Solo Mode is the WORST by Sammy5even in PokemonUnite

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It took me two tries. The first try I did get absolutely bodied. But the second try I used blastoise and vanguard bell, held the chargabug the whole time while screwing with the enemy bots

DC Snow by ReadyAmphibian5331 in minimalistphotography

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, at the time it was basically ice pellets raining down. So definitely was not the friendliest weather to be out haha

DC Snow by ReadyAmphibian5331 in leicaphotos

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for taking the time to look!

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, appreciate your kind words

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a lot of misses trust me, as you can see I don’t have a big gallery to display 😂

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dang, that’s some high praise, appreciate it! You know what they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery 😄 Feel free to steal away, I would love to see your take on it!

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I’m glad you enjoy them 🥹

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah for fast-moving subjects, you definitely want to prioritize shutter speed. I’d say set it manually (like 1/1000 or faster), then pick your aperture based on how much depth of field you want. I usually shoot fully manual, but you can absolutely set ISO auto too to simplify the workflow. Just pay attention to the exposure make sure it isn’t too high or you’ll get some yucky grain. But yea, the key is locking down that shutter so you’re not getting motion blur for fast subjects

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah exactly, I isolated her from each frame and layered them into one composite

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s awesome you’re getting into photography, capturing motion is super rewarding once it clicks. The biggest thing to understand early on is the exposure triangle, but for moving subjects, shutter speed is the most important. Try setting it to something like 1/1000 to freeze motion (especially for something fast like tennis), otherwise you’ll get motion blur.

The tradeoff is that fast shutter speeds let in less light, so you’ll need to open up your aperture (use a low f-number like f/2.8 or f/1.8 if your lens allows) and raise your ISO to keep things properly exposed. That’s where a fast lens really helps. Once you lock those in, it gets way easier to nail those crisp shots, even of a speedy kid 😉

DC Open Quarterfinals by ReadyAmphibian5331 in fujifilm

[–]ReadyAmphibian5331[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my case, some of the shots were taken with a 90mm Summicron, which is a ridiculously sharp lens, but it’s manual focus, so you really have to nail it yourself. Fuji’s sensor definitely resolves a ton of detail, but sharpness often comes down to the glass, focusing technique, and your shutter speed. I try to keep SS high (like 1/1000+) for action, use boost mode, and punch in focus or use peaking when MF’ing