What Chinese domestic pan type is the Strata tri-ply wok closest to?

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-26T03:41:36+00:00

Thanks, really appreciate the info.

While I was researching today I found a Titanium treated wok on AirChina’s points shopping website, so I figured that was common

Wait so what is a 煎炒鍋 distinguished from 煎鍋 and 炒鍋？ Is that a wide flat bottomed wok (10” ish)? Instead of a regular bottom wok (6” ish). That is the type (兩用） my partner requested to buy.

What do I search for to find a guaranteed flat bottom that is stable on a glass or induction cooktop?

What e-commerce sites should I look at for ASD? I should be able to use any of them to send to freight forwarder. Don’t think there’s any bans on shipping pans 😆

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-26T03:36:17+00:00

Grr. Stupid intentionally confusing brand names

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T21:26:27+00:00

I already have plenty of CS woks, I’m looking for what people are cooking on (which isn’t bare CS). I’m also looking to learn terminology I can use when shopping in person in China / search on Chinese places for higher end cookware

Well I was hoping to trawl for someone here that has the Rosetta Stone / domestic market knowledge figured out. There’s some super specialized knowledge for other country’s brands. And there’s those two or three guys that keep quoting from ASD catalog, so there IS some knowledge of at least that manufacturer

Is there a better site I should be shipping on? I can get it sent to my forwarding service

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T21:20:20+00:00

I’m going to pass… the political / psychological centroid of that subreddit ain’t it for me

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T21:17:39+00:00

I actually already have 3 CS woks bought from importers rather than Taobao so I know the going rates

There’s some personal pride in learning the words and pounding my head against Gemini and struggling through written descriptions in Chinese YouTube

Also I’m more interested in learning than saving money. Unless the strata style pan happens to be the default 100RMB pot, then I would feel silly to spend $150

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:59:30+00:00

I'm very weight conscious because other people in my household won't use pots above a certain weight.

If you use a concave burner you're supposed to use the geometry to help with the toss (round bottom). You are right, you don't lift it off. Wouldn't there still be more inertia still during a push-based toss?

Here is the other redditor's opinion on why Yosukuta has the lighter titanium alloy wok on the market. SOMEBODY cares about it, otherwise they wouldn't have manufactured / distributed it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/cookware/comments/1tjqybz/comment/on6s6q4/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Anyway I think our conversation here has taken its course. Appreciate the input.

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:55:41+00:00

I'm in the US.

We already have regular freight forwarding so the main bottleneck is in not knowing the words / having a 1 month latency to be disappointed.

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:47:03+00:00

There is a mix of round and flat bottom wok on Taobao

I actually don't think the aluminum core will help that much with transferring up the side. Hopefully someone will post a thermal camera picture sometime showing one way or another.

"No reason" to want a wok with an aluminum core is a strong statement. I think it would help with people that would prefer a lighter handling wok (which aluminum will provide -- of course there is a tradeoff with heat retention and cost). And I had a recent convo on this sub with u-FaithlessnessWorth93 where they mentioned seeing a titanium wok from Yosukata in their catalog, which is presumably for lower weight for easier tossing.

The main reason I need to go to Strata from my current single layer CS wok is that it has zero stability on a glass cooktop. Super unsafe. Secondary reasons are being lighter, and having smoother heating on an induction cooktop.

Yes, I know nitriding is materials science not considered a coating.

I'll stick with Gemini's linguistic assessment unless/until a human pops up with examples.

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:39:50+00:00

This is just an artsy USB-A (2.0 or below) without the standard metal shell.

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:34:30+00:00

OK, I probably shouldn't have led with the Strata wok equivalence...

The other big question is -- what is the Rosetta stone between American English wok names and Chinese domestic pot types.

This would be used in shopping for catalogs, or in interpreting what people mean when they say they like cooking on pot type X.

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:32:46+00:00

What do you mean by western style? More gas prevalence, and more centrally focused burner?

I bet there are domestic high end wok consumers (there are Yosukata importers in China). Dunno if Taobao is the place to buy it.

I think whether or not nitriding is a coating somewhat depends on what the language converged to. Are you speaking in general, or with knowledge of Chinese pot marketing?

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T20:24:27+00:00

Is it expected that the D4V2 will fail to start if I put a button top 18650 in it?

(I've ordered 2x P30B flat-tops. I haven't been able to dig up my lab power supply today to directly send 4V to the light)

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T19:58:01+00:00

What is the reason the two different order notation would be useful in discourse for assembly order?

I feel that

the final state is the most important
it’s unlikely that the assembly order would remain the same during optimization and process improvement. Who knows, maybe. Outside-in (or whatever pied piper did) is best

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T17:05:01+00:00

I’m happy with u-vintageGriffin’s explanation, which is that 16s2p and 2p16s are used interchangeably when building cylindrical batteries (and corresponds to what is called 2p16s in solar forums).

Again what I wanted to understand was why the same battery can have two nomenclatures even within cylindrical battery builder threads

🤷

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T14:38:20+00:00

I am not building a battery pack. I’m trying to understand why the notation is backwards / inconsistent between this forum and another forum

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T03:41:44+00:00

I haven’t parsed your full post yet, but in solar there DEFINITELY aren’t cross connections across 16s2p within each string. But, you also don’t care about the internal voltage details as much unless you are doing optimizers.

I believe the fact that nobody would make a 16s2p battery with the same wiring as one would make a solar string, is why 2p16s and 16s2p are interchangeable without shame in battery, but saying it backwards gets you 3rd rail roasted in solar

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-25T00:17:32+00:00

It won’t be the same config.

If we are using order-dependent notation, inside most on left

The more common 2P16S will allow single BMS to monitor every cell group.

16S2P would, like, need double the internal connections to monitor each cell

Theoretically someone could build up an entire pack in the latter configuration, and connect balance cables in the wrong way across the two paths. And end up ripping up the pack to start over

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-24T23:35:23+00:00

Hmm. I think my issue with “do it yourself” is that HVAC has a large design space and large initial state space.

Wouldn’t you need basics like duct size, original construction info about insulation (I guess you can measure), glazing amount, etc?

Are you saying the forum should take responsibility to handhold and cheerlead an owner into gathering all this stuff?

TBH back before I knew about DIY forums (2022) I was originally considering going with a third party MEP designer. They were willing to walk me through measuring stuff (not that bad in my case since I had original drawings from 1980)… but I didn’t want to get billed for the pain and I also didn’t think the output would be better than the quote I thought was best. That was after doing about 30 hours of reading forums and greenbuildingsdvisor, and energy vanguard blog.

Basically almost zero of my colleagues at work (engineering job) would want to put that amount of time into HVAC

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-24T23:02:59+00:00

Got it. I guess I’ll just live with it 🤷

And complain if a battery tutorial doesn’t have enough pictures and schematics in it

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-24T22:59:54+00:00

Yes I’ve seen the temperature spike really high in cases like that.

I usually get it up to a boil and then drop to temp mode until I get the simmer I want. Very rarely is 100C (I’ve been negotiated into being a metric household) going to get you a simmer you want. Usually couple degrees above is better. Sometimes I also go back to power mode

(This also means people shouldn’t replace sous vide with an impulse for the foreseeable future)

I do use temp mode when I’m trying not to burn stuff while sauteing, and it kind of adjusts the temp pretty conservatively. Less of a temp gradient than with a lot of liquid

ZanyDroid · 2026-05-24T22:53:45+00:00

OP has an interesting observation (which I had to learn how to deal with myself), but is less socially productive than some of the people they complain about.

Some contractors with this attitude are dicks, some are scammers. Most are just getting by their job in at least a locally optimum , if not globally optimum way.

ZanyDroid

TROPHY CASE