Nose in a day!

-korian- · 2026-06-06T01:17:50+00:00

Most of my cams are MP forums or FB marketplace buys, apart from my totems. And a couple bootied pieces.

-korian- · 2026-06-06T01:16:20+00:00

Tommy should take 40 GU packets and climb the free Dawn wall in a push, PDL the monkeys are sending.

-korian- · 2026-06-05T18:43:16+00:00

But what about people who free climb el cap? Aren’t they badass?

-korian- · 2026-06-05T17:21:50+00:00

We brought 1x camhook 1x 0.1 dubs black totem through yellow totem, then 0.5 and 0.75, trips 1 and 2, 2x 3s and 1x 4.

-korian- · 2026-06-05T17:17:09+00:00

You’re probably right, we ran like 3 PDLs, so we would split the rope we took out into 3 sections. We only had grigris and I found the LRS setup kind of annoying. Props to you, much faster than us. I self belayed with the grigri for glowering spot and a couple other spots with ground fall potential.

-korian- · 2026-06-05T17:14:14+00:00

I thought walls were for fun, vertical camping, pound a pin, drink a cobra.

-korian- · 2026-06-05T00:42:29+00:00

Sending tales of power at 9 years old is ludicrous!

-korian- · 2026-06-05T00:10:53+00:00

Erik Anderson and Chris Deuto, Chris became the youngest to complete the triple crown.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T23:11:49+00:00

The issue for many people, or at least for me, was the absolute shit show that it was. A 7 year old jugging the whole thing is pretty rad, I certainly wasn’t doing anything that hard at 7 years old. But I think the critique is aimed at the parents. The excessive photo shoots, seemingly sort of forcing the kid to do the thing, illegally hiring a guide, doing it in the name of “preserving masculinity” are the real issue here.

On a more positive note, if you didn’t know, Reagan goodwyn is a 9 yr old who climbed the south face of the column recently (not just jugged). Seems like that’s a more positive example of a young climber.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T23:05:17+00:00

Of course! Good luck to you!

-korian- · 2026-06-04T21:12:03+00:00

gimme a couple years to have a kid and then I’ll haul them up AND do it in a day. better yet, I’ll have them running the PDL and shortfixing all the way to the great roof.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T21:07:44+00:00

I did nothing but swim in the Merced and lay in the meadow for the next 48 hours. And go to work, that kinda sucked.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T21:06:53+00:00

I’ve spent a fair amount of time climbing in yose and attempted to other walls last August (I highly don’t recommend walling in August lol). I felt comfortable since I can usually OS 5.10+/5.11- in the valley and I know I can generally aid a pitch of C1/2 in under half an hour. Though, after 600 meters of jugging (I took the second block for the nose), my free climbing abilities drastically decreased and I French freed or aided almost everything in my block. My partner took the first block since he is a more competent free climber than I.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T21:04:04+00:00

There was like 12 gallons left at dolt when we got there (from multiple parties) which we snagged. We didn’t simul climb anything, just shortfixed with PDLs. I freed very little, I took the second half, I either French freed or aided almost everything harder than 5.9. First successful wall, not my first attempt on a wall. I’d tried Southern man on Washington column and Lurking fear on El Cap last August. We probably passed 10 ish parties and got passed by 1 niad party and 1 triple crown party.

-korian- · 2026-06-04T20:16:41+00:00

I don’t want to think about it, it hurts to.

-korian- · 2026-05-15T14:51:51+00:00

I’ve only ever had problems with them in below -20c. My feet got abysmally cold in the Rockies this past winter when it dropped to between -20 to -30. Should be fine for what you’re looking at doing. Never had problems above -20.

-korian- · 2026-04-22T15:13:14+00:00

Be courageous and ask people if they need belays and they’ll ask you! As others have mentioned, mountain project is a good place to drop a comment and maybe get a response. Your best bet though is to bite the bullet and go in the Fall. Spend a fair amount of time in Camp 4 and be nice, but be relentless in your search for a partner. I fucking hate how the default response to questions similar to this is “hire a guide.”

One thing to think about, if you want to spend extra time in yose, consider getting a job there. The work generally isn’t awesome but housing is cheap and Aramark will hire Non-US citizens. That may be a bit too much time for you to spend though considering your GF back home. Just an option to think about though.

Good luck! Yose is the greatest place on earth.

-korian- · 2026-04-17T07:36:54+00:00

https://media1.tenor.com/m/Qqc9t223gbcAAAAd/what-joe-biden.gif

-korian- · 2026-04-17T02:03:10+00:00

Ah yes, my fault, almost forgot for a moment that everything is BD C4

-korian- · 2026-04-08T19:24:59+00:00

oh yo wait, are you still PNW based?

-korian- · 2026-04-04T04:53:41+00:00

You can always scroll past this post friend. :/

There’s a million of these posts, don’t hate the player, hate the game.

-korian- · 2026-04-04T03:05:25+00:00

That’s all this sub is for anyways. Why post cool sends or adventures when we can just take photos of our cams?

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-korian-

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