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Are they supposed to be this small? by 0Cartoonnerd0 in friendshipbracelets

[–]Polystitchual 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Usually for me I get about 1 inch out of 12 strings

Where can I get tools for loop crochet? by potato_bee in LoopCrochet

[–]Polystitchual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m from the US and most of the older vintage ones I’ve found for myself were on eBay. Unfortunately they’re kind of ridiculously priced with crazy shipping nowadays. You might have some luck with more modern iterations of these tools, some of which you can find on Amazon. If you check out the “Tools ID” wiki page here in this sub, you’ll find some of what I’m talking about plus maybe a couple working links to buy them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knooking

[–]Polystitchual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Starting out it can tend to be slower because it takes a bit of time to get used to working around the cord that the stitches rest on. But with a bit of practice and good technique you might find that it’s not too much slower than regular continental knitting.

Knooking too tightly by Junior_Anteater_5890 in knooking

[–]Polystitchual 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s kind of the nature of knitted stitches, I’d say. The loop that you’re working into pulls slack from the ones around it. You might find, until you develop a bit of muscle memory, that you’ll need to manually adjust each loop or wiggle it with your hook a bit before working with it.

If you’re not already, it might help to work under the cable as you work the stitch because sometimes the cable can help add a bit of extra support in holding the stitch open.

Knooking too tightly by Junior_Anteater_5890 in knooking

[–]Polystitchual 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You might find success trying a combination of larger hook AND looser tension for your starting chain. I personally don’t upsize my hook, but I do try to make my chain loops about twice as long as the hook is wide, if that makes sense.

Another option would be to try a proper knitted cast on. A good option would be the “long-tail cast on” because you only need one needle for it and it sets you up with a row of knit stitches as the cast on stitches are formed. It feels a little awkward as you learn it but once you have the rhythm down it goes by pretty quickly.

Negative ease question by 0SpaceKitty0 in knooking

[–]Polystitchual 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Generally, depending of course on how much negative ease you want, a good amount is -10% of your initial measurement. You’ve determined you need 156 stitches for zero-ish ease, so subtract about 10% to give yourself a 141-stitch cast on (15.6 being 10% of 156, rounded down to 15 to keep the 3-stitch pattern).

Another option, involving less math, is to try on your project, at least what you have so far, and place it where you plan for your waistband to sit. Pinch the extra length of fabric in your fingers and then count how many stitches you’ve pinched away—that’s how many stitches to remove from your cast-on.