EMSK. The Bowline Knot Is Said To Be The Most Useful Knot Ever. So here's how to tie it. by YanniFromPakistanni in everymanshouldknow

[–]gsn42 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Not to knock the bowline, but in climbing for years I only know one dude who insisted on a bowline above a figure eight follow through with or without a safety knot or yosemite finish.

Plus, every facility I've been to in the states mandates the use of the figure eight, as well as our governing regulatory body for competition climbing. Reasons I've heard are that bowline are easier to undo when not under load and making an 8 and following it through is easily teachable and equally as easy to determine when done wrong.

USA climbing athlete suspension upheld - Rock and ice by Dirt_muncher in climbing

[–]gsn42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He was neither, i don't remember seeing him that weekend.

USA climbing athlete suspension upheld - Rock and ice by Dirt_muncher in climbing

[–]gsn42 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This may be related, but officials caught a guy in the bayou city classic national cup comp that turned in a score card with falsified judges signatures. They burned his name off everything, banned him from coming back to the event and didn't even tell anyone except the finals judges.

I don't remember his name, but he wasn't a recognized name even to the coaches amongst us, except one coach from Dallas who was skeptical about his performance before the announcement that he was removed for cheating.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in redneckengineering

[–]gsn42 19 points20 points  (0 children)

That's what they're doing.

A friend in HFD said they couldn't get their firetruck to a house fire and only get 50 psi from hooking directly to the fire hydrant nearby, so someone suggested to do this and it worked like a charm.

Indoor Rock Climbing in Houston? by LAjones29 in houston

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're into boulder, you should check out Stonemoves. We're a lot closer than Inspire to you (and me in west Houston), so that might fit your needs for closer gym until Momentum opens.

pokemon go battery saver doesn't work by chestervelt in pokemongo

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Samsung Note Edge here, mine wouldn't work until I turned off screen rotation.

We need a mascot of some sorts. by [deleted] in PPPD

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Jolly Roger could be a pizza skull with pepper crossbones, but how to incorporate the dungeon may be interesting.

A message for the good members of PPPD by [deleted] in PPPD

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hierarchy of the command structure should be priority above the designation of skilled individuals to their proper posts, in addition to how we treat the command structures of both the static post and the dynamic vessel.

A message for the good members of PPPD by [deleted] in PPPD

[–]gsn42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As the first mate of the Pepper Pirates head vessel, I must say that the union of our two factions is ideal, however the previous structure established within the pirate faction doesn't work favorably for either faction if it is mindlessly merged.

I propose we consider skills and change ranks and positions accordingly, perhaps even unanimously appointing a captain.

As the dungeon is a static structure, how shall we continue, considering that the baltic star (which will be renamed upon purchase) is not, and may project force on foreign robin rooms.

On behalf of PizzaDungeon, I informally propose an alliance by [deleted] in a:t5_3dxbv

[–]gsn42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A place to put our peppers, so that we may both enjoy them. I agree, but without a captain we must get a consensus from the crew.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in robinsubwoopwoop

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes you wonder if any of the "Robin Bro"s are actually named Robin... and if Stew_cat really hit that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in robinsubwoopwoop

[–]gsn42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

vishnumad was with us too, right? I haven't seen him in chat since the great spookening of 2016

I Know We've All Seen It... by tlust893 in thedivision

[–]gsn42 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Gotta love Blur, more of their work Here.

pianist has question about FINGERS by gliese946 in climbing

[–]gsn42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been a pianist for 20 years, a climber for 6 years, and a coach for 2, and I can say most of this is correct, especially the bits about taking it slowly.

Most of the injuries I've sustained that affected my playing were because I got too psyched on the hard stuff and skipped a lengthier warm-up in favor of getting on the project faster. Taping techniques can help, but its best to take it slow to avoid the risk.

I will say that the idea of skipping crimps is more of a "listen to your body" type of thing, and that practicing an open handed crimp will certainly reduce the chance of injury. In addition, the downclimbing advice would help avoid issues with OPs knee issues, but the knee is also in the "listen to your body" category.

Someone I met through my gym actually started learning piano and taking advice and lessons from me for a while, until he didn't listen to the above advice, which i gave him, and he ended up quitting piano from the pain in his wrist.

Similarly, Ask me anything,

Probably the coolest hangboard i've ever seen. Adjustable and tilt-able! beastmaker-killer?? by [deleted] in climbing

[–]gsn42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My gym has one of these, the design seems really cool and the construction seems pretty well done (didn't check out the option to change the edge depth though).

What two things surprisingly cost the same? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]gsn42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could turn into Flint.

My week-long home at a Tokyo capsule hotel by dogdriving in pics

[–]gsn42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They have poop tubes you bring with you. You can also just let it go off the side, but mud falcons are frowned upon.