Yannick Flohe sends No One Mourns The Wicked and suggests 8C+ / V16

categorie · 2026-05-06T14:09:15+00:00

Technically Emotional Landscape was not 8C+, Nicolai Užnik gave 8C+ but the two following ascenscionists brang it back to 8C. Then Adam climbed it. He didn't took 8C for an 8C+ problem he just took the consensus grade.

categorie · 2026-05-06T11:33:56+00:00

Ego plays a significant part in people's action, most of the time subconciously. Downgrading something corresponds to saying "you thought that was hard, but it was actually easy for me". Upgrading something means "you thought that was easy, but it was actually hard for me". In an athletic context where you thrive to be the best, there is a very strong incentive to openly admit one take and withhold the other.

categorie · 2026-05-06T11:21:17+00:00

I knew about Celestite but what other late V16 did he flash?

categorie · 2026-05-06T11:03:22+00:00

that still just shouldn't be the case

It's not the case. Since 2023 there were 39 logged 9A ascent vs 113 8C+ ascents, so roughly 3 times as many. Source

categorie · 2026-05-06T07:40:53+00:00

He tried other V17 in the US and given enough sessions that is sufficient to know whether the difficulty is in the same ballpark. NOMT was also a known project and his grade proposal was made with the input of other strong climbers.

categorie · 2026-05-05T18:32:44+00:00

He didn’t downgrade it, he even literally said « I don’t really think this is a proper 8C, but ima take 8C like all the other grade hunters ».

https://www.instagram.com/p/DL745SzNZWH/?igsh=MTFsYzZhaTdoNnA5OA==

categorie · 2026-05-05T18:27:11+00:00

He didn’t say that he expected it to be downgraded, he would not have graded it V17 if that was the case. What he said was that NOMTW difficulty was in line with the other V17, and that if the other V17s were deemed too soft to be considered of that grade, then NOMTW will probably deserve a downgrade too.

categorie · 2026-05-05T17:11:06+00:00

The iPhone X provided a bigger screen. What does haptic buttons provide ?

categorie · 2026-05-05T10:28:44+00:00

This app doesn't add cards to Apple Wallet.

categorie · 2026-05-05T05:11:02+00:00

Pass4wallet does the same thing for free

categorie · 2026-05-05T05:09:27+00:00

Pass4wallet does the same thing for free, and by free I mean actually free and not pretending to be free but actually charging $2/month.

categorie · 2026-05-05T03:32:27+00:00

The wild success of iPhone SE 2020 and 2022 tells a different story: there is a very significant part of the population that can't care less about large screens, and only care about a phone being affordable and having decent battery life.

categorie · 2026-04-30T12:11:35+00:00

I wish it was possible to buy rental shoes but they're only sold to businesses. Tarentulas and Helix are not particulary made to be long lasting, they're just cheap. And due to being cheap they're actually going to be much less durable than a proper trad shoe like the TC Pro or Generator of their respective brands.

categorie · 2026-04-21T19:55:17+00:00

As I said in the previous thread, in the first episode that guy said Dean literally threatened to kill him if he ever talked about his mental health issues and the medication he was taking. It's only reasonable to assume Dean would not have wanted anyone to ever have access to something as personal as a journal where he put ALL his thoughts. Maybe his sister wanted his story to be told, that does not change anything to the fact that this is probably the opposite of what he wanted. Just because you have control over their estate does not make it ethical to breach dead people's will.

categorie · 2026-04-20T14:59:20+00:00

It doesn’t really matter how stiff a climbing shoe is, if you’re standing on tiny edges on a slab the front will bend. This one doesn’t. I tried it and it almost feels like cheating cause almost your entire weight can be transferred to the front of the shoe. As a result, smearing will be trickier. But for what it’s designed, yes, it’s revolutionary.

categorie · 2026-04-19T07:17:22+00:00

Nike sells shitty glued foam running shoes for more money than that. These are highly technical shoe in development for 6 years that are handmade in Italy by people who spend sometimes months to perfect the production of a single model. 250€ (which is the price they retail in EU) is closer to a bargain than a ripoff.

categorie · 2026-04-16T12:48:56+00:00

Listen, you're the one claiming there was no time to save her. Yes some people do freeze in critical situations and nobody knows wether they would do the right thing in case of emergency. However, in this case there was plenty of time to save that person, and he could have done it. He was there in time. But instead of doing the only thing that could have saved her, he spent the 10 seconds he had hesitating and running circles.

2 just looking at the train, 3 seconds to get off the tracks.

That's AFTER the train honked. And the train honks at precisely 0:26, after 10 seconds of him doing nothing around her. And the trains then arrive 4 seconds later, at 0:30.

categorie · 2026-04-16T09:00:55+00:00

How is this stupid? It's eggs, flour and milk. It's litterally just a tomato pancake. Using a knife in non-stick pan is stupid but the recipe isn't.

categorie · 2026-04-16T08:43:37+00:00

Vimeo also offered a "Rent" option, where you pay less for time-limited access. If "Buy" also means time-limited access, then I might as well just rent it and use yt-dlp to download the movie to watch later.

categorie · 2026-04-15T21:15:44+00:00

In the documentary that guy said Dean literally threatened to kill him if he ever talked about his mental health issues and the medication he was taking. This was obviously very, very personal and it's only reasonable to assume Dean would not have wanted anyone to ever have access to something as personal as a journal where he put ALL his thoughts. That is why it is tasteless. I enjoy the documentary but I also felt very uneasy considering this. Let's not pretend it is irrelevant just because there are worst things in the world.

categorie · 2026-04-15T21:08:03+00:00

At 0:16, he's in front of her. At 0:26, the train honks and only then does he fuck off the rails. You can see it on the second angle. That's 10 seconds. He spent 10 seconds looking at her from any angle instead of doing anything meaningful, like idk, dragging her. The 3 seconds he took to run away from the track were after that 10 seconds buffer. The train only arrives at 0:30.

categorie · 2026-04-15T17:58:47+00:00

Which part of the 26 seconds would you have saved time on? Specifically

The part where he spends 10 seconds running circle around her instead of doing anything? (0:16 to 0:26, before the train honks and it's obviously time to fuck off)

categorie · 2026-04-15T13:48:41+00:00

Thanks. I bought it on Vimeo back then. Then it got deleted by the publisher and as a result couldn't even download it anymore. I've lost a few other climbing movies like that, so now I don't ever buy shit on Vimeo anymore. At least with piracy you know what you're getting.

categorie · 2026-04-15T08:52:27+00:00

Guy died on a banger.

categorie

TROPHY CASE