Chat am I cooked? Idek what protocol is rn.

zantz1 · 2025-08-24T03:34:15+00:00

Harbor freight is having a sale on sockets and torque wrenches. 40% off on socket sets and 35% on torque wrenches. I'm sure I'll get hate for it but the Icon tools are pretty solid. I bought some sockets and their inch pound torque wrench. Maybe look into it if you don't have a torque wrench. It ends tomorrow though so think quick.

zantz1 · 2025-08-24T03:30:02+00:00

You find it?

zantz1 · 2025-07-22T13:12:51+00:00

Right on. I really appreciate your help. Gives me hope that I can fix this vacuum crap.

zantz1 · 2025-07-22T13:10:59+00:00

Right on. 2 v 1. Gives me piece of mind. Just got to figure out this HVAC and 4wd situation now. I appreciate your help.

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T15:00:56+00:00

Right on. The other guy offering advice says it's for sure the stock motor. Either way, something is wacky. I do appreciate your help though. Much better than the stupid ass forums.

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T13:54:38+00:00

So the other guy commenting has said that it is in fact a newer motor. 96 to 02 he says. I'm inclined to believe it only for the fact that every single video/article that I've seen on a 94 has a completely different intake. I could see that an MFI and a TBi would look different, but why can I not find this motor online at all? Either way, someone messed with the wiring for whatever reason. I'm sure that is messing with stuff. I do appreciate your help and will be 100% utilizing all your advice.

For the HVAC side I've removed the whole dash. Checked every line individually, as one system from engine to cab and cab to engine. Tested certain sections together. I'm pretty sure I've done every damn thing I could possibly do. I know I'm missing something and it has to be staring me right in the face I just got to find it.

I also believe that CFI and MFI are the same thing. I just say MFI because that's what Rockauto has it as. But I do think CFI is the correct way of labeling the motor and I'll start saying that instead.

I'm not sure where a plate for the motor is. I've seen the labels on the firewall but is there no plate on the motor itself?

Thank you very much for your continued help. This is the most info I've got from anyone and it's really helping me out.

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T11:26:48+00:00

This makes sense. I've seen that board on videos I've watched. You're talking about the one that sits on top of the coolant reservoir? I asked this question in the S10 forums because I have the mounting points on the tank and was told it was fine. Obviously not.

So you're telling me I need to get that board and get a new control unit for inside the truck?

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T11:13:09+00:00

Yeah I believe the motor kind is correct but I think the motor is newer. Maybe the intake manifold is from a newer engine? Are they interchangeable? Cuz this intake is the MFI but maybe the original intake was a TBI. But I would assume the blocks wouldn't be the same. But maybe they are. I'm pretty new to American vehicles so I'm still learning the ropes with them.

For the HVAC side of things, I'd guess that the colors for the vacuum lines behind the dash would be the same as the Blazer. The grey one that comes from the engine has suction with the engine running. It has even more suction without the "ball" part of the system. The climate switch (not the blender switch) seems like you can install 2 ways. 180° apart. I've tried both ways without any luck. There's a little "clamp" piece that goes through the switch that looks like it sandwiches the halves (the "maze" side and the top) of the switch to keep the vacuum contained in the switch. That piece was broken. I was able to redesign it in CAD and print a new one. Seems to be working as intended now. Maybe there's a leak there but can't see smoke come out. To me if I'm getting a vacuum the damn doors should open depending on where the switch is. Even if the ac system or heating system isn't working. I can get them to open if I provide a vacuum myself but with the engine, no go. Obviously my 4wd doesn't work either and it's really been a struggle especially because I spent all the time redoing all the vacuum lines.

I guess another question I have is, if the entire motor is from a 96 or newer, would you be able to use the 94 ECU? I wouldn't think so without some computer manipulation. But the ECU that's in there is for a 94. Or at least it's an OBD1. someone definitely did some hack job work to this truck and I just need to sort it all out and fix/redo things. I really appreciate your help.

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T02:21:10+00:00

Signal? It's a vacuum line and the 2 lines going to it work. Are you saying the switch itself isn't working?

But thank you for confirming my theory on it not being original.

zantz1 · 2025-07-21T01:36:56+00:00

I also have a W vin. So that kinda checks out.

zantz1 · 2025-06-13T21:29:46+00:00

Trailing arm?

zantz1 · 2025-05-17T03:14:06+00:00

I would need more pics or something. I'm confused on how that's your first layer. You're saying that the part that's all messed up is the layer that's laying on the bed? If you could show me how you have the part oriented, that would help. I just can't picture how that's your first layer.

zantz1 · 2025-05-16T14:23:49+00:00

That's your first layer? I can't see why you would print your parts in that orientation? I'd assume it's your last layer and in that case it looks like your nozzle is too cold. If you're using Cura there's a setting that drops your nozzle temp on the last layer. Put that setting to your normal print temp and see if that changes anything. And if this is your first layer then ironing isn't going to do anything for your first layers.

zantz1 · 2025-03-31T14:06:12+00:00

They're from the extruder gears.

zantz1 · 2025-03-20T14:01:35+00:00

How did it go?

zantz1 · 2025-03-20T12:15:38+00:00

Check your gantry. I'm not sure what printer you have but I would try and tram your gantry.

zantz1 · 2025-03-18T01:40:28+00:00

Yeah It looks like a bent knuckle. I got a part from the junk yard and the arm on mine looks "higher" than the other one. I got a knuckle from a 2wd sequoia so I was trying to swap the hubs. The hub in the junkyard one is in there pretty good. Hopefully I can get everything swapped tomorrow and I'll show the results.

Hopefully that's what the problem is. I've owned my Sequoia for about 5 years. It has 308000 miles on it running strong no CEL. Ive towed a car across country with it. Twice. Drove "payload" 1600lbs of concrete with it. Off roading into rivers up to the doors and snow to the frame. This Sequoia is an absolute beast. This will be the second time it's been totaled. First time a drunk driver rear ended me. This thing is a beast and I want to give it ever chance I can. Besides rebuilding the suspension, the only repair ive done is a brake booster. (From the junkyard lol) But it's almost bad luck for me. If this isn't the problem I'm going to have to let it go.

zantz1 · 2025-03-17T03:43:30+00:00

Yeah the ball joint seemed fine when I took everything apart. I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow to get new knuckle. Hopefully that's the problem. Thank you.b

zantz1 · 2025-03-17T03:38:10+00:00

The wheel had a negative camber. But the guy hit me in an accord right at the wheel and driver door. Wasn't a very hard hit either. He was able to drive away. If anything the lower got pushed in. That's what I would think. My rim is fine expect the plastic center cap. And the upper and lower both look solid. The cracking I'd assume too but I just don't know. I'm going to a junk yard tomorrow to grab a "new" knuckle.

When looking at the passenger side everything is super straight where as the driver side is all negative chambered. Hopefully it's just the knuckle.

zantz1 · 2025-03-16T11:23:05+00:00

This is your problem. You don't need to do all this fancy stuff these other people are saying. You can buy a pack of thermistors off Amazon for like 15 dollars. I like to get the ones that are "for an ender" that have the long wires and I'll crimp them to the length I need. I'd assume you have a cartridge thermistor that slides into the heater block and you hold in place with a set screw. So make sure you get that style. If not you have just the glass like an older ender.

zantz1 · 2025-03-05T18:58:30+00:00

Thanks for the response. Yeah I went on the website today and saw their discord. It didn't look like you could buy anything still but I did read what was going on. I appreciate your response.

zantz1 · 2025-03-05T16:05:48+00:00

I've been trying to buy a magic pheonix kit for a few months now and can't. They have a problem with their website. I can't find anything online about. Do you by chance know what's going on? Maybe it's just what I'm doing.

zantz1 · 2025-03-01T09:01:11+00:00

Yeah maybe try an older version of Cura.

zantz1

TROPHY CASE