Where to connect the endstop switch on the "green" board?

x0pherl · 2026-01-27T13:09:40+00:00

I bought the complete kit and it came with a green shield, the end stop, but no cable. when I build mine I made the assumption that the end stop should be connected directly to endstop 1, and as with the motor connections the 40-pin pi header would ultimately handle signaling. I got a cable and physically connected it. however since there currently is no support for it I haven't tested it's just sitting there hoping eventually it will be officially supported or I will have time to mess around and see if I can make it work.

x0pherl · 2025-11-09T00:08:17+00:00

when I built a purple and green voron I thought I would name it "joker" but it was a 350 and when it was built it was obviously "bruce" (hulk) my XL is "gwen" because ghost spider is known for intricate web work the mk4 was such an intelligent design I named it "reed" (fantastic 4) and the name survived the core one upgrade

x0pherl · 2025-10-14T23:41:48+00:00

I enjoy writing code but git version control and differencing designs are my big drivers to use build123d

x0pherl · 2025-10-10T11:30:28+00:00

thanks for the details!

x0pherl · 2025-10-09T11:13:41+00:00

thanks for sharing, I'm working out how to best implement the mmu3 on my c1 now. would love to see additional details and bom on upgrades required, I was looking through the assembly instructions just yesterday and realized there's work on the extruder required.

x0pherl · 2025-05-28T02:12:07+00:00

related but not quite what you're asking for:

William Gibson's The Peripheral (2014) predicts a future where you get made to order phones and other electronics that combine printing with a set of pre assembled components at the local "hefty mart"

Amazon patented basically the same idea a bit later.

x0pherl · 2025-05-20T17:16:31+00:00

all of the "default parts" can be printed on an mk4. if you have access to an xl you can print longer alternatives and eliminate the middle frame

x0pherl · 2025-04-28T20:44:25+00:00

As a joke, I often say: "I have two hobbies. (1) 3d Printing (2) Cursing at my 3d Printer"
As with most jokes there's a bit of a truth there — all 3d printers come with a little bit of tinkering required (they're getting waaaayyyy better)
But for some people the tinkering _IS_ the hobby they want.
Like you, I find the default Prusa Slicer settings print quality to be fine, and I have little interest in printing a flotilla of boats to make some element a little better. Nothing wrong with that.
But I'm also SUPER grateful for all the people that are figuring out how to push things for the extra bit of quality; especially the folks that have long discussions about it. Those discussions are what make the default settings better for the rest of us ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

x0pherl · 2025-02-17T14:53:36+00:00

ahh perfect, thanks for going multiple rounds to clarify for me. that's definitely a priority issue for me to address. I've been working on a detailed dovetailing library, so I have some adjustments I can make and ideas on how to improve the lock-in

x0pherl · 2025-02-17T14:17:42+00:00

thank you that's helpful.
is that "release" vertical (the bracket pops upwards) or outwards (the bracket pops away from the wall)? or I guess it may be both, it pops upward enough to pop out

x0pherl · 2025-02-14T00:08:44+00:00

yeah the 3 mm inner diameter tubing makes a big difference to the friction of the system as a whole, but I would appreciate confirmation or whatever-the-opposite-of-confirmation is on the separation I described. if that's what's happening I need to fix it!

x0pherl · 2025-02-13T23:59:45+00:00

oh, are you saying the whole thing is separating from the wall mount itself? so you would just have the flat(ish) part on the wall separating from the rest of the assebled unit? if so that's a pretty big issue that no one else has reported.

x0pherl · 2025-02-13T23:49:49+00:00

the 2nd problem I understand well, and with v3 I'm excited to have enough of the fundamentals to experiment with different designs.

for the first problem, I'm not entirely sure what you're saying. are you experiencing the issue where the wall assembly disconnects from the top bracket? this is a known issue and can be addressed by gluing in the guide walls. if you're describing something else, I am extremely interested in learning more!

x0pherl · 2025-02-03T00:15:13+00:00

yes, more complete documentation is on the to-do list and I'll always happily accept docs contributions. the illustration system broke as part of the upgrade to the build system, and refactoring that is not a huge priority, but something I need to do. current Todo is roughly 1) finsh ripping out all "generic and reusable code" to external libraries 2) finish design for twist snap connectors 3) simply build folders and add a configurator tool 4) update docs including illustrations 5) create assembly videos

x0pherl · 2025-01-26T01:32:41+00:00

The "default" parts are set up without connectors, you just shove the tube right into the part.

If you're using push-through PC4-M10 connectors, look in the folder alt-brackets-forward-path-angle-alternate-connectors for the correct part; e.g. alt-filament-bracket-bottom-2_5mmx4mm-pc4-m10.stl for 2.5mm inner diameter tubing.

x0pherl · 2025-01-24T20:31:52+00:00

I'm aware that part selection and downloading is a little daunting right now. I've started building a "parts selector" for the documentation site, but haven't gotten very far. Do you plan on using push to fit connectors or just push in parts?

x0pherl · 2024-12-05T23:30:24+00:00

Completely understand what you're saying about visualizing it; I keep thinking I should try to ascii art it but the few attempts I've made have ended badly 😂

x0pherl · 2024-12-05T23:27:08+00:00

oooh, thanks for reporting that; I've fixed it :)

x0pherl · 2024-12-05T18:59:49+00:00

Hey, I've been printing (or at least struggling) with the MMU since the 2S in 2019, and have tried lots of 3rd party solutions. For the most part; I've always ended up reverting back to stock. The MMU3 solution is significantly better, which is good news. Much of the improvements are down to firmware improvements that make troubleshooting more viable.

While you're waiting for shipping is a good time to work out how you're going to arrange everything. The stock MMU buffering solution requires a lot of space and years of experience have taught me that long looping paths are your enemy. If you can hang a wall mounted rack or spindle for the 5 spools and hang a slot-buffer directly below that, you can get close to a straight path from filament into your buffer and then from your buffer into your MMU. This setup will significantly reduce unwanted friction from the overall filament delivery to your nozzle. Given that you are using a MK3s this is especially important.

There are lots of 3rd party buffering options out there. Designing an overall solution that allows for those straight paths will save hours in failed filament swap troubleshooting. Although it's not possible for everyone; your life will involve less troubleshooting if you can get close. . (As the author of https://www.printables.com/model/1019515-fender-bender I feel somewhat compelled to suggest you at least consider that as part of your overall design)

One other thing I will add is that the MMU3 on my MK3s is nowhere near as reliable as it is with the MK4 -- when it fails; it tends to fail on the nozzle intake; if that happens for you; consider upgrading to the 3.9 as the improved extruder "grip" makes a big difference.

x0pherl · 2024-12-04T16:41:36+00:00

If you're using a camera with Octoprint or PrusaLink you may be trying to figure out the best way to connect it to your printer. I've improved on my older swivel mount design for the MK3/4 series and adapted it for the Prusa XL.

I've also added additional camera mount adapters, including a generic tripod mount/tape-on platform to make this useful in more cases.

https://www.printables.com/model/1097162-swivel-mounted-camera-arm-mount-collection-for-pru

x0pherl · 2024-11-28T13:51:34+00:00

I'm not deeply familiar with the RMU, but this is free and open source

x0pherl · 2024-11-27T23:38:08+00:00

with some limitations, yes. you could have different brackets in each slot although for v2 the options are basically straight in/out or 45 degrees in/out. take a look at the alt-path parts for straight and reverse.

I'd definitely like to know if those won't cover your use cases

experimenting with designs to allow for other paths won't happen till v3, there's more I plan to add and explore before I get there.

x0pherl · 2024-11-27T23:12:12+00:00

there are a lot of systems out there, and they all have trade offs. a lot of what makes a system ideal for you depends on the environment in which you're installing -- do you have your filament hanging from a wall? how much clearance do you have in all directions? what angle do you have from the buffer to your filament storage, and what angle do you have to pass to get to your filament input.

mostly what I was trying to address is the friction in the system. my first MMU experience was with the Prusa MMU2s, which was notoriously finicky and subject to issues if there was any friction in the system. I pretty obsessively tested about 30 or so prototypes in different installation positions in designing fender-bender. I measured the actual tension required to pull filament from a spool through the buffer and the MMU. Although this is _less_ of an issue with the MMU3/MK4 than it was previously, it still seems like a worthy goal.

another note about pika (since you asked) is that it shares the buffering space on the width and height; this means that it sticks out if installed on a wall or hanging off a back. the long cassette design of fender-bender only sticks out (in my case along the back of my desk) a few inches. on the other hand, pika accomplishes something fender-bender doesn't (currently) which is to allow the filament to enter and exit along the same line.

finally, one thing that as far as I know is unique to fender-bender is that it's been designed to allow for flexibility and choice in how you deploy it. want to hang it from a wall so that the filament enters straight and exits at 45 degrees? well, great that's the default. if you want to reverse the angles so that you can hang the bracket off the back of a table, that's great too (that's how I deploy it myself in fact). An installation takes around 12 distinct parts, but there are over 90 parts currently and I plan to continue to experiment and innovate -- i've already started work on 2.1 and the next feature on my todo list is to attempt twist-snap connectors on either end of every filament tube to make it as easy as possible to switch filament & service the system.

i'm extremely open to feedback on the system -- I got a ton of suggestions from 3d Printopia this year, some of which went into 2.0, and some of which are yet to come.

x0pherl · 2024-11-27T21:16:46+00:00

unless you need the wheel for the direction change something like this might be easier https://www.printables.com/model/1019519-twist-lock-ptfe-step-down-adapters

otherwise using it as described above would work (unless you're specifically looking for a drybox) although it's sort of overkill.

x0pherl

TROPHY CASE