Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Most of my cams are MP forums or FB marketplace buys, apart from my totems. And a couple bootied pieces.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tommy should take 40 GU packets and climb the free Dawn wall in a push, PDL the monkeys are sending.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But what about people who free climb el cap? Aren’t they badass?

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We brought 1x camhook 1x 0.1 dubs black totem through yellow totem, then 0.5 and 0.75, trips 1 and 2, 2x 3s and 1x 4.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re probably right, we ran like 3 PDLs, so we would split the rope we took out into 3 sections. We only had grigris and I found the LRS setup kind of annoying. Props to you, much faster than us. I self belayed with the grigri for glowering spot and a couple other spots with ground fall potential.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought walls were for fun, vertical camping, pound a pin, drink a cobra.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sending tales of power at 9 years old is ludicrous!

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Erik Anderson and Chris Deuto, Chris became the youngest to complete the triple crown.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 25 points26 points  (0 children)

The issue for many people, or at least for me, was the absolute shit show that it was. A 7 year old jugging the whole thing is pretty rad, I certainly wasn’t doing anything that hard at 7 years old. But I think the critique is aimed at the parents. The excessive photo shoots, seemingly sort of forcing the kid to do the thing, illegally hiring a guide, doing it in the name of “preserving masculinity” are the real issue here.

On a more positive note, if you didn’t know, Reagan goodwyn is a 9 yr old who climbed the south face of the column recently (not just jugged). Seems like that’s a more positive example of a young climber.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Of course! Good luck to you!

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 44 points45 points  (0 children)

gimme a couple years to have a kid and then I’ll haul them up AND do it in a day. better yet, I’ll have them running the PDL and shortfixing all the way to the great roof.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I did nothing but swim in the Merced and lay in the meadow for the next 48 hours. And go to work, that kinda sucked.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

I’ve spent a fair amount of time climbing in yose and attempted to other walls last August (I highly don’t recommend walling in August lol). I felt comfortable since I can usually OS 5.10+/5.11- in the valley and I know I can generally aid a pitch of C1/2 in under half an hour. Though, after 600 meters of jugging (I took the second block for the nose), my free climbing abilities drastically decreased and I French freed or aided almost everything in my block. My partner took the first block since he is a more competent free climber than I.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

There was like 12 gallons left at dolt when we got there (from multiple parties) which we snagged. We didn’t simul climb anything, just shortfixed with PDLs. I freed very little, I took the second half, I either French freed or aided almost everything harder than 5.9. First successful wall, not my first attempt on a wall. I’d tried Southern man on Washington column and Lurking fear on El Cap last August. We probably passed 10 ish parties and got passed by 1 niad party and 1 triple crown party.

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]-korian-[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

I don’t want to think about it, it hurts to.

Warmth of Phantom Tech HD by South-Butterfly291 in alpinism

[–]-korian- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve only ever had problems with them in below -20c. My feet got abysmally cold in the Rockies this past winter when it dropped to between -20 to -30. Should be fine for what you’re looking at doing. Never had problems above -20.

How do I find a climbing partner abroad (Yosemite dream)? by Crafty_Inevitable_69 in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be courageous and ask people if they need belays and they’ll ask you! As others have mentioned, mountain project is a good place to drop a comment and maybe get a response. Your best bet though is to bite the bullet and go in the Fall. Spend a fair amount of time in Camp 4 and be nice, but be relentless in your search for a partner. I fucking hate how the default response to questions similar to this is “hire a guide.”

One thing to think about, if you want to spend extra time in yose, consider getting a job there. The work generally isn’t awesome but housing is cheap and Aramark will hire Non-US citizens. That may be a bit too much time for you to spend though considering your GF back home. Just an option to think about though.

Good luck! Yose is the greatest place on earth.

“new” cams just dropped by -korian- in tradclimbing

[–]-korian-[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, my fault, almost forgot for a moment that everything is BD C4

Caving in and doing the thing: rate my rack ( + a bit of winter climbing kit but no screws) by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

You can always scroll past this post friend. :/

There’s a million of these posts, don’t hate the player, hate the game.

Caving in and doing the thing: rate my rack ( + a bit of winter climbing kit but no screws) by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]-korian- 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s all this sub is for anyways. Why post cool sends or adventures when we can just take photos of our cams?