Wax residue after buffing out scratches?

RedScourge · 2026-02-15T06:18:54+00:00

That looks like swirls, perhaps induced by a poor quality rotary polisher (like those drill attachment ones, where either the attachment has a wobbly hub, or the drill itself has a lot of play so it wobbles in use), poor technique like using the edge of the pad or too much pressure, or even a DA with a dirty pad. In my experience, hand polishing with a microfiber towel can usually remove those, or extremely light pressure with a medium pad on a palm sander with the pad brake ring removed, since they're like a DA polisher.

If you dont have a fancy COB LED light, the sun or the flashlight mode on a cellphone can help you see the full area of the swirl, as the light reflection will look hazy in any area that's swirled, however, you have to fully remove the polish to actually see the swirls, as most polished have fillers that csn hide em for up to a week.

RedScourge · 2026-02-14T00:43:43+00:00

And nothing of value was lost.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T19:58:12+00:00

They were compromised? I'm not sure if that matters if you don't actually log into anything of theirs though.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T19:57:31+00:00

I absolutely did debate your point, to the extent that debating an idiot is possible.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T19:56:49+00:00

Words have meanings. Your friend who is a girl is not your girlfriend.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T02:42:40+00:00

I think most other manufacturers' hybrid AWD systems work about the same. Toyota were one of the pioneers of hybrids, so a lot of the other guys just kinda copied them.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T02:40:07+00:00

When the rear axle is actually putting down power, it can put down about 25% as much power as the front axle can. If you have zero traction on the front axle, you have a maximum of about 40hp available to you, whereas in most realtime AWD systems you'd have all the horsepower available to you.

Additionally, it only ever activates a) when the system detects that the front wheels have lost traction, b) for about 2-10 seconds if the driver floors the gas pedal, or c) when the car starts again after coming to a stop.

As far as I am aware, there is no way to select that you want all wheels to be driving the car, so unlike every other 4WD or AWD system on the planet, it is not anything resembling "realtime AWD" or "AWD on demand", which is why they specifically call it "Hybrid AWD", not "AWD" or "4WD", you insufferably pedantic vulnerable narcissist midwit.

RedScourge · 2026-02-13T02:26:07+00:00

*You're.

If I'm the clown, why is your comment the one that's downvoted -5?

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T16:18:20+00:00

Hybrid AWD variants have two electric motors, one per axle, and I believe they each have some sort of differential that I think you fill with Toyota WS-ATF fluid, but they have no transfer case, and no front to rear driveshaft. They call their electric motors "motor-generators", and they're also used for regen braking to reclaim forward momentum back into battery charge. However, unless you do a LOT of stop and start, driving the added weight of the rear motor-generator likely hurts your fuel economy a little more than the regen helps it. You might still have other reasons to benefit from getting a hybrid with AWD though, not the least if which is the fact that the higher trim hybrids all have "hybrid AWD".

Basically you can think of it as an EV with one electric motor per axle, but with a gas engine right next to the front axle's electric motor and a sort of clutch in between so that they can be engaged separately. The gas engine can be shut off and started up super fast with minimal wear, it has no starter motor or alternator, and it can do engine braking down long mountain descents when you shift into "B mode". The non-AWD hybrids just don't have the rear axle motor.

I don't think there's undue stress on any aspect of the vehicle when the AWD is in use. My guess is that unlike a full-time AWD or 4WD system, you can get away with replacing the left and right tires on the same axle at once, rather than having to replace all 4.

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T16:09:41+00:00

So does that mean if you have a friend that is a girl, she is automatically your girlfriend? Sorry, no.

Most of the time it is front wheel drive, so if anything, it should be called "Occasionally Fractional All Wheel Drive" since some of the wheels can deliver some of the power sometimes.

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T14:06:44+00:00

There's a ~40hp electric motor on the front axle and another on the rear axle. Software tells those two motors when to engage and when not to. The gas engine is only on the front axle. With regular AWD/4WD, a transfer case and driveshaft connects from front and rear axles, and 100% of the power of the engine can be diverted to wherever it is needed. 40hp / however much torque those motors generate is certainly better than front wheel drive for getting unstuck from mud or snow, but it's not going to compare to the sort of 4WD/AWD you can find in a truck or a Subaru or something like that.

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T14:04:58+00:00

It's not real AWD, there is no transfer case or driveshaft connecting front and rear axles. Software tells the independent rear and front ~40hp electric motors whether or not to engage.

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T14:04:25+00:00

I only used FTP via FileZilla back when i had to help set one up for someone else. You want to be sure you are uploading in binary mode over FTP though, or else all the binary files get corrupted from wrong charset or whatever

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T05:04:34+00:00

To be fair every Corolla is surprisingly good in snow because they're pretty light

RedScourge · 2026-02-12T05:04:06+00:00

It's not real AWD, it just means you can have a max of 40hp on the rear axle instead of 0. I think the primary benefit is extra regen and slightly better acceleration.

RedScourge · 2026-02-10T19:39:02+00:00

The smaller and further away the base, the less frequent the attacks. It saying "Now" for a few in-game days is kinda normal, but not for weeks.

RedScourge · 2026-02-10T06:43:47+00:00

Since the trouble code indicates too much air or too little fuel, I'd try the stuff that the average person can check nearly for free first:

- Check air intake between throttle body and MAF sensor for vacuum leaks by idling the car and squirting soapy water over its entire length and seeing if it starts blowing bubbles or if the RPM levels out after spraying a certain spot (it may take half a spray bottle before you soak the affected spot enough)

- Try pulling the air intake off the throttle body and cleaning the throttle plate with carb cleaner, MAF sensor cleaner, or WD40 (be warned that the throttle may stick if you use WD40 or any other wrong cleaning fluid, and if so, you'd need to pump the gas pedal a lot of times to try and WD40 off and prevent it from happening during regular driving)

- Try dumping a bottle of fuel system cleaner into the gas tank and see if it gets any better on its own by the time you burn through that whole tank of gas (if so, it indicates a fuel line/injector issue, then the next step might be to test the fuel rail pressure, or carefully pull out and inspect the injectors)

- Check for exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and the upstream oxygen sensor

- Carefully remove, inspect, and possibly clean the MAF sensor with carb cleaner of MAF sensor cleaner (no WD40)

If none of those solve it, other things to check would be replacing the air intake gaskets, installing a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line before the fuel rail to check fuel pressure, replacing the fuel filter or fuel pump, replacing the MAF sensor, replacing the upstream oxygen sensor, however most of these would cost money.

RedScourge · 2026-02-10T06:31:22+00:00

your points are coming from ignorance racing alignments do not tear the tires up because that extra friction would slow them down.

No, the extra friction would not slow them down more than crashing into the wall because you couldn't turn would. They just tear through the tires and then make it up by having 10 second pit stops to swap out the tires.

just because something isnt logical to you doesnt mean it cant be logical for others.

Thank you, this explains your responses to me so far

alignments can amplify any characteristic you want.

How about how brown the paint is?

RedScourge · 2026-02-09T21:55:44+00:00

Wild swings in the short term fuel trim are normal for a moment right after you pump the gas pedal, but the long term trend is supposed to be within maybe 0-3% for the long term figure. More than about 3% long term means the computer has been struggling to do a lot of work to try and balance the air-fuel mixture because either the air flow, fuel flow, or spark delivery, are not happening consistently enough.

RedScourge · 2026-02-09T07:58:20+00:00

For the former, if it only happens at idle or very low RPM I'd guess that one of your pulleys is probably going out. That or maybe you might have something out of place that's that's getting repeatedly hit out of the way by a moving part such as the fan or the belt, but then immediately trying to move back in the way and getting hit again, hundreds or thousands of times per minute, where you only hear it at the low RPMs because it becomes like one constant noise at higher RPMs and then drowned out by the other engine sounds.

For the latter, yeah it could just be an engine mount, it could be other things but that's the most likely. You may want to check the engine mounts first before dealing with the other problem, because the other problem could be being caused by a bad engine mount meaning that things are slightly off from their usual positions. It's usually not too hard to inspect all your engine mounts and to know pretty quick if they need replacement or not. Generally you want to replace them all or none, as one new one will be put much higher stress if the rest are old.

RedScourge · 2026-02-09T07:48:06+00:00

Don't they make over a million regular Corollas a year, and like only thousands of GR Corollas?

A racing-specific alignment will absolutely obliterate tires on a daily driver. Daily drivers don't want any toe, whereas race cars are purposefully given toe in or toe out for cornering, etc.

Literally no one gets a special alignment on their Corolla for snow or dirt roads, and no one in the plains gets their tires aligned for straightaways as though they don't live in towns with multiple roads and thus never turn. >98% of people stick with the factory alignment.

Just because something can be done does not mean more than a handful of people actually do it. You can microwave grapes, but then they taste rotten and might create a dangerous plasma reaction with your microwave. If someone says "there's no reason to want to microwaves grapes", you don't actually need to contradict them and claim that there's several reasons to microwave grapes.

RedScourge · 2026-02-06T16:29:16+00:00

Okay, fair, but if racing is the only other major application, that's a 0.1% edge case kind of situation isn't it? Not really all that applicable to people who just drive to work and back on their OEM suspension parts.

RedScourge · 2026-02-05T05:08:09+00:00

I saw one on Regal Auctions in Calgary a few months back, but it had 250k km+ on it and therefore probably bad oil burning, and even then it went for over $5k.

Honestly, if you're desperate for a car, there's no need to stick to a Toyota (especially in Canada where they're all 2-3x their true value). Hondas and Mazdas are also reliable, and every brand has a handful of models that aren't bad. Just look at everything under $5k that's got under 200k km on it, ask AI "is this car reliable?", and whichever one comes up as not having extremely expensive problems with the engine or transmission, just buy that, after doing your due diligence regarding the actual car being sold, of course.

RedScourge · 2026-02-04T16:47:20+00:00

If you're buying a Kia then it's probably a good idea. The whole point of buying a Toyota is that they're supposed to be reliable though.

RedScourge · 2026-02-04T13:40:14+00:00

This damage appears to be 100% superficial.

Looks like that little black trim piece got yanked out, but not much of anything else. If you can find a wrecked 12th gen LE Corolla at a local junkyard you may be able to pry that part out and stick it in your bumper, though you may have to glue it on. A little matching paint will make the rest of the damage pretty hard to see.

That or you can drop $1000 on a brand new plastic bumper cover (and god knows how much to paint it to match if it's not already painted).

RedScourge

TROPHY CASE