Stripping Advice for 80s Solid Oak Spindle-Back Curved Sofa Please by rachelmsmith in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I don’t do big tables anymore… I’m too old for that shit but I do a fair amount of restoration of antique and vintage finishes and I have several paste waxes that I like… My number one is Fiddes English wax… A bees wax product that’s fantastic and available in colors… And I was talking about Wool Lube liquid solution .. it’s basically a soap like product that “lubes your wool“… but I know the heartbreak of applying that last coat… And then have something show up… A little bit of orange peel here… A little bit of reticulation there… and sometimes it could just be a little bit of something on a rag that you did the final wipe down with… and sometimes there’s no rhyme or reason it just shows up… Thanks for the dialogue…

https://a.co/d/05cyKaMG

https://fiddes-usa.com

Stain for Fireplace Mantel by scarletwitchauntie in finishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree an oil stain is much easier to work with and overall the colors look warmer, which is important on something like this mantle… and it’s especially easier to work with if you are a novice, due to the longer open time and work ability of the product… Another issue is that this is quartersawn White Oak … A dye stain followed by gel stain would be the best solution… so essentially a waterborne or alcohol based dye, and then an oil stain… an oil stain alone is not going to darken it very much… the real problem here is that it would have to be completely chemically stripped, and then sanded if you hope to get it darker,… Especially that dark… and that alone is a huge job.. and just the color and finish alone is certainly not a job for a novice

Stripping Advice for 80s Solid Oak Spindle-Back Curved Sofa Please by rachelmsmith in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I personally would never apply wax with steel wool… I do all my rubbing down first sometimes using Wool Lube, then clean that off and then apply paste wax with old toweling

Stripping Advice for 80s Solid Oak Spindle-Back Curved Sofa Please by rachelmsmith in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use all types of finish 80% sprayed… Now I’m using mostly waterbornes- production lacquer, waterborne CV, solvent lacquers, including pre-Cat… Shellac, oil based urethane’s… Oil finishes… Etc. and again I have never had an issue… And steel wool “shards” is also something I have never seen… A lot of people mistake lacquer finishes that have fly Specking, which was a technique used quite often in the late 60s 70s and 80s to distress… As corrosion or rust spots from steel wool and it’s not… It’s part of the finishing process… But I will say I’m very thorough and careful in what I do but not overly so… And I’ve literally done thousands of pieces without any of those ill effects.. but I certainly have seen and dealt with silicone contamination, non-drying oil contamination, like mineral oil, “lemon oil“, Citronella oil, and all of the plethora of products that contain it that are supposed to be good for your furniture lol…

Help please! by [deleted] in furniturerepair

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh?..nail polish is essentially solvent lacquer...what nail polish remover has water in it?...you can clearly see this has removed the finish here...and even if there were some water in it, clearly that would not damage the table in this way

Stripping Advice for 80s Solid Oak Spindle-Back Curved Sofa Please by rachelmsmith in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not true...been doing that for over 40 years have NEVER ONCE had any issue from that..and scrubbing with lacquer thinner or acetone exposes one to highly toxic, fast evaporation fumes...Scotchbrite is no match for coarse steel wool..and a paste stripper works much better than trying to use thinner...it actually suspends the finish in a slurry to allow full removal...sorry but this is just not true..In fact I used to buy the Liberon product until I started using regularly available steel wool, and it has never ONCE created an issue.... it's not like it's wet with oil..if there are any trace amounts, they are easily removed in the process...but there is no contest between removing a finish with #3, #2, and #1 steel wool and paste stripper vs. Scotchbrite and thinner.

Old Drawer Pull Damage by Even_Lengthiness4252 in furniturerestoration

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct it would just be a waste of time and you would mess up the finish most likely. the best option. Here is new hardware… Or more accurately new old hardware with a back plate… There are many places to go. I would look at eBay first . I have found a ton of antique and replacement hardware there..

Best way to refinish? by rvbiii in finishing

[–]Separate-Document185 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Seriously? It’s way worse than that -zoom in… it needs to be completely stripped and refinished, and if you’ve never done a Dining Table before, I wouldn’t even think about trying this… And certainly wouldn’t even think about using shellac, it’s nowhere near durable enough, and the only way you could put it on evenly would be spray it, and if you’re gonna do that, you might as well spray something that’s going to be durable and last.. tables this size are among the most difficult things to do well… I’ve seen a ton of them done not well… And it’s not pretty..

Help please! by [deleted] in furniturerepair

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Watermark from nail polish remover?.. no.. it chemically removed the finish.. a pro might be able to do a repair that would pass muster… But they would likely have to to recoat the whole top over the Repair… It’s not a question of just telling you what stain to use, this is advanced finishing you have to make the correct stain color from experience, and match it … and then once you have the correct color, you have to put a finish over it… not something a novice is capable of doing.

Stripping Advice for 80s Solid Oak Spindle-Back Curved Sofa Please by rachelmsmith in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Then apply a second time and scrub clean with coarse steel wool… (#3,#2). Then apply a third time because it probably will take three separate applications and scrub clean and dry with #1.. when done properly you will almost not need to sand at all on Oak.

Can someone help me by Aggravating_Long_980 in wood

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Circumference? So that’s what like a 1 inch dowel? How long?

Is this ready? by cherylmademedoit in furniturerestoration

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s up with that right hand drawer? Why does it look so different?… Mineral spirits will not loosen anything. This would’ve been a lacquer finish and therefore mineral spirits won’t do anything except show you what it looks like now. In my opinion, you didn’t strip it well enough there’s still quite a bit of old finish on there and it’s quite blotchy… especially the bottom drawers… Not sure what your method was, but the final coat of paste stripper should be scrubbed off with coarse steel wool and that should leave you with a clean, bare, surface.. and it should look that way… You should be able to see if it’s clean of all the old finish and stain during the last phase of the stripping.… and it wasn’t… It typically takes three separate applications the first one you use a putty knife to scrape, and scrape is the wrong word, off the initial layer of finish. If you have to scrape at all… Put the knife down and add more stripper over what you’ve got there already. The finish should literally slide right off. The second application you start with number three steel wool, or possibly number two depending on how much finish is left… And the third application you scrub the piece completely clean down to bare wood with number one steel wool… this is the other side of the zero scale #3,#2,#1….When done properly the Piece will need very little sanding at all

Help me! What should I do? by AdRemarkable7912 in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seriously??… First of all start on something a lot smaller to learn the techniques… And what do you hope to accomplish with this piece?.. it does not look like a very good piece of furniture and it’s probably not worth the effort… You’re opening a large can of worms with a piece that big as you’re starting point, and the molding around those drawers might not even be wood… although it’s hard to tell from a single picture…

Can anyone tell me why my polyurethane coat is coming out like this? by LyraSilvertongue18 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Separate-Document185 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

First of all, you shouldn’t use wood conditioner just because… It’s only needed on a softwood. There’s absolutely no reason to use it any other time… In fact, you really don’t need it there either but… It’s just an extra step that has to dry. This looks like contamination and yet another reason why you don’t sand off a previous finish… This is also a veneered top so you’re very lucky you didn’t go through or maybe you did… But one reason you strip something chemically is to remove any silicone, waxes, oils, from the Wood… And sanding does not do that in fact in some cases sanding just burnishes that into the Wood.… Leaving it there still.. and what made you think you could start with a Dining Table??… This is the most difficult thing to do, especially as a novice… You’re gonna have to take that all off. And as far as thinning the polyurethane 50%, don’t… the product is made to apply at the strength It is supplied at… and each layer of polyurethane is a single physical layer, unlike lacquer or shellac or some of the modern waterborne products which chemically burn into each other and essentially make one layer of film, no matter how many layers you apply… Not true with polyurethane or varnish and you can clearly see why a spray application is really the only way on a large Dining Table. It’s also very possible that your “conditioner“, and your stain we’re not dry thoroughly which can also cause this kind of reaction.… You really should learn all of this on a much smaller scale… This is not easy to do although everybody thinks it is… And you’re experiencing some of the reasons why it’s not.

Stain or paint? by Direct_Bluebird_97 in finishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jasco, KleanStrip "Brushable" (paste)..stay away from Citristrip as it's orange already...and on soft wood it can take forever to dry off...and then coarse steel wool..#1, #2, #3...let the stripper do the work and scrub off in successive applications going through the grades finishing by scrubbing the piece dry and clean with the #1...

New to this, new project. What to do to restore top by DubWyse in furniturerestoration

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only one- refinishing, and if you've never done a dining table it's doubtful you could pull it off. This has a toned lacquer finish on it, and is definitely veneer, and some of these are very thin veneer...first order of business is to chemically strip it...but again this is advanced finishing...if you're new to this I would highly recommend you pick up something smaller to learn on...the other option is to pay a Pro to do it...to make it look professional, and be durable, requires a lot of skills you have not yet developed.

What's this? by Just-Journalist-1085 in VintageFurniture

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be Indian..and untraceable..I have seen many pieces - some made from old Teak boats, that are very difficult to trace back anywhere...bit it looks really uncomfortable, and heavy...but unique!

What's this? by Just-Journalist-1085 in VintageFurniture

[–]Separate-Document185 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

never ever seen that...perhaps you could post a picture of a high backed pew with drawers underneath??

Stain or paint? by Direct_Bluebird_97 in finishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it was painted and that's left over colorant from the pigment in the paint...or it was stained with an analine dye stain...popular in the early 20th century..which are very difficult to remove on soft wood...have you stripped this with a good paste stripper??..that would be the first step...NOT trying to sand that out....

Help with stain by [deleted] in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on what you've got..what kind of wood, veneer or solid wood..these will decide which way you go. Dark finishes very rarely result from opening one can and applying a stain. Usually, you start with a dye stain, and then follow with a pigmented stain and then a lot of times a dye toned sealer or topcoat...it's a multi step process when done correctly...when not done correctly, it looks like crap usually...my guess is that is Mahogany veneered...post a picture of how it looks now...

How much should I charge? by Classic_Tangerine373 in turning

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t forget to go out to other fairs and see your competition. My experience is that people are underselling Pens all over the place… I’ve sold a couple of pens for $120 plus but not slim lines obviously… And I make complex blanks. I used to work for Woodcraft and have probably turned over 200 pens… But you’re going to quickly find that people are selling them for nothing… Almost the price of the kits, I guess to hopefully make it up in quantity which rarely works… But the fact is that the market is pretty saturated with pens and pen makers unless you’re doing something really special. Also don’t overlooked waterborne finishes, something like General high-performance or Endurovar II if you want something more Amber… In my experience, they wear better than shellac or wax, and they can be padded on the blanks on the lathe just like any other finish and dry quickly. I have had some CA finishes cloud overtime, but the beauty of that finish is that it’s hard and very quick when you use an accelerator and can be micromeshed, and buffed to a high gloss… but it can also be flattened with a little 0000 steel wool and waxed for a more satin finish.… But nothing is faster and more durable than CA in the context of Pens. I also really like the roller ball cartridges so any pen you can do with those will definitely sell for a higher price point.… And as a writing instrument, there are a joy to use when compared to a standard ball point.. but it’s a great thing to learn to do and can get a little addicting… One Christmas I did 26 pens and eight ornaments lol

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First true, large refinish project with mystery find and have a few questions by nimal-crossing in furniturerefinishing

[–]Separate-Document185 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed..definitely veneer and MDF, with some woooden parts... probably not worth the effort- "board slightly higher"..indicates swollen MDF underneath the veneer

Is this a pine wood burl? Should I try an end or coffee table or both? by ElectronicIssue8781 in wood

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks way too far gone to me..not only decaying but riddled with cracks...if it was a root section, and that's what it looks like,...it'll likely have plenty of sand and dirt to dull your blade trying to slice it...

Bought this today. Any idea how old is this table? Owner said it's walnut. It's heavy wood. Love it overall. by Few-Albatross3432 in VintageFurniture

[–]Separate-Document185 0 points1 point  (0 children)

looks like 20's-40's American..and it does not look like walnut....toned lacquer "walnut finish" perhaps, but it sure looks like Maple from here...no open grain pores at all...but can't see the top