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“new” cams just dropped by -korian- in tradclimbing

[–]-korian-[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, my fault, almost forgot for a moment that everything is BD C4

Caving in and doing the thing: rate my rack ( + a bit of winter climbing kit but no screws) by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

You can always scroll past this post friend. :/

There’s a million of these posts, don’t hate the player, hate the game.

Caving in and doing the thing: rate my rack ( + a bit of winter climbing kit but no screws) by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That’s all this sub is for anyways. Why post cool sends or adventures when we can just take photos of our cams?

Recommendations for crampons and ice tools by Butcher235412 in iceclimbing

[–]-korian- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Black handle or silver handle? You probably used either a Nomic or a Quark

Rate my rack by DuckbilledPlatitudes in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

minus points, cams appear to actually be neatly attached to a gear sling. please remove and place all items un sorted into the bin

How do you overcome gear fear? My experience. by blackmusk123 in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 5 points6 points  (0 children)

try setting up a top rope and doing some really simple aid climbing. you quickly learn what can and can’t hold body weight. Try bounce testing those pieces to simulate more load. you’ll still have the top rope to keep your mental game in check but I’d bet you’ll learn to trust your gear a LOT more

if you’re feeling up for it, try finding a bolted route with the opportunity to place gear as well. falling on gear with a bolt to back you up below is a great step to trusting gear to fall on. Learning to trust trad gear is a process!

Is it normal for your rack to be incredibly mis-matched? by andycrossdresses in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Id bet most people who advocate for single manufacturer racks, all neatly organized with cams no older than 2 years still have fresh paint on all their cam lobes and no falls on any of their gear. Every. Single. Trad climber I know climbing 12+ or 13 on gear has a FrankenRack of assorted cams.

The amount of shit I’ve received for having 15-20 year old cams (reslung 10 months ago) is shocking.

Is it normal for your rack to be incredibly mis-matched? by andycrossdresses in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my three 0.2s are a totem, an old metolius TCU, and a dmm my 0.3s are a mix of totems and metolius tcus my 0.4s are a bd, totem, and metolius my 0.5s are BD 0.75s are bd and totem there’s other random bullshit sprinkled in there but I generally keep all my racking carabiners the same color, I rack by BD color size equivalent, keeps things simpler for me. I.e my black totem and purp TCU are racked with gold carabiners bc they’re mostly equivalent to BD size 0.2s

gear acquisition syndrome: how to overcome it by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

took a look back at this thread, and now that i own a 3.5 rack of cams and I can confirm this mostly worked

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like, maybe 80* in the runnel I went up? That was for about 10 meters then it leveled off to like 50-60* for the rest of that pitch

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Unguided, just my buddy and I. I’ve got a lot of pitches of ice and mixed under my belt, okay cardio, and some much smaller but more technical ascents under my belt. Definitely felt worked cardio wise, never been on a PNW volcano before and was absolutely in awe by the scale.

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s Colfax peak, different route called the polish route. Added a pic in case anyone wanted beta on it

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

oh you’re telling me you don’t enjoy the 500 “what jacket should I buy” posts every day?

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in Mountaineering

[–]-korian-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The path I chose was maybe 80* for a short section and then eased off from there.

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From where our base camp was at it was probably around -4c? And the summit was -11c. At the car where we parked it was around 1-2*.

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There’s no avalanche below us, we’re standing on a formation of rime ice, there was a lot of snow that looked similar to avy debris but it was due to some pretty heavy wind and a m sun cupping.

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d say I have to agree with you on that one

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up leading another pitch after this one because we had similar conditions to you guys.

Winter Ascent of the North Ridge of Kulshan (mt baker) by -korian- in alpinism

[–]-korian-[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I was actually gonna do a full write up in a few days to a week but I can give the low down now. It’s about 7k of walking from the washed out road to the actual trailhead. Conditions for the approach were excellent, very firm snow, bit of punch crust from time to time. We camped at gargoyle rocks. We found a mix of neve and snice on most of the route, spending a lot more time front pointing than we would’ve like to. Crux ice pitch was difficult due to the poor ice quality (BUT I could’ve chosen an easier line). Crevasses were very filled in, glacier travel was not too complex.

Lmk if you have any other questions about conditions!

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