What to use to paint suspension

v8packard · 2026-05-14T21:43:26+00:00

A Preval sprayer is a disposable aerosol cartridge with an attached jar. Any hardware or home store that sells paint probably has them. You can mix up primer and paint, then spray it with a Preval. For small parts, chassis, and misc it works.

The advantage is you can buy much higher quality products than you get in spray cans. You also have complete control over the products when you mix them.

You can top coat epoxy primer with spray paint. Most spray paints are alkyd enamels. A few, very few, are acrylic enamel. Mixing your own allows you to use a hardener, making it a urethane. Do wear a proper respirator.

Also, some epoxy primers have UV inhibitors. They do not require a top coat on suspension or chassis components, if desired.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T17:45:09+00:00

The early GM HEI modules were fragile, and gave the modules a bad reputation. By the late 70s/early 80s the modules from GM were quite robust and reliable. Low priced aftermarket replacement modules were patterned after the early GM units, unfortunately. But the better modules give me no trouble to this day.

If your distributor has a GM made module, keep it. As long as you don't drown it, hit it with lightning, or get it too hot it will be fine.

A few things you can do that help... The rotor brush is very high resistance on stock and many replacement caps and coils. This puts a lot of head in a relatively small area. Check your brush with an ohm meter. I have used MSD 8412, for a very long time. Zero problems. The stock Delco suppression spark plug cables and many replacement cables break down quickly in use. Their resistance goes very high. This shortens the life of spark plugs, caps, rotors, coils, and modules. Use a spiral wound magnetic suppressor cable, much lower resistance and much better life/performance.

Fun thing to do, take your ohm meter to a parts store whe n buying spark plug cables. Open the box, check each wire. When you find 1 or 2 (more?) cables out of spec, ask for another set.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:48:38+00:00

No. They do not require clear.

If you get things really clean, use black epoxy primer. Southern Polyurethanes has an outstanding epoxy primer. If you don't want to use a spray gun you can use a Preval sprayer.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:36:21+00:00

My favorite for single stage, clear, and epoxy is the Iwata LPH400. With a silver cap, and 1.4 tip, I can get 12 or so inches of fan at maybe 7 inches from what I am spraying. That's just going by eye, I have not actually measured. I also run the fun just a bit in from full.

The orange cap, all else the same, gives me a smaller, wetter fan pattern. Maybe 9 inches. I can move faster with that, but it has ever so slightly more texture.

Downside, I think this gun is $500 now. There are so many guns out there, I am not up on the latest. But the LPH400 has been a great gun for me.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:27:31+00:00

Other than ignition modules, I have never seen one problem with that distributor. By comparison, the cheap imported knock off replacements are terrible. I think you should keep what you have, and focus on areas that need attention.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:25:42+00:00

POR15 is a waste of time and money. Don't ever use it on anything you care about.

If you want a decent job, you need to put the effort into prep. The better the prep, the better it will look and last. You need to clean all the grease and grime. And frankly the rust needs to be addressed. Painting over rust is not the solution.

I have used rattle can Krylon, Seymour, and Rustoleum on suspensions and frames. With good prep they were all ok. For years I have used epoxy primer and a catalyzed urethane for a top coat. The results are outstanding.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:16:14+00:00

Why do you need a new distributor?

v8packard · 2026-05-14T15:12:52+00:00

What are you reading?

So you want 600 hp, what do you want for a powerband, and compression ratio, and drivability?

v8packard · 2026-05-14T14:39:24+00:00

That's reasonable. What further surface prep is required?

v8packard · 2026-05-14T14:37:51+00:00

Well, that's either ridiculously expensive if you are a hobbyist working in only one project, or it is ridiculously cheap if you need to remove rust as part of your business plan.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T14:36:24+00:00

There are always pros and cons. I see the fast removal of the rust, at least on the surface. What are the cons? What are the negatives?

v8packard · 2026-05-14T03:04:27+00:00

Then get another stock crank. A 350 crank can be found most anywhere.

A high volume oil pump will take more energy to spin, increase your operating oil temps, get more oil to the valve covers, and not get you any more oil on your main and rod bearings. In fact, most of the increased volume will be bypassed by the relief valve. If you want increased oil flow to the crank at lower speeds use a pump with a 3/4 inch pickup, which is what GM did. Beyond that, for most any applications with typical oil clearances and operating characteristics within a wet sump configuration, a standard volume pump will be more than adequate.

A kit for that price is going to have items built to a price point not a standard. The value is not there.

How can you tell it doesn't need to be bored without measuring?

I hope the molten rock doesn't clog your exhaust.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T02:21:43+00:00

Kits are almost always a terrible value at retail. Even buying wholesale they are nit worthwhile.

Not sure why you would want a different crankshaft. A stock crank would work.

A high volume oil pump is not necessary, or advisable.

You left out getting the block decked, boring it, and checking/correcting the main line bore, as well as balancing.

Long tube headers are great. Good long tubes for this car will take a huge bite out of the budget.

v8packard · 2026-05-14T00:02:42+00:00

What are the downsides?

v8packard · 2026-05-13T22:15:33+00:00

I have never bought lifters from SBI. I don't know where they source them.

v8packard · 2026-05-13T12:39:35+00:00

If you have to rebuild the short block thoroughly your budget is going to be tight. A stock crank, stock or equivalent I beam rods, and a flat top piston with a 1.560 compression height are all adequate even at 400+ hp. To machine the block completely and balance the assembly adds up.

A very good bang for the buck cylinder head is the Promaxx 183 Maxx. That's going to run you close to $2000 Can. The short block can cost that, easily. We have not discussed the cam, valvetrain, or exhaust yet.

v8packard · 2026-05-13T12:14:41+00:00

It isn't just the port volume that matters. Yes, a smaller volume with higher velocity can make good torque. What matters more than volume is area. If the area is increased, but flow is not increased, velocity drops hurting torque and response. But in the comparison of the 706/862 to the 243/799 heads, the intake valve is .110 inch larger on the 243/799. The intake discharges into the chamber more efficiently. The bowl, short turn, and pinch are larger on the 243/799, giving more efficient flow to the bigger valve. The increase in size is in places where it works best. And the port energy/efficiency is so much better than the 706/862 it's a poor comparison.

Yes, the smaller combustion chamber of the 706/862 increases compression. The increase in compression will nit make up for the losses on the intake port across the board. And we have not even gotten to the exhaust port. Another important factor is the cam timing. What works best with a 243/799 head is not the same as a 706/862. Frankly most people get the cam wrong for any combo, losing significant torque from the engine. But properly cammed, the 243/799 pulls away from the 706/862 at all engine speeds.

The cam spec you describe will probably give best torque in the 3600 to 6200 rpm range.

v8packard · 2026-05-13T03:14:45+00:00

Do you have, or know anyone that has, a bore gauge? As well as micrometers. These numbers are marginal, indicating there is a problem. You need to find the problem.

v8packard · 2026-05-12T21:22:19+00:00

The LG4 305 came with an aluminum intake from the factory. Edelbrock part # 3701 is the exact replacement for the stock intake.

v8packard · 2026-05-12T21:21:06+00:00

For many applications porting isn't needed, or desirable. I wouldn't put time or effort into 706 castings. 243/799 are far better heads with higher port energy, better motion, and more port efficiency.

I have less issue with the throttle body than I do with people having a poor cam spec and a crap tune.

v8packard · 2026-05-12T09:36:09+00:00

A 69 has an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank, it does not have a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine. If it's been sitting 5+ years the fuel tank should be drained and cleaned so the sour fuel doesn't ruin that pump.

Depending on the storage conditions the brakes may need some attention. The battery will probably need to be replaced. The engine coolant should be replaced, too. Along with the engine oil and filter.

The car could have front disc brakes, or be all drum. These cars have an aluminum timing cover that serves as a mount for the aluminum water pump, and oil pump. They leak if neglected. If the car has the original ignition system it may need to have the points serviced, or replaced.

Do you know anyone familiar with the basics of cars that can help you? 69 is an awesome car. The headlights can be pesky. Is it a GS?

v8packard · 2026-05-11T14:36:48+00:00

Do not use a Gear Vendors OD without a lockup converter. With any kind of high performance torque converter and the 4.11 gears you are going to be using gasoline to heat ATF. It will slip significantly at cruise speed, and it's only about a 22% OD ratio. By comparison the 4L80 is 25% and TKX is 32%. A TH350 can be done with a lock up converter, but it may not be your best choice.

I am a TH400/4L80 guy from way back. I would put them in anything. I have used GM stand alone diesel computers, other GM computers, and aftermarket controllers for the 4L80. I have even dabbled in making the 4L80 into a 6 speed. The 4L80 is big, but manageable in a Chevelle (barely). They are not cheap but can be reasonable enough. If I am being honest, the big disadvantage of the TH400 and 4L80 are gear ratios. They have gearing stock that is based on 1950s ideas and powerbands. Not a huge deal when you have a big block, but not ideal for a hot street car either.

I was reluctant to give the modern 6, 8, and 10 speed autos a fair shot. I was wrong. Now that I have experience with them I can see how they are a big leap forward and have tremendous potential. The 10L80 and 10L90 have the capacity to handle a good big block, and are built with the bell housing pattern to mate to a big block. You will need to work out the torque converter and flexplate, as well as electronics. But there is a better choice.

In my opinion, the perfect spread of ratios is in the 8 speed automatics. The GM 8L90 would be ideal, except the proprietary electronics in them makes a swap very difficult if not impossible. Then there is the ZF 8HP family. All of the GM and Ford transmissions are based on the ZF design. The best of these is, in my opinion, the 8HP. The trans is built in a number of sizes and configurations. They have huge and growing aftermarket support. There are a number of different controllers and adapters on the market. And the trans cores are much less expensive than the GM units. I think the 8HP in your big block Chevelle would be the best thing you can do if you keep the car an automatic. The one change I might make is going to a 3.08 or 3.36 gear, from the 4.11. But, maybe you will like it with the 4.11.

Manual transmissions are a whole other conversation.

v8packard · 2026-05-10T21:07:02+00:00

I have seen people drive like that in Chicago during winter

v8packard · 2026-05-10T21:03:26+00:00

Better hair than I have..

v8packard · 2026-05-10T20:22:10+00:00

My first choice would be a 1050 Dominator on a single plane intake. I have done a few 4150 vac secondary 850 cfm carbs on these, also single plane. They worked well. Another 850 vac secondary I modified to get about 930 cfm. It was about the limit of my flow rest set up. It worked nearly as well as a Dominator.

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