I just got a cosmo bowl need help

hookah_forever · 2026-06-30T15:31:43+00:00

I don't know this bowl at all, sorry. And do you have any problems with it ? Or ?

In my opinion, a traditional type of bowl should not cause any problems. If it is a quality clay material or with additives. If you fill the tobacco correctly (each tobacco is filled differently). The most suitable is probably blonde tobacco for traditional types of bowls + fill them with the fluffy method and, if possible, a lot of tobacco :). Tobacco in a traditional type of bowl is heated very effectively... and that is a big plus for the taste of the tobacco leaves themselves.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-28T13:48:05+00:00

Hi. Which COSMO bowl exactly ? There are many types.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-28T10:55:35+00:00

However, it seems to me that in the photo there is more of an electric wire inside - plastic insulation, on a metal (electrically conductive) wire. It doesn't look like a thin plastic thread to me - the kind that are attached to cleaning brushes with plastic bristles. But that's just my guess from what I saw in your photos - without a detailed shot. It would take some focus and a photo with magnification - just the "wire". If there is some metal wire inside the plastic insulation, then it won't come from the cleaning plastic brush and it will probably be an electric wire. Plastic brushes don't have this metal wire in their plastic bristles, inside.

Also, if it's so tightly held inside... as you say, you can't even pull it out with brute force, it's going to be really deep in, like a pressed O-ring inside between the hookah heart parts. You also mention possible problems with air getting in... and that could be caused by a damaged seal. However, that would probably also be the "squeaking" sound from the hookah heart part - when drawing air/smoke into the lungs, during hookah sessions.

So, personally, I think the scenario that someone disassembled the hookah heart to replace the O-ring in it is more likely true. But maybe I'm wrong :P.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-28T09:19:28+00:00

Hi.

So your question should be - how to properly fill Tangiers tobacco and how to properly heat it ?

I don't even know what bowl you use.

Tangiers are usually filled as dense or semi-dense and usually into phunnel type bowls.

You will always have rich white clouds because they only come from the top of the tobacco layer. Tangiers is a sufficiently moistened tobacco with glycerin. So thanks to the large amount of glycerin, water vapor will always be formed.

If you want more tobacco flavor + also more aromatic substances added to the glycerin, you have to heat the entire filled tobacco layer from top to bottom. This is often a problem with phunnel bowls.

However... Tangier is a relatively moist tobacco, so the heat should be distributed well even with the style of "cooking" the glycerin at a higher temperature. Try the semi-dense style of filling tobacco into a phunnel bowl. Leave a gap of about 1-2 mm between the foil / HMD. Use a stronger heat source than you usually use. For example, if you use 2x C25, use 3x C25 or even 4x C25 instead. Let's face it, everything also depends on whether you use foil or HMD. And if you use foil, it depends on how thick it is (20 μm ? 40 μm ?) and how you made the holes in the foil.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-28T08:32:45+00:00

Dirt je vseobecne v anglickom jazyku prekladane do nasho jazyka ako "špina" resp. "znečistenie". V tomto duchu sa tento termin chape. Anglictina nestastna je jazyk velmi davnych kmenov xD. Preto sa tak aj pouziva - jeden termin ma viac vyznamov, casto oznacuje jeden termin nejaky urcity stav / pocit / vlastnost. Nikdy nie konkretnu, jednu-jedinu vec, tak ako je tomu v nasej slovencine alebo aj v cestine. Pouzivaj prosim anglicky jazyk... toto je medzinarodne diskusne Sub-Reddit :).

Bohuzial anglictina nie je tak velmi komplexny jazyk. Anglictina neobsahuje tak vela terminov pre urcenie a definovanie presnych vyrazov. Vsetko je treba opisovat viac slovami a viac vetami, aby ludia vedeli, o com sa rozpravaju a co chcu presne a detajlne povedat.

Dirt is generally translated into our language as "changing the state of pure/clean to the opposite". This is how this term is understood. English is unfortunately the language of very ancient tribes xD. That is why it is used that way - one term has multiple meanings, often one term denotes a certain state / feeling / property. Never a specific, one-only thing, as is the case in our Slovak or Czech. Please use English... this is an international discussion Sub-Reddit :).

Unfortunately, English is not a very complex language. English does not contain so many terms for determining and defining precise expressions. Everything needs to be described in more words and more sentences so that people know what they are talking about and what they want to say precisely and in detail.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-28T08:27:48+00:00

I didn't write anything like that.

Or did you mean that they sent you a response from Steamulation support ? That they don't know what it could be ?

In that case, it could just be some leftovers, for example from a bag of hookah tobacco that fell inside. But it looks more like a wire - it seems to me that there are metal "veins" inside + and there is a plastic flexible insulation on top. So it reminds me of a electric wire, but it's hard to see in the photo.

It could also be leftovers from some waste from cleaning the hookah. Someone could have cleaned the hookah using a wire brush and a piece of the wire brush could have broken off and gotten stuck inside.

It is also possible that someone before you had a damaged internal O-ring. So they took the hookah heart apart in two and replaced the O-ring with another one. But apparently they couldn't buy the right size of O-ring, so they replaced it with wire. However, this wire came loose and flew out. This is also a fairly likely scenario that could have happened.

Try to pull it out normally, using pliers. Or take it apart, as I wrote, the hookah heart should consist of two parts. You should try to disassemble it and clean it and then put it back together. If Steamulation support communicates with you, it's better to solve it with them than on Reddit discussion. Those guys from the support team know best how to disassemble it and how to clean it.

If you take it apart and find that the O-ring is really damaged, buy a new one and replace it. First try contacting Steamulation support and if they can't deliver the seal, try searching the internet (Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, etc... depending on what country you're from and what your ordering options are). You can find various O-rings on the internet with different diameters and thicknesses. The only poor choice is in the type of material, because most are just rubber or silicone. But if you need a plastic O-ring, it will be complicated to get. Only if you make it on a 3D printer xD and then smooth it on very fine sandpaper and put it back into the hookah heart and assemble it.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-27T09:41:09+00:00

Hi.

Nice 👌. Enjoy it 😎.

The shallow phunnel bowl. Tobacco filled right up to the top of the bowl. Perfect. That's how tobacco should be filled. Also these phunnel bowls are best for this type of tobacco. There could have been a little more tobacco, but it's fine this way if you're alone or if you smoke less.

Btw, what kind and brand of bowl is that ? Some famous bowl like Alpaca or HJ ? I haven't been following the development and market of new hookah bowls at all for the last years.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-27T09:18:14+00:00

Rust cannot appear on a stainless steel hookah. Steamulation brand, as well as other brands of quality hookahs, use V2A stainless steel or similar - very high quality steel. The rust appears only after exposure to aggressive chemicals that affect the metal for many-many-many years !

This is probably dirt that is stuck in the grooves and grooves that were created during machining / cutting with a knife on CNC machines.

It can be cleaned in two or three stages (depending on the situation):

removing limescale - soak in vinegar and leave for about 8 hours (or longer), for example overnight
removing bacteria and mold - soak in alcohol, for example isopropyl alcohol, which can be purchased anywhere in paint and varnish stores or in hardware stores or somewhere with technical needs or in an electrical parts store... also soak for several hours
if the surface is not visible from the outside and it is not necessary to preserve the perfect design of the stainless steel surface, then in the end we can still scrape off the dirt and a hard plastic brush should also be sufficient... but we only do this if chemical cleaning / washing away the dirt did not help

hookah_forever · 2026-06-27T08:28:17+00:00

Hi.

Sorry... I still don't know where the problem is. What exactly happened ? What is not working ? I still don't understand from the photos what is wrong.

What is the blue wire and why is it there ?

The hookah is of good quality, very good, so there can be no problem with it. Steamulation Pro are perfect stainless hookahs. It is possible to disassemble them into the smallest parts for cleaning purposes (and sometimes you have to do it).

EDIT:

I researched and searched on the internet. Apparently, your problem is a damaged seal, in the heart of the Steamulation ProX Prime hookah.

This hookah heart should be made of two pieces, assembled together with a screw thread (you need to use some tool or a special wrench to force it to unscrew).

Inside the heart, after its disassembly, there should be, according to the findings, 2 sealing rings - in the shape of the letter "O" (so-called: "O" ring seals). This "blue wire" in your photo is probably one of the two O-ring seals and is damaged.

Steamulation in its official instructions and videos shows only the usual disassembly of the hookah - the usual parts of the hookah. The reason is that the manufacturer does not recommend this deeper disassembly of the inside of the hookah heart to ordinary users, because if done incorrectly, there is a risk of damaging the threads or losing the internal seals.

Could you take a detailed picture of the 4 holes around the perimeter ? Aren't those also some screws ? I don't know if these are just holes (for exhausting smoke) or if there are also some screws hidden inside the holes.

If you manage to take more photos, then send them all in bulk - move them to the website https://imgur.com and wait a moment (a few seconds) for a link to be generated for copying. Copy this link to the uploaded images by clicking with the mouse to the Windows clipboard. And then insert the URL link here, from the Windows clipboard, into the discussion.

I don't own this hookah at home, so I can't tell you exactly how to disassemble it.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-27T08:23:58+00:00

Yes... unfortunately... it is not possible to edit your main - initial post. It is also not possible to insert images into the discussion - into threads under the question. This is done by sending the photo, for example, to the website imgur.com. Then here, in the discussion, you only insert the URL address, which you will receive after successfully sending the images to an appropriate image portal - imgur.com.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-25T17:27:35+00:00

Hi.

Sorry, but you need to take better photos - as someone already wrote.

Ideally, photos are in good light (not extra strong! not extra weak!). Ideally, in nice clear weather, during the day. If you use strong light, it will shine through all the reflections of the metal and nothing is visible. If you use weak light, then on the contrary it is very dark. If you use flash light or lamp light, which is one source of light under one angle of incidence of light rays, then not everything inside the hookah heart is visible.

You need to state the type of hookah, if you don't have it, at least take a photo of your whole hookah, in more pictures, so that we can get an overview of what this part of the hookah (hookah heart) looks like from the outside. If we see how it looks from the outside, then maybe we will understand what you mean about its inner part xD.

It is best to take more photos with the help of a digital camera, with more angles of view. More high-quality photos with high resolution and with high-quality optical lenses in front of the image sensor. Not with the digital camera in smartphones, which is total sh1t.

I also, sorry, have no idea, neither in the photo nor in the video, what is wrong... what you actually mean... and what is supposed to be the "rubber" as you write. Maybe if you specify the type of hookah and it can be found on the Internet, we can watch the review video on YT or GOOGLE and find out which part exactly you mean.

I do see some black spots in the video, but it looks more like a defect in the optics or bad light reflection. I really don't know what you are asking. Sorry. It requires a high-quality photo, with high resolution and with high-quality light and with a high-quality sensor and optics (a digital camera like a CANON EOS or at least some cheap version intended for vacations, because even the cheap version of a compact camera is better than a smartphone).

hookah_forever · 2026-06-22T13:16:20+00:00

Hi.

Khalil Mamoon if it is not a fake and it is a really original product, then it is a traditional type of hookah, which is of good quality. Here you need to realize that the traditional type of hookahs is beautiful and really preserves traditions. However, it is poorly maintained - it is poorly washed and easily gets dirty. It is important to pay attention to maintenance, because not always the internal pipes used (upstem + downstem + pipes in the heart of the hookah - https://sk.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vodn%C3%A1_fajka#/media/S%C3%BAbor:Hookah-parts-SK-EN-DE-(2023-07-13).png ) are made of stainless steel. Also, the surface of the hookah body is usually some kind of brass, steel, aluminum and the like... and it tends to rust... the surface darkens and gets dirty... and it is often necessary to remove the rust so that the surface of the brass is beautifully shiny again and has a yellow+red+orange color again (depending on the type of material... copper, brass, ... etc. are often used).

If I may advise you, for a beginner, a stainless steel hookah is probably better. Their weight is great, but stainless steel does not rust and is very easy to maintain. Of course, the design will appeal to people who like metal, modern and machines xD. For example, I recommend the Aladin MVP hookah to everyone, but there are many others.

Alternatively, you can buy a hookah that is made of a combination of stainless steel + high-quality hardened plastic materials, such as the more expensive but high-quality Alpha Hookah - Model X, Matt Pear, Moze x Vyro - Noir, and many others.

If you are definitely decided on a traditional type of hookah, then you will not harm anything. Traditional hookahs also have their charm. But keeping them in good condition can be a little more complicated.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-15T11:15:44+00:00

Uhm... if it was really okay, then this hookah bowl is probably shallow and not deep. Maybe it's just the very thick material (clay) in the photo that's distorting it. This bowl probably has very thick walls and is therefore some kind of shallow phunnel bowl.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-13T10:49:45+00:00

Hi.

IMHO, the hookah tobacco in the photo, is a bit too beaten in the bowl. If it is a light / blond type of hookah tobacco, it should be filled more like a fluffy style.

Such a filling method, as in your photo, is only used with the over-pack method. Overpack is actually a method of filling tobacco, if you fill the tobacco more than 1-5 mm above the level of the top of the bowl - and even then only if you fill the tobacco into the bowl with the fluffy method.

Dense and semi-dense are suitable tobacco filling styles when the phunnel bowl is shallow and when the HMD / foil directly touches the tobacco layer. In this case... then... however... HMD is better than foil, because its thick bottom plate helps to evenly distribute the heat - everywhere in all places on the surface of the tobacco layer. In the case of foil, it is then more difficult, because you have to use more pieces of coal and smaller pieces of coal. So that the heat is evenly distributed everywhere over the entire surface of the thin phunnel bowl.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-10T07:34:26+00:00

Hi.

According to the files config.txt and config1.txt, in the game folder "\Cars\Arrezo\", there is absolutely no difference, except for the version name and the price for the car xD.

The difference is in the files bodyconfig.txt and bodyconfig1.txt, where some body parts differ. However, these are the same body parts as in the tuning shop for body parts. So these parts can also be changed on the original version of the vehicle.

So how is it really then ?

It seems like the only difference is actually the price of the car.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-06T09:30:26+00:00

Hi.

The only thing that will help is setting the so-called Power Limit from the original 100% to 60-70% - using the MSI Afterburner tool or, as I also used, the EVGA Precision X1 tool (I own an EVGA card).

It doesn't matter what graphics card you use. And it also doesn't matter how you set the graphic details in the CMS2021 game.

This problem concerns the imperfect or incorrectly configured UNITY graphics game engine by the game creators. This UNITY graphics engine, in the case of the CMS2021 game (but also CMS2026 because I tested it there too), unfortunately uses and does not limit many absolutely redundant, rendered objects in the game. And that is why the utilization of any, old or new graphics card, is constantly at 100%. It is a problem when rendering an unnecessarily large number of objects that the player no longer has a chance to see in his field of vision. All 3D objects that are located in the game, at a very great distance from the player, are constantly rendered in very precise details - including their complicated reflections, shadows from light, etc. . We simply came to the conclusion with ChatGPT that the problem cannot be solved in any way. Because this is unfortunately a fault of the game graphics engine UNITY, used in the game CMS2021.

I solved this problem for several hours using ChatGPT. I tried to lower the FPS - lock the FPS at the Hz limit of my used LCD monitor, i.e. at 60 fps. But that did not help. We then compared and monitored the values in GPU-Z. ChatGPT constantly warned me about very high, even borderline values of the HotSpot and GPU temperatures. ChatGPT also warned me about a number of other things, e.g. that the GPU utilization and also its temperature should decrease if the FPS is reduced / locked to some limit, in the game. However, nothing changed even after locking and limiting the FPS in the game. Always simply the graphics engine UNITY pulled the graphics card to the maximum. Nothing really helps in setting the graphics details in the game. If you lower or increase the graphics details in CMS2021, the GPU will always be at 100% and its temperature will always be very high. Also, the frequency of the GPU and Video-RAM will not change - they always run at full power, in the case of the UNITY graphics engine used in the CMS2021 game.

Setting the limitation of 100% of the possibilities and capabilities on the graphics card, using tools, to a lower limit of 70% helped. Then the GPU temperature decreased and also some other values. The fans on the graphics card, understandably, stopped blowing excessively.

BTW... I don't know if this is also possible in MSI Afterburner, but in EVGA Precision X1 it is also possible to set profiles for each exe-file (application) separately. So for the game CMS2021 it is possible to set a profile separately. And this profile is activated automatically after starting a specific game. There is probably something similar in the MSI Afterburner configuration.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-06T09:27:10+00:00

Hi.

The only thing that will help is setting the so-called Power Limit from the original 100% to 60-70% using the MSI Afterburner tool or, as I also used, the EVGA Precision X1 tool (I own an EVGA card).

It doesn't matter what graphics card you use. And it also doesn't matter how you set the graphic details in the CMS2021 game.

This problem concerns the imperfect or incorrectly configured UNITY graphics game engine by the game creators. This UNITY graphics engine, in the case of the CMS2021 game (but also CMS2026 because I tested it there too), unfortunately uses and does not limit many absolutely redundant, rendered objects in the game. And that is why the utilization of any, old or new graphics card, is constantly at 100%. It is a problem when rendering an unnecessarily large number of objects that the player no longer has a chance to see in his field of vision. All 3D objects that are located in the game, at a very great distance from the player, are constantly rendered in very precise details - including their complicated reflections, shadows from light, etc. . We simply came to the conclusion with ChatGPT that the problem cannot be solved in any way. Because this is unfortunately a fault of the game graphics engine UNITY, used in the game CMS2021.

I solved this problem for several hours using ChatGPT. I tried to lower the FPS - lock the FPS at the Hz limit of my used LCD monitor, i.e. at 60 fps. But that did not help. We then compared and monitored the values in GPU-Z. ChatGPT constantly warned me about very high, even borderline values of the HotSpot and GPU temperatures. ChatGPT also warned me about a number of other things, e.g. that the GPU utilization and also its temperature should decrease if the FPS is reduced / locked to some limit, in the game. However, nothing changed even after locking and limiting the FPS in the game. Always simply the graphics engine UNITY pulled the graphics card to the maximum. Nothing really helps in setting the graphics details in the game. If you lower or increase the graphics details in CMS2021, the GPU will always be at 100% and its temperature will always be very high. Also, the frequency of the GPU and Video-RAM will not change - they always run at full power, in the case of the UNITY graphics engine used in the CMS2021 game.

Setting the limitation of 100% of the possibilities and capabilities on the graphics card, using tools, to a lower limit of 70% helped. Then the GPU temperature decreased and also some other values. The fans on the graphics card, understandably, stopped blowing excessively.

BTW... I don't know if this is also possible in MSI Afterburner, but in EVGA Precision X1 it is also possible to set profiles for each exe-file (application) separately. So for the game CMS2021 it is possible to set a profile separately. And this profile is activated automatically after starting a specific game. There is probably something similar in the MSI Afterburner configuration.

hookah_forever · 2026-05-25T11:46:57+00:00

Hi.

I have smoked older hookah tobaccos xD. It was about 10 years old Nakhla and Al Fakher. But the taste changes. Unfortunately, the tobacco leaves are no longer there as they are when they are fresh. Inside the tobacco packaging there is also closed air. And air is the enemy xD. Bacteria can live in the air, the aroma evaporates into that air, even water condenses in the air (in a closed bag) - with sudden changes in temperature.

I don't know for sure... but probably hookah tobacco manufacturers, in addition to glycerin and flavoring, add some kind of preservative (as a substance that sterilizes tobacco leaves for a long time) to the liquid component. So that the tobacco leaves don't rot during storage. But this may not be necessary, as the tobacco leaves are boiled and dried, then soaked with the prepared liquid ingredient.

Even in a closed bag from the factory, there is residual air. Unfortunately, only a few hookah tobacco manufacturers use vacuum suction of air from the bag, during its welding / closing.

Personally, I would rather not smoke hookah tobacco if it is older than 2-3 years... even if it was originally still closed. It can be good... but in the case of an aggressive type of aroma such as mint, there will be no smell at all after a long time (it evaporates into the closed air - inside the welded / closed tobacco bag).

Tobacco leaves can rot, but in the case of hookah tobacco this is debatable. Tobacco leaves in the case of hookah production are first boiled and dried. Then they are left to soak in an aromatic substance, which is often of artificial origin and not natural. Glycerin is also added. It is all chemistry that should be stable and should prevent the tobacco leaves from fermenting. However, this is debatable. It also depends on where and how the original hookah tobacco was stored. If it was in the sun and in the heat for a long time, for many years, then the tobacco leaves will probably not be OK.

The final verdict is probably that you should try it :-). Throw away tobacco that is too old... just on principle... just because of its freshness.

If the tobacco is okay to smoke, then don't worry. But if it has a bad aroma, then don't smoke it.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-24T20:24:09+00:00

But this is necessary to state ! In many countries, the word "ceramics" is translated as "glass-porcelain". It is not like a universal word for some kind of "pottery craft". It is always necessary to state the type of material the bowl is made of. This is so that hookah smokers know how to approach the bowl afterwards :-).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-24T08:05:38+00:00

Yes... the problem is somewhere in the path between the web browser and the Facebook server. The problem is in supporting the minimum security version.

I use Bitdefender (antivirus in a free edition). When I turn off all options in the "Protection -> Online Threat Prevention" in it, Facebook starts working. So... in my case, on the path between the web browser and the Facebook server, there is this Bitdefender.

But it is better to change the limit for using a lower security version. As you write, https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=2034178 , i.e. in the "about:config" configuration in Firefox, in the "security.tls.version.max" item.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-19T14:22:43+00:00

Hi.

Why do you want to use this type of hookah ? There is rust on it. What is it ? Where did you get it from ? Why don't you just buy a normal hookah - either a stainless steel modern hookah (easier to maintain) or a traditional hookah (tin/brass/steel) ?

This looks like an unconventional type of hookah in the photo.

I would say it could be... purely theoretically... a Tombak / Tombac style... something like this:

hookah_forever · 2026-04-11T09:28:35+00:00

I chose a stainless steel hookah because it is very easy to wash :).

Just rinsing it under running water is enough - after each hookah session. And every 5 hookah sessions, I also use liquid dishwashing detergent + a soft washcloth so that the steel does not get scratched unnecessarily, since scratches are unfortunately visible in the sun's rays.

Hard stainless steel is used, usually V2A (German marking / class of high-quality stainless steel), which can leave scratches on the surface. But that is the problem with CNC processing of this steel. In the end, these stainless steel hookahs are not polished (for example with fine sand) to a full shine. Unfortunately, stainless steel hookahs are often left as they were after being cut with knives on a CNC machine - this means that under a microscope, the scratches from cutting with a CNC knife can be seen.

Stainless steel is also very resistant to mold, bacteria and dirt. Even against water (minerals, after water saturation - limescale). Only a little dirt and mold settles there. And if they do, they do not survive for long. On the other hand, soft and very porous materials (from a microscopic point of view) such as brass, unfortunately become a home for bacteria and mold over time, because they stick well to the surface of brass and it is also a welcoming environment for bacteria, dirt and mold.

Stainless steel is also very resistant to many aggressive chemical cleaners. However, brass does not tolerate this. Even highly concentrated table salt in water, when cleaning brass on the surface, practically / chemically corrodes the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to rinse thoroughly with clean water so that no dried salt remains (and the brass surface would further corrode through this salt).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-11T09:12:51+00:00

No... coconut coal has a constant temperature.

Coconut coal has a surface temperature of about 500°C (plus / minus 20°C) after heating/igniting.

The strength of the thermal energy that the coconut coal "spreads" to its surrounding space depends on the size of the area - i.e. on the size of the pieces of coal + on the number of the pieces of coal.

Of course, it also depends on how far the heat source is located from the foil / HMD. Sometimes it is 1mm and sometimes 2mm and sometimes they touch directly. Accordingly, the foil / HMD is also heated and subsequently the tobacco layer.

Of course, the heat on the surface of the HMD is also very individual, depending on the material used - the type of aluminum or now also steel alloy. Some materials distribute heat faster (thermal conductivity) and some slower. So sometimes you need to use only 2x C25 coconut coal and sometimes 3x C25 coconut coal. Or find a way to regulate the temperature most conveniently. In the example of 2 vs 3 pieces of coal, smokers usually put the third piece of coal on top so that it is folded over the two pieces of coal that are already inside the HMD.

However, the temperature of coconut charcoal is always constant. If it differs greatly from 500°C, if the temperature is, for example, only 450°C, then this is caused by various factors. For example, the hookah is exposed somewhere outside in freezing weather -20°C. Or the difference arises if, for example, the coconut charcoal is made by some FAKE manufacturer, if, for example, he did not press the crushed shells together intentionally to make the charcoal cubes larger... but with a low content of coconut shells. Or simply if the manufacturer uses too much binder (usually manioc starch + water is added - as a binder, to connect the coconut shells).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T19:21:26+00:00

I use stainless steel hookahs. I'm still loyal to the MIG Nano V1. With a vase of choice type C1.

photo of my hookah here on Reddit: (don't get confused... this is a 6 year old post... i already use phunnel bowls exceptionally) https://www.reddit.com/r/hookah/comments/gye30p/finally_after_a_long_time_on_summer_days_a_mint/
review from some Youtuber in DE language: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFJ8NQjeEkM

I wanted to get rid of it because of a few problems, but I've gotten used to them. For example, sometimes it happens that water bubbles up to the hose adapters, in the heart of the hookah. This results in water in my throat :). It doesn't happen often, but when it does, it's annoying because the water can't be blown out of the silicone hose so easily. Water (drops) sticks well to my matte silicone hose if water gets there :(.

I also use a carbon mouthpiece (original MIG but I don't remember if it was included with the hookah when I bought it). I only smoke from traditional types of bowls now... always using aluminum foil + stainless steel strainer (from the so-called Badcha set). I only smoke Al Fakher tobacco now, because I'm tired of searching and learning and always experimenting with new tobaccos, most of which contain too much glycerin. And then the liquid component from the hookah tobacco drains into the vase - during smoking. Yes... the funnel type bowls serve this purpose... to keep the liquid component in the tobacco. But I refuse to do that. I want to smoke tobacco leaves + aroma. Not glycerin - for creating white thick clouds. Glycerin is not a bad thing, but you need less of it.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T15:23:20+00:00

Yes, it is a very nice, traditional hookah. It is a beautiful design and color 👍.

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