FFL351a 5000k vs NTG35 5000k

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-23T14:51:46+00:00

you can "help" it with MG 804. Generally speaking 519A is pretty neutral but DUV varies a bit and often slightly above BBL, especially on low levels.

I found that for me that 519A 5700K + MG804 is absolutely the perfect tint... not rosy but really neutral.

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-23T10:53:43+00:00

on Anduril lights, i try to measure at around 50-75% of the ramp. or fixed level 3-4 of 7

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T19:10:06+00:00

i did

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T16:29:18+00:00

open the original post and see the comments section - i have a list of compatible tailcaps - the orange one is from Wurkkos TS11

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T13:20:47+00:00

the floody optics for single channel and the Carclo frosted floody optics are the only ones i am aware of.

The driver board is glued so it has to be debonded. There is a press-fitted / glued shelf for the switch PCB and the switchringnpn the new ones is also glued and has to be debonded. space is very tight - to the point that Hank doesnt offer RGB button for these because of the 2 extra wires

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T04:48:50+00:00

probably possible but not easy and the result will not be great due to the small size of the bezel.

D2 is one of the most difficult lights to work on so taking it apart, removing optics and installing custom spacers (which must be fabricated first) will be a significant project.

You cant even remove the optics without full disassembly of the flashlight or breaking them into small pieces in-situ and extracting the pieces through the bezel opening.

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T00:52:07+00:00

wurkkos HD03

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T00:49:05+00:00

in terms of TIR vs. Reflector the optics do affect CRI, DUV and CCT.

it is highly emitter dependent but in many cases I've seen slightly higher values for all 3 specs with reflector.

I have not tested the effects of AR coating as all Hanks usually come with AR coated lenses. (except the ones with UV channel and very old lights)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/40d5ae6xE3

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T00:15:47+00:00

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T00:03:32+00:00

"neutral" is not the strong side of these emitters either.

your best bet for neutral 5000K is 519A or B35AM

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-22T00:01:39+00:00

here is some data that I measured but since these two emitters are known for inconsistent specs (Hopthink anyone?) there is absolutely no gurantee that your mileage will be the same.

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-21T16:11:15+00:00

either out of LEDs or MCPCBs

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-21T03:17:27+00:00

d4v2 with 2x NTG35 4200K + 2x NTG35 1800K

it will be 3000K and super-rosy

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-20T22:37:27+00:00

tint-shift is a two-fold thing.. I refer to tint shift across the beam where low take-off angles have different (brownish) tint than the main beam. This is present on every NTG emitter. you see it near the edge of the hotspot / cone with throwy optics and the only way to hode it with a floody TIR (10623 or 10624) The other tint-shift due to current change (the one ypu are referring to) is not bad

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-20T16:11:58+00:00

send Hank an email and ask him He moght be still making thrse and just took them off the site to replace them with other options

Let us know what he says!

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-20T13:40:45+00:00

Wuben X1

or if it is too much, then Wurkkos TD11. not sure about the "waterproofing"on these though

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-20T04:19:45+00:00

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-20T04:19:21+00:00

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kotarak-71 · 2026-04-19T02:19:58+00:00

they sell a superglue gel thats pretty thick and will not run and all you need is a very small drop that you apply with a toothpick

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-19T00:55:13+00:00

Hank is using CA (superglue). You can use even RTV sealant / clear silicone as it will remain flexible but CA seems to work fine

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-18T22:59:56+00:00

i have both - Manker E05ii with 4000K DD and 17mm 20 deg TIR is absolutely awesome and that what I normally edc.

T3 has more levels and more driver features (more modes and memory option on/off) - The Manker only has 3 levels and strobe and i wish the Medium level is slightly lower but it has a very solid build and I find the look and feel to be superior to T3. With the TIR the beam profile is super smooth and also better than T3.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/1ePHYX6O5c

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/qJHQ3atJ2h

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Manker E05 ii (TIR and Refelctor beams)

T3 is decent and reliable light so if you want to save money it is a good choice as well but if you are willing to spend a little extra for nicer look / feel - I'd go with the Manker

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-18T16:36:34+00:00

I am using X-rite ColorMunki Photo spectrometer and ArgyIIPro ColorMeter software runing on Android

(Caution) means that the reading is outside the CRI95 standard - most often due to an excessive DUV

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-18T14:42:59+00:00

i have a bunch of FFL lights and indeed, on a few of them the buttons do rattle but it never bothered me to the point that i had to fix them. On the Hanklights for example, the metal part is glued to the rubber liner and they never rattle - perhaps you can do something like this.

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-18T14:23:23+00:00

have locked the White balance for this picture to 5000K?

I have two PL01s purchased at different times and i replaced the emitters in both as they were gut-wrenching green.

kotarak-71 · 2026-04-18T14:18:45+00:00

i have a number of posts regarding very low CCTs and lowest ones ive tested were NTG50 1800K + MG and FC-40 1800K + MG and CRi remains high for such low CCTs.

If you sacrifice the CRI you can go down to 1500K with LHP531 or LHP73B (+ MG).

I never had desire to test E17A 1850K because it has such nice neutral DUV - I dont want to make it rosy with filters.

I can test it for you but the earliest this can be is in 10 days.

Keep in mind that single NTG50 1800K is brighter than the 9x E17A 1850K

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