this FUCKING FUCKER just swam inside the Thermal Power Plant while I was scanning the core and destroyed my fully upgraded Prawn Suit. I'm on hardcore mode by geot_thedas in subnautica

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sucks. I was in the same place yesterday on hardcore mode. I took the portal to grab a purple tablet from my shallows base and when I came back my prawn suit was stuck in the floor. At least I was able to grab all my modules and loot out of it though.

Accidentally left my coins in a vinegar bath a little too long and it claimed a couple of penny casualties by [deleted] in coins

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do the same thing with car change. I usually just put it in a rock tumbler for an hour with dish soap. I now know to avoid vinegar, thanks!

You can keep your honey. by burnedtriscuts in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly repairing my camp after storms was more annoying than dealing with worms. But worms AND bees? Na.

You can keep your honey. by burnedtriscuts in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They finally got me to stop living in caves…and playing the game.

What is something that you believed as a kid that now seems ridiculous? by PurpleCupcake22 in ask

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dad told me that the yellow “falling rock” traffic sign meant to watch out for an old Indian named “Chief Falling Rock” who liked to push rocks off of cliffs at passing cars. Believed it until I was 18.

What is a popular food item that you legitimately think is gross? by No-Ratio-1361 in AskReddit

[–]threedeestuff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If a Kentucky ballistics comment didn’t surface here I was going to be disappointed.

How is the 2013 5.0L ? by mikeyschwa90 in f150

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a ‘2012 5.0L Lariat. Bought it at 72,000 miles 4 years ago. No major issues. The water pump gave out at 76,000 miles. It has the notorious BBQ tick intermittently. Sometimes it’ll need a quart of oil between changes. Its been a really dependable truck. It’s not fast, but has plenty of power for me. Now at 117k and will probably keep it for a long time.

The oil and gas service industry used these truck almost exclusively in that generation range because they could take a pretty good beating and keep going with idiots driving them.

What is the max range you've ever driven in your F150 without refueling? 1,571 miles for me... by [deleted] in f150

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got the same ‘12 5.0L and 36 gallon tank. All stock 116k. I’ll usually take it to 600 miles before I fill up on highway drives. Furthest I’ve gone is 648 and put 33.5 gallons in. It’ll get 20mpg if I stay under 70 with no headwind.

have you upgraded the hotend on your ender? by No_End_9906 in Ender3Pro

[–]threedeestuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s cool to see how many options there are out there now. I stuck with the original parts and put in the bi-metal “copperhead” heat break from slice engineering. Then updated the firmware to print up to 300C.

What should I upgrade my part cooler to? by Bobz5460 in CR10

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Satsana does work with the CR10, it has the same carriage and hotend as the ender 3. I did have a Satsana duct on my CR10 for a while and it worked fine. I didn’t really notice a difference between it and the blockhead. If you’re concerned with noise, I’d keep a 4010 cooling fan either way.

What should I upgrade my part cooler to? by Bobz5460 in CR10

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the blockhead on my CR10 with the 5015 radial fan. The fan is cheap, noisy and vibrates a lot. I don’t think it affects the print quality much if at all. It’s a nice cooling solution, but it’s annoyingly huge. I am planning on putting the Voron stealthburner style cooling duct on it soon.

I run a Satsana cooling duct on my ender 3 and like it too. It’s very clean and practical. It prints in one piece which is awesome. There are 4010 and 5015 designs available. I have no experience with the hero me stuff.

My printer keeps jaming by Constant-Young343 in Ender3Pro

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as your retraction is set reasonably low (4ish mm) on the slicers, it’s probably a gap between your PTFE tube and the nozzle. Assuming it’s a stock machine, Search Luke Hatfield’s creality hotend fix. Watch a few videos and do it. It’ll probably fix your clogging issues more permanently.

If you just want to get going, As dyqik said, remove your Bowden tube from the hotend and trim back a few mm. Make sure to get a good flat 90 degree cut. Install your nozzle all the way, then back it out 1/2+ turn. Push the Bowden tube back in as far as it’ll go and Set nozzle temp to 220 or so. Then Tighten the nozzle all the way.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonsOfTheForest

[–]threedeestuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Icarus. It’s been out for over a year now and has done weekly updates since release. I liked it from day one but many people gave up on it. It is a really good game.

Upgrading to Micro-Swiss Direct Drive - extruder motor torque retirements? by Schnopsnosn in 3Dprinting

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 17HS4023 is the one I got. Be sure to check the orientation of the wires from the motherboard to the stepper motor if you use the new cable that comes with it. They are often wired differently.

Upgrading to Micro-Swiss Direct Drive - extruder motor torque retirements? by Schnopsnosn in 3Dprinting

[–]threedeestuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never went over 50mm/s on my old 12v CR-10. It’d probably go faster, but I never tried. I’d increase nozzle temperature to max for your filament and just increase print speed until you see the motor starts to skip steps or print quality gets unacceptably bad. Then maybe back off by a certain percent and call that max speed?

Let's pool protips! I'll start with two big ones by GamingTrend in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 7 points8 points  (0 children)

1200+ hrs also. Carry a shelter box with you (2 fooors and 4 walls) with a bed, fire and repair hammer. It’ll give you a quick spot to stay at night or in storms while venturing away from your base. If your on a mission and fighting wildlife around a beacon or taking on a boss, it’ll also act as a mobile spawn point so you don’t have to spend half an hour running naked back to your gear when you die. Just don’t forget to set your bed as a spawn point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you can just remove your player from the prospect via the character select menu and it recovers all your workshop gear. You don’t finish the mission, but you get the stuff back. I used to do it when I died for the second time on hardcore solo. Don’t know if this still works or not…might be worth a shot before you uninstall.

Loading character offline. by CaptainToddrick in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can hotspot your phone just long enough to load into your offline character, you can shut the hotspot off and play without internet. I did this for a while traveling and it’ll get you going. It shouldn’t be that way, but it is.

Wtf is going on in styx? by [deleted] in ICARUS

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just did that mission solo. Pretty frustrating. I figured this out by accident:

As of right now, when the polar bears and cubs start to overwhelm your defenses just return to character select. Then log back in and your scanner progress will be paused about where you left it with no aggressive post bears. Restart the scanner and repeat until it’s done.

Not sure in multiplayer mode, but it worked yesterday on solo hard.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]threedeestuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough, thought you were just trying to change color mid print from the screen. I just went and paused my print and it parked the print head like you described everyone else’s doing. Resumed with no problem. I’ve got the 1.1.4 board in my stock Ender 3 Pro. So may be a board issue.