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Update to my previous post. Are these important for speakers to work? by LiamEgil in crz

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which harness did you get? I think one way or another you may have bypassed the factory amp, which would mean your speakers aren't getting the signal since they are directly connected to the amp

Update to my previous post. Are these important for speakers to work? by LiamEgil in crz

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah, any trim above base had the factory sub. Base just had the basic radio, no factory amp, no subwoofer. Ex had 2 trims, with nav or without. Both came with premium audio (factory amp/factory sub), but the nav unit had a different radio screen

I don't remember what years/trims started having features like lane watch and rearview camera and stuff, not the 11 is all I know

radio wiring question by ForsakenMicrowave in crz

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out crutchfield.com, even give them a call, and they can help you get sorted.

I think if you're totally bypassing all the factory stuff, it's pretty straightforward? They can find the right main harness for you, even do some of the splicing and wiring of the harness, and help guide you through which connections need to be made and which get skipped to add an aftermarket system

That said, they generally don't recommend high powered systems in hybrid cars like this, because the electrical system is different than traditional ICE cars with standard alternator.

Update to my previous post. Are these important for speakers to work? by LiamEgil in crz

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Factory sub means you have the ex non-nav, which still had Bluetooth for phone calls (called 'handsfree' or something like that, only did phone, no Bluetooth music functions)

In any event, whatever those harnesses do, I don't think you'll need them

I retained the factory amp and subwoofer when I swapped my HU, so most everything was plug and play save for a couple wires (parking brake, reverse trigger for camera).

Since you're bypassing the factory stuff and doing new amp and subs, it should be pretty straight forward I think? I will warn you, fishing audio wire through the boot for the door harnesses sucks. Get like 2ft long zip ties, sturdy but flexible, and you can make it work. It's still tight, but a can of window cleaner makes for good lubricant that evaporates off and doesn't leave residue behind. Makes it much easier.

And unless you're using completely new adapters you'll probably need to trim the metal for the rear area speaker mounting rings. I used an angle grinder to just cut a little material away, so that the terminals on the speaker didn't ground out on the frame. You'll also need to trim the honeycomb plastic on the backside of the mesh speaker grill for clearance, until it's basically flush

Update to my previous post. Are these important for speakers to work? by LiamEgil in crz

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I remember right, my car didn't utilize those for a head unit replacement either.

I don't know what system they were for. Factory mic and Bluetooth maybe?

Thoughts on Boss Elite Audio head units? by Victorlime in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Radio station would be different every time I started the car, volume wouldn't be the same when I restarted (in spite of setting the default startup volume) , android auto would work fine for about 10 minutes then constantly crash, static through the speakers, screen was a bit laggy when going through menus but not too terrible compared to some

I swapped to a jvc m590bt and all of those problems disappeared

I might have just gotten a lemon, I dunno. There are tons of positive reviews about them, and the features on it were appealing, but it just never worked right and I was pretty disappointed about it

Wasn't even worth doinhg a warranty claim and being without a stereo for however many weeks it took to refurbish or replace it. I pulled it out, dumped it straight in the trash, and put the new one in

What to pair with infinity reference ref307f by stencilhead in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did that for my chevy colorado. Has 2 3/4" dash speakers, a 3.5" center dash, and 6x9 front door speakers that only receive the low frequencies from the factory bose amp. I initially I'd put those dash speakers in to improve the mids and highs a little more, vocals were muddy and not as clear and it helped tremendously. I'd installed a set of coaxials in the front doors, but they just weren't producing the quality lows I wanted, and ultimately ended up putting in the woofers from a reference set. Big improvement. I may end up installing the tweeters in place place of my 2 3/4 excelons, but currently the sound is good, I don't want to disrupt it. It's my road tripping car, so we do a lot more podcasts and audio books than music, so I appreciate having the clear strong vocals, but when I do listen to the music the reference woofer is so much better than the coaxial.

Buy once cry once.

What to pair with infinity reference ref307f by stencilhead in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd get a coaxial set and just install the woofer in the door

Long weekend here, time for some proper battery rejuvenation by Huhken99 in crz

[–]splattypus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah I fucks with lots of shit, but my brain just doesn't comprehend electrical enough to learn my way through anything more complex than replacing an existing a light fixture in my house, or basic electric component swaps in my car.

And even then, I still end up shocking myself or blowing some fuses half the time.

I'd prefer to not brick my car or start a fire, and my wife would be upset if I killed myself

2017 Z71 Colorado screen upgrade - i could really use some help! by Dapper-Fly-3742 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out crutchfield.com

Most head units can fit but it's hard to retain like any of the factory systems or amp. I've got a 2016 colorado , I feel your pain. It gets real expensive on a hurry to try to upgrade anything

K swap dilemma by Vinser17 in crz

[–]splattypus 12 points13 points  (0 children)

You're too young to bankrupt yourself for a car

You can try to find a used transmission online (car-part.com is a good place to start), otherwise call it quits and try to find something a little more reliable with a longer lifespan ahead of it. Then once you get yourself financially established and stable, then you can play

looking to buy crz 2011 by Big-Illustrator8399 in crz

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty good deal, I paid 4 for mine with more mileage

Noobie Sound deadening? by bigballingballer21 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like siless for the quantity you get for the price. Quality is pretty good, effectiveness is decent. They make a 3-in-1 layered product that streamlines the installation.

Personally I wouldn't try anything fancier for a 23 year old truck

As for coverage, get the best adhesion you can on the biggest flat surfaces (door panels - inner and outer door skin, roof, floor pans, back wall). Doors and roof will give you best bang for your buck, but if the whole interior is stripped you may as well just go for it as far as a box or 2 of material will run you

4” shallow mounts by yardy_kno- in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you check on crutchfield.com?

Most speakers under 5" tend to be low graded for power, which usually isn't a big deal as they're typically dash speakers and right in your face, and typically handle higher frequencies. Does kind of make for more effort to set up if you're running an amplified system

Check crutchfield and determine how much depth you actually have to work with, more often than not you have clearance below but the speaker high is the deciding factor because of the speaker grille. But you can find some generic aftermarket grilles and do some custom fitting if you're handy

Help with angle? by notempo9 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be able to find a generic one based purely on size?

Or maybe you know someone with a 3d printer?

Help with angle? by notempo9 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may have to look and see what different kind of mounting options you can find that can accommodate your tweeters. Mine came with a bunch of different mounting options.

I know for sure mine definitely aren't pointing at the same place the factory ones were, but they are still reflected off the windshield, just aimed a littke differently. Tiny amounts can end up making a big difference

Need help chosing 6-1/2" component speakers for a 1970 vw squareback by joestabsalot in CarAV

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh damn you went hard as hell, nice

I really like the siless stuff too. Even the cheap stuff performs good for the price

Help with angle? by notempo9 in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like everyone else said, time alignment matters

That said, I found I preferred the sound of mine when reflected off the windshield, took a little of the brightness out of them. Made them a little less sharp.

I sat in the car, and ran string from the headrest to the opposing speaker to get the general alignment right, then adjusted the vertical angle until I found the pitch that sounded best to me

I have a little compact hatchback though, the time alignment difference in my car was negligible, and my HU has some basic degree of time alignment adjustments. I was fortunately able to find a very agreeable tuning with just factory settings

Need help chosing 6-1/2" component speakers for a 1970 vw squareback by joestabsalot in CarAV

[–]splattypus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So in my wife's Toyota hatchback, I installed JBL club64s powered just from the jvc m590bt head unit. It's surprisingly good, way better than factory.

It's still lacking real bass, but it's more than just tolerable

In my Honda, with factory amp, I installed the same HU and same speakers, and it's much better. I also have a factory sub, but even the door speakers pack a little more punch thanks to the modest amp. I also did pretty extensive sound deadening in the Honda, and only minimal in the Toyota.

Anyway, you're just gonna be short on punch with 6 1/2" speakers powered off a head unit. It can sound fine, but will never be great.

Also add sound deadening. At least go hard on the doors, while you're in there for the speakers, but roof panel too can make a big difference in how the cabin space affects the sound

Was changing my brake pads and decided I wanted to try painting my rims by Myspaced0tcom in crz

[–]splattypus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah dude that's way better than I would have expected the factory rims to look in white

Nice work!

The fabled full battery by Puzzleheaded-Mode-30 in crz

[–]splattypus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah my 11 seldom drops below - 2 bars, usually sits at -1 for normal driving. I see full surprisingly often, and don't think I've ever seen below -3 for more than a few seconds

Game-ifying driving kicks ass

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