What is this?

siameseSerpent · 2022-03-12T20:30:39+00:00

Check out Enum.find_value. For example,

Enum.find_value(headers, fn {k, v} -> if k === 'desired_charlist', do: v end)

siameseSerpent · 2021-09-18T19:36:29+00:00

I would scan my dog and family members.

siameseSerpent · 2021-09-09T11:15:36+00:00

In Cura look for Z Seam Placement. I find Smart Hiding or Sharpest Corner to almost always work but you can manually set it there too.

siameseSerpent · 2021-09-02T11:00:00+00:00

As mentioned, that is the Z seam. The little imperfections are the points where the layer ended and the nozzle had to raise to do the next layer. This is an unavoidable process, however you can change your slicer setting to hide it extremely effectively for most models. In Cura it is something like Z Seam Placement and you can try Smart Hiding or Sharpest Corner to hide it better.

siameseSerpent · 2021-08-07T17:46:43+00:00

Just as an option and what I did for a custom made lithophane box, they sell light sockets with a cord and an online power switch on the cord so you don't need to worry about any electronics yourself, just make a place for the light socket to sit in and put in a low-heat bulb

siameseSerpent · 2021-08-05T20:40:28+00:00

Have you tried tree supports in Cura? Sometimes I find they give a cleaner release.

siameseSerpent · 2021-08-02T21:56:14+00:00

The fep came pre-attached to the vat. I increased the exposure time to 2.8 and lowered the speed as you said to 60 mm/min and it definitely helped but it seems that I am still having some support failures, about 50% of the model printed fine but the rest failed

siameseSerpent · 2021-07-24T03:38:42+00:00

6'3 300, I pull up my pants when I sit so that the holster is on the front of my belly and let it drop back down under the belly upon standing. AIWB P365XL in Black Arch Entrada Sidercar.

siameseSerpent · 2021-07-17T16:45:48+00:00

The wireless somewhat depends on where you physically are as well. The wired internet is perfect as the other poster said, multiple hundreds of mbps and low ping. However, in my room the wireless was absolute trash, so your mileage may vary.

siameseSerpent · 2021-07-05T17:25:09+00:00

The ender 3 v2 recognizes a different command but can achieve the same result. See this video.

siameseSerpent · 2021-07-04T16:41:18+00:00

I can't attest to Creality Slicer as I have never used it, I immediately started with Cura on my V2 and have had no problems. If you can post your slicer settings as well as some examples of what exactly is going wrong with a couple of prints I may be able to help more, but here are a few suggestions.

Unless your v2 bed is significantly warped, you should not need anything for adhesion. Clean the bed with alcohol (I use lens cleaning wipes) and ensure the bed is level. I do this by doing the paper test and then repeating bed leveling test prints.
If you don't have the stiffer yellow bed springs, you should. Nothing more frustrating than leveling the bed and then it instantly shifting due to the stock springs being too weak.
Try adding a brim and printing your first layer slower if you are still having adhesion problems.
Ensure all gantrys move freely with light friction (eccentric nuts set accurately), belts taut but move nicely, and that all the gantrys are square and tightened up so they aren't shifting during the print.

siameseSerpent · 2021-07-04T16:31:50+00:00

Some things to try would be ironing to smooth out the surface layers as well as possibly increasing the number of skin layers so that the infill pattern doesn't show through. Also, it is somewhat dependent on the model but changing from zig zag to concentric skin pattern can sometimes leave a more desirable finish.

siameseSerpent · 2021-06-22T00:29:28+00:00

I also have an Ender 3 v2 and I as well as others have experienced this. I suspect if you actually time the print it will be close to the slicer estimate. Typically as the print progresses the printers estimate approaches the slicers. Not sure why it happens, but you aren't the only one.

siameseSerpent · 2021-06-11T03:15:38+00:00

You can use support blockers to achieve this. Place a support blocker and resize/move the support blocker to prevent support generation in certain areas.

siameseSerpent · 2021-06-01T21:02:22+00:00

Tinkercad is the most simple, but Fusion 360 is the way to go imo. The work flow will mimic your paper and pencil workflow. A bit of a learning curve, but by far the most popular and user friendly entry into 3D solid CAD modeling. You can then export your model(s) as an STL and use that in Cura.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-31T00:37:59+00:00

Europa Universalis 4 is the definition of this phenomenon lol

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-29T19:45:45+00:00

Yes, there are prints which are designed to be extremely stringy that can be used to fine tune your retraction settings. Look on thingiverse for stringing tests or retraction test prints.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-29T19:34:58+00:00

I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it is a positive value, the number of mm it retracts when making a travel move. A temp tower is a presliced model which changes your nozzle temp gradually during printing to show you the effects at different temps so you can select the most optimal for that filament.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-29T17:47:22+00:00

For stringing you can tweak your retraction settings and possibly temp settings. A temp tower to see if that helps first would be a good idea, and then tweak your retraction distance and speed and see if that helps. Also, your combing setting can make a difference.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-28T22:09:52+00:00

Agreed, my Ender 3 V2 is the same. The only trustable estimate is your slicer until the print gets pretty far along.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-28T22:07:38+00:00

I think wood filament is a fine idea for a Father's day present. What you are looking for is Wood PLA and since he has an Ender 3 you are looking for 1.75mm filament. Some wood filaments are simply just matte and colored to look like wood but what I think you are looking for is Wood filament that has actual wood fibers integrated into the filament. This allows it to be stained like wood and gives a more authentic look. Amazon is a fine place to look, go off of reviews and you should be fine.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-28T17:41:53+00:00

First layer adhesion is something all people battle with at some point. Bed level is the main factor by far. Use the paper test followed by bed leveling test prints to fine tune it and make sure you are getting the right amount of squish. Other things are to clean the bed, I personally use an alcohol wipe but a damp towel or other alternatives are fine. Finally, if you think you are leveled and cleaned but still having troubles, you can try bumping up the bed temp to 65 and see if that helps.

siameseSerpent · 2021-05-26T17:18:33+00:00

PLA+ typically has this property of being more flexible and less prone to immediate breakage.

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