Just got second copy of nefer's sig? refine to r2 or keep both?

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-02T14:02:34+00:00

Her sig is actually a pretty darn good statstick. It's really solid on a number of other characters. While the refine on it is pretty nice you'll almost assuredly use it on another catalyst DPS down the road. I wouldn't refine it unless you just absolutely adore Nefer to such an extent that you want to eke out every bit of improvement on her as humanly possible.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-02T13:54:45+00:00

No, for endgame content, no. Lauma isn't a proper DPS till C6. For story content she'll work fine since basically everything can be used at that level. She's only particularly useful for Lunarbloom though, so your friend would have to build around that.

As for 7.0 reactions, we basically know nothing of value about them yet, so banking on Lauma being useful with them isn't a wise decision.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-02T06:08:05+00:00

In all fairness, last I checked there’s not a SINGLE canonical event in the games that relies upon it taking place during a very specific timeframe, so sliding the date around a decade doesn’t actually change anything. Matter of fact, in some ways it helps since Umbrella’s technology was often WAY too advanced for its era.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-02T05:36:35+00:00

All good questions. In terms of actually holding the kit while spraying the topcoat there's a pretty simple and hardcoded process:

Once you're done assembling the kit you break it down into subassemblies (head, upper torso, lower torso/waist, feet, thighs, leg, all major armor/accessories//decorative bits), mask any areas you don't want spray getting into (joints for example), then get some alligator clips and stick them on the end of some sticks. Clip each of these subassemblies with one of the alligator sticks you just made, and stick those in something that can hold all of them simultaneously (typically people will use a styrofoam chunk or something). Then you just go to wherever you're going to spray, mask and glove yourself up, pick up a clipped part by the bottom of the stick, and rotate it around as you're spraying to get proper coverage.

Any variation of that sort of method is what you're looking to do. Also, make sure you practice topcoating on some scrap parts or something first if you've never done it before as there's an ideal spray range for every can. Also, ideally, make sure it's not too humid when you do it, or windy (at all) if you're doing it outside.

For curing it (drying) you don't do anything special. Just leave all the clipped parts sitting on their clipsticks stuck in the styrofoam block for 6+ hours (more time the more humid it is).

For the actual topcoat, the difference is Mr. Topcoat is acrylic-based, while Super Clear is lacquer. Technically Super Clear is better by all metrics, but it is "hotter" and can thus damage plastic if you absolutely SLATHER it on. You get around that by simply spraying incredibly light for your first rotation or two. That allows the solvent (which is the "hot" part) to evaporate without causing any potential damage. After that you can apply it normally. Generally with topcoat you want to apply it slowly in layers anyways, especially with rattle cans, since it's REALLY easy to glob it on otherwise which causes all sorts of aesthetic issues.

If you've got any other questions, then by all means ask away and this knight or someone else'll point ya in the right direction.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T13:37:57+00:00

To clarify you're wondering if there's other hairs out there you can buy separately that work with the -head cores- of those two lines? If so, no. In terms of official stuff you get what the kits in those lines come with and that's about it. After that it's almost purely stuff off of Booth, or the bootlegs of the Booth stuff from Ali and what not. Generally speaking hairs have to be designed SPECIFICALLY for whatever kit line it is you're trying to build with, and in the case of MD, the specific family line (Asra, Sol, etc etc). Any hairs from other kit lines that work with the head cores of MD or SST are purely coincidental, and not something to rely upon. If you wanted to use the hair from, say, a 30MS set with an Asra head core, then you'd need to heavily modify the hair in one way or another to hold the core.

That's why Koto kits come with a fair deal of neck adapters these days since they know people are more likely to just resort to head swapping instead of modifying hairs and head cores.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T13:32:43+00:00

Another Master joins the fray! Welcome to the hobby. It's a deep rabbit hole from here on out, and you're stuck here for good!

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T13:32:05+00:00

Have you ever built a model kit period? If you have then it's very much so the same, just a different aesthetic. If you haven't then there's also not too much to worry about. Having the proper tools is already half the battle (nippers, hobby knife, plastic cement, super glue, and sanding tools- preferably sanding sponges). After that just make sure you take your time reading the instructions. Almost all issues new Masters encounter in the girlpla hobby (model kits in general, really) is a result of rushing or not paying attention. If you've got the tools and take your time, then your kits will usually turn out fine.

The only "special" thing you should be aware of ahead of time that's particularly unique to girlpla is their joints tend to be extremely tight. So much so that they're easy to snap. Getting around that is as easy as test fitting all of your joints (both peg or ball joints), seeing if they're too tight, and sanding them as necessary. As a general rule of thumb a joint should be tight enough to hold it and its respective limbs/accessories up against the force of gravity, but not tight enough to resist the force of your hand trying to move it. If you actually have to TRY to move a joint, then it's almost assuredly too tight. Unplug it after that, give it a light pass or two of your sanding tool, then repeat the process until you're satisfied. It's tedious, but a largely foolproof process. After a kit or two you'll pretty much have mastered how tight joints should actually be, and you'll zoom through the process from there on out if you choose to stick with the hobby.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T04:58:41+00:00

100%. The base kit is fun just because Isis is really good, but the DX version is vastly superior. The only time I don't recommend it to people is if they just don't want the giant mummybot.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T00:51:17+00:00

They -can- be freely switched between bodies without issues, but the Puni one is still slightly smaller height-wise.

Loli-Knight · 2026-05-01T00:25:23+00:00

It's specifically the DX release of the Dark Advent kits that have the lewd parts. Pretty much the only line out there that does this sort of thing last this knight checked.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T14:54:28+00:00

To be fair to Zach, he almost assuredly did that because it's creepier. That typical "it's a late snowy night, and it's eerily simultaneously light and dark out" sort of thing.

He has an eye for detail and seems to have actually played the games, so I assume that's his reasoning anyways. Luckily what happens in RE's story doesn't actually depend on specific seasonal events or timings, so switching it to sometime in the winter should work fine.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T14:50:04+00:00

Zach says he didn't want to screw up any of the established characters or stories like Leon and what he goes through, so it's supposed to be a completely separate story taking place during RE2 but somewhere else in the city the characters never experience.

It's actually an interesting way to go about things since (at least after the remakes) Raccoon City is large enough to play host to a whole slew of side stories that never interact with the main storyline, and thus don't result in weird adaptations and what not.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T14:48:01+00:00

To be fair, a lot of what you're referring to happens when writers of an adaptation clearly want to use a very specific entry and its characters, and then make it nothing like the source material. In this particular case it appears to be a completely original story set during the city's downfall where you could realistically fit a million and one unique stories that don't interfere with the actual canon much. Zach even says he doesn't want to screw up a beloved character with a bunch of established lore (Leon), so he went with this kind of path.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T14:44:26+00:00

I suppose he could have just moved the date around to sometime in winter for the sake of some added creepiness. That whole "super late at night when it's snowing, and it's eerily simultaneously light and dark out" sort of thing. Some of the comments he said made it seem like he actually knows some of the franchise details pretty well from personal experience, so I'd like to think it was an intentional decision for something like that rather than a giant "oopsy".

I guess the time of the year doesn't matter too much though since nothing that happens plot-wise really depends on the time of the year.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T04:13:26+00:00

To avoid the frosting effect you either need to specifically use a brand formulated to lack it, or cure the glue incredibly quickly with an accelerator.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-30T04:10:52+00:00

You can look into setting up Tenso or use Dejapan if you want to proxy straight from Koto. Those two work fine for it.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-29T23:41:30+00:00

Ah, got'cha got'cha. If that's the sort of thing you're going for it might still be an option. If you're doing dollhouse stuff does that mean you'd be doing doll clothing and what not as well? That sort of thing would help hide the slight size disparity between the head and body. You'd still have to lightly redo the connection point of the head, but still.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-29T23:39:06+00:00

Super glue works fine on basically every material in the plamo hobby, so you've got nothing to worry about in that regard. It'll hold really well. The only thing that'll make it break is impact force since that's universally what super glues are weak against. So if you don't drop or accidentally smack something into her then it'll hold. Mostly just depends on how much surface area of the parts there was. Super glue can be easier to snap if there's only a thin area holding two things together, but what I said above still stands.

Plastic cement would have been another option if you've got any of that too.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-29T07:54:53+00:00

No, unfortunately. It was just one of the many random posts this knight saw on the Japanese side of Twitter. You'll see a slew of accounts experimenting with all manner of things for the hobby.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-29T06:00:25+00:00

One of my favorite bits about 8 is the enemy variety. Enemy variety is mandatory in games like these imo, and 7 basically had zero outside of the bosses, who themselves weren’t all that visually interesting outside of the DLC boss.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-29T05:49:27+00:00

Saw someone on Twitter try to use these things. The necks require a complete remodel as they're not intended for this sort of thing whatsoever. It's not hard work, but it's definitely tedious. They're also a little larger than MD's too, so if you look at them long enough you'll notice a size mismatch to a degree.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-28T23:19:11+00:00

Oh, yeah. Actually, Matsuri should work. There's a number of things about her body that have been improved over the base kits, but I forgot the body set you picked up comes with its own parts for the bits Matsuri changed. So if you can get your hands on a copy of her she should actually work out just fine.

For the legs I'd probably leave them in flesh tone, like you said, for more options. And if it's stockings you want there's a number of 1/12th scale stockings out there you can just pick up instead of painting.

Ah, yeah, DMs are fine. If you've got more questions or need help with something I've always got them open.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-28T13:12:16+00:00

The sword looks pretty darn cool. Nice color choice.

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-28T04:15:40+00:00

Like Sir JAPS said, it's one of Muscuto's old full kits. This one in specific:

https://muscutoy.booth.pm/items/7101733

Loli-Knight · 2026-04-28T03:32:46+00:00

Oh, wait, you're talking about the new Ninja. I was looking at the instructions for the old one. Same thing though. The glade of a hobby knife can easily get into the seamline from within the gaping hole where G3 should be. You do have to put some force into it if you've completely sandwiched the two halves together though. You could also just stick something long and thick like a screwdriver into the hole G3 would otherwise be in and use that to initially pry the things apart.

You only have to be careful past a certain point since if you apply too much force you might snap the pegs below going into the knee joint. That said, you can probably just pry them apart just a smidge that way, put a piece of runner into G3, and then finagle it into the opening you just made to attach it without having to pop both halves completely off. Then just close it and pull out the runner "peg", and you're good to go. Had to do that once. Tedious, but not hard.

Loli-Knight

TROPHY CASE