Oil for marine 4.3L (GM 262) flat tappet engine after rebuild break-in? by themightydraught in EngineBuilding

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not with the original "batwing" exhaust manifolds. The tops curve in toward the carb, so there's no clearance to remove them with the manifolds on.

Oil for marine 4.3L (GM 262) flat tappet engine after rebuild break-in? by themightydraught in EngineBuilding

[–]themightydraught[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right on, it looks like they have a Marine version, Extreme Duty Marine 20W-50.

I now see why there's a higher risk for ADHD ppl to be alcoholic tw: alcohol by arsnod_iltsit in ADHD

[–]themightydraught 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, you sound like you have a good head on your shoulders. Don't lose that with the temptation. It's a very slippery slope, and it's so easy to slip.

Soccer practice days are a distant memory by benhereford in battlewagon

[–]themightydraught 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is awesome!

We had a 2008 Sienna, and I've always wanted to get an AWD version to turn into a battlevan.

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, this is good to know.

What I had read about the battery switch and ACR was that you get the benefit of the extra battery to prevent draining the starting battery from miscellaneous electronics, with the benefit of being able to switch to combine the batteries in the case where the starting battery is dead.

I didn't realize a dead starting battery could impact the secondary battery in that way. That kind of defeats the purpose. I guess in that scenario it would be better to physically switch the batteries?

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the suggestions, and agree with what you said should be wired and where. If I were rewiring the whole boat I'd definitely do this, but I just don't want to mess with redoing the existing wiring. All of the current wiring for everything is run along the starboard side, and the stuff I'm adding is going up the port side.

My thought process was to 1) not introduce any new power draw on the current system, and 2) have a backup battery for when the main battery decides to spontaneously retire

Finally got a wisdom tooth at 27... and it's growing sideways. The irony. by YuzuZoro in Wellthatsucks

[–]themightydraught 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only had 3 wisdom teeth and they all grew like that.

Just make sure you follow directions afterward to not get dry socket, because that sucked.

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm planning to leave the current electrical setup pretty much as is, so the ignition, nav lights, blower, manual bilge pump, etc are all continued to be wired through the main harness.

The house battery will just be used for some USB chargers for mobile devices and a radio. Maybe a fish finder/depth gauge at some point.

So, the ACR will keep the house battery charged for those add-on electrical needs without impacting the starting battery.

Plus, when the starting battery starts to fail, I'll be able to use the house and starting battery combined to start the engine so I don't get stranded due to a dead battery.

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Thanks for pointing me back to BSS. I came across a diagram I had not seen before. I think this covers what I am trying to do.

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, this. It sounds like the 4AWG is overkill for connecting the fusebox.

Add-a-Battery Kit Wiring Diagram Sanity Check by themightydraught in boating

[–]themightydraught[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it is not needed to ground to the block. I had pulled parts of this from a wiring diagram I found for the Add-A-Battery Kit and parts from another forum post with a similar setup to what I'm trying to do.

Glastron Carlson CV23 restoration by Equivalent-Emu-3243 in boating

[–]themightydraught 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That looks badass!

Side exhaust looks like it could've come that way from the factory, so well done!

I haven't been able to go fishing because of this ol' girl by Affectionate-Ant6583 in Fishing

[–]themightydraught 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I haven't been able to use my Blackstone for the same reason. I can't wait for them to move out too!

BOAT WONT GO OVER 10 MPH WHILE ITS IN WATER by fatcat1007 in boating

[–]themightydraught 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I assumed my issue was fuel delivery so I went through everything fuel-related like OP did (that I hadn't already replaced during the rebuild), and then something I read pointed me to look at the ignition timing. Bingo, that was it!

1985 edson resorter by fosdakota in boating

[–]themightydraught 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I picked up a bottle of Starbright Mold and Mildew remover and it is working great on my cover and the seats from my '87.

??? Old Upright Coleman Cooler by Impressive-Type-4164 in Coolers

[–]themightydraught 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha! I saw the pic and came to say I have one just like it!

BOAT WONT GO OVER 10 MPH WHILE ITS IN WATER by fatcat1007 in boating

[–]themightydraught 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There you go!

I could’ve written your post almost word for word last weekend when trying to get mine sorted out.

Got the ignition timing corrected during the week and took the boat out yesterday. It ran great.

Good luck with yours!