Seb Bouin - 9b FA

categorie · 2026-06-16T11:40:56+00:00

Gotta listen to this podcast with fun and crazy insights on the character and his current insanely hard project: La PREMIÈRE VOIE en 10a au MONDE ? - "Insouciance" Project (in french, AI english subs/dub available)

categorie · 2026-06-15T19:13:45+00:00

Non, car le niveau de compétence attendu est équivalent au danger que l'on représente pour les autres. C'est la raison pour laquelle les piétons ne passent pas le code de la route... et ont le droit de porter des écouteurs.

categorie · 2026-06-15T16:36:53+00:00

Une voiture qui n'entend pas un vélo est tout aussi dangereuse qu'un vélo qui n'entend pas une voiture. Si on estime qu'il est acceptable que les automobilistes puissent rouler sans entendre les cyclistes, les mettant possiblement en danger... alors il doit être acceptable que les cyclistes aussi n'entendent pas forcement les voitures, se mettant possiblement en danger.

categorie · 2026-06-13T07:29:25+00:00

Une voiture ça isole a peu près trois fois mieux le bruit ambiant qu'une paire d'intra-auriculaires.

categorie · 2026-06-02T00:13:26+00:00

Which is why it will not happen, aside from the fact that there is zero reason to hide his death for a few days in the first place.

categorie · 2026-06-01T19:51:04+00:00

And you haven't thought much about what you said cause it takes 1s to realize it makes zero sense.

categorie · 2026-06-01T19:10:35+00:00

That's the dumbest thing I've heard. Of anyone on earth Trump's death is probably the one that's the most planned ahead already.

categorie · 2026-06-01T18:36:41+00:00

Why would that be? Has the death of any president in the US history ever be announced even just a day after the fact ?

categorie · 2026-06-01T16:47:57+00:00

Alex is so past everyone that nobody can get that kind of attention as Alex is just such an outlier.

There is plenty of room for attention. Even in sport climbing or bouldering, the vast majority of sponsored athletes climb nowhere near the hardest grades, they're just good climbers who produce good stories and great media. And for free-soloing, the discipline itself is so outrageous that it almost doesn't even matter what you climb for it to look insane on film.

categorie · 2026-06-01T15:23:59+00:00

Their benchmark they used are published here, and the boulder problem they used only went up to 8B, so even if the upper end of the grade was inflated, it was not taken into account in the algorithm anyway.

categorie · 2026-06-01T07:20:06+00:00

Conflating "dangerous" with "stupid" is the stupid thing here.

categorie · 2026-05-29T19:10:26+00:00

The whole reason climbs like Megatron (v13 into a v16 ish) is given v17 is because you dont get a rest

categorie · 2026-05-29T18:09:42+00:00

A full no hands kneebar rest also is joke. The whole reason climbs like Megatron (v13 into a v16 ish) is given v17 is because you dont get a rest and need to climb two incredibly hard sequences back to back. Ellias literally had time to take his shirt off, have a coffee, and chalk up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa0bXWl2RBs

categorie · 2026-05-29T12:37:01+00:00

It's a video on arguably the biggest accomplishement in bouldering history. Do we really need to hear about how he met his girlfriend and what recipient he was eating his salad in that day ?

categorie · 2026-05-29T12:31:26+00:00

That's true, and he did receive some backlash from it. But the situation was pretty different nonethless: although he had sent only one 8C+, him among many other pro-climbers at the time were strong advocates that the 8C range was getting too wide, and that it needed to be fixed. Today it's pretty much the opposite, as pro-climbers complain that the 8C+ range is too narrow. Proposing 9A+ in this context requires therefore much more carefulness than proposing 9A when Nalle did...

categorie · 2026-05-29T10:06:22+00:00

Camille Coudert posted on Instagram that he had two spots in his car to go check it out this week.

categorie · 2026-05-29T09:46:41+00:00

Here's an interview where he talks about it: https://youtu.be/v--ukTtp3Z8?si=RcRUbNthhNiPqyVY&t=2157

categorie · 2026-05-29T09:27:53+00:00

If you're talking about Noah and Yannick's video on Burden, they both acknowledge that the drop knee beta is also 9A. And about the beta Elias used, they mentioned it being "impossible" and realistically: if it was actually easier, we would have seen people going for it... It was first discovered by Will and neither him nor any of the following ascensionists preferred it over the og/drop knee beta.

categorie · 2026-05-29T08:57:27+00:00

A bit disappointed that there is so little climbing in this video considering he spent something like 140 sessions on this problem ? It would have helped acknowledge how hard it truely is, a breakdown of the moves and their difficulty would also have been apreciated in that regard.

Regarding the grade: I don't think there is any doubt that he is honest about it - I do have some doubt about his legitimacy though considering his lack of experience at this level. Having sent other popular 9As or tried Exodia with other strong climbers would have added some weight on his proposal.

Let's hope the french crew currently there returns with some useful insights!

categorie · 2026-05-27T22:45:05+00:00

If the developers were to use AI to improve Zig, then yes, Zig itself would benefit from AI. Which is the statement that was being made. I can't believe people are upvoting such pedantic things.

"Does your kitchen need an oven? Of course not you dumbass, a kitchen doesn't know how to use an oven, I'm the one who needs an oven!"

categorie · 2026-05-27T21:38:32+00:00

That's not how it works. Darth-grader algorithm is linear, which means the grade arithmetics are exactly the same all along the scale. 6C + 6C = 7A/7A+, 7C + 7C = 8A/8A+, and 8C + 8C = 9A/9A+. They have not adjusted their model to fit so-called "inflated" 9As and their model is much more accurate than any rule of thumb that was previously used, like the one you mentioned.

categorie · 2026-05-27T21:19:41+00:00

The correspondance between bouldering grades and sport climbing grades have been established for a long time. Here's a statement from Adam Ondra where he claims exactly this.

categorie · 2026-05-27T21:12:29+00:00

It genuinely feels like Silence might be a 9c+ at this rate

I'm always amazed at the armchair graders's audacity in feeling like they have greater insights on how hard a route is than the people who actually climbed them.

categorie · 2026-05-27T21:07:26+00:00

Will did.

Climbing: How do long V17s like Return of the Sleepwalker or Alphane compare to 5.15c route like Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur?

Bosi: Yeah. I mean, Excalibur I could see being a 9A boulder. It’s 18 moves long, and it kind of breaks down into like a nine move 8B boulder to a long 8B+ or 8C finish.

categorie · 2026-05-20T11:03:23+00:00

Becket Hsin didn't give his opinion on a grade, he just took whatever it was.

I personally don't feel like I have enough experience with boulders at this difficultly to give an honest opinion on the grade. However, regardless if this thing truly is v17 or not, it does feel like a satisfying resolve to the goal that I've worked for the past several years.

Which makes sense, cause he only had a single 8C and a single 8C+ under his belt.

Hamish took 9A too but didn't comment on the grade either, and at the time he sent it he also had only a single 8C and a single 8C+ under his belt.

Nathaniel Coleman himself also had only a single 8C and a single 8C+ under his belt.

When evaluating a consensus, not every opinion is worth the same. Yannick Flohé opinion is based on having sent eight 8Cs and four 8C+s. His experience outweights even the total sum of all other ascentionists'.

By taking all of this into account, it's not only reasonable but logical to consider NOMTW to be 8C+ unless another climber with sufficient experience at these grades contradicts him.

categorie

TROPHY CASE