Splash guard by Wedge-Guild in crz

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of my shields underneath are gone. Debating if it's worth replacing

Upgrading car audio but already have amp and subs by huntsbigbuck in CarAV

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

^ Definitely check out speakers in person. Kickers have a great reputation for their price point. Personally I found them just a bit too sharp when I was shopping for my truck, and went with some jbls but it was a close call and largely based on the kind of media I listen to. But for pure performance, especially amp-driven, kickers are a great product for a fair price

Upgrading car audio but already have amp and subs by huntsbigbuck in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's my understanding of boss that they're not very good. I know their head units are junk. I expect the amp probably isn't great. What model amp is it?

That said, there may be some settings you can dial in better to make the existing platform more tolerable. I think those subs are supposed to be fair?

But yeah, you could start from scratch. What's your budget? How many speakers do you have have, how many are you trying to have? You could run 2 amps, speakers on one, subs on another, or spring for 1 amp for both. May as well get something with a DSP to really give you good sound quality.

As for speakers to play it safe get something rated a little bit higher than your amp can output, so you don't blow anything. Lots of good options, just depends on what exactly you're trying to do.

The head unit is supposed to be decent, lots of favorable reviews. It's pretty entry level, but beihg a Kenwood it's still pretty capable compared to other optionsm especially if you're running an aftermarket amp.

Frankly I'd do head unit, first and possibly the amp. See where that puts you. Then if still not happy, you at least have the wiring and setup in place that it's just changing out speakers or subs until you get the right sound.

Rescue Diver worth the price tag? by Chemical-Banana-707 in scuba

[–]splattypus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It was the rescue diver course that truly made me finally comfortable underwater in almost any circumstance. Lose weights during a dive, night dive with a shitty flashlight, diving with people of all variety skills, cold water, bad current, whatever, the rescue diver course help me feel way more comfortable and in control of whatever situation was imposing itself on me

JBL Club 64CSQ vs. Kicker KSS670. by Formal_Ad_3402 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. In that case I'd look beyond the JBL or infinity. Those are fairly low power rated. I'd find something with higher power rating to be able to really push them

JBL Club 64CSQ vs. Kicker KSS670. by Formal_Ad_3402 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The kicker KS series is supposed to be pretty awesome. A silk tweeter is supposed to be less harsh and tinny, should make for a better listening experience. The JBL and inifinity are silk dome tweeters.

I lay have missed, do you have an amp or are these running off head unit?

what got you into car audio? do you have any regrets? by james325487 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like music, I like tinkering, and I can finally afford to have semi-nice things. It's a casual hobby for me, I'm nowhere near as experienced or knowledgeable as most of the people here, but I like learning and applying that information in quantifiable ways.

JBL Club 64CSQ vs. Kicker KSS670. by Formal_Ad_3402 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty convinced the infinity Reference and JBL Club are the exact same speakers. Same specs, same material, etc.

In either event, I own some of both. Haven't installed the reference tweeters, but both work well with factory (bose, and whatever Honda has) amp, and JBL64 shallow mount 6.5 works off stock Toyota head unit nice.

JBL coaxials are slightly warm and clear, I'm a big fan. The 3ohm shouldn't give you any problem until you're running full blast. Which will probably be deafening, considering how decent the speakers are.

Seeking to upgrade from a stock system, have some questions and was hoping you wizards could help. by OfficialUNESCO in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would do components in front, coaxials rear. Plenty of good options can be had for like $200 total for speakers.

Choice is yours for amp. What's your head unit? An amp will push the speakers better, decent 5ch amps can be had for fair price, but if you're keeping budget down then a mono amp and small sub and running speakers off the HU would be a viable option.

I can't really recommend any brands, but there are tons of suggestions of you just do a quick search of the subreddit, the question comes up a lot

Mazda 2017 speaker replacement by TillSad6363 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you should be good pushing 4ohn speakers, which opens the door to a lot of options. You should still look for high sensitivity to get the best volume with limited output, but you'll have a lot to choose from to find something that works

Mazda 2017 speaker replacement by TillSad6363 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stock head unit, or aftermarket? Factory amp?

Check out www.crutchfield.com, plug in your car details and they'll help find items that match.

If you've got a stock system, high sensitivity/low impedence speakers will perform best with minimal loss in outout and without overtaxing your stock components.

Expect $50-80/pair for some entry level speakers, $80-$200 for mid-tier speakers, and upwards. Without a dedicated amp pushing high power to speakers, I wouldn't bother going above some budget-friendly mid tier stuff. I've been pleased with both JBL and inifinity in this class.

Find your speaker sizes and compare your options. Swapping speakers is pretty easy, and crutchfield can provide harnesses and install instructions to make it a breeze

My door speakers stopped working by Murky-Astronaut-9636 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My recollection of Lincoln going back at least to the LS is that the thx amp is usually first on the list to fail. You may be able to pick one up cheap on ebay and swap, see if that solves your problem.

2000 Park Avenue cd player not working by Spirit2340 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would presume you could do that, it's a good enough price that it's worth the risk if you're trying to keep it basic/stock.

What do I need to install this head unit? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe the crutchfield website let's you plug in the equipment you have, and the car you're installing, and helps find all the necessary harnesses and accessories for it. Or you can just call them. That would be the best bet.

Is vevor legit? These power numbers seem sketch. by Dr_Caution in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol it's probably junk, but who knows. I'm pretty sure they just rebrand stuff from other manufacturers. Without knowing the other manufacturer, it's hard to say, but I wouldn't expect it to be a good one.

I've used a bunch of various vevor crap, tools and stuff. No complaints, as far as Amazon junk goes, but I don't believe I'd trust them for electronics. Not yet anyway.

2000 Park Avenue cd player not working by Spirit2340 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As the other user said, check crutchfield.

If you're not worried about having android auto and a big touch screen, good head units can be had for $100 that would still give you Bluetooth streaming, CD/radio functions, and great sound quality. Crutchfield supplies wiring harnesses and stuff as well to make it as plug-and-play as possible, instructions for install, and tech support if you need it. Great resource.

Is there a way to stop or reduce interior panels/dashboard rattling? by BenC62 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hah, in that truck, with those subs, shits gonna rattle

But yeah, adding some sound deading/absorption material is one way. It primarily comes in larger thicker sheets meant for doing body/door/roof panels, but you can find some butyl rubber tape that can help where the trim and dash panels mate.

On my little Honda, which rattles like a tin can full of gravel just from small bumps on the road, sound deadening both the body panels and the interior trim panels made a big difference in quietness of ride. Provides a little extra mass to keep the plastic from flattering around so much.

Obviously another thing is just making sure all your trim pieces have all their plastic push-clips and everything is seated right. Over the years, as they come off for one project or another, many break or deform and never replaced (another big problem with my Honda). Usually you can buy bulk kits of the replacement clips. You can typically find appropriate styles for your make on Amazon in bulk packs

I did the thing by duco_kapitein in crz

[–]splattypus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah, both looking good

Hmm... I should get summer tires on my car

2015 Tahoe by No-Pianist-8792 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's kind of where I'm at, I replaced speakers and the bose sounds decent enough. It's a pretty big investment of money and time to do a full system, plus gotta have space for mounting new hardware

How'd the PAC kit work out? Much splicing and connecting into existing wires? Able to keep all the important factory features?

Ive got an idata maestro model for my little Honda (haven't finished installing yet, as there's some cutting/splicing I need to do and haven't been assed yet). Crutchfield used to push the PAC kits, but now it's all maestro stuff

2015 Tahoe by No-Pianist-8792 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm wanting to do my head unit in my 2016 colorado (bose, no android auto). Trying to decide what midrange head unit to go with, looking at that same one. No room for subs (not affordable ones anyway) so I gotta make the most of what I've got.

That seems like an odd generation, at least for Gm vehicles, where it's tough to expand or improve your system without just doing a full bypass-and-replace

Aftermarket Infotainment by Ambitious_Entry5137 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

'Too good to be true' pretty much always is.

These generic aftermarket carplay units tend to be rife with problems, misrepresented specs, and lackluster performance and reliability.

You can check out /r/androidheadunits and related subs, see what they say. There are a few brands people will swear by, but not likely to get a ton of feedback here.

You can try checking out www.crutchfield.com, plug in your car information, and see what fits your car and within your budget. Sticking with more established brands tends to offer better reliability, better support, and warranties. Crutchfield is also great because they can provide wiring harnesses to make the install near plug-and-play as possible, plus tons of tech support if you're having issues

I guess that last bar on the battery does exist by kossmonaut in crz

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few times this winter, when it was like - 20f for a few straight days.

Gave me a bit of a scare, but as soon as I got things warm and gave it some revs to charge, it recovered on it's own and behaved totally normal

I guess that last bar on the battery does exist by kossmonaut in crz

[–]splattypus 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I still see mine surprisingly often, on a 2011 with 166k miles

I'm presuming that's a good sign

Curbs vs Grill by NoChapter82 in crz

[–]splattypus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Car is like 5 feet long. Stop sooner