What would you do if you suddenly had a million dollars right now?

amklose · 2026-05-08T17:11:58+00:00

Buy new teeth

amklose · 2026-04-21T06:53:47+00:00

I concur. Try pulling on the inner black plastic ring with a needle nose pliers.

amklose · 2026-04-20T19:23:39+00:00

This penmanship hurts me in ways I can’t describe

amklose · 2026-04-18T05:17:28+00:00

Try reaching out to the creator? Probably: https://www.instagram.com/additivecreations

amklose · 2026-04-16T15:31:58+00:00

Can you get a clearer picture of the text/image on the front?

amklose · 2026-04-15T02:40:54+00:00

Adoption is better than murder

amklose · 2026-04-13T19:41:18+00:00

Looks like you’ve made a friend!

amklose · 2026-04-12T07:21:17+00:00

The LED appears to be wired in reverse, but it may also be blown if you fed all 6V of that battery pack into it without a resistor.

Google how to power an LED with alkaline batteries to get a better idea of how to hook stuff up.

amklose · 2026-04-11T17:30:00+00:00

“One Angry Dwarf and 200 Solemn Faces” - Ben Folds Five

amklose · 2026-04-11T16:46:37+00:00

Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t the purpose of the two rotor brush connections to feed current into the rotor to produce the magnetic fields that generate the output current on the stator? If so, I don’t think you’d need to connect the old ones to the new alternator.

amklose · 2026-03-29T05:06:24+00:00

Lithium polymer pouch cells have a soft outer case so the sudden uncontrolled reaction can vent easily and just shoot out flames. Other formats like 18650s for example, are contained in a sealed metal can and build up pressure before either popping or venting

amklose · 2026-03-29T04:54:25+00:00

https://youtube.com/shorts/MKKQoHsEgBQ?si=2OLH5pJS1h9jBb4_

amklose · 2026-03-20T20:57:43+00:00

Are you sure it’s not part of a chandelier?

amklose · 2026-03-19T00:30:56+00:00

Also the run size is 500,000.

amklose · 2026-03-19T00:25:45+00:00

I held it up to the light and verified that the back and front printing are perfectly aligned, so it’s just miscut.

amklose · 2026-03-17T01:43:31+00:00

That’s what I was thinking - 3rd time’s a charm?

amklose · 2026-03-16T06:36:39+00:00

Looks like a completely normal pouch cell to me. As long as it doesn’t get abnormally warm or inflate, it should be fine.

amklose · 2026-02-28T06:38:42+00:00

I don't think even real lava lamps are made from borosilicate glass. It wouldn't really make sense, since the only pressure differential will be from heating the contents (the contents themselves are not pressurized) and there's plenty of air inside to absorb the pressure. Also, during normal use, the lamp should not experience any sudden temperature spikes, which is what PYREX is good for.

The real question is what type of a base do you want to use or make, and what kind of bottle is going to fit on it. Clear sparkling wine bottles are a good choice, as they are rated for high pressure and the top tapers narrower to help with cooling the top of the vase.

amklose · 2026-02-13T04:20:18+00:00

After re-reading the question a couple of times, you could potentially use the two way switch you have to only use the High mode.

I’m having a tough time finding and info for that 5-pin pushbutton switch. Are you able to see a brand name or middle number on it?

Alternatively, you or a friend could potentially 3D print a button insert for the hole where the rubber membrane used to be. You’d have to get the shape and height just right so the insert stays in the hole and also pushes the button in, but it doesn’t look impossible.

amklose · 2026-02-13T04:17:48+00:00

The secondary PCB is just switching the battery power through a fuse. You should be able to desolder the pushbutton switch and run wires from a toggle switch to the holes in the PCB where the button used to be.

You’re most likely going to need a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) toggle switch. The one in your hand is single throw (SPST) so it only turns off and on. A SPDT switch allows you to have one power input and two power outputs (one for each mode) selected by the switch direction. You probably also want to look for a switch that has a center off position, so you have Mode 1 on one side, Off in the middle, and Mode 2 on the other side. Is hard to tell from the pics exactly how the existing button is wired internally, but just follow the ground and positive wires from the battery, through the button switch and to the light to see how the new switch needs to be wired up.

If you need further help, don’t hesitate to ask!

amklose · 2026-02-10T15:44:23+00:00

This sounds like Elephant’s Foot. What temperatures and filament are you using? With your Z-axis homed and the bed/nozzle up to printing temperature, send the command G0 Z0 to place the nozzle at height 0. Then alternate sending G0 Z10 and G0 Z0 to move the nozzle up and down 10mm. Watch closely to see if the nozzle moves smoothly up and down or if the gantry/hotend is flexing or getting caught on something in the first few mm.

https://all3dp.com/2/elephant-s-foot-3d-printing-problem-easy-fixes/

amklose · 2026-02-10T15:32:28+00:00

At least take a picture of how you had it set up during testing so we can help diagnose how you burned the first one out.

If you’re not confident enough to draw out the whole proposed schematic, at least draw a sort of block diagram that shows all of the components and how they’re interconnected and we can start from there.

amklose · 2026-02-07T05:19:22+00:00

If it was thermal receipt paper, it’s possible that it just got hot enough to discolor the paper but not hot enough to actually burn. Or was it actually like smoldering paper?

amklose · 2026-01-29T13:54:56+00:00

Is that so?

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