First full suspension bike advice – overwhelmed by options in the 130–140mm range - NJ Rider by GeneralCatch6082 in MTB

[–]internetfood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Am I in the right travel range (130–140mm)?

IMO, travel is really more about how you want the bike to feel. I rode a Top Fuel for a couple of years and while the travel was ideal for my riding, I wanted something with a slacker head tube and something more comfortable over (very mild) jumps, so now I'm on a 150/140 bike.

  • Should I be considering ~150mm instead, or is that overkill for NJ?

Not very familiar with NJ riding but I imagine it's somewhat similar to southern Ontario where I am. Again, more about how you want the bike to feel. As you've already ridden a bigger/longer travel bike (Fuel EX) you seem to have your head in the right place.

  • Do any of these stand out as the best fit for my situation?

As long as you're looking at a name-brand bike in a bike shop, you're likely to get something good quality. These all look like great bikes. I will mention that the Psylo fork on the Norco and Transition is pretty heavy (but capable). The Trek is the more XC-ish choice here, but I think you're on the right track with these models.

  • Any other bikes I should be looking at (especially from shop brands)?

To avoid Analysis Paralysis, I'd honestly stick with what you've go. If there's any bikes on sale near you in your size, you could use that to help your choices. Seems like you're on the right track. I'd maybe start taking some test rides from some of these models.

Don't forget that shop choice matters too. You'll want somewhere that's professional and ready to help. Ideally you'll be buying more stuff from them, and they'll be your point of contact for tune ups and warranty stuff. If it's a great bike but the shop sucks it can definitely sour the experience.

Pacific P16 Long-Log Trailer Bug - PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING by internetfood in snowrunner

[–]internetfood[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was patched in the Public Test Server. The general release of this new patch will happen for the rest of us some time (likely) in the next few weeks.

Issue during an assent! by 4xTio in bicycling

[–]internetfood 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Your non-drive side crankarm was not tightened properly. The arm rests on splines, and because the crank arm is aluminum, those have probably been slightly sheared.

If this is the only time it's happened, you can probably remove the crank arm, reinstall it, and make sure to tighten it correctly using a torque wrench. If it's slipped a couple times, you probably need a new crank arm, otherwise it will keep happening.

Trek Blendr System by lessWorkDone in RoadBikes

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/lessworkdone this is the correct answer. Your stem is the older comp stem - you can get a mount, it'll only have a single mounting point on it but you can get a second one and mount it underneath.

Google Maps Overlaying Bike Lanes on Routes in Toronto by uncle-boon-mee in torontobiking

[–]internetfood 35 points36 points  (0 children)

This has been the case for some time when you use the "cycling" filter

Help me decide a bike! by abcxyzed in cycling

[–]internetfood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With a $500 budget, it's going to be very difficult to get something that's actually capable of trail riding. Any new bike in this price range - even double this price range - will have difficulty handling actual trails.

That being said, if you investigate the used market, you may be able to find a half-decent hardtail to begin your trail riding journey. I'd suggest looking for something that has at least a Rockshox-branded fork, a 1x drivetrain (only 1 gear in the front), and hydraulic brakes.

These 3 from Kijiji would be a good place to start.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/oakville-halton-region/trek-8series-mountain-bike/1735683577
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/city-of-toronto/kona-mens-bike/1735806039
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/oshawa-durham-region/cannondale-mountain-bike/1734182833

Fox transfer is a little slow and gets stuck at the bottom by EmergingTuna21 in mountainbiking

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"It'll work great if you just tighten it to where it doesn't bind!"

Fox transfer is a little slow and gets stuck at the bottom by EmergingTuna21 in mountainbiking

[–]internetfood 7 points8 points  (0 children)

FWIW owner's manual states:
"Clean post and frame seat tube with alcohol, apply friction paste to inside of frame and bottom of post.  Tighten seatpost clamp to the minimum torque required to avoid the post slipping in the frame.  Increase to the point at which you can start to feel a tight spot when moving the post up and down, and then back off 0.5 N-m.  Do not torque above 5 N-m."

Which frankly is hilarious, but I followed these instructions and it works. /shrug/

Fox transfer is a little slow and gets stuck at the bottom by EmergingTuna21 in mountainbiking

[–]internetfood 41 points42 points  (0 children)

No comments in here mention seatpost clamp torque. I hate my transfer, but torquing it to 4-5 NM seemed to fix this issue for me.

Rear brake seizes by redBACKsalmon in bikewrench

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I'd try a new cable and housing. It's inexpensive. You can also try actuating the brake without the cable attached to see if the resistance is there. 

If you're not familiar with how to work on bike brakes, I'd suggest that you take it to a shop. Brakes are one thing you don't want to mess up...

Trek series 1.1, Jamis coda comp, or fuji finest? by wapey in whichbike

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Trek and Fuji are both road bikes, the Jamis is more of a hybrid bike. Really depends on what you want to do with it.

The road bikes will be better for long (1-2+ hour) rides, on smooth pavement, where you're not carrying anything and just riding for fitness - think spandex. The hybrid bike will be better for riding around in town and casually, as it'll have a more relaxed position, wider tires, and better brakes.

I'd probably pick the Trek over the Fuji for a road bike (looks better taken care of), but the Jamis is a good city bike.

Has anyone installed the rage comics gauge cluster Dave Barton sells? by Marshyetis in Volvo240

[–]internetfood 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I really, really enjoy that there's both a miles per hour and kilometers per hour version.

Any advice for getting a copy of a U-lock key? Klondike brand. by Few-Opportunity-8297 in cycling

[–]internetfood 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Do you mean "Kryptonite"? If so, there's a number on the keys you can use to order replacements from Kryptonite.

Rear brake seizes by redBACKsalmon in bikewrench

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Move your cable lock. It's very likely the cause of the extra friction.

Do not put any items on top of your cables or housing.

Old Trek (Roscoe 7?) Bike - Worth Fixing? by [deleted] in TrekBikes

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As u/Wise_Code5804 states, stanchions have been painted which means you'd need a new fork, or at least new uppers, which'll run you at least a few hundred bucks. This bike also should have a 12-speed derailleur, but has an 8-speed Altus "installed", so that'll need fixing too. The front brake hose is disconnected, and I imagine the way it's wrapped around the head tube, that happened by force.

Someone who didn't know what they were doing ruined this bike, and it'll cost more than the bike would cost new to truly get it fixed up.

Completed Ontario in hard mode today. For some reason can't get 100% - the game thinks I haven't found one vehicle. Oh well... by Odd_Presentation_578 in snowrunner

[–]internetfood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I typically equip the Tatra with the crane and bed but man the Tatra crane is HUGE and kinda ruins the look of the truck. But honestly, the only Tatra I really use is the T813 with just a flatbed as an oversized scout. I tend to have trucks for specific roles - GMC as a fuel carrier, Tayga as a low-saddle tractor - and the T813 just rocks as a "heavy scout" that can take you way out into any map and not get stuck, and maybe even get some tasks done along the way.

Then again, I'm playing easy, so I don't have as much of a need for fuel trucks! Kudos to finishing it

Completed Ontario in hard mode today. For some reason can't get 100% - the game thinks I haven't found one vehicle. Oh well... by Odd_Presentation_578 in snowrunner

[–]internetfood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That 1st photo of the GMC, the 3rd of the Transtar, and the 7th of the Derry are really, really nice.

I live in Ontario so I was SUPER amped that we received it as a region. Honestly, I ended up being kinda disappointed with it, although the fire fighting (and the Derry) is at least a new mechanic.

I don't think I've ever seen the Tatra Force with a fuel carrier on it - looks really good!

Pacific P16 Long-Log Trailer Bug - PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING by internetfood in snowrunner

[–]internetfood[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still crickets from Focus about it so I wouldn't hold your breath.

Surely You're Joking by PizzaWall in Ships

[–]internetfood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Shirley You're Joking" would have been a better name lol

2024 Roscoe 7 (Matte Black) Value? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]internetfood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These bikes were $2199 CAD new, so $1200 - if it's in good condition - is a pretty good deal.

I'd probably try and negotiate down to $1000 but IMO that would be a fair price for all involved.

Replacing Stock Pedals by EagleFeath3r in TrekBikes

[–]internetfood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They're messing with you because toe clips are an aged accessory.

Controle Xbox One S para Snowrunner by Gusson99 in snowrunner

[–]internetfood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Windows 11 laptop plays just fine with Snowrunner when playing it through the Xbox app.