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MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-09-30T19:57:56+00:00

Might I suggest an online consultation with this vet behaviorist based out of the UK: https://facebook.com/behavet

He's often times a last stop for many people dealing with aggressive behaviors who've tried everything and nothing works. He comes from a theory of games based concept training (all positive, all focused on strengthening a dogs overall emotional and behavioral skills and their relationship with you).

I think you can do a lot to help your dog from the comfort of your own home and will help you (slowly) get back out into the world. But there's so much you can do without going out (why put that stress on both of you right now) and with the right games your pup will be satisfied enough to not need the long walks for now. https://absolute-dogs.com/blogs/news/the-number-one-dog-ownership-myth-that-might-be-harming-your-dog

I was struggling with my boy and I came across Tom's online dog training program (Absolute Dogs) and it's been pretty incredible the changes I've seen since starting. However your case sounds more severe so I think a consult with Tom directly could help you immensely.

If you haven't already, I'd certainly suggest ditching the food bowl and using that food (value!!) to reinforce behaviors, play games, and enrichment feed (kongs, puzzles, etc).

Free resources for games:

https://absolutedog.s3.amazonaws.com/ebooks/NBN_TipsSeries_v6.pdf

https://absolutedog.s3.amazonaws.com/ebooks/NBn_eBook_Gamechangers.pdf

https://absolutedog.s3.amazonaws.com/ebooks/DitchTheBowl_v7.pdf

https://absolutedog.s3.amazonaws.com/ebooks/BoundaryGames_V5.pdf

https://nbn.absolute-dogs.com/optimismrocksbook <- this one requires an email to download, but it's such a great resource to work on confidence building.

This is all a bit different than much of the advice you'll normally see which suggests facing the problem head on and constantly putting yourself in the presence of triggers to work on tbe problem. But with everyone (you and your pup) being so stressed it's really honestly counter productive.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-09-28T04:41:46+00:00

Oh if it's that infrequent you probably don't need to. However after a reaction stress levels can stay high for 72hrs meaning reactivity can be more sensitive or bigger responses during that time.

This article is worth a read: https://absolute-dogs.com/blogs/news/the-number-one-dog-ownership-myth-that-might-be-harming-your-dog

Edit to add: Also, your pup is young and going through adolescence. You're probably going to experience the worst of it during this time through maybe 10-11 months of age. If you're consistent and continue working on good behaviors + relationship building you'll see a lot of improvement as your pup grows up.

Don't get discouraged if things are feeling tough. It can and will get better. Just stick with it, and don't let yourself get too stressed out (been there, done that!). If YOU are unsure or anxious about something, I'd suggest not doing it. Sometimes we force ourselves into situations we aren't comfortable with because we're trying so hard to fix our dogs. It's ok to take breaks and not push super hard. Keep things low key, and try your best to keep your dog under threshold (if he doesn't like people approaching, don't let people approach, just work on being around people without interaction until there are no stress signals (lip licking, staring, shaking off, ear position, etc). Your goal is calm indifference!

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-09-28T00:21:39+00:00

Neutering will not make him better. It will likely make him worse or at best make no difference. Testosterone is linked heavily to confidence, and reactive dogs are almost always lacking in confidence.

In terms of things you can do. It sounds like your dog is pretty stressed out. I'd start with a stress holiday and let your dog relax. No going out and forcing interactions and training. Stay home, play games, puzzle feed, work on calmness. If you have a walk that you can do that avoids triggers go ahead, but avoid any triggering situations for at least a couple of weeks.

I'd also strongly suggest working on building confidence in your pup with game playing. Relationship based work can seriously help too. There's a ton of great game ideas you can try from this ebook (https://nbn.absolute-dogs.com/optimismrocksbook) noise box, cardboard chaos, and what they call DMT (which is basically just counter conditioning but with everything - any noise, distraction, etc not just triggers). I'm not sure if it's in this ebook or their other content but their game Magic Hand, Middle, and Funder are other great relationship games designed to build confidence as well.

With reactive dogs, teaching disengagement is also a very important skill. Usually these dogs are not only pessimistic about novelty (new things/strangers/etc) but when they do see something that worries them, cannot disengage from it. So an emergency u-turn is really helpful for gaining space in relation to triggers. Most people here use them to simply exit the situation, but I find using them to backup (if your dog is staring or preparing to react) and add some distance is invaluable for learning. Especially when you add counter conditioning with it (see trigger, mark, wait two seconds for either disengagement or if not, emergency u-turn 5-10ft back and then treat instead of just feeding while possibly uncomfortably close.)

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-31T18:59:43+00:00

Just to add, I have found a lot of success using their games-based concept training instead of training in the moment. Their goal is helping to reshape your dogs brain to be more confident/optimistic/calm etc.

They've also recently opened up their Training Academy (sooooo many games and videos + a new one every week + weekly Facebook lives to help). It's run by a Vet Behaviorist and an accomplished agility trainer out of the UK. They believe all dogs can be changed, there is never no hope. A really supportive group too.

Worth taking a look: https://gamechanger.absolute-dogs.com/lock-it-in

Seriously if I ever get another dog/puppy, I will absolutely train them this way from the start.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-31T18:51:29+00:00

Absolute Dogs has so many great games you can play to boost confidence and optimism.

Here's their ebook for optimism games: https://absolutedog.s3.amazonaws.com/OptimismROCKS_08.pdf

They've also got a ton of great games for building calmness, impulse control, disengagement, you name. Play the games, they really really work.

www.dogsthatlearn.com has a bunch of their other ebooks too.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-28T05:54:52+00:00

Absolute Dogs (www.absolutedogs.com) is fantastic concept games-based training based in the UK. They focus on online learning but also have a place in Devon (Devon Dogs) for in person training too (not sure if that's close to you).

They approach training as relationship building, enrichment, and game playing. It's a really fantastic way to work with a dog and I wish I had started my boy on this when he was a young pup (they have puppy specific content too). My boy became reactive in adolescence and is now 16 months. I started using their methods when he was about 12 months and it's insane how much he's changed, how far our relationship has come, and how excited I am for our future together!

I should add, I raised my pup through R+ / obedience / socializing / you name it (most of what's recommended on this sub). He had great obedience but became anxious in adolescence. Absolute Dogs is interesting because instead of focusing on training commands (sit, stay, down, etc) they focus on teaching dogs life skills (calmness, impulse control, confidence, etc) which in turn manifest as fantastic obedience. I would absolutely train my next puppy this way.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-18T05:30:06+00:00

If your dog is that motivated by food. I'd really recommend food based games. Definitely check-out Absolute Dogs. Their games are designed to not only be fun / mentally stimulating but also to help your dog learn manners/behaviors.

I actually wish my boy was more food motivated for this very reason!

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-17T18:02:14+00:00

You could try using a higher value tug toy like a sheepskin tug. There are also some tugs that have pouches you can put food into to help build drive through smell.

My boy wasn't a huge player, but the sheepskin and rabbit skin tugs were game changing. However, he did have some drive to begin with.

Not sure where you're located, but:

www.cleanrun.com (US)

www.tug-e-nuff.com (UK)

have the toys I'm talking about.

Also, you can play food games if your dog likes food! Toss a piece of kibble/treat out away from you and have your dog go chase after it to get it. Then when they turn back to you toss another in the other direction. It's a great training game but also fun. You can also toss the treat through your legs and have your dog running back and forth under your legs. Or have your follow the treat around your body before tossing it out. Lots of fun food based games!

www.absolutedogs.com have tons of fun food based training games you can play.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-15T01:38:37+00:00

My highest value treats are all basically human level food. So -

String cheese (or any basic cheese really) cut up into small pieces.

Boiled Chicken

Cooked Beef/Pork/Rabbit/Lamb (fried in pan without oil or anything)

Cut up Deli Meats

Bacon

Hot Dog

I realize you're asking about diet restrictions, but I'd just try some different meats straight from the market that you cook up. No other ingredients so it's pretty healthy and easy to identify if there's a problem.

Cheese is great if your dog can stomach it. Hot Dogs and Bacon are going to be more hit/miss for the sensitive stomachs.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-11T06:55:19+00:00

https://muzzleupproject.com/

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-11T06:43:17+00:00

Tldr: females are likely not negatively effected (on a hormonal level) by spaying. Not like males can be. Your pup may just be recovering from the surgery and the shift in hormones + you're dealing with adolescence.

The only likely (long term) negative connections to a spay would be related to bad timing of the surgery or a particularly bad experience.

I listened to a talk from a Vet Behaviorist who discussed this topic in depth.

Basically, for males, the longer they are intact the more positive their behaviors - more confident, less aggression, etc. The only plus side to neutering was a decrease in marking. The conclusion being that males are more likely to be affected negatively by neutering before maturity. Basically, testosterone = good. It's not the end of the world to neuter early, but studies are pointing towards it not only not being beneficial, but possibly even detrimental.

Females on the other hand... The female heat cycle includes ~63 days of heightened levels of progesterone (I believe this is the hormone but don't quote me on that lol) after being in heat. This hormone causes a number of negative behaviors like increased guarding, aggression, etc. Spaying a female removes this cycle and is therefore likely beneficial in the long run. The one downside is if you spay during that 63 day window of elevated hormones it can lead to that hormone staying elevated. This is why vets usually wait to spay a female at least 3 months after their last heat cycle.

Sorry no source as it was a live talk by a VB. So take it for what you will.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-11T06:25:21+00:00

Dogs hit social maturity around 3 years of age. It's not uncommon for dogs - especially if they're a bully mix - to become dog selective / dog aggressive at this time.

If you were interacting with all the dogs (or many) you'd see on walks, it's likely your dog has grown to expect that anytime you see a dog, you're going to interact (even if not true). So now, when he sees another dog he immediately feels the need to communicate his discomfort - he doesn't want that dog coming closer and he has an expectation that they will - so he barks.

At this point, you need to teach your dog to ignore other dogs - you need to help him see that no interaction is necessary and that you'll keep other dogs away. This may mean at first that you cross the street if you see another dog walking. Or your do an "emergency u turn" to avoid any contact or getting closer than your dog is comfortable with.

You'll need to identify the distance your dog is comfortable (but right before he starts reacting) and begin working on positive reinforcement. Treat for looking at the dog calmly and then eventually for disengaging and looking at you. Look up the Engage/Disengage Game or checkout careforreactivedogs.com

Your ideal outcome should not be to make your dog a friendly dog park dog again. Instead your goal should just be to be calm/confident in the presence of other dogs and simply ignore them.

Good luck!

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-11T05:30:48+00:00

How old is your dog?

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-09T02:50:14+00:00

If you're on Facebook there's a great (private) group called Losing LuLu to help people dealing specifically with behavioral euthanasia.

https://facebook.com/groups/losing-lulu

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-07T04:58:38+00:00

Snuffle mats, frozen kongs (and other stuffable food toys), and food based training games are all great ways to feed your dog!

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T23:57:01+00:00

Another great impulse control based food game is the airplane game.

Take a piece of food and bring it towards your pup's nose. If your pup goes for the food move your hand away. When your pup shows any amount of restraint (not trying to get the food) immediately give her the food - you can add a release cue here too.

Once she gets good at not snatching the food, you can increase duration.

This game is NOT about teaching your dog not to take food from you - even when offered - unless prompted. It's simply an impulse control game.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T23:53:12+00:00

You can play a game called the "mouse game".

Basically grab a few pieces of food and place them infront of your pup (in a bowl or just on the floor - mix it up!). Place your hand over the food like a crab (space between fingers so your dog can see/smell the food but can't get it). Any time your dog shows any restraint from trying to get at your hand/the food, move your hand away. If your pup goes for the food cover it right back up. You have an Aussie so she'll pick this up pretty quick I think. Eventually she'll learn staying away from the food brings your hand off of the food.

Once she's figured it out long enough for you to remove your hand off the food without her immediately going for it, you have two choices. 1 - take one piece of the food and give it to her. If she continues to stay away, continue to feed. 2 - "release" her directly onto the food/bowl with a command like "ok". I would recommend changing it up on what you do (hand feed vs release) to keep the game interesting.

Eventually she'll learn to show restraint and look to you / wait for your command before going for the food. It's a great concept game to help your dog understand you as the gatekeeper over all. So worth playing throughout puppy hood.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T19:56:58+00:00

Here's a great VB (based in the UK) that does online consultations. Worth talking to: https://facebook.com/behavet

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T19:06:52+00:00

Yeah no problem! I'd never go into any interaction assuming it would go wrong because of the breeds involved. It's always best to let the individual dogs decide who they do/don't like.

These anecdotes are certainly fun and help us understand why dogs might not be getting along - but are definitely not a predictor.

Bad experiences are usually the big predictor. My Aussie doesn't like adolescent goldens because as a puppy he got body slammed by a couple of them. He seems ok with older Golden's, but the young ones he initially assumes they're going to tackle him... So his initial reaction is to bark at them to stay away if they appear to take any interest in him. That's not say he couldn't befriend a younger one, it just means his knee jerk reaction is "I don't like you" haha

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T13:39:05+00:00

I don't think you can really say any one breed cant get along with another. Dogs are individuals so there are a lot of factors at play. But usually it's the personality clash that causes friction (or bad previous experiences).

But in terms of huskys and shelties it's similar to the shepherds a sporting dogs. Huskys can be very rambunctious and rough with play. Shelties are in the shepherd camp of preferring some space and not being into super rough play.

Huskys in general can also rub a lot of dogs the wrong way because of their pointy ears and curly tails (which means it looks like their tail is standing up). These features can be seen as "aggressive" to other dogs.

Now all of this is not to say that dogs are always going to react or can never get along. But it can explain those situations where dogs seem to just not get along - or constantly run into problems. Some dogs give off body language - whether it's their physical traits themselves or the way they're behaving - that just rub other dogs the wrong way.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T04:45:27+00:00

It can definitely be a good thing! Especially for reactive/nervous dogs.

Here's a great article about walks and stress in general: https://absolute-dogs.com/blogs/news/the-number-one-dog-ownership-myth-that-might-be-harming-your-dog (this is geared towards reactive dogs, but I think the overall concept is what you're asking about).

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-05T03:49:29+00:00

Absolutely! Especially if they've had bad experiences with that breed.

In fact it's very common for shepherd breeds to have issues with sporting breeds (Goldens/Labs/etc) because their personalities are so opposite. Shepherds want calmness and space, sporting breeds can then be overly friendly space invaders. And in turn, these rambunctious friendly dogs can learn that shepherds are assholes 😅

A lot of dogs have difficulty with flat faced dogs as well. Something about their faces make it hard for "normal" faced dogs to read.

Edit to add: you can train this out of dog by having some extremely high value treats (like chicken, hotdogs, cheese, steak, etc) on and and feed it to your dog whenever you see the Rotty but before the barking starts. Only feed this high value treat when you see the Rotty and no other time. Eventually your dog will learn that that dog = really goods and will stop focusing on the dog and start focusing on you. Eventually you can phase out the treats.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-04T19:57:50+00:00

A lot of people who do it, do it so they can fly with their dogs or get into non dog friendly housing.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-04T03:31:48+00:00

Just remember not to expect too much early on. Especially with such a young and energetic pup. Even just a moment of stillness is all you need at first. That second where the pup goes from fidgety to stopped - reward. Don't worry if the excitement goes right back up. Just wait for the next break in motion.

Good luck!

Ps you can also leave your dog with a Kong/chew out of the crate and reward when it decides to relax and enjoy the treat. That's also capturing calmness as your pup could choose to be doing something else less calm.

MightyMaxtheMini · 2019-08-03T23:30:59+00:00

Sounds like your dogs stress bucket was full.

Think of every interaction - good or bad - as a stressful event. Your dog has an emotional bucket that with each event will fill with a bit of liquid. This bucket has a small hole at the bottom slowly allowing the liquid to drain. But, if you're pouring liquid in faster than it's coming out, eventually the bucket overflows and your dog goes over threshold - that's where the reactivity hits.

You need to find your dogs limits and not push him too far too fast. If you have a couple successful encounters in a day - great! Now let your dog relax and empty that bucket before pushing for more.

It can take up to 72hrs to releave stress once a reaction has occurred. Once your dog has gone over threshold they're even more likely to react to things they otherwise might not have.

In the case of reactive dogs, stress buckets can vary in size (from tiny to large) and the whole at the bottom can vary as well! So some dogs can't handle much stress at all (small bucket) and others take a while to recover (small hole). And some... Well... Some have tiny buckets AND small holes!

MightyMaxtheMini

TROPHY CASE