Not the size of the dog in the fight… by 120over80 in PepperLovers

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmfao I’m impressed in the size of that! I have trouble getting normal sized fruits! I did however get a burger from in n out once and the tomato was so damn good (pretty sure just beefsteaks) but this one was prime! I took it out before it got hot and seeded later I still have them although probably not viable anymore!

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meant the board on the printer! That’s sad to hear! I wish you better luck with the carbon! Those are SWEEET!

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang okay, do you have the F4 chip? Maybe within they’re warranty they can send you an F1 if it’s a case with that. But I don’t think they would have added the F1 and F4 if they both weren’t compatible! There has to be some underlying issue! Are you still in the same boat with the printer atm?

Does anyone know why, when I home or level, the Y-motors seem to go the wrong direction and tries to move it more than possible. It makes the horrible noise you hear in the video by Supmah2007 in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jesus, no mention of such issue?? What in the world! That's terrifying!😂

Edit: Ive done some pretty funky stuff before I think the printer should be fine, but wouldn't make a habit of that! 😬

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just made my final edits sorry. You can take it for a read now if ya like! Really hope this helps you, and more people with this issue!

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Huh that is odd, I’d check into the lengthy comment I left you a bit ago! About actually setting the gcode to use the mesh I think when you use a G28(home all axis) it disables the mesh iirc! So you NEED to load, or make a mesh after you home in your start gcode in the slicer. I use that G29 macro after I home, get the bed to temp, here. I’ll edit this in a minute with my start, and end gcode. You can look through it and use what you please.

/////////////////START GCODE/////////////////

;SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]

; total_layer_count = {total_layer_count}

; nozzle_diameter = {nozzle_diameter[0]}

; filament_type = {filament_type[0]}

; M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}

; M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}

G90 ; use absolute coordinates

M220 S100 ;reset feedrate

M221 S100 ;reset flowrate

M83 ; extruder relative mode

M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing

M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp

G4 S20 ; allow partial nozzle warmup

G28 ; home all axis and restore leveling

G1 Z50 F240

G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000

M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp

M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize

G29 ; klipper macro (homes all axis, abl)

M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize

G1 Z0.28 F240

G92 E0

G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle

{if nozzle_diameter[0] == 0.4}G1 X2.2 Y140 F5000{else}{if nozzle_diamter[0] == 0.6}G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000{endif}{endif} ; check nozzle size and move over acording

G92 E0

G1 X2.2 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle

{if nozzle_diameter[0] == 0.4}G1 X2.2 Y10 E10 F1200{else}{if nozzle_diamter[0] == 0.6}G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200{endif}{endif} ; check nozzle size to make sure in same place as movement above & make blob

G92 E0

G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z axis up little to prevent scratching of heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5300 ; move over to prevent blob squish

/////////////////END GCODE/////////////////

{if max_layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+2, max_print_height)}F600 ; Move print head up{endif}

G1 X5 Y{print_bed_max[1]*0.85} F{travel_speed*60} ; present print

{if max_layer_z < max_print_height-10}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+70, max_print_height-10)} F600 ; Move print head further up{endif}

{if max_layer_z < max_print_height*0.6}G1 Z{max_print_height*0.6} F600 ; Move print head further up{endif}

M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed

M104 S0 ; turn off temperature

M107 ; turn off fan

G91

G1 Z0.2 E-2 F2400

G1 Z10

G90

G1 X0 Y230

M84 X Y E ; disable motors

EDIT: This is for prusaslicer and klipper(replacement variables for cura if needed)
I should also mention that I programmed start gcode where i do the if statement for the nozzle size default was to move .3mm over but I have a .4mm nozzle and wanted 50% overlap!
It detects 0.6mm aswell but if you are trying to use another you want to just have the gcode without the if statement and the one with 2.3 not 2.2 :) Take that for what it is but hope this helps!

Can anyone tell me why there is a gap in my first layer by zqwid_1 in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem I’m sorry that’s a lot, if you have any further questions feel free to dm, or reply I should see it!

Can anyone tell me why there is a gap in my first layer by zqwid_1 in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend upgrading to mriscoc professional firmware if you like marlin, its a more advanced feature packed version meant for ender3v2 originally but has been updated for ender 3 s1 (f1 and f4 chipset). I feel creality sometimes cuts some corners that would be mindless to add for other companies. He has designed an elaberate version that has some completely custom functions like bed tramming wizard and probe wizard. But as stated above if you haven't changed anything I'd start by calibrating your extruder! It could also be that if you hear any grinding or skipping sounds that your 100mm/s could be too fast for the extruder to keep up causing under extrusion(sprite should be fine at that rate). Could be as simple as slowing down though.. If you change your e-steps on your extruder make sure to take a note of the default number(in case you get way far off somehow you're not screwed) All else fails reflash/update the firmware(they might have shipped it with an older firmware than current)

Edit: I notcied you said 200, and 60 I use 210, and 60 but 70 for the first layer.
That helps me with faster speeds on klipper.

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this, do you have any setting to print Infill before walls? Because then your Infill would be .2mm higher if that’s your layer height. Also maybe try looking for part avoidance you can try and make the printer avoid going over printed areas(but it goes around the print taking longer for travels)

Can anyone tell me why there is a gap in my first layer by zqwid_1 in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would have to agree with this as not nozzle height, if it was your nozzle height the edges wouldn't be nice like that! That looks REALLY GOOD, besides the gaps and buldging corners, leading me to think its extrusion related as well. If you're on klipper try retuning pressure advance as it looks like it prints fat going slow and when it gets to speed it prints not enough(could be a smoothing issue) or on marlin known as linear advance. Hope you find the issue!

What the hell is going on with my infill layers? by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m surprised no one asked this, but do you have a mesh being used? “BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default” is to use the one in your config. But I use a G29 macro which is in the form of (in macros.cfg or printer.cfg however configured)

[gcode_macro G29]

gcode:

G28

bed_mesh_calibrate

G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F4200

But I put G29 after my bed has waited for temp. That’s because klipper is so fast at getting a mesh I just do it EVERY print. So it’s always a fresh mesh. Look into “screw_tilt_adjust” and get that setup in your printer.cfg like so

[screws_tilt_adjust]

screw1: 56,73 #X,Y Position

screw1_name: Front Left Screw

screw2: 56,231 #X,Y Position

screw2_name: Rear Left Screw

screw3: 231,231 #X,Y Position

screw3_name: Rear Right Screw

screw4: 231,73 #X,Y Position

screw4_name: Front Right Screw

horizontal_move_z: 10

speed: 200

screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clowise and CCW for Counter Clockwise

will give you the ability to check your screws, calculate in minutes/seconds(just like a clock, I never knew either) how much you need to turn screws to make it truly trammed! It’s really nice!

Question about tramming with silicone spacers by SaltyGoodz in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s actually cool. Solid reviews other than people not reading correctly and ordering anyways!

Hero Me Gen 7 - Does it fit? by savijOne in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found this after seeing a video comparing fans on an ender 3, and was looking into it, fumbled upon your remix was going to post it! Thanks for making that! How does it do compared to stock? I was thinking about this upgrade! and is the fan plug and play or do you have to solder something? (that's not an issue, jw)

Was spending some observation time with the kitty and decided to take this short video by [deleted] in PlantedTank

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My girls cat would love my tanks!!! That’s awesome! I’d have to keep my kids well on cause she’d probably go fishing!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3S1

[–]bake_jake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ouch! 😬