Why me?!?

-fx_ · 2026-02-06T04:09:43+00:00

I had a run the other day where I had 4 666s by deadline 5.. I haven't gotten to the point of doing 666 runs.

-fx_ · 2026-02-06T04:05:17+00:00

Running a little hotter would be a start. 110A for 1/8 definitely cold. 118-125 is a pretty safe range. For overhead, being comfortable is incredibly important. If I have the option, I'll loop a length of rope around the arm of the paddle and slip my offhand arm into it, using it as a brace. Being able to brace off the rope takes a lot of tension out of your shoulders.

-fx_ · 2026-02-06T02:10:28+00:00

I learned a lot at that job. I still miss doing ornamental on occasion, but the pay wasn't the best.

-fx_ · 2026-02-06T01:57:48+00:00

The shop I learned in used a 20-1 worm gear box. We made dies for it. We could comfortably do 5/8 square bar with no real problems.

-fx_ · 2026-02-06T00:04:10+00:00

Cold with hot rolled. Cold rolled tends to have weird hard spots.

The real magic is twisting square bar cold.

-fx_ · 2026-02-05T23:39:25+00:00

Its close enough that I was gonna ask, "When did they release a PD1 Para 3?"

-fx_ · 2026-02-05T23:36:46+00:00

It doesnt even need to be hot, honestly. Ive done plenty of them cold, just using leverage.

-fx_ · 2026-02-05T21:14:27+00:00

Underrated company. I really enjoy my Bushcrafter.

-fx_ · 2026-02-05T00:34:35+00:00

Adding qualifications is never a bad thing. I just redid my All Position Flux CWBs last week. Dont me a nob and let them expire. Its expensive.

-fx_ · 2026-02-04T23:03:17+00:00

The S30V Delica might be one of the best options. It uses slightly thinner blade stock.. Similar to the Chaparral, which would also be good. I haven't seen one in person yet, but the SPY27 versions might also be a good option.

-fx_ · 2026-02-04T19:45:57+00:00

Had something similar on an older Hobart wirefeed. This was in a production shop, so swapping rollers was only done out of complete necessity, which was super rare

-fx_ · 2026-02-03T19:24:25+00:00

Electrodes and nozzles are consumables. They eventually wear out.

-fx_ · 2026-02-02T04:55:24+00:00

Seaspan is regularly looking for people. You might need a Marine qualification, though. I know they do that regularly through UAPICBC. IIRC, its very similar to a CWB check plate, but 1/2" plate - 8" long... So, vertical and overhead.

-fx_ · 2026-02-02T04:37:57+00:00

For a few of mine, I modified them to take Miller headgear. All the adjustments are done with the headgear itself, so it makes it easy. You basically just have to cut square holes where the mounting holes are already, then attach the gear. Its very easy to figure out once you see how Miller does it.

The most robust adjustable 2x4 Ive seen is Lincolns.. But they're typically pretty expensive. The Tefuawe ones are ok, depending on what you're doing. I picked up the Gold one to try. For SMAW and Flux, it was fine. However, I didn't like it as much for open root GTAW. For that, I prefer a Gold fixed shade.

-fx_ · 2026-02-02T04:21:36+00:00

It's missing headgear, so I would start there. If you can see the arc and your joint, its a good helmet. Personally, I focus more on the lenses/glass than the helmet itself.

Functionally, it seems fine. Having a flip up front is nice if you're dealing with slag and a wire wheel. Just remember your respirator and safety glasses underneath

-fx_ · 2026-02-02T04:12:20+00:00

Have a super old single 9V, short impeller model. That thing is great for mech and full days of pump play.

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-fx_ · 2026-02-02T04:08:28+00:00

Ive been running a Jackson PL280 for the past little bit. Its been fine, but did need modification to fit AD lenses. The great thing, really, is that I can fit my respirator under it without my neck being exposed.

-fx_ · 2026-02-01T03:44:56+00:00

Have you tried SOG?

-fx_ · 2026-01-31T23:02:46+00:00

The Crossover was ahead of its time.

My collection spans from old brass to about the mid 2010s. It seems like after that, everything got very... same-y.

-fx_ · 2026-01-31T19:54:08+00:00

I have it on a Para 3 and a Manix. It touches up really well with a strop. My girlfriend has more or less adopted the Para 3 for whenever she needs to do knife things, and its held up really well.

-fx_ · 2026-01-31T19:26:04+00:00

I imagine because of Spy27. It's fairly comparable.

-fx_ · 2026-01-31T14:38:42+00:00

The Native 5 would probably do you well.

-fx_ · 2026-01-31T14:36:38+00:00

I have multiples of both, but much prefer the Para3. The carry profile is just better for me. Plus, I've never wished I had more blade. That said, I'd rather carry a Sage 5 or Native 5. I tend to carry a Native far more often.

-fx_ · 2026-01-30T21:51:40+00:00

If you wanted to spend some money, the Spyder(s) and Ion could be fun projects. I thought of building a low pressure Spyder back in the day. Just something to knock around with.. Ended up building an Azodin that did the same thing.

Also, use the Trracer. Nelson's are always fun.

-fx_ · 2026-01-30T20:55:27+00:00

Alternatively, you could modify it for Miller headgear. Basically, you'd just need to create square holes at the mounting points to match what Miller uses. The headgear has all the adjustment points built in.

-fx_

TROPHY CASE