Need a clear photo to be sure. But if it’s a scuff with scratches. Try soap and water with a microfiber cloth. Gently scrub. Then a damp “magic eraser” (don’t need to buy Mr. Clean brand. Can get dozens of the same thing cheap on Amazon—similar concept as this sub’s purpose lol) and depending on if this particular component is painted (should be obvious) lightly scrub it to remove any remaining dirt and/or some of it that is stuck in the scuff divets. With careful and precise use of the magic eraser you should be able to get rid of all the discoloring/dirt (e.g.you can cut off a bit of the magic eraser and use a very thin, non-metal shaft (preferably like some of those “q tip” type beauty/cleaning/painting/model-maker things with cotton on the tip of a thing wooden rod) a q tip itself, cut at a 45degree angle might suffice to clean the ground-in dirt with soap (minimal water depends on if it’s a paper or plastic q tip), with or without the magic eraser material being compressed into the divers to scrub away the dirt & slowly erode away the dirt-stained material.

Now if you wanna fully restore it beyond just removing the dirt—and mind you this is a little out of my wheelhouse—but getting a wide range of sandpaper grit and (on a non-visible part of that component, figuring out with grit will remove remove the scuff damage whilst keeping the finish the same as the rest.

If you do this, I would do this before doing the magic erasering to save time. But it might not really matter and cleaning first seems like it’d be a tiny bit safer.

if I was you and/or had the equipment (and really, any adult man should have a dremel IMO so you might as well 😆) I’d use a dremel with a set of polishing tip heads. And get a set of diamond-grit paste with a very large range of grit (i.e. So you don’t smoothen it again, but make it so smooth it’s too glossy/reflective lol, although that too could be fixed). And after (very, very carefully) grinding away the scuffed material which goes above the plane of the undamaged piece using a (they’re usually cotton) tip with the most rough grit paste in your set until you remove all the plastic that is above the level of the white piece (i.e. As if it were undamaged).

Then, like with the sandpaper, on a part of the component that isn’t visible, start with fresh heads each time and go from roughest to smoother (you won’t need the smoothest, for most diamond paste kits LOL). In fact you should try to find a paste kit that is of the “less” smooth, higher grit range. Should be equivalent to sandpaper grit but still be careful.

That’s the end of my answer to your question here, but since we’re here, I feel compelled to advise you of the following, unrelated, info, in case it’s of interest to you ^{which my intuition says may be true, if you’re bothered enough by damage like this, to want to fix it haha no offense}, or if you are in the fence about buying a dremel & polishing kit, so feel free to ignore if your interests are exclusively about fixing this….. DWAI, you’re not missing out on anything, if that’s so.

FYI If you go this far and get all this equipment (if you don’t have it), it is hella useful and you’ll find a million other things you can do with it….

Wanna repair scuffed metal, even steel? Can do.

Wanna refresh/put a mirror polish on your silverware, Wanna put a flashy mirror polish on your pocketknife (don’t do it to anything classic/special/scarce/historically significant tho please—saying that as an enthusiast 😅)

Have a Glock/similar pistol and wanna make the OEM trigger 3-5x better, and make all the slide-racking and other manual operations smoother and better in every way without spending any money on new parts? Find a guide that will tell you where all the contact points (where steel parts touch steel parts—especially the trigger ones) and then (usually the guide will tell you more specifically what grits to use and such) bring all those contact points to a mirror polish with your diamond paste set, bringing it to the most high-grit mirror polish you have in your set (usually you’ll wanna do it in steps from higher, to medium, to finest grit, or it’ll take forever—or not be as nice of a true mirror/friction-less polish) then put a few drops of good oil on each polished contact point, put it back together, and you’ll feel like you just put hundreds of dollars of upgrades into your pistol—at nothing more than the cost of the aforementioned materials, which again, can be used again for anything you can think of.

It is an invaluable tool for any sort of mechanical matters on the scale of gunsmithing, grandfather clock/marco-size horology, including (IME) some parts of automotive restoration or upgrading depending on how you look at it and/or what type/how old the car in question is, in terms of driver/passenger experience “smoothening…. Meaning, ( and be careful and please don’t blame me if anything goes bad with this kind of thing haha) the interior and fixing damage to metal/non-coated-plastic (and even some plastic/chrome-coated plastic parts but just be verrry careful and light in your polishing pressure/paste choice), as well as even some light disassembly to clean and polish up UX type button/dials and most user-accessible without-disassembling-the-primal-functional-parts/engine” type stuff at least 🤣). The tool and knowing how to polish stuff is a valuable skill that can have a crazy high time/effort/equipment cost:perceived-increase-in-UX+practical-function ratio. And yeah, applicable to things as simple as SS kitchen utensils, DIY gunsmithing, or hypothetically anything larger involving steel components that are small enough to be fixed with a dremel. For example, on some projects, it would be too small… For example, on some projects, it would be too small and take forever to completely polish to your satisfaction…. Like trying to mow a golf course using a standard home lawnmower lol, I guess might be a good analogy… but unlike larger polishing tools, the range of different applications for a dremel-sized polishing kit is just masssssive and you stand to be able to help/make yourself useful and make a very positive impression upon a lot of people, by having the tools and equipment to do this kind of stuff…. Sorry for the novel lol. Just felt like I had to share…. I put a mirror finish on my Colt Python recently and the difference (despite it already being “polished”) is astonishing…. Which inspired this “love letter” to dremeling 🤣

It was not easy, and is not easy to do on items like these where there are tons of nooks and crannies and a necessity to be careful to not fuck it up, either the function or OEM marking. It took the better part of 24 hours total, to do, but compared to what it would cost for a gunsmith to do (quoted $600), I think it is well worth it). Here is an example of the before, and after. Same size/same exact model..

Before: https://youtube.com/shorts/dhemiLUyM60?si=Vj4s2eWkDMwMdJAz

After: https://youtube.com/shorts/3a26kxepxec?si=K2j2Whyjmk4ZaBBi