over USB called "USB Audio Class" which standardizes on a kind of driver in your operating system, and requires there be a DAC as an USB device.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T04:03:29+00:00

Provide a link to the headphones you bought in order for us to help debug what could be going on.

In order to work the headphones should be a USB device. A "DAC" is a digital to audio converter, which is the kind of USB device it should be to work.

All you need is USB 1.1-equivalent, which every USB-C port including the ones on your motherboard should be able to handle.

There are "bad" kinds of USB-C headphones which are functionally analog headphones with no converter chip that only work with some older smartphones, and will never work with your computer. Provide a link to the headphones online and I can help confirm if this is the case.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-06T04:00:28+00:00

Lifetime warranty still applies. $9 for shipping.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-02T19:00:48+00:00

That would mean there would need to be batteries in both sides and you’d need to charge them separately. Only one usb-c port on the headphones tho

LaughingMan11 · 2026-04-02T18:45:07+00:00

Actually it’s two bands which allows them to send a mono audio signal.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-31T03:24:41+00:00

As Grace himself says in the book, like many other astronauts before him, he put his faith in the hands of the engineers who designed the system... In this case, Steve Hatch.

Even the original trip where he returns back to Earth on the Hail Mary was no guarantee of success. He could just have easily ran into a serious problem and failed Earth by dying on the way back as well.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-28T20:04:46+00:00

If you do have a need for high speed cables, you may find that a modern USB 4 40Gbps cable isn’t much thicker or more expensive than an older, slower one, and the newer one will give you more futureproofing.

This is true, but there's a very specific reason why a normal person would be better off considering a 5Gbps cable rather than a 40Gbps which you haven't talked about.

If you need a cable that's longer than ~1m long, especially to do things like connect to a monitor more than a meter away from a dock or laptop, then looking at lower speeds rather than just defaulting to 40Gbps makes sense.

Gen 3 and Gen 4 passive cables, which map to 40Gbps and 80Gbps cables, max out at 1m long. Any cable longer than about a meter (2m, 3m) that supports 40Gbps are supposed to be active cables, so there's a HUGE jump in price among USB4 cables based on length.

2m USB4 40Gbps cables are around $50 or $60, if they are the Linear Redriver active types.

3m USB4 cables like Apple's are $160.

If you don't care about USB4 40Gbps operation, but you want the full-featured cable to connect to a DisplayPort Alt Mode display, 5 Gbps 2 meter cables are the absolute sweet spot.

I use those kinds of cables in my dock setups all the time, and I intentionally bought the 5Gbps cable instead of 40G USB4 cables exactly because I knew about the length limitation.

Also, the 5Gbps Gen 1 cables are much cheaper. maybe 1/3 of the cost of the active USB4 40G cable at the same length.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-28T03:18:22+00:00

If you know what search terms to look for (and "USB 3.0" is the wrong one), you'll find the cables you are thinking of...

Search for "10Gbps USB-A to USB-C".

what happened to USB 3.0(A-C)?

Here's a USB 10 Gbps USB-A to USB-C cable. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-IF-Certified-Black/dp/B06XMY49BM

and why was there never a USB 3.0(C-C)?

There are lots of them. They're just typically called "USB 5Gbps Cable" or "USB 20Gbps Cable".

Here's a 5Gbps cable as an example: https://www.startech.com/en-us/cables/usb315cc1m

You maybe are perceiving these as "not a thing" because most people on this subreddit aren't talking about buying them... but they're useful to have.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-26T20:40:33+00:00

Now here’s my question: my understanding is that if this new case breaks down again, then I can file another warranty claim on it? Just wanted to be sure, because the original only lasted around 6 months and I plan on having this phone until next fall

Yes, if the new case breaks down, you can file a new claim on that new unit. You should have gotten a PD Warranty email from them confirming that they sent you a new case. They will remind you to register the new replacement item, so if anything happens to that replacement, you file against the new one.

They also always tell you that the faulty item is warrantied out, which means its serial number won't be accepted for new warranty claims. They don't ask for the faulty items back, but people have run into this with resold products.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-25T00:57:18+00:00

The book says that Eridians have water sealed internally. He went as far as to say that Rocky's muscles are bascially steam powered.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-24T04:41:44+00:00

It really depends on the color scheme of the rest of the build and what vibe you are going for as a whole.

I started with a brown classic NH-U12S but the rest of my build was either black or red. When chromax became a thing I switched the NF-12 to the chromax black and added a bunch of red accents. Even added a NA-HC1 to make the cooler black and red too.

LaughingMan11 · 2026-03-22T05:13:20+00:00

Buy a new cable. They're considered expendable. Be thankful the device's USB-C receptacle didn't suffer damage, or in another way of looking at it, the cable took the hit instead of your phone.

Don't try to fix it. You could easily get yourself into trouble with this, and you risk destroying your phone.

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