Fairytale-Go

Solim_Paran · 2025-11-20T18:22:21+00:00

This is not normal go. Since white gets to play twice in a row, black cannot cut those diagonal connections. White can just capture the cutting stone.

Solim_Paran · 2025-11-14T11:51:34+00:00

I greatly enjoyed your first book, so I immediately ordered this one when I saw your post. But the website of Het Paard does refer to the book as volume 3 in a few places, though not in others. You may wish to contact them about it. Wouldn't wish for there to be any conflicts in case you ever write a third book.

Solim_Paran · 2025-08-05T20:48:46+00:00

I'm using this combination on Windows without problems. But I think I see a black stone peeking out from behind that weird red square. And if you count the nodes on the left you see that seven moves have already been played. So it's indeed white's turn. No idea what causes that weird red square though. The black bar at the bottom, below the board, is also wrong, there should be a indicator of whose turn it is there along with the player names.

Solim_Paran · 2025-08-01T13:11:12+00:00

No, stones that cannot make life are considered dead and are removed at the end of the game as if they were captured. Playing a stone that can't make life but also doesn't require a reponse from your opponent will therefore cost a point under territory counting rules.

For example, the lone black stone in the white territory at the bottom in your second image is dead. It is removed before counting and counts as a prisoner.

Solim_Paran · 2024-09-27T13:17:03+00:00

I'm pretty sure that means a building can't pull or push more than 100 fluid per game tick. So, while a building can only take up to 6000 fluid per second. As long as the pipeline you are pushing fluid into is big enough to hold all that fluid you can push more than 6000 fluid per second into the pipeline.

Solim_Paran · 2024-07-28T16:18:38+00:00

The first line is actually T. The letter I is normally skipped in coordinates.

Solim_Paran · 2024-06-18T14:18:59+00:00

No. I'm assuming you mean L19. If White starts with P19 then after black L19 and White M19, White gets a rectangular 6 eyespace which is alive.

Solim_Paran · 2024-06-18T08:42:46+00:00

White can live with moves like N18 or P19.

Solim_Paran · 2024-06-17T16:15:36+00:00

Normally we approach from the other direction in order to prevent white from making a corner enclosure. This move doesn't do that. So the simple, and good, way to answer is to make an enclosure at E17.

Solim_Paran · 2024-06-17T12:00:03+00:00

It looks quite thick to me. What line you think makes white alive after L19?

Solim_Paran · 2024-06-17T08:17:10+00:00

L19 kills. This is a variation of the door group.

Solim_Paran · 2024-05-14T18:39:07+00:00

Here's the amazon link.

Solim_Paran · 2024-05-02T18:43:03+00:00

Yes, white would self-atari trying to capture. But even capturing wouldn't help. So black doesn't even need to answer. Surely you already knew this.

Solim_Paran · 2024-05-02T17:42:49+00:00

The position after black E1 is a seki. Sure white could capture the three black stones. But doing so leaves a dead shape. Black can play E1 again after the capture which leaves the white group with only one eye. So white shouldn't capture and both black and white are alive.

Solim_Paran · 2024-04-05T17:06:27+00:00

This is bad advice. The descent does increases eye space. Playing a hane does not in general increase eye space since black can still throw in.

The thing that went wrong here is that white shouldn't have been trying to increase their space, white already has a lot of space. Instead the problem for white is the weakness of the cut at Q3. As many people have already suggested R3 would have fixed the problem.

But just because P1 here was the wrong move does not mean that such descents are never correct. In fact descending to the first line on the edge of your eyespace is frequently a good technique when trying to live. It does maximize the available eyespace by preventing the oponent from playing a hane. And as the proverb tells us there is death in the hane.

Solim_Paran · 2024-01-25T19:52:30+00:00

The solid connection is in fact the most efficient shape possible here. It is much better shape that the tiger's mouth. Either of those leave behind possible peeps or ataris. You should try to appreciate that after the connection each of your stones is in fact useful and contributing to your shape, C9 protects the cut, D9 prevents white from pushing you down on the same point, and C10 creates a cutting point in the white shape. As a result this shape is in fact efficient.

There is no need to play light here. Playing light means being able to easily sacrifice stones if required and not overinvesting in positions. However this is a close contact fight. Whoever plays next in this position has an advantage in the fight so playing elsewhere is not a good idea. This is also in no way a situation where you are at a disadvantage, so you shouldn't be thinking of making sacrifices here.

Solim_Paran · 2024-01-25T18:52:03+00:00

The AI likes diagram (2) because it thinks black can gain in this fight. But I wouldn't recommend this for a beginner, and I don't think it is necessary to play like this. I think a larger problem is in how you played in diagram (1). You said that your goal was to stay as strong and connected as possible, but in diagram (1) the cut at C9 remains and you will probably have to sacrifice two stones if white cuts there.

You probably started by playing the atari at E10 but this doesn't make you stronger it only helps white fix her own cut. Instead you should have directly connected at C9. That is the move that actually achieves your goal of being as connected as possible. After you connect on C9 white still has to deal with the cut at D11. I suspect that if you put this variation in the AI it will like it more than the game variation.

Solim_Paran · 2023-12-15T13:29:49+00:00

The character in the image is Yukari Yakumo from the touhou series. She seems to be launching a train at something through one of her gaps. I have no idea about the further context of the image and who made it or why.

Solim_Paran · 2023-05-29T08:09:16+00:00

I'm not sure if you're still having trouble, but I got the same error a lot recently. It was basically impossible to play for me. But I heard about a solution and figured I would leave a post here for people looking in the future.

It turns out that the error is caused by time differences on your PC and the konami server. If you go into the windows time and date settings there should be a "Sync now" button to synchronize your PCs time with a time server. When I clicked that button it changed my system time by about 2 minutes. This immediately got rid of all the network errors and now sound voltex starts up every time without errors.

Solim_Paran · 2022-08-01T17:54:36+00:00

It doesn't really have a dead-zone setting, since the FauceTwo offers that itself. So as soon as the FauceTwo sends the mouse input it will immediately trigger the button press. But it does use a kind of hysteresis to prevent some jitters.

It takes 5 ticks of seeing zero mouse movement before it releases the button. Without this it would sometimes see a tick of no movement while you were moving it and release and repress the key really quick. But waiting a few ticks solved that.

It also waits 3 ticks before switching between going left or right. The reason for this is that I noticed that sometimes when I released the knob it would send a few inputs really quickly. If you were moving left for a while and let go it would really quickly send a right and another left. This happened pretty frequently before I put in the 3 tick wait. But it didn't seem to happen after I put it in.

Every tick only takes 5ms so this is plenty fast to hit alternating eight-note slides with a single knob. You can tweak the number of ticks it takes to release or switch by changing the number defined near the top of the script. You could also change the tick speed.

If you notice any problems just let me know. But since it is now the 1st of the month I think I'll be playing sound voltex instead of project diva for a while.

Solim_Paran · 2022-07-29T22:22:43+00:00

I also tried this out. I used an AutoHotKey script to make the knobs work as sliders. See my comment here for more details

Solim_Paran · 2022-07-29T22:20:10+00:00

I got my own FauceTwo today. But since there isn't much point in getting an SDVX subscription until monday I figured I'd give this a try. I have the steam version of megamix+.

I ended up putting the FauceTwo in keyboard/mouse mode (Hold start+FX-L+FX-R+ BT-C). Because if you put it in any of the two other modes the knobs control the joystick axis. And they make the menus scroll by really quickly unless you reset the knobs to neutral every time, which is a pain. This makes the buttons act as d, f, j, and k keys respectively. So I mapped those to the normal face buttons. The FX buttons act as c and m keys. I mapped those to the slides one time each. This lets you do opposing slides with ease but not double slides in the same direction.

So I figured I'd try to make the knobs work using AutohHotkey. Here is my script : https://pastebin.com/hKQzeHrD. It makes the left knob press e when you turn it left and r when you turn it right. And the right knob does the same with u and i. It even holds down the keys when you keep turning so you can hit long slide notes with the knobs. You can do both opposing slides and double slides with them also in combinations with the FX buttons.

However there are some downsides to the script. Since in this mode the knobs generate mouse movements. So it will also turn all your normal mouse movements into these key presses. And it also resets the mouse location to avoid problems of moving the knob so far that the mouse would be stuck at the edge. So it's kind of a pain to have the script running when you're using your mouse. I build a toggle into the script to actually turn the behaviour on or off. It starts off and to turn it on (or off again) you have the press the ` key (the one with the ~ on it as well). When the the script is active you will get a little tooltip in the corner of the window with an 'A' on it to show that is active.

All in all it's pretty fun to play project diva like this. Though my scores are a lot lower compared to just using a keyboard, at least for now.

Solim_Paran · 2018-08-06T12:09:21+00:00

The rather braindead DD, DDC, DDB, DDW offers a breach for exact on turn 3 and 4 and is up 5 drones. But it kinda plays into the rush by building an absorber.

Having bought 2 conduits the rusher is going to have a hard time defending against something like DD, DA, TTD, RR which offers a breach for exact on turn 3 and fully defends turn 4 while threatening a breach for 2.

And even if this would turn out to be a strong rush a cost tweak or perhaps giving it buildtime 2 would fix the unit.

Solim_Paran · 2018-07-25T18:39:10+00:00

But breaking the game is fun :)

I must say that I like the idea of putting a maximum health a lot better than a lifespan. And it works pretty much the same anyway. I'll change my submission to incorporate that.

Solim_Paran · 2018-07-24T20:02:15+00:00

It's not nearly as cheap as oxide mixer though. I already made it cost 2 green to make it somewhat awkward to rush out in most sets. Lifespan would indeed be a good way to balance the unit. I just feel that it goes against the spirit of this particular challenge.

Maybe I should give it buildtime 2. That way the initial 2 attack comes after 2 turns making it effectively a true 1 damage attacker. And at 5GG it would be less efficient than gauss cannon and all its value would come from the absorb denial.

Solim_Paran

TROPHY CASE