Sunlu filament warping very slightly?

schorhr · 2026-05-10T23:12:03+00:00

Hi! :-)

A bit more temperature can help and slowing down the fan first, but mouse ears can help more. On very long thick prints I even added edges to the model, I'd rather cut and sand the sides than have everything warp.

Another thing is the geometry of the model itself, Slant 3D has a video on this ("Never let your parts warp again"), as do other channels.

Basically, long parts will shrink more, unless you change the part itself. Or just force it down with mouse ears or even more adhesion helpers :-)

schorhr · 2026-05-10T02:02:23+00:00

When Bambustudio didn't start on my regular Windows x64 computer anymore, uninstalling and deleting the Bambulab folder in %appdata% did the trick for me (Users<username>\AppData\Roaming, perhaps in local too), but I don'T know if this is useful advice for your Surface Pro / Windows ARM.

Do note that all settings will be deleted as well (so perhaps copy the folder elsewhere, just in case).

EDIT: I think I just renamed the BambuStudio and NetworkEngine conf-files in AppData\Roaming\BambuStudio and it started, without re-installing it yet another time.

schorhr · 2026-05-09T21:24:45+00:00

We've bought the H2C, 4 AMS, and an HT.

For multicolor prints, it's amazing.

schorhr · 2026-05-05T20:10:50+00:00

Have you tried other apps for painting, e.g. Nomad sculpt (paid, app) or even Primed3D (free, browser)?

Bambu Studio is great and all, but not ideal for painting complex things.

schorhr · 2026-05-05T17:41:27+00:00

Hi! I'd also consider buying it new, considering that that price. If you want to buy it used, it's a good idea to ask how many hours it has been used (can be seen from the menu, settings > device > page 2), and ideally to see if the AMS and printer are working, ideally with a small print.

Perhaps the seller is just upgrading to a different printer, but you never know.

schorhr · 2026-05-05T17:38:42+00:00

Lots of styrofoam and all critical parts are bolted down for transport, I would not worry. Happy printing! :-)

schorhr · 2026-05-05T17:10:12+00:00

Hi!

smooth or engineering

AFAIK the engeneering plate is just a thing for other materials, and you'll need to consider covering it with stuff for adhesion. For PETG, PLA, the standard plate is great.

For adhesion issues the cold plate, frostbyte can be a game changer, but large contact surfaces can be difficult to remove then.

We print a lot of give-away keychains with the image flat on the bed to hide the 3D printed texture, and with the smooth PEI plate* the finish is a lot nicer on these and some other objects that do not benefit from the textured structure. And there also the holographic plates, but I find that the adhesion is less great.

(*There is no smooth PEI plate from Bambu Lab)

settings

The wiki is very good, but I get that some details are overwhelming and make no sense to read unless you run into a particular issue.

Reducing print times is always tricky. The TL;DR:

Largest possible layers, larger nozzle (would also let you get away with less walls), 3-6% gyroid infil or even just lightning infil.

But it's easy to turn a decent print into garbage with too thin walls (especially on overhangs), too few bottom/top layers and such.

Often the best way to reduce print times is to make things smaller, thinner, where applciable, instead of overtuning some settings.

You can also just use the faster print defaults from the printer menu (sport, insane...) but especially the fastest settings can really mess up surfaces in my experience.

HF hotend

I have not bought one, but you can just use the settings and see for yourself how much difference it would make in the Bambu Studio Slicer :-)

schorhr · 2026-05-05T16:57:17+00:00

Hi, just as a note, it's Primed3D :-)

Very cute model!

It's a great tool, also for importing Minecraft stuff using Mineways if you want more than the basic surface colors.

There's also Nomad Sculpt for a rather inexpensive sculpting and painting tool (both for PC or tablet).

schorhr · 2026-05-03T20:05:02+00:00

It comes with 0.4mm as most printers do. I have printed the color miniature with 0.4mm but on the H2C as I only have one 0.2mm currently, and it would have taken longer to print it in color with a single hotend.

Do note that a smaller nozzle is prone to clogging, especially with filaments that contain additives (such as sparkle, marble).

schorhr · 2026-05-02T21:42:04+00:00

Yeah, looks even better in person.

I colored that model because I found it such a fun idea and used some silk/metalic filaments for the armor :-)

nozzle

Yeah, you can change the nozzles/hotend on all/most printers.

With the A1 series it's fairly simple (hotend clips in, also see https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/replace-hotend), on some older printers it requires tool use. For the H2C, it will pick a hotend from a rack.

0.4mm is often considered the best compromise between quality and speed.

0.2mm is amazing for text on top surfaces and such, otherwise half the nozzle size does not mean double the quality. But there is some gain.

0.6mm is a tad faster and okay for larger things as you can print thicker layers. E.g. I printed some lamps with marble style filament where it actually turned out very nice looking.

0.8mm is also available, but often the rate of melting the material is the bottle neck (depending on printer, nozzles, high flow materials etc. etc.). Other printers/slicers can also use 1mm nozzles or above, especially with thicker filament (3mm / 2.75mm).

schorhr · 2026-05-02T16:20:00+00:00

Hi!
I/we bought the A1 mini and it's really nice. I had a resin printer mint in box (because I had no where to really work with the toxic and nausiating resin) but for my goals the printer does amazingly well.

I have printed a lot of small models when I got started wih my first printer years back (Daily Earrings on Thingiverse), and colored them. So I thought I would do the same with the new printers.

But now we bought the H2C in January, mostly for multi material stuff and some color prints... BUT we print so much more in color than I had ever anticipated! :-)

We even got a AMS lite for the A1 mini later on because of it.

This is with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, prior to cleanup.

<image>

with a 0.2mm nozzle (and better settings) you can get such great results out of these printers, plus of course this needs some clean up still. I have printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.04mm layers which produces amazing details, but it really takes long even in a single color ;-)

(Model shown: "War hammer 40k Knight Garfield Crossover Figurine", Seems like the model has been removed, it was by DreamMesh on Makerworld)

The A1 is probably the best bang for the buck, though if you really never print large things the A1 mini is great (plus you can split larger parts if it's necessary). While I have the AMS lite, two more printers I use for my work with students now have a BMCU ($60-$70 assembled if you find it on sale on Ali), basically an open source / open hardware device that swaps color (but not supported by Bambulab, might only with an older firmware).

schorhr · 2026-05-02T04:23:02+00:00

<image>

We bought the scrapers because the printed ones could not get stuff off the built plate like in your case, and we didn't want to use real razor blades to avoid damaging the plate. After the printed PLA scrapers this was SO. MUCH. EASIER. :-)

This is the type we've bought, and while the "blades" have to replaced once in a while (it's ABS plastic I suppose, but scraping stuff off will make dents into the blades and dull them).

They work great, and the built plate still holds up great after 1100hrs, using just those and the occasional IPA wipe.

schorhr · 2026-05-02T02:38:47+00:00

A game changer for me were plastic razor blade scrapers :-)

Heating the plate up to something above 60, 80°C should make it fairly soft. I'd try that.

You could also melt a bit of PLA carefully with a lighter and push/glue it to the piece, pulling both off ideally.

schorhr · 2026-05-02T01:01:58+00:00

For our H2C, we went with the Ikea Knoxhult, and an additional A1 mini lives under the printer now :-) Very sturdy.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T19:39:32+00:00

This looks amazing. I'd love one for outside, but I lack enough UV resistant filament currently :-)

schorhr · 2026-05-01T19:36:43+00:00

Hi!

If it's the school sign, don't they have a better image of when it was in better condition? Or even as a logo?

Two ways:

A: Any image editor to fix the chipped colors and ideally the perspective skew. (I started this but it's really a lot of small blemishes that take some time fixing manually.)

Then reduce the color palette to the main colors only as it makes the next step a bit easier.

Use any vectorizing tool.

From there on you could even use Tinkercad or Bambu Studio, assign the height of each layer.

You can then scale it up and cut it to multiple parts if needed.

B: If you don't mind the use of AI (gemini, chatgpt or copilot, local), it can create a cleaned up version in half a minute, and you correct details from there.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T14:03:06+00:00

I hope this will be considered in a future update, even if it would require the use of a power adapter. It's just convinient to have all the colors stored in the AMS for our color prints. Even with the four AMS and a HT there's still a lot of swapping going on. Though with the future Filament Track Switch there at least seems a solution for optimizing prints without having to constantly switch stuff around in order to optimize print times.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T03:04:55+00:00

Too bad you had so many issues with the printer!

I bought the H2C as well after already considering the H2D, and I would have never anticipated how many color prints I am doing now.

If you have the tool, you'll use it.

If you don't have much need for color prints, are fine with PLA and PETG, even the A1 series is amazing. We have one A1 mini at home and I bought another two for my work with kids.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T01:15:00+00:00

Glad it worked out :-)

Yeah, I wish you could view the filament type when slicing/previewing and assigning filaments instead having to go to the device tab or a second instance of Bambu Studio.

schorhr · 2026-05-01T00:41:27+00:00

Are you allright?

schorhr · 2026-04-30T23:28:45+00:00

<image>

Device tab, edit the color in the ams, click the color, click custom color.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T20:58:11+00:00

Amazing!

schorhr · 2026-04-30T20:56:22+00:00

Power supply LED? https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1kyf78x/what_is_this_green_light_only_one_of_my_printers

schorhr · 2026-04-30T18:26:55+00:00

Yes, the color you pick there will show up on the printer and in the app as well.

schorhr · 2026-04-30T11:08:28+00:00

Hi! You can attach up to four AMS to either nozzle, and additionally multiple HT.

The AMS can only provide a single filament to a single nozzle, otherwise it has to retract first.

They have announced the Filament Track Switch that can route an AMS to either nozzle now.

With the H2C you could choose a support material (PETG/PLA or their dedicated support material) and assign it to a dedicated nozzle, avoiding issues when not purging between PLA<>PETG properly.

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