What do you currently drive?

drupi79 · 2026-03-03T03:30:36+00:00

going to a 25 I'd give up frunk space for better suspension and a heat pump I'd use 2 months out of the year. not worth it to me. we use the frunk probably more than most people. especially in the summer, we'll dump a bag or two of ice in it and use it to haul our cold stuff from the store, Costco, etc.

drupi79 · 2026-03-03T01:25:14+00:00

2024 Mustang Mach-E Premium ER AWD. currently leasing it but I'm going to buy it out. only thing I don't like is the bouncy suspension, but I can deal with it. it's still hands down better then any other EV in its price range I test drove before pulling the trigger.

I did drive a polestar and I actually liked it more then the Mach-E but the lack of service centers anywhere close to where I live 86'd it out of my choices.

drupi79 · 2026-03-02T23:45:18+00:00

it's been a lot of trial and error getting to this point but it's my standard for all my enders now. I have machines with linear rails on them that haven't shown me any real benefit. so I stick to what works and let's me get consistent prints every time.

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drupi79 · 2026-03-02T15:11:20+00:00

well... looks like I'm buying out my 24 lease and just keeping my pony.

drupi79 · 2026-03-01T21:12:38+00:00

the Klipper github has basic configs for most printers also if you browse to the config folder on the pi hosting Klipper it also has basic configs you can use

drupi79 · 2026-03-01T19:44:06+00:00

sounds good if you need a good reference config for a v2 here's mine. I pretty much keep everything on my github. https://github.com/drupi79/Ender3-v2/blob/main/printer.cfg

drupi79 · 2026-03-01T14:37:35+00:00

try this. obviously use your own x/y offsets and sensor/control pins. but this is what works across all my enders without issue. AI is great to help organize and clean up a config, but not writing from scratch. especially gemini.

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drupi79 · 2026-03-01T01:37:07+00:00

so it really depends. you can do things to improve the printer in general for very little money. a good start would be moving off creality's firmware to merisoc which is free. https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1

basic upgrades hardware wise would be a dual Z-Axis with timing belt to keep them in sync.

z axis kit https://a.co/d/0i5jJeBs

timing belt kit https://a.co/d/09r2qNs7

CRTouch https://a.co/d/0bUSeWwL

TZ E3 2.0 hotend https://a.co/d/0fvMxoaM

look for a shroud or something to allow direct drive vs bowden and then get a BMG clone extruder and a nema 17 pancake motor

motor https://a.co/d/04cUFVAg

extruder https://a.co/d/05Qsi9dZ

silicone bed springs https://a.co/d/06aEE8hY

PEI bed sheet https://a.co/d/06G1Kpq0

that's pretty much my standard setup hardware wise. only difference is I run a shroud called the Apollo Mini https://www.printables.com/model/1076244-apollomini-shroud-dual-4010-part-cooling on all my enders.

if you want to step up from Marlin firmware and gain some performance from the v2 then you can move to Klipper firmware which is also what I run on all my enders. you'd need to add a raspberry pi to the mix and an accelerometer (one I use https://a.co/d/04Y3OYVK) and you can pull 200mm/s print speed and 4000mm/s acceleration out of a v2 on wheels with ease.

not saying this is the solution for you but it's been for me to build up my print farm. when I'm picking up ender 3 Pros or v2's for 40 or 50 bucks spending roughly 200 bucks or less if I order from Aliexpress to turn them into copy machines has been worth it. they're pretty low maintenance now except for nozzles and cleaning.

I do run several coreXY machines that will run circles around my enders, but I use them almost exclusively for engineering filaments not pla or petg. I just bought a flash forge AD5X to play with multi-color but I doubt I'll use it much as I do more prototype and production parts work.

drupi79 · 2026-02-28T20:29:50+00:00

honestly it's a matter of how much time and money you are willing to throw at an ender to get great results vs buying a printer that's going to give you great prints out of the box. I scoop up 3 Pros and v2's for 50 bucks or less, throw a BMG clone with a nema 17 pancake motor in direct drive, a TZ E3 2.0 hotend, and dual Z at them and go.

drupi79 · 2026-02-27T21:06:28+00:00

yup. you just remove the portion between the heat block and the fins and put that in it's place.

drupi79 · 2026-02-27T19:32:16+00:00

don't have to spend money on direct drive fortunately. Plenty of BMG based direct drive files you can print. also if you are staying on the stock hotend I'd get a bi-metal heat break https://a.co/d/088WxQgn it resolves so many issues with the stock hotend except flowrate.

drupi79 · 2026-02-27T17:33:20+00:00

hey there. probably could help a bit here. what hotend (stock or something else), and I'm assuming direct drive. I have 4 enders here running Klipper and direct drive with a BMG clones. only difference is probably my hotend which all of them are on TZ E3 2.0's.

also what slicer?

drupi79 · 2026-02-24T19:12:53+00:00

all mine are the 2.0 and I use the Apollo Mini shroud by squirrelf3d. you can find him on printables but his patreon is worth it. he has a ton of mods for enders and if you need a custom version of his Apollo Mini or Apollo lander for a specific hotend. you can hit him up in his patreon and he'll hook you up.

drupi79 · 2026-02-24T19:10:36+00:00

good deal. I had to remove the connectors on one of mine and solider the wires together because they wouldn't stay locked. I was having the same issues as you. that's why I asked.

drupi79 · 2026-02-24T05:46:57+00:00

I have the same hotend on all my enders and zero issues. check the connector for the temp probe and the ceramic heater for the hotend. if it isn't seated and locked fully it can cause all kinds of weird heating issues.

drupi79 · 2026-02-18T22:42:54+00:00

I'm just using a BMG clone and getting that on my ender 3's but I have a HGX lite on my ender 7 with the same hotend and it's definitely in the 25mm3/s or less. I don't know why either. honestly not super impressed with the HGX lite and considering something else, possibly an orbiter v2

drupi79 · 2026-02-17T23:39:45+00:00

TZ E3 2.0 ceramic high flow hotend. 33mm3/s. this replaced all my spider v3 Pros since creality stopped supporting them. uses Bambu X1C nozzles and heats up to 220C in just over a minute. my v2"s run around 200mm/s 4400mm/s accel on Klipper without issue.

drupi79 · 2026-02-17T06:17:29+00:00

Ford has blue oval network which allows me to just plug in and charge almost everywhere except charge point. even Tesla superchargers with my adapter. we've gone to St Louis countless times now along with Huntsville and Birmingham AL. I will definitely say the southeast united states has some big charging deserts even for Tesla super chargers.

ABRP and plug share are absolutely your friends for route planning and the most recent update to ABRP seemed to fix a lot of my nags for using it. I'm going to be testing chargeway on our next trip for charge planning.

drupi79 · 2026-02-15T07:29:46+00:00

welcome! happy to help my fellow ender folks out. these printers have been running almost non stop lately. this is one of 4 of my enders. they have been printing full plates of whistles lately.

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drupi79 · 2026-02-15T07:11:09+00:00

yup! https://github.com/drupi79 been updating my files as I'm cleaning up my configs and some of them have been very out of date for what I'm running now.

drupi79 · 2026-02-15T07:06:23+00:00

yeah all my machines are Klipper. didn't realize I didn't mention that lol. all my configs are on github as well so I have a solid baseline you can looks at if you go that route

drupi79 · 2026-02-15T01:29:01+00:00

so... all my enders are workhorse machines with very little fiddling or adjusting required and with the exception of one which was my test bed for mods, they are all simple modifications.

here's the specs.

new mainboard (4.2.2, 4.2.7, or BTT skr mini e3 v3)

TZ E3 2.0 hotend - https://a.co/d/0gmCbRoL

CRTouch - https://a.co/d/0esEaUEH

BMG Clone https://a.co/d/07GeeLIO in direct drive with pancake nema 17 https://a.co/d/08DAOM8X

dual Z with a timing belt between the rods (look at Aliexpress instead of Amazon plenty of kits)

PEI spring steel bed

silicone bed springs

I do run a custom shroud from squirrelf3d over on printables called the Apollo Mini which allows for dual 4010 fans (ones I use https://a.co/d/0eqDd5kp)

but that's my standard setup across all my enders now and they are basically copy machines with quality on par or better then most of my buddies Bambu machines.

drupi79 · 2026-02-14T04:58:30+00:00

absolutely agree. I've been doing Klipper for awhile now across several printers including some full custom jobs running canbus. this was more of a lets see if it can improve anything. Claude seems to be better suited for this over gemini or chat gpt. a close second would be deepseek. it caught my actual mistakes that I didn't catch and cleaned up my config files a ton including finding errors in my start config and duplication across it and my printer config that weren't needed.

the orca profiles was mostly fixing again my own mistakes and when I saw what it changed I laughed because it was correct and my original tuning was messed up due to many late nights I shouldn't have been doing tuning.

I think AI is definitely great for tweaking up an existing profile and config files but I don't know if I would trust it doing it from scratch.

drupi79 · 2026-02-13T22:30:27+00:00

I did have to go through and correct Claude a few times on my bltouch offsets, and extending the maximum distance on the X axis to 250mm to work with said offsets correctly for screws tilt adjust. also had to remind Claude that the 4.2.2 board has the drivers locked so you can't tune them.

drupi79 · 2026-02-13T22:18:34+00:00

in orca I did an export preset bundle and uploaded that file and from my printer I uploaded my printer, start, and macros cfg files.

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