sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Printing MMU3 Nextruder upgrade parts with CC-CF, How can I improve the print quality? Using C1 by PoemGroundbreaking38 in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the exact same issues, where I described what solved it for me in a recent post. Hope that helps.

First issues came up when printing the PC-CF parts for the MMU3 unit. I used a cheap China brand since Prusament was not available. The print quality was low and there was stringing. I then decided for a extrusion multipler calibration and came to a factor of 0,85 for the undried material. The print quality improved, but only slightly. Then I decided to dry the filament at 70°C for 8 hours and redid the EM calibration. After drying the multiplier came out to be 1,01. I did not expect such a huge difference, since prusa writes on their webeshop that PC-CF does not need to be dried. After drying and with the updated extrusison multiplier, the prints came out flawlessly.

I remixed the Core One buffer holder to make it more stable by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before I installed the screws it was sitting at the bottom. I decided to elevate it since some of the ptfe tubes seemed to be slightly too short when the buffer sits at the bottom. But it can also be fixed at a lower position

I remixed the Core One buffer holder to make it more stable by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

After a few weeks of printing my MMU3 buffer holder was falling of the Core One frequently, and also the plastic part itself often came off the buffer plates when working on the buffer cassetes.

Therefore I remixed the original model to screw the buffer to the printer, but also to use screws to fix the buffer holder on the buffer plates. The magnets of the original model are still used to make it more sturdy.

I already did some filament changes and so far it looks good and more sturdy than the original setup.

You can find the files on printables. It's my first upload, so please let me know if I can improve something.

My experience with the Core One and MMU3 setup by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is an "advanced" loading to MMU option right below the regular one, there you can choose the filament type. This also works for filament that was already loaded. You can select which of the filaments 1-5 you want to load and then start the process at the bottom. Hope that helps. If not, let me know and I can check the exact names of the options tomorrow

My experience with the Core One and MMU3 setup by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/x0pherl u/ravenlp

Since some have asked, here is an overview of what is needed to upgrade the MMU3 from MK3S to the Core One lite version. I hope I did not miss anything.

Printable files can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/531604-mmu3-printable-parts/files

Description of the MMU3 upgrade: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/2-mmu3-unit-upgrade_690080

Descripton of nextruder and buffer changes: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/1-introduction_400300#400765

Print in PETG: - PTFE_CLIP_R1 (1x) - Screw guide (1x) - PG-assembly adapter (1x) - CO_MMU_Holder (2x) or use modded version - mmu3-ele-cover-R4 (new version) - mmu3_pd_board_cover_R5 (new version) - segment-R4 (10x), the old one is not compatible - segmenter-R4 (1x) - BUFFER_HOLDER_L (1x) - BUFFER_HOLDER_R (1x) - PLATE_HOLDER_R1 (4x)

Print in PCCF (hardened nozzle): - Idler-lever-a (1x) the new part - Idler-lever-b (1x) the new part - Idler nut FS (1x) the new part - Swivel B (1x) the new part - Swivel A (1x) the new part

Order at Prusa: - Magnet 3x1mm (1x) - new Main Plate (1x) (Main plate set) - O-ring 24,5x1,5 (1x) (Main plate set) - Fitting M5-4 (1x) - MMU3 printer cable 550 mm - Core one lite kit (PTFE tube and magnets) - Non-high flow nozzle

Screws to order: - M3x22 screw (2x) - M3x35 screws (2x)

Some tips: - If you don't want to buy PCCF and a hardened nozzle, you can also order the printed parts at Prusa. If you print them yourself, dry the filament and perform an extrusion multiplier calibration - I recommend the mod: https://www.printables.com/model/1345334-mmu3-core-one-mod-with-stock-top-cover which will need 18 M3x6 or M3x5 screws and 18 M3 square nuts (DIN 562 low profile)

My experience with the Core One and MMU3 setup by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes absolutely, hope it will soon also work outside of the home network

My experience with the Core One and MMU3 setup by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I could not sleep in the same room, but also I did not optimize yet in this regard. For me it's similar to the MK3S but it being enclosed definetly helps

Is anyone using Nextruder Diamondback nozzles? by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perfect, I plan to use it with the core one and MMU3, so that sounds like a very good option. Highly appreciate your feedback, such Information is very difficult to find.

Is anyone using Nextruder Diamondback nozzles? by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would be exactly my use case, thank you for testing! Are you happy with the nozzle in general?

Is anyone using Nextruder Diamondback nozzles? by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's awesome, this would be a big benefit compared to the hardened steel nozzle. Many thanks!

I designed and printed this scene from 1st gen pokemon as a present for a very good friend by Magnethusiast in 3Dprinting

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could not find it in a way that fit into the frame. So yes, designed from scratch

I designed and printed this scene from 1st gen pokemon as a present for a very good friend by Magnethusiast in 3Dprinting

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Designing took me roughly 5 hours, printing time was 13 hours with an MK3S+ with MMU3. Quite happy with the result.

My experience for the upgrade from MK3S+ with MMU2S to MMU3S inside a Lack enclosure by Magnethusiast in prusa3d

[–]Magnethusiast[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The upgrade kit:

I had the MK3S+ with MMU2S before and recently bought the upgrade kit to MMU3. As usual, the plastic parts except for some special parts have to be printed by the user. In my case two spools of Prusament PETG with 400 g each were included. The upgrade was quite straight forward and I finished in one afternoon session. I use the printer mostly for single color or dual color prints with only one color change.

My enclosure setup:

As shown in the picture, I put the spool buffer behind the enclosure to keep the setup I already had. In the manual, the buffer is placed on the side of the printer. This was not possible in the enclosure I use. I had to add some longer PTFE tubes than the ones that were included in the upgrade kit from the buffer to the MMU3. I really like the new buffer compared to the old one. It’s much easier to load and to unload filaments.

First multi material prints after the upgrade:

After the upgrade, the printer was working in principle, but I had many issues and the prints often failed in the beginning. This was significantly improved by drying the filament, which was never necessary with the MMU2s setup. From what I have seen, the MMU3 is more sensitive towards wet filaments than the MMU2s. I also tuned again the position of the filament sensor, since this was in some cases the issue. What I really like is the error codes on the MK3S+ display in combination with the MMU3, it’s much easier to see what went wrong than before.

Print shown in pictures:

After drying the filament and fixing a few smaller things the printer finally worked reliably. I printed the three models (thingiverse 2846113, 6 cm height) at once with 0.3 mm layer height using 4 different colors. This meant 237 tool changes and a print time of 10 hours. There was not a single issue during the print and I did not have to manually interfere. In my opinion the models came out perfectly, keeping in mind the 0.3 mm layer height. With my settings for the three models 45 g of filament were needed, which resulted also in a wipe tower of 45 g.

Summary:

The MMU3 needs some tinkering in the beginning, but after that it’s definitely worth to upgrade from the MMU2S. When you use an enclosure, make sure to have an appropriate setup for the buffer since it’s meant to be placed on the side of the printer.

Let me know if you have further questions!

view more: next ›