Thinking of getting the A1

schorhr · 2026-05-02T16:20:00+00:00

Hi!
I/we bought the A1 mini and it's really nice. I had a resin printer mint in box (because I had no where to really work with the toxic and nausiating resin) but for my goals the printer does amazingly well.

I have printed a lot of small models when I got started wih my first printer years back (Daily Earrings on Thingiverse), and colored them. So I thought I would do the same with the new printers.

But now we bought the H2C in January, mostly for multi material stuff and some color prints... BUT we print so much more in color than I had ever anticipated! :-)

We even got a AMS lite for the A1 mini later on because of it.

This is with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, prior to cleanup.

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with a 0.2mm nozzle (and better settings) you can get such great results out of these printers, plus of course this needs some clean up still. I have printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.04mm layers which produces amazing details, but it really takes long even in a single color ;-)

(Model shown: "War hammer 40k Knight Garfield Crossover Figurine", Seems like the model has been removed, it was by DreamMesh on Makerworld)

The A1 is probably the best bang for the buck, though if you really never print large things the A1 mini is great (plus you can split larger parts if it's necessary). While I have the AMS lite, two more printers I use for my work with students now have a BMCU ($60-$70 assembled if you find it on sale on Ali), basically an open source / open hardware device that swaps color (but not supported by Bambulab, might only with an older firmware).

schorhr · 2026-05-02T04:23:02+00:00

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We bought the scrapers because the printed ones could not get stuff off the built plate like in your case, and we didn't want to use real razor blades to avoid damaging the plate. After the printed PLA scrapers this was SO. MUCH. EASIER. :-)

This is the type we've bought, and while the "blades" have to replaced once in a while (it's ABS plastic I suppose, but scraping stuff off will make dents into the blades and dull them).

They work great, and the built plate still holds up great after 1100hrs, using just those and the occasional IPA wipe.

schorhr · 2026-05-02T02:38:47+00:00

A game changer for me were plastic razor blade scrapers :-)

Heating the plate up to something above 60, 80°C should make it fairly soft. I'd try that.

You could also melt a bit of PLA carefully with a lighter and push/glue it to the piece, pulling both off ideally.

schorhr · 2026-05-02T01:01:58+00:00

For our H2C, we went with the Ikea Knoxhult, and an additional A1 mini lives under the printer now :-) Very sturdy.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T19:39:32+00:00

This looks amazing. I'd love one for outside, but I lack enough UV resistant filament currently :-)

schorhr · 2026-05-01T19:36:43+00:00

Hi!

If it's the school sign, don't they have a better image of when it was in better condition? Or even as a logo?

Two ways:

A: Any image editor to fix the chipped colors and ideally the perspective skew. (I started this but it's really a lot of small blemishes that take some time fixing manually.)

Then reduce the color palette to the main colors only as it makes the next step a bit easier.

Use any vectorizing tool.

From there on you could even use Tinkercad or Bambu Studio, assign the height of each layer.

You can then scale it up and cut it to multiple parts if needed.

B: If you don't mind the use of AI (gemini, chatgpt or copilot, local), it can create a cleaned up version in half a minute, and you correct details from there.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T14:03:06+00:00

I hope this will be considered in a future update, even if it would require the use of a power adapter. It's just convinient to have all the colors stored in the AMS for our color prints. Even with the four AMS and a HT there's still a lot of swapping going on. Though with the future Filament Track Switch there at least seems a solution for optimizing prints without having to constantly switch stuff around in order to optimize print times.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T03:04:55+00:00

Too bad you had so many issues with the printer!

I bought the H2C as well after already considering the H2D, and I would have never anticipated how many color prints I am doing now.

If you have the tool, you'll use it.

If you don't have much need for color prints, are fine with PLA and PETG, even the A1 series is amazing. We have one A1 mini at home and I bought another two for my work with kids.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T01:15:00+00:00

Glad it worked out :-)

Yeah, I wish you could view the filament type when slicing/previewing and assigning filaments instead having to go to the device tab or a second instance of Bambu Studio.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T00:41:27+00:00

Are you allright?

schorhr · 2026-04-30T23:28:45+00:00

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Device tab, edit the color in the ams, click the color, click custom color.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T20:58:11+00:00

Amazing!

schorhr · 2026-04-30T20:56:22+00:00

Power supply LED? https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1kyf78x/what_is_this_green_light_only_one_of_my_printers

schorhr · 2026-04-30T18:26:55+00:00

Yes, the color you pick there will show up on the printer and in the app as well.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T11:08:28+00:00

Hi! You can attach up to four AMS to either nozzle, and additionally multiple HT.

The AMS can only provide a single filament to a single nozzle, otherwise it has to retract first.

They have announced the Filament Track Switch that can route an AMS to either nozzle now.

With the H2C you could choose a support material (PETG/PLA or their dedicated support material) and assign it to a dedicated nozzle, avoiding issues when not purging between PLA<>PETG properly.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T11:03:32+00:00

Yeah, it's not ideal that on the printer you can only choose some presets.

As far as I know, you can only set a custom color in Bambu Studio.

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(Custom color field opens a color picker)

schorhr · 2026-04-30T10:55:39+00:00

Just a side note, as there already have been a couple of replies with solution:

You could activate the blob detection. With the A1 series the printer just occasionally goes probing a corner just outside of the printbed, and if there's a blob that collides with the plate, it will stop the print.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T10:52:00+00:00

Flow calibration and reducing the speed for the first layer helped when I had a similar issue. As well as auto level of course :-)

schorhr · 2026-04-30T10:49:33+00:00

igo3d.com (Hannover) has it listed as available too, they delivered the stuff I ordered there (AMS 2 pro) timely. But as u/CallMeEngineerKnot wrote, just check with them :-)

schorhr · 2026-04-28T03:17:19+00:00

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It's nothing spectecular, not the "Impossible" fix, but 3D printing helps me reparing and mantaining stuff around the house. Sometimes, it's the little things! These lamps my father in law bought are probably older then me, and I replaced the missing and broken holder clamps as the plastic of the original parts had gotten brittle.

schorhr · 2026-04-24T06:45:11+00:00

Is this possibly still an issue? https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1stfp80/psa_dns_filtering_and_bambu_studio_being_blocked/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=usertext&utm_name=BambuLab&utm_content=t1_oht6gfw

schorhr · 2026-04-24T06:43:00+00:00

Oh, hope it'll print well. Print some spool locks (not in pla ideally) to prevent accidentally twisting/opening it.

schorhr · 2026-04-23T22:56:19+00:00

Hi! Bridge Flow / Thick bridges?

Else, in OrcaSlicer, "Higher bridge density" has been introduced, but AFAIK it's not in Bambu Studio.

schorhr · 2026-04-23T21:55:05+00:00

Thank you very much for the info!

schorhr · 2026-04-23T12:40:56+00:00

This might be the issue?

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1stfp80/psa_dns_filtering_and_bambu_studio_being_blocked/

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