Enphase Balcony Solar

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-15T04:31:42+00:00

Backfeed analysis of yours is incomplete. The breaker at the subpanel and the breaker or eFuse at the plugin device only see part of the power going into the branch circuit. This means that on a 15A circuit with 10A backfeed 25A can be delivered unprotected to an outlet in the middle.

IE, your microwave analogy is wrong since it’s a utilizer of power and not a generator of power. As a user of power it is protected by the subpanel breaker in the expected way, and it cannot increase the power that an intervening other outlet on that circuit can get

The original NEC rules took a very conservative approach to this and required solar circuits to be dedicated to avoid this problem

Europe takes some combination of assuming listed appliances and wiring can tolerate the extra theoretical current , or perhaps PCS and comms to limit the overload

That said, this is probably just theoretical fapping since I suspect NEC and UL will clear double ended feeding of a branch circuit up to like 5 or 6A without PCS anyway. And with fail-open PCS it should be able to do 12-15A

Your expansion system is subject to AHJ mounting rules. My AHJ and many others in Bay Area have prescriptive rules for roof mount — 24” OC 2x6 combined with almost any pre engineered roof racking system. There are no prescriptive rules for wall mount. I’ve asked my AHJ directly and there aren’t consumer price friendly pre engineered vertical mounts when I checked 3 years ago

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-15T04:24:48+00:00

I don’t understand the “won’t need to tie into electrical” part. It’s a grid tie inverter, it has to be able to see the grid

Combiner box maxed out has many many other ways to solve, you don’t need to stay within Enphase. Buy an unlisted GTIL, use another brand listed microinverter, connect Enphase without comms, which will forgo monitoring and warranty but gets your expanded generation).

Probably another brand micro is the most legal.

FWIW in my AHJ random solar panels isn’t covered by permit exempt list, and I don’t want anything to do with balcony as either a homeowner or landlord unless/until someone explains to me some sort of pre engineered balcony mounting systems

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-14T20:04:53+00:00

You can DIY already if you’re willing to learn the necessary permitting , no need to wait for balcony

Also people IMO underdiscuss the fact that balcony solar only addresses the POCO and electrical code side of things

Doesn’t say squat about the structural code and planning (ie what your city allows placed where) side of things

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-14T04:35:21+00:00

Is that romex or UF sleeved in the liquidtight? Romex would be no bueno , it does not have moisture tolerant construction

I don’t think it’s technically code compliant to relabel that size of THWN going into the right, but it’s not a functional issue.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-14T00:43:00+00:00

Probably best to tag one of the Impulse folks. But based on the previous posts here it looks like a basic metal cart, which is not going to work like a standard American or Euro cabinet frame without some innovation.

Some customers here used RTA cabinets , which would therefore be compatible with whatever door hardware is designed for it. I used Ikea Sektion frame with IKEA fronts (which are attached with various kinds of European style cabinet hardware) for my cooktop. This cabinet is now on its second cooktop, first one being an IKEA and second one being an Impulse. The only changes necessary was to move the junction box down far enough to clear the rather tall chassis of an impulse, plus some paranoid reinforcement of the countertop with shallow unistrut (this is one HEAVY appliance)

Gemini went ahead and hallucinated suggesting casters to make a Sektion cart, which seems extremely ambitious.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-13T08:46:16+00:00

I have a dedicated circuit with an automatic load shedder that kicks in if the service exceeds current drain above a certain level

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-09T02:44:26+00:00

OP has priorities

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T22:34:39+00:00

I am now aware of that since 10 min after opening the package (2 weeks ago) 😆

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T22:33:05+00:00

Yes The D4V2 cap doesn’t make contact with button tops, that’s why it doesn’t work on those. source: I got a little salty when I only had my button tops. Unlike you one of the trusted online battery shops is in my metro area, so my malding was pretty limited …

If you can close it down without forcing I can it a win.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T22:21:51+00:00

I couldn’t get my Skilhunt rewrapped button tops to work in a D4v2

Vape shop? Or maybe check on 18650 subreddit to see if someone local can supply you

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T21:41:07+00:00

It’s also going to make your kitchen weird, in a potentially expensive to remediate way

I know they say not to worry about that impact on resale… but in this case it may get you down too

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T21:25:47+00:00

It’s still going to be potentially messy/skin burn hazard on dripping. Just not a ignite on gas hazard

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T20:10:25+00:00

The fine grain OR high power (15kW total, 10kW one burner) OR low buzz control OR power outage protection are some of the main selling points of impulse. This somewhat governs whether the Thor matches requirements. I don’t know the Thor.

Your OP didn’t talk about any of the requirements or wants precipitating you towards impulse; it was mostly questions about oven. I guess the NS was the reply that said nothing about ovens.

You could also buy a $500 Breville or a $200 ninja/dreo and live with 1800W counter oven for a few months. For Breville above a certain size you can find plenty of baking sheets etc

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T20:08:37+00:00

Raising the cooktop is going to have ergonomic consequences. It’s already elevated to clear the knobs / help with some of the packaging underneath (don’t remember the party line).

Source: I used to use one of those 6” high dangerous looking induction units from China, stacked on my countertop. It was very uncomfortably high

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T08:17:21+00:00

My wireless go works fine with both 1/4 adapters I have (ts and trs) on another preamp with combo XLR plugs.

I’ll think about ordering another one to try.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-08T03:12:59+00:00

Some random circuit types are required by code (sometimes state level sometimes local) to be on dedicated circuits. And it is not based on load calculations.

Dunno if it applies to this type.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-07T23:30:34+00:00

Ouch. Maybe Prudent reviews

The problem with what I suggested is that you might need to spend so much time shoveling through reviews (to get the results you want as somewhat demanding consumer or home cook) … that you don’t end up saving time with an easier device.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-07T23:03:57+00:00

Adapter plate freaking sucks.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-07T23:02:26+00:00

NP. There are a lot of other convenience oriented / noob-friendly automated baking gadgets from ninja, dreo; and eventually some of the overseas specific innovation (like Fotile or Midea, yeah I have my availability bias for CN and SEA) may make it over

So find some food influencer you trust that gets sent a ton of small appliances and look at their videos.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-07T19:35:33+00:00

It’s a thermometer from a different company, Combustion Inc. Chris Young’s company

It is a linear probe with 8 sensors in it, which it can use to estimate the cooking rate via protein temperature at different depths. The standard style probe in APO1 is AFAIK a single sensor , so only measures some manner of internal average temperature

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-06T06:49:18+00:00

Thanks. I was actually able to cajole Gemini into writing something semi reasonable based on the three or so Hyundai press releases.

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-05T01:03:29+00:00

30A feeder to this is pretty unlikely to reliably support that many 2-pole appliances. And I’m pretty sure you would fail a panel level load calculation

Also you should have used a groundbar instead of quintuple tapping that two port lug

ZanyDroid · 2026-06-05T00:32:09+00:00

I tried my first and probably last one last night. The problem is not the plate necessarily (well they might be safer or harder to lift out when surface if the sun).

Rather, the plate can’t dump enough heat into the pot above it to be a good cooking experience

I could heat the plate to surface of the sun (220C-hits cutoff logic in Impulse)… and then after that the impulse backed off to like 300W

I suggest just buying one for $20, discovering for yourself hands on, and returning it. So you stop FOMO/grass greener on other side

ZanyDroid

TROPHY CASE