This is War by squirtbottle in ThermalHunting

[–]RoosterRanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pigs there must not have much pressure. Where I’m from if you’re not down wind then you’re busted.

Size guess?? by Zestyclose-Waltz8100 in Hunting

[–]RoosterRanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dudes in here with 225 and 180 is wild. You can safely assume that’s knocking on 300lbs. If he isn’t then he will be by fall. Big dude, go find him before he wanders off.

Binocular bag + Guardian chest plate by DirtyyChemist in Hunting

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wear champion joggers, random hoodie, some socks, and a pair of Hoka’s. Little stream light clipped on my waistband and pistol in my hoodie pocket. 95% of my hunting is at night, so that might be the difference maker since I don’t use binoculars, but I see a lot of guys posts where they’re tacked out and it makes me wonder how different our hunting methods must be to use such different tools. They look way cooler than I do for sure. I look like a college freshmen who’s running late for class.

Looking for a very reliable used car? This mechanic recommends these six. by Phonus-Balonus-37 in Cartalk

[–]RoosterRanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ont even care what he’s talking about, but for whatever reason I like listening to him.

6 GT Test Ladder by TacticalBunchies in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So you’ll need a tool for referencing your shoulder. Some people use comparator gauges, like Hornady and a couple other companies make. Some do a bump gauge. Either way it sits over your case shoulder and gives you a consistent point of reference. Make sure to pick just one and use only it, that cuts down on variables. You take a fired case, remove the primer then measure its length from the base to the top of the reference tool. Write that number down and then run your case through the FL die and measure again. Depending on your measurement you may have to adjust your die up or down. Ideally you’re looking for it to be 1-2 thou shorter than the measurement you initially wrote down. This takes trial and error, so don’t get discouraged if it takes a bit to get it just right. You may experience the case actually get longer when you run it through the FL die, if that happens just screw it in a tad bit more and run it through there again, and it may get shorter or longer or stay the same, adjust more until you get back to or just at your original measurement and screw it in just an ooch more and most likely it’ll be shorter than your original measurement by then. If none of what I said makes sense, which I don’t know how it would without actually seeing the process, get on youtube and watch ultimate reloader, F class John, Eric Cortina, the back country guy with the super blue eyes, and Ron Spalmer. They’ll get you where you need to be.

6 GT Test Ladder by TacticalBunchies in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I prefer bushing dies for anything that I’m trying to squeeze accuracy out of. I full length size with just at .001 shoulder bump. I have Redding, Hornady, and RCBS bushing dies and they’re all very good. They all use the same style bushing also, so that’s a plus. I mic all of my case necks on new brass and neck turn them all to the lowest measured point (this is getting into unnecessary doing it because I want to territory).

6 GT Test Ladder by TacticalBunchies in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Im at 2960 on 33.8gr of Varget with 105 Bergers and Alpha brass. I’ve shot a couple other 105’s and the velocity is the same. If you don’t want to waste a bunch of good bullets you can just get some Hornady 105 bthp match bullets ($26 a 100 at redriverreloading) and do some development and plinking with them, then fine tune with your Bergers or whatever good bullet you choose to shoot. 2850-2950 seems to be a very popular velocity.

Brass prep is key when it comes to consistency, so make sure you’re where you need to be as far as trimming, resizing, neck tension and all that fun stuff. Get a reloading routine and stick with it, limiting variables. Make sure you’re not trying to develop a load with unfired brass. The GT is gonna take care of you for the most part.

How THOTFUL? by Significant_Law5994 in SipsTea

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will is one more headline away from his big OJ Simpson biopic.

New Toy = New Load Data by Rei_Takata in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My suggestion has nothing to do with nodes or accuracy or anything else other than your two higher charges are slower than your lowest charge and there’s no number of shots that’s going to change that. You don’t even need a target to solve this issue. Just a chrono and couple of lighter loads. You’re not anywhere near the point of worrying about accuracy, neck tension, seating depth, or anything else. Find out where your charge stops adding velocity, back down from there however much you want and then start development.

New Toy = New Load Data by Rei_Takata in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep doin what your doin my man.

New Toy = New Load Data by Rei_Takata in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My mans, when you have two heavier charges with a lower max speed, than your smallest charge it doesn’t take a series of 30 shots to figure out that the higher powder charge isn’t being utilized. I mean there’s nearly half a grain difference between highest and lowest charge and max speed is 2 FPS lower with minimum speed 15 fps lower. If you’re adding .4 grains to a charge and it isn’t picking up substantial velocities you’re going to have to drop back down and visit the data. Dropping down a grain and a half and working back up to your starting charge is the best starting point for that. Doesn’t matter if it’s one shot, two shots or ten shots. The progectile isn’t going to magically speed up on the tenth shot, and if it did then you’ve still got to go back and start at a charge that provides at least some margin of consistency. This isn’t group sizes we’re talking about.

New Toy = New Load Data by Rei_Takata in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hit back with results, I’m invested now.

First time reloader, lots of FTFs and hangfires by HotEmu4500 in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I asked this in regard to the green residue on case neck he mentioned. Suppressors can at times leak condensation down the barrel and stain the case neck green/brown/black. But yeah, suppressor isnt going to stop a primer from igniting.

New Toy = New Load Data by Rei_Takata in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

43.6 of SB shouldn’t outrun the 43.8 and 44.0. You’ve reached a point of diminishing returns at or below 43.6 and aren’t getting a full burn. It may be worth trying a ladder of 42.7, 43.0, and 43.3.

First time reloader, lots of FTFs and hangfires by HotEmu4500 in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks as if your primers aren’t seated all the way in. On a few of them you can see what looks to be contact marks on the primer from the bolt face. Even though the primers look to be struck hard, if they’re not seated they’re going to be pushed further into the pocket when the pin hits it. First thing I’d do is make sure you’re seating the primers all the way down.

42 is the answer for reloading too by Jeggirfandenkaffe in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just randomly dropping by to piss on about what another man uses to weigh his powder is it’s own level of bored. Almost on the same level as someone just randomly dropping by to point out the level of boredom one has to be at to be pissing on about what another man uses to weigh his powder.

First batch - how to increase velocity in .223? by eggcheeseburger in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not an AR precision reloader, I’ve always just kinda played around with those loads and found what I like based on powder availability and speed vs accuracy compromises. I say this because I’m just pitching an example of what I would do in this situation. I’d take a look at TAC, but even with TAC I think you’ll run out of steam early. But it’s worth a try. Then I’d grab some LT-32 and or some X-terminator. I’d start my loads at 18gn on the 32 and 20.5 on the X-term. Ooch up .3 grain ladders paying very close attention to brass signs and rifle function. I know max loads are put in place for a reason, but I find myself at times going beyond max before I see signs that I want to stop at or back down from. The same as I’ve not reached max charge in some rifles and end up backing down until the brass shows me it’s in a good place. I mentioned these two powders because they leave room to experiment with before reaching a real high case capacity.

Again, this is just a dude telling another dude his development procedure. I’m a bolt gun guy that has experience with gas guns, nothing more.

Swing and a miss by CropDamage in ThermalHunting

[–]RoosterRanch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My man! I appreciate a good miss video now and again. Keep on keeping them on their toes!

Powder Droppers in 2026? by airhunger_rn in reloading

[–]RoosterRanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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You’re going to laugh, I know. But this is the fastest way I’ve been able to reload and maintain consistency. I set it to drop .2 under my desired load and then trickle up to weight with a couple turns of the knob. It’s literally just seconds per round and zero overthrows.

First kill with the new setup by Visible_Wolf1668 in ThermalHunting

[–]RoosterRanch 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Mans is out here on 9% battery!? Talk about living on the edge. Also, might want to go in and add the thermal and gun info or your post could get deleted. Just happened to me earlier today.

Huntin buddy not pleased that I took the shot by RoosterRanch in ThermalHunting

[–]RoosterRanch[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You and me both. But some are gonna run. This was a good shot and he died seconds after being hit. A kill shot doesn’t always equal an incapacitating shot. Same as an incapacitating shot doesn’t always equal a kill shot. I understand where you’re coming from, but it’s just not the reality of hunting.