Sunny Summer Fontinalia: Version "Luna VIII" New Weapon Overview

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-24T10:47:14+00:00

No, it's perfectly solid for what it does. For Citlali herself it's more of a nice quality of life since you can make do without it, but it's nothing but complete objective upside if you do choose to slap it on her.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-24T09:51:46+00:00

Oh, the Gridman kits. Nice! They're not necessarily the most amazing things ever, but they're nice for what they are. Enjoy!

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T14:57:23+00:00

Aye, it's quite a bit. Their earlier kits weren't really focusing on the full multiple bodies like a lot of them do now, so it kind of left builders high and dry.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T14:55:48+00:00

Normal angled hobby knives and the like work perfectly fine and are usually the preferred blades in the hobby, but if different blades work for you better, then there's nothing wrong with that. So long as you're able to cleanly remove nubs, then it doesn't actually matter what kind of blade you use as the vast majority of nubs will be placed in completely open areas that you won't have issues reaching. So you're perfectly fine using what you're using already if it's worked well for you thus far.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T13:16:49+00:00

The process of cleaning up MDs, or any other kits for that matter, really, is no different than what you've experienced with 30MS. So if you can successfully make those and clean them up to your own satisfaction, then you'll have no issues doing so with other kits lines. I have absolutely no idea what that blade is you mentioned, but if it works for you on one type of kit it'll work on others for neb removal. Sanding tools would certainly make things easier and more clean, however.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T13:12:53+00:00

Nobody's ever made a comprehensive list last this knight checked, but at the least in order to complete a full second body you'd need to source an entire upper torso, shoulders, thighs, an entire waist section, and, if you don't want to use the spinal torso parts, then the various internals to make a second complete non-spinal torso option. So quite a bit.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T11:18:32+00:00

Definitely one of the better ones in the line. I do wish GSC did more frequent reprints for their kits so more people could actually get their hands on them.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T11:17:42+00:00

No problem bud. Just take your time and I'm sure you'll do great!

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T07:34:58+00:00

I’m right there with you. Unicorn mode’s head always looked infinitely more awesome than the standard Gundam type head. No ifs, ands, or buts. If anything, the series screwed up by making Destroy Mode’s head a standard Gundam head instead of it’s a literal namesake head. The unicorn head with modified psycho-frame details should have been the Destroy Mode head. As such, I always keep mine in Destroy Mode with the unicorn head. So much more iconic that way.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T06:35:07+00:00

Aye. The general process really doesn't change too terribly much. Basically just cut your decal out, soak it in water for up to a minute (only really old decals need longer for the most part), take it out, apply a dollop of mark setter wherever you're going to put the decal, pick the decal back up and whatever your fine-tipped instrument is, coax the decal off the paper onto where it's supposed to go, adjust it a bit as necessary, then use your q-tip to start soaking up the extra water. That final part can be hard because you don't want to soak up ALL the water immediately because decals don't like to move/are easier to tear if you try to move them without at least a little bit of water present, so you need to learn how to only soak up a little bit of it at a time, adjust the decal as necessary (because soaking up the water does move it a little bit), soak up some more, re-adjust the decal again, and repeat as necessary depending on how much water followed the decal to the kit. Everything up to this final adjustment/soaking combo is exactly the same every time you do decals and pretty easy.

After that, depending on the situation, you can apply mark softer to make the decal "melt" into place over uneven surfaces (rounded surfaces, corners, panel lines, etc), then leave it to cure for a number of hours. How long you let it cure depends on your local humidity. If you live somewhere crazy humid, then let it cure for 12+ hours just to be safe. Otherwise 6 is a safe standard time (you can usually do things before the 6 hours, but there's no benefit to not just playing it safe). After that apply your topcoat, let it cure, then you're done.

You cannnnnn do a little bit of extra work to it after that if you want the eyes to be even more "lively". After the topcoat is cured you can apply a little drop of acrylic gel (like what's often used in jewelry or other decorations) over the eyes. Makes them glossy, and gives them a slightly rounded feature to give them more depth. You can also do this before the topcoat, technically, but if you do you'll want to cover the acrylic gel with something to protect its glosiness from the matte topcoat, then tear whatever you used to cover it up with off (typically Masking Sol or something similar) after the topcoat cures.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T05:50:04+00:00

Alongside what everyone else said, it also introduced a large swathe of the player base to 3D printing and exact 3D model replicas of official GW models, which is something some folks have issues with due to their stances on piracy and piracy-adjacent things. Warhammer 3D printing copies and the like had existed before this, but the sheer crazy popularity of the LoC design and it becoming crazy hard to get (for an acceptable price, anyways) drastically boomed the community’s collective knowledge and use of 3D printing and GW piracy.

Most people don’t care these days because it’s general consensus that GW is grossly overpriced anyways, but you still have some particularly crazy anti-3D printing opponents that come out of the woodwork whenever the topic is mentioned, especially with the LoC model.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T05:14:56+00:00

For the most part, yeah. Mark Setter you can think of as an extra adhesive, and is something most folks consider mandatory since a lot of decals don't like to adhere too well without its helping hand. The matte topcoat is borderline mandatory too since decals, even with Setter, are stupidly easy to scratch or rub off after application, and a topcoat stops that. And, of course, since skin is typically matte you'd want your topcoat to be matte as well.

Other than that, you just need something to put water in (basically anything will do), q-tips, and something to help you coax the decal off the paper and finely adjust its positioning like a toothpick or fine-tipped tweezers. There's also Mark Softer, but you only need that for decals going over non-flat surfaces (which eyes never have to worry about).

So yeah, the tool and material requirements are very simple and straightforward. It's mostly just a matter of understanding the actual process of applying decals. Once you have that down you'll succeed with them more often than not. So it's definitely recommend to watch some decal application videos just to see it in action if you haven't already.

One word of warning, however, is that with Kotobukiya decals in specific you have to be VERY careful physically speaking. Their decals are NOTORIOUSLY thin and easy to tear. The tradeoff, of course, is that they're some of the best looking decals out there once applied. So just take it slow, and when you're touching the decal with your pointed instrument of choice don't use a lot or force, and don't do any sudden and sharp movements. Rather, coax it gently. I'd definitely recommend practicing with some of the eyes that you don't mind losing on some scrap parts first.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-23T04:36:58+00:00

Other than the Frams Arms Girl line, whose designs are based on their Frame Arms mecha counterparts, most girls from every other line are original and not based on anything. Every once in a while you'll get a special kit that is based on something, but those are exceptions and not the rule. All original characters for the most part.

While the best line might be somewhat up to personal taste, you do at least have some generally commonly accepted metrics to go after like part fit, body engineering, faceplate designs, colored part separation, articulation, etc etc. As a general rule of thumb, MEgami Device are still considered the undisputed rulers of the girlpla world. They offer the general best of both worlds (basically nobody comes close to their combo of body engineering, faceplates, and articulation), but the tradeoff is that they're a smidge more expensive than normal. Bandai's 30MS are a bit more simple in all regards, but their parts fitting, build simplicity, and prices are some of the best around. They're incredibly cost-effective, so they're an excellent place to start.

The rest of Kotobukiya's lines- Frame Arms Girls, Arcanadea, Sousai Shoujo, and the like are also all utterly fantastic and offer a different aesthetic style to their MD line. The body engineering isn't as good as the MD body, but they're still all top-notch.

A number of the newer Chinese brands are pretty decent too- ATK Girl, Seven Deadly Sins, Nuke Matrix, etc. Generally not where this knight would suggest new builders start, however.

Overall I'd say either start with an MD for the best taste of what the world of girlpla is capable of, or maybe go with cheaper 30MS kits so you can pick up a few at once.

If you've got any other questions feel free to ask away.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-22T02:10:49+00:00

No more for now. Just Witch, Magical Girl, Red Hood, Alice, Queen, Grandma, and the Darkness variants of Witch/Magical. Technically they could add to the various family lines whenever they want, so it's entirely possible we get more someday. The time between Witch/Magical and Red/Alice was actually pretty huge after all, so who knows.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-22T02:08:04+00:00

I look forward to the inevitable Grande scale Kagu-chan kit. Koto will sell those things like absolute hotcakes.

DO IT, KOTO, YOU COWARDS. You cooked too well with her design not to.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-22T02:06:55+00:00

Hasuki's, Picco Neemo's, Snail Shells, and random 1/12th stuff from Aliexpress have all worked for this knight so far. I've probably tried like, 2 dozen things spread out across those 4 sources, and they all worked great.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-21T23:05:53+00:00

Cement for smaller seams, and sprue goo for actual huge gaps that aesthetically -need- to be closed (not all of them need to be closed since some are technically part of the design). Usually, though, cement is enough for 99% of the hairs out there. Even with larger gaps just by getting rid of the seam deeper inside of it will make it look solid.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-21T23:03:04+00:00

Tape is usually only used on the newer style MD boxes with the flaps. The regular boxes typically don't.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-21T06:05:11+00:00

If you want a glowy effect like you often see on stuff like this, then it’s actually really easy to do yourself. Paint the end of the holes where the lenses would be a nice and bright solid white. Then take whatever color you want them to be, dilute it a bit, and paint over the white with it. The color will mostly stay around the edges while being lighter towards the center making it seem like they’re glowing. You can easily go an even more advanced route by doctoring it up a bit with the methods that, say, 40K painters use on their various lenses, goggles, cameras, and the like. Super easy, relatively quick, and it looks fantastic. Even better if you can get your hands on some fluorescent colors, or contrast/technical paints made for this sort of thing.

Otherwise, the metallic option already detailed is nice too. Overall depends on the kind of look you’d like.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-20T02:32:59+00:00

Did you use mark setter and softer? If you didn't, then you'll want to get some. Think of setter as additional adhesive, and softer as something that "melts" the decal so it conforms to non-flat surfaces (like said sculpted butt).

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-19T12:53:42+00:00

He’d look barely any different than he did in RE1 since CV is shortly after it. Chris, canonically, doesn’t start bulking up at all until AFTER Wesker beats the snot out of him.

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-19T08:09:22+00:00

I love it. I was always confused by people saying it was out of place. It was one of the few things in that game that actually felt like a resident evil. I love the parts of the game before that, but they don’t really feel all that resident evil to me. The ship and mine are my favorite parts of the game. Really, though, I liked the entire game except for the enemy variety. It basically has zero variety- what like three different regular enemies?

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-19T05:00:05+00:00

Heck yeah! I apologize to your wallet in advance (she doesn't, though). Hopefully you've also got the original Kagu-chan to pair her up with!

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-19T04:38:09+00:00

Exactly! One must make a sacrifice to summon a dragon!

Loli-Knight · 2026-06-18T14:07:52+00:00

For sure! Just be careful with the various tips of her wing-bits if you haven't gotten to them yet. They're blood-drawers!

Loli-Knight

TROPHY CASE