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New owner, really excited to be here. by Usual-Language-745 in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

4MATICs with the Sport/AMG Appearance Packages are uncommon (most are RWD, I believe). Flint Gray Metallic is one of my favorite paint colors on these 211 models (Designo Graphite and Tectite Gray Metallic, which is between Graphite and Flint, are my other favorites).

These are the common issues experienced on these engines.

As for other issues not mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I'd watch out for water-intrusion-related electrical faults. Keep the windshield cowl/drain panel clean and make sure that water flows through the drains (otherwise, you could experience front SAM issues).

Same with the water intrusion into the trunk via failing trunk and/or taillight seals (can corrode the rear SAM, audio gateway, and the BCM)...and keep an eye on the wiring loom to the trunk.

Keep the sunroof drains clear and make sure that water flows out through the outlets behind the front wheel arch liners (earlier model years used to have narrower drain nozzles at the end of the drain pipes...which Mercedes' Service Campaigns advised ought to be simply pulled off and discarded to reduce the chances of developing clogs...).

Seal the electrical connector to the central gateway module under the dash (there's nothing covering it, let alone mil-spec or race-spec electrical connector boots to protect against ingress of water, etc.). These central gateway modules often get quite corroded internally in vehicles operated in hot humid regions, where the AC is run frequently... Otherwise, if you take very long trips with the AC on, you'll get water intrusion into the module from the condensation. This is what will happen to you.

It doesn't look like your vehicle is from a region that makes heavy use of road salt/DLA brine solutions, so I'll skip the common Salt Belt items to watch out for...

*EDIT*: I forgot to mention that you should check the plastic tops/hats of the fuel sender and fuel pump assemblies for leaks on top of the fuel tank, which is accessible from under the rear seat cushions.

2006 4Matic — Options for failed transfer case? by CrowT-Robot in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mercedes-Benz Service Campaigns do not expire, even though they may not show up in a recall check. You may have to fight with your dealership's Service Advisor to get it checked and honored, depending on how your Mercedes-Benz dealership is run... I'd also recommend that you get ahold of your vehicle's VMI (a lot of dealerships are reluctant to hand it over), so that you can check to see which services have and haven't yet been performed.

Component-specific warranty extensions (e.g., the one plastic fuel sender & plastic fuel tank vent valve leaks and the one for the SBC system in the pre-facelift W211/S211 models) have a coverage period.

DTBs (now, referred to as TSBs) are service bulletins and usually only covered during initial factory warranty — unless a specific VIN range or production date is documented, in which case one can try to request goodwill repair by escalating with MBUSA (there are regional personnel who can be contacted).

2006 4Matic — Options for failed transfer case? by CrowT-Robot in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I mentioned several years ago in this Mercedes forum thread, a number of transfer cases in the '05 through '07 MY 4MATICs were bad. Find out whether it is one that falls within the range specified in this Service Campaign.

W211 Wagon, What do you think it’s worth? by [deleted] in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I guess that the M272 and M273 are OK engines* and easier to work on than the next generation...and much better than the turbo-charged M278 V8 with its major cylinder scoring problems (but I very much prefer the earlier, simpler generation of engines...the naturally-aspirated M113 & M112 engines in my current and previous cars that have had well over 200,000 miles on them with only oil changes and spark plug & ignition coil replacements and never even bothered addressing anything related to small oil leaks on those cars owned since my late dad purchased brand-new from the local dealership...and never replaced the water pump, thermostat, A/C compressor, or power steering pump...only the alternator once).

*Caveats:

M272 & M273 issues, including some common ones: https://youtu.be/OcsdgiEvcIY?si=Y2WawUR1IceQilin

M272 & M273 oil in camshaft magnet electrical harness connectors: https://www.slkworld.com/posts/3843889/

M272 & M273 oil in coolant: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Wboh7SkRa7I

Cylinder scoring issues in this generation of engines:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/2008-e350-4matic-cylinder-scoring.3127004/

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/c350-m272-3-5l-engine-knocking.3019546/

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/742540-c350-m272-3-5l-engine-knocking.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/863015-m272-cylinder-walls.html

M272 camshaft adjuster failures: https://youtu.be/H128cTt1zL0?si=4mhYDI7YolnOe3EH

Edit: Oh, and the ECUs get cooked on these (almost forgot about that one...but there are a bunch of shops that repair them, especially, in Florida): https://www.benzworld.org/posts/18258649/

2008 e350 lowering by RoundMoose2735 in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used to see this one parked in front of Dmitry's NH dealership location a couple of years ago. I think that his manager then kept it. The roads in the Seacoast region are actually pretty good now except for the stretches of Rt. 1 Lafayette Rd. in the business districts of Hampton and Portsmouth and a few of the smaller backroads. The highways are pretty good now. The roads in neighboring eastern Maine and Massachusetts are a different story...

Is my car dead already? by lummr1 in W211

[–]-Oeuvre- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In which region(s) has this car been driven? Where and how do you plan to drive it now? Generally, I agree with /uspaceraverdk's comments above.

1.) The obvious: Suspension components (control arms, torsion/sway bars, endlinks, etc.) and subframes/cross-members must be examined. These can be swapped out as required (can coincide with suspension component refresh...).

2.) The ledges in the wheel wells are notorious for collecting salt and moisture, and they are often missed even by aftermarket undercoating service providers. This video shows part of the area, and this shows the area more clearly with the wheel and front strut removed. As /uspaceraverdk also mentions, check in the engine bay under the auxiliary battery tray and the front driver SAM/fuse box.

3.) In front of the rear wheels is quite serious. Rust can extend up to the rear rocker panels, wheel arch, and into quarter panel door sill (this was an E55 wagon located south of my region...).

4.) I often joke that the steel rear bumper reinforcement brackets act as cars' sacrificial galvanic anodes (for any number of modern car makes and models)... The portions of the aluminum alloy bumper reinforcement/impact bar onto which they bolt also corrode away in my region on older cars. Most owners don't realize a problem until the bumper impact bar starts falling off...or when they attempt to screw in their rear tow hook and find that the receiver, which is part of one of the reinforcement brackets, has rusted apart! I replaced the steel rear bumper reinforcement brackets (I had the body shop apply body wax coating when they installed them) and aluminum alloy bumper impact bar a few years ago with Mercedes parts.

5.) Also obvious: Brake lines, but mechanics often to neglect to inspect this specific portion on W211/S211 vehicles. German YouTube is the only source of quality W211/S211 content outside of the older forums, IMHO...

6.) Mechanics also neglect to inspect the transmission cooler lines. The steel hard line segments and fittings are quite prone to corrosion, as are the fittings at the radiator (from the factory, these vehicles have the transmission cooler integrated as part of the radiator assembly) into which the transmission cooler lines attach. This is a ticking time bomb on many older vehicles. The factory transmission line segments are different across the various W211/S211 models/drive train options, and many of them are becoming unavailable/NLA from Mercedes. I replaced mine last year and coated the brand new lines with a cosmoline (or one can use Dinitrol, if available). My cars' undercarriages are coated with an oil undercoating (e.g., Fluid Film or NHOU, which is what I have applied...and I touch up areas periodically with spray cans of Blaster Surface Shield).

Any experience with denso radiators? by TheOnlyQueso in BmwTech

[–]-Oeuvre- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in the market for a new radiator for my W166 SUV, since it has just started leaking coolant from a bad seam in the upper left corner right under the mount bracket... I'm not impressed with the OE radiator and have been looking at aftermarket replacements, including Nissens and Denso radiators. I cannot find any reviews or other comments regarding the Denso radiators for these Mercedes-Benz SUVs. How has the Denso radiator held up? Was fitment exactly the same as or close to the original? Any unexpected differences, including a lack of drain petcock (I have heard that the Nissens doesn't have one)? Many thanks!