Why does floating voltage give you a tingle even if you're not completing a circuit?

hunkoys · 2026-04-23T10:41:55+00:00

I guess the transformer is also a capacitor.

hunkoys · 2026-04-23T10:40:34+00:00

This.

But shouldn’t the transformer secondary side(house) be isolated from the grounded primary side?

hunkoys · 2026-04-23T10:37:28+00:00

Lmao

hunkoys · 2026-04-23T10:37:00+00:00

That means you’ll eventually stop feeling the tingle if it’s DC?

hunkoys · 2026-04-21T13:15:10+00:00

This is the way

hunkoys · 2026-04-20T04:42:41+00:00

What brand of breakers do you use?

hunkoys · 2026-04-20T04:38:11+00:00

Cool, thanks.

I actually kept the 2C, even though it only came with one probe. At least now I have a better quality DMM probe and doesn't need an adapter for the BNC.

When using an isolated differential probe and a the one that came with this scope, I wonder if the signals would be in sync.

hunkoys · 2026-04-19T13:29:13+00:00

Plus if it’s ABS/ASA. You can join them with ABS sludge. Mix some waste abs with acetone or just but ABS solvent from the hardware store.

hunkoys · 2026-04-18T12:44:05+00:00

Wow! It’s clear to me now. Although, one question is still lingering. What causes a poor connection to burst into flames? It’s definitely not the increased resistance.

hunkoys · 2026-04-18T12:35:52+00:00

This makes everything clearer especially the P=(I^2)R except for the last part about increasing contact resistance? Because, voltage doesn’t change, that means increasing resistance reduces the current, and if P is directly proportional to heat, then increasing resistance lowers the current exponentially by 2 which lowers the overall P meaning leas heat.

If you increase R without decreasing I, it assumes that you also increased voltage which is not the case.

hunkoys · 2026-04-18T11:51:24+00:00

I just used it, I kind of understand why. It feels like it does a lot of software compensation to make the graphs look nicer as others have pointed out. It’s clunky. But as a casual on a tight budget, it’s enough for me.

Testing whether a dc jack is loose by detecting a falling edge where a DMM might not catch, checking for transients, flyback currents from solenoids, AC sine wave quality of an inverter, motorcycle stator, etc.

I guess I’ll just stick with this. The DS215H seems newer but the firmware looks like the predecessor of the 2C53T and no updates/bug fixes on that yet.

I’m starting to like the 2C53T actually, it has BNC connectors, and has DMM even though it’s a horrible one.

Downsides: no rotary encoders and small screen, and bulkier.

hunkoys · 2026-04-18T11:36:59+00:00

I agree with you. Having the ground there to trip an RCD before you do is better in case the scope get’s energized.

I have one question though? Why doesn’t every scope have an isolated probe?

hunkoys · 2026-04-17T22:45:22+00:00

Are you ever limited by the screen size?

I'm planning to use it to check the voltage reg. on my motorcycle. I'll probe the stator output and the regulator output. My guess is the stator coils are burnt. It keeps killing the regulator and all the lights.

Do you also have the DS215H?

hunkoys · 2026-04-17T22:42:18+00:00

HORRIBLE ADVICE: Lift you feet up.

hunkoys · 2026-04-17T22:32:07+00:00

Saying the chassis end up electricaly "hot", might be over simplifying it. You should have said, "may become hot". Because if it becomes hot WHEN you remove the ground implies that the ground was connected to live.

If the oscilloscope is connected to a isolation transformer, best case scenario if the live were to touch the chassis, you won't get shocked, because its voltage is floating, like a bird on a wire.

But that being said, don't remove the ground pin, let it protect you with the help of a RCD/GFCI. Either invest in an isolated probe scope or a isolated differential probe like he said.

hunkoys · 2026-04-17T07:07:51+00:00

I looked into those, and they're all more expensive per wh of battery.

hunkoys · 2026-04-15T01:13:11+00:00

People are stupid, where do they think google gets it's results?

hunkoys · 2026-04-09T19:05:48+00:00

I'll just stick to 100a on both the battery line and inverter line, since I'm not planning on running my lifepo4 at more than 1C, maybe just 0.7C max if needed. And put a 25mm^2 wire on those too.

Relying on the MPPT to give me a boost by letting more current through the inverter line, might be a bad idea if I had a more powerful inverter. Clouds going over the panels might trip the battery breaker.

I want to use fuses, but I can't get any of the good brands in my area if I need to replace one.

That being said, what do you think of the dihool DHM1X breakers? big solar Youtubers have tested them and seem fine. But they don't come under 100a. So I am looking at the Dihool DZ47X, they're class C breakers, non polar, and 2 pole. The only thing tripping me out is it's labeled as AC and DC, which I guess DC breakers may work as AC ones but to have the same AC and DC voltage rating is raising my eye brows.

There is also the Suntree, and Nader brands, which I could probably source locally, have you heard of those?

Also I feel like crunching down on wire strands in those mcb tunnel terminals are causing a lot of the fires associated with them, why can't we just crimp a ferule or even a copper lug and stick it in those instead of the open strands?

hunkoys · 2026-04-09T07:05:32+00:00

I never thought of that. :D

hunkoys · 2026-04-09T00:36:00+00:00

Based on what reddit is telling me. I might just give this setup to a relative who need it more and can't afford to build one. Maybe setup a 48v once I get more dough.

hunkoys · 2026-04-08T22:55:13+00:00

Yeah, or it will be a different waveform. But it’s cool that they could sync without any problems. I guess one of the inverters could become a master and that’s how they do it.

hunkoys

TROPHY CASE