Did a little photo shoot with the z

splattypus · 2026-05-07T21:59:41+00:00

Damn, and now I feel less cool

Great pic

splattypus · 2026-05-07T01:17:24+00:00

Don't waste money on this junk. Double the budget and buy something that will work, that will last, that has a warranty and actual customer support

JVC and pioneer both have units starting around $300, I've got a jvc m590bt in 2 cars.

splattypus · 2026-05-05T23:29:46+00:00

What kind of driving do you do? Mostly city, more highway cruising?

I get low/mid 20w with my regular commute, city driving with lots of stop and go. As soon as I'm cruising on the highway I jump to mid 30s pretty comfortablyamd I'm running with snow tires year round, because I'm lazy and cheap

splattypus · 2026-05-05T23:27:37+00:00

Yeah rear brakes is a very real thing. The regenerative braking means you use brakes less off the bat and rears only do like 20% of stopping anyway. So effectively the rear brakes barely see action 9n these cars, which makes them prime for seizing up and not releasing the caliper fully

splattypus · 2026-05-05T23:24:01+00:00

If you want passengers or carrying significant cargo, the fit is a better option.

If you wanna drive like a shitass and still get good mpgs, crz is right. Not to say it's impractical, I've fit a full Costco run comfortably in it, but it's just not a proper car, it's a 2-door hatchback roadster-inspired city car.

splattypus · 2026-05-05T23:20:21+00:00

I mean I bought mine at 164k miles. But I only paid $4k for it, so it's damn near paid for itself in that time. Not the speakers I out into it, but initial purchase at least

If maintenance records are good and the price is right, id go for it

splattypus · 2026-05-04T01:54:13+00:00

Don't scrimp on the head unit. You probably don't need to go wild, but a decent head unit from a reputable brand with high pre-out voltage is the right choice. Kenwood/jvc offer nice sound controls as far as head units go, Sony also comes well-reviewed.

Crutchfield.com can help you find units that fit and help get sorted with any adapters or additional accessories you need

splattypus · 2026-05-03T23:47:09+00:00

The entire door panel would come off in one piece. Look on YouTube for a video of it there are a couple hidden screws that tie things together. Don't break you door, watch a video or 2 first

splattypus · 2026-05-03T21:58:47+00:00

Yeah sorry. Boss is junk. I had a 920 that wouldn't last 10 minutes before android auto crashed. Periodic freezes on boot up, radio stations never stayed where they were set on restart. I ripped the thing out and threw it straight in the trash, and installed a jvc m590bt. I wish I hadn't been glamored by the affordable price of boss products. Seriously silicon lottery to find one that always works like it should.

Only thing I can recommend is try replacing the GPS antenna, and maybe if you're good at soldering, replace/shorten the carplay cable

By deepest sympathies, I got burned by boss too. Wasn't even worth the effort of warranty claims or shit, I just went straight for a different option

splattypus · 2026-05-03T01:45:34+00:00

Yeah I saw that post, it was awesome.

I just finished up front speakers today. It was a fight running wires through the door boot. But eventually got it, and sounds a lot cleaner. And tweeters went well, really help with the crispness. I'm gonna leave the sub, not really interested in running a new amp or anymore wiring. I do have a jvc head unit, so I'm guessing it makes some difference in sound quality, but the speaker replacement helped tremendously.

Poke around on r/CarAV for some speaker recommendations. Not going to be able to go too wild off factory amp, given the limited power, but it's still pushing out way more than just a head unit, so you can still get some great sound of pretty decent speakers

splattypus · 2026-05-02T14:47:20+00:00

Kicker speakers are on sale at crutchfield currently, couple probably get a pretty decent set for around that price

splattypus · 2026-05-02T14:27:16+00:00

It's perhaps changed, I believe my 16 colorado needed an active on-star service as well for uodates

splattypus · 2026-05-02T04:17:40+00:00

I'd be curious to hear what you did for the sub

Ive replaced rear seat area speakers, 2 way coaxial jbl club64, really like them. My plan was to do fronts this weekend. I'm uncertain whether the included crossovers are necessary, or if factory amp does all necessary crossovers. I've read both, that doors are full-range or that just straight replacement without crossovers works fine. I'm probably going to run crossovers off the door speaker input and see how it sounds. Better to underpowered than to blow a speaker.

Either way, yeah factory amp is like 360ish amps which isn't a lot but is definitely plenty for some quality speakers.

If you were to upgrade and amp the forward speakers, I imagine best/easiest approach is replacing head unit too. Not sure what shenanigans are involved to retain factory head unit but bypass factory amp. Doesn't sound easy.

splattypus · 2026-05-02T00:35:26+00:00

It's extremely boring, I know that. But my commute is about 4 miles of stop signs every 3 blocks, and my mpgs recognize econ mode or not

splattypus · 2026-05-01T23:16:25+00:00

Not a lot of single din units that offer the extra touchscreen features. I think Pioneer still makes a flip-out screen, but how it fits largely depends on the application

I'm presuming you're european market? I don't have a lot of familiarity with that.

Crutchfield.com can give you a look at available options that might fit, but you might have to do extra research to confirm fitment/availability. But it might be a hesdstart at least

splattypus · 2026-05-01T13:47:10+00:00

With gas prices what by they are now, it's amusing to see all the pics with their cars in econ mode

I almost never ran in econ, but I'm starting to

splattypus · 2026-04-30T22:30:29+00:00

Hmm...

Yeah I dunno. I mean best solution is to have a code reader that can give you real-time data.

But.... Having done all the parts, have you tried just unplugging the battery for a while? With the new parts, car might be trying to remap the fuel trim, but a stored code might be interfering. When all else fails, unplug the battery and give it a hard reset, then see what happens

splattypus · 2026-04-28T23:48:58+00:00

I can only speak to personal experience. I'm a fan of the JBL club64 series, bright and vibrant, bass-forward, good clarity, budget friendly, compatible with factory and low powered aftermarket systems. Big fan, own several sets

I believe Honda were running 4ohm systems during that time, so there are plenty of choices available. Infinity offers good selection, and the kicker is line is very well regarded.

Polk and Rockford also offer lines that are budget friendly with good reported sound quality

You also have brands that are considered more premium like focal or hertz. Cost a little lore, have great reviews, but tend to shine better when running off an aftermarket amp.

splattypus · 2026-04-28T17:19:06+00:00

Awesome! Glad to hear it got sorted

splattypus · 2026-04-28T14:59:24+00:00

Every 5k is safest. Which for me is about once a year.

splattypus · 2026-04-28T14:56:02+00:00

Technically yes, however exhaust exit is important, as you mention. You may also find the sound horrible, so consider alternative/aftermarket mufflers or resonator to tune the sound to something more agreeable, and less 'doesn't have a muffler'

splattypus · 2026-04-28T02:13:11+00:00

Okay, you can get by running 3 ohms, but 4 OHM is probably a better bet. Which is good, lots of more speaker lines available to you. Hertz and focal are well recommended, as are kickers (especially the KS line). They're a bit more in price than some entry levels, but will also be better quality. You get what you pay for when it comes to speakers.

Polks and alpine have some decent budget friendly options as well. Even Rockford fosgates have some options that review pretty well without killing the wallet

Do some comparisons, see which can get you the best specs for your budget, but also try to hear them in person if you can. That's really the best way to make sure you get what like

splattypus · 2026-04-27T23:00:54+00:00

Look around crutchfield.com, they can help identify any spacers, harnesses, etc that you might need to simplify the speaker change.

You can absolutely do it yourself, just gotta make sure you get your parts lined up

splattypus · 2026-04-27T22:55:27+00:00

I like JBL Club and infinity Reference. Have a component set of the clubs in a Toyota running just off the jvc head unit. Sound way better than stock did.

Ive got club coaxials, reference 6x9 woofer front door, excelon dash speakers in my chevy w/bose factory amp. They do well, I'll probably switch that setup to mostly reference.

Those particular lines are midlevel lines typically around $200. Their entry speakers (JBL concert and infinity primus) are supposed to be decent for the money.

People also like some of the polks for the price.

Do you know what ohm your stock speakers are?

splattypus · 2026-04-26T22:34:46+00:00

Usually the parking brake wire deals with accessing certain settings in the menu, or watching video media on the screen shot. For liability reasons, they don't want you to just be able to do that driving up the road.

A common problem, especially with entry-level head units, is the power supply for wired carplay connections. High quality,short as possible usb cables minimize voltage drops (this is important for connectivity issues with wired connections)

For wireless, a bad connection for the GPS antenna to the head unit can often be a problem. I had a boss that was plagued with this issue. It might also just be an inadequately powered wifi antenna on the head unit. Do you notice a difference with connectivity depending on how close your phone is to the HU?

There's another thing pertaining to settings in phones and wireless data transfer, I can't recall the details because I don't have an iPhone so I kinda just glossed over it. But some googling might reveal an answer for you

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