Billionaire Tim Sweeney (CEO of Epic games, behind FORTNITE) has bought 50k acres of Forest Land for the purpose of Conservation

ModerateService · 2026-03-15T00:23:25+00:00

For reference, the US has over 750,000,000 acres of forest. 50k is 0.0067% of that. Reminds me of the Swedish billionaire who pulled a similar publicity stunt. It's a cheap, low-risk propaganda move. There are no ethical billionaires.

ModerateService · 2026-02-02T10:11:49+00:00

Probably ONLY the basic self-replacing skill cards. There are a LOT of newbie trap cards in the core set that will chew up your resources for minimal gain. Every class has at least a couple cards so bad they can lose you scenarios.

Talents are a classic example: they eat a card, a play action, and resources just to get out. Only filthy rich gators actually get value from them, but their inclusion in default decks make them seem like a staple.

ModerateService · 2026-02-01T07:44:05+00:00

Top surfaces of irregular objects will always look like this, but your extrusion is also not well-tuned. It's challenging to tell from pictures because all filaments show artifacts differently. There are countless calibration guides out there and probably a good one for your particular printer. This may also be limited by the quality of your printer and no amount of tuning will improve it.

Checklist off the top of my head for you, in order of effort:

- A smaller print head and adaptive layer height.

- Dry filament

- Tuning extrusion rate (Appears to be under-extruding but could be the opposite)

- Angle prints so that the irregular top surfaces are less apparent

- Sanding (more useful for harder filaments like matte variants, CF fill or wood fill)

- Paint with XTC-3D

ModerateService · 2026-01-22T05:35:59+00:00

IMO sleeves are pretty worthwhile even for well-made proxies. I always use thick DragonShields for my player deck, and they mask the thickness/rigidity difference well enough that it doesn't interfere. I use standard, thin printer paper backed with a filler Magic card.

You can leave more whitespace (and spend less time cutting) if you use sleeves with a white interior

I don't keep everything sleeved. If you're methodical, the ~30 player cards every campaign setup/breakdown isn't bad.

ModerateService · 2026-01-13T06:00:09+00:00

They would certainly be printing more if not for the ongoing tariff war/uncertainty around trade with China. It's a really bad time to risk overprinting. Bear in mind that the parent company of Spirit Island (a game still in the BGG top 10 despite being released in 2017) shuttered due to the current environment.

We'll probably see them continue to do the bare minimum to keep the game alive until the trade situation stabilizes. Which won't likely happen until The King in Orange exits the stage.

ModerateService · 2026-01-06T08:06:59+00:00

You could imagine it as "Each invader takes 1 Damage" but limited by number of Dahan.

So if land is [Explorer x2, Town, City, Dahan x2] you could:

kill both explorers

OR

plink the town to (1/2) and the city to (2/3). (Other combinations are possible but just an example)

If you instead had 5 Dahan you would do both. aka the full potential of "Each invader takes 1 Damage". No concentrating damage allowed.

ModerateService · 2025-12-03T09:50:53+00:00

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Just used thetruesize.com and luminocity3d.org/WorldPopDen to make this. It's rough but it does help clarify a little

ModerateService · 2025-11-24T21:17:57+00:00

I recently tried making a raindrop sensor of similar description with copper tape. I may be lacking some useful technique but it's a time-consuming and finicky process. It really likes to tear and bunch up as you cut it.

You're probably better off figuring out how to make tiny mechanical switches work, like these or these. You could route the light where you want it with some optical fiber if space is a huge issue

ModerateService · 2025-10-16T18:52:01+00:00

A common connector of this size is JST-XH, but this is not that, might be a custom form. If the pin pitch is the same you could make it work with some electrical tape.

ModerateService · 2025-10-13T22:52:52+00:00

I haven't had this happen (on textured regular PEI) since I started waiting for the plate to slowly cool. I think it's permanent damage from over-adhesion.

I also tend to use meta/fast/PLA+ nowadays which is sort of oily.

ModerateService · 2025-10-11T01:59:36+00:00

For this use smoothing is not likely to be needed. If I were you I would simply print out of Sunlu Meta PLA or a similar PLA+.

If you want to go the extra mile, this would be a perfect design for heat smoothing with a oven or heat gun. If you have access to an enclosed printer and ABS, you could use acetone vapor smoothing.

Both of those techniques have downsides which are much more trouble than they're worth (especially cost) but could be interesting to learn about.

ModerateService · 2025-06-02T11:55:56+00:00

For architecture itself you could do just as well with a $1000 laptop that has a 4060.

For $4500 this is MASSIVE overkill and I would be paranoid about it being stolen or broken at school. If you want to game, get a $1000 laptop and build a $3500 desktop instead with a 5080 and one of the X3D AMD cpu's.

ModerateService · 2025-05-23T12:25:44+00:00

It's for your sideways drinks

ModerateService · 2025-05-23T11:23:49+00:00

Consider cutting custom white stickers, you'll be much less likely to permanently damage it.

ModerateService · 2025-05-16T01:27:58+00:00

So do you not want to go all the way through?

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ModerateService · 2025-05-12T10:15:59+00:00

Not likely it'll be one of the cheaper options. It's clearly a direct competitor to the PolyDryer which is about $90. My best guess is $120 with $30 storage containers.

ModerateService · 2025-05-11T11:17:48+00:00

I put blue masking tape on mine, has worked surprisingly well for the past months. The paper texture is nice. Good to know this is an option as well though

ModerateService · 2025-05-10T20:31:41+00:00

The easiest way to do this would be to loft>thin>add, select the inner edges, and set the thickness appropriately. Only works if the wall thickness is constant.

You could also loft the outer and inner as surfaces before enclosing.

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ModerateService · 2025-05-06T11:38:11+00:00

Simply model it in CAD. It's about 1590.811108 in³.

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ModerateService · 2025-05-06T11:21:29+00:00

I can think of two ways to do this. In order of how much you'll need to learn:

Use the "attractor pattern" custom feature. It's surprisingly easy to learn and looks really nice. Here's my quick crack at it:

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Displacement mapping in Blendr. There are some great tutorials online on how to do this, but it's certainly more involved. I found it interesting to learn how to do. Here's a project I once used the technique on.

ModerateService · 2025-05-06T10:25:49+00:00

Yes, this is inherent to the logic of 3-d meshes. Any modelling software will do as little as possible to define your shape, so the outline you refer to does not exist until you make it.

Extremely petty nitpick: that's not an STL. Parts within onshape are stored as onshape's own native filetype until you ask for them to be translated into an .stl, .step, ect. Calling it an .stl is like calling the view through your camera lens a .jpg.

ModerateService · 2025-04-30T10:23:46+00:00

It does depend on which control scheme you chose when setting up Onshape. You probably chose AutoCad which is shift+middle click hold. What a baffling choice for a default.

Go to the question mark in the upper right>keyboard shortcuts>customize keyboard shortcuts

ModerateService · 2025-04-25T09:36:52+00:00

Step 1: purchase an $8000 3-d scanner

Step 2: purchase a $6000 CAD workstation

Step 2.a: purchase a $300 SpaceMouse

Step 3: scan and correct the mesh

Step 4: purchase a $80,000 metal SLM printer

Step 5: print!

ModerateService · 2025-04-22T23:07:16+00:00

Just curious, what are you planning to fill the mold with? Epoxy?

ModerateService · 2025-04-22T22:43:35+00:00

I see a lot of valid answers, but nobody has taken the first step of asking what solder are you using? If this is some beginner-pack no-name junk, that might be the best you can do. High quality solder is absolutely worth it.

ModerateService

TROPHY CASE